La scelta migliore, anche se un po costosetta, sono i prodotti fritz!, molto affidabili, di facile utilizzo e un range del wifi che è pazzesco, funziona molto bene e penetra anche i muri più spessi.

Sulla base della tua situazione attuale ADSL e in prospettiva della fibra su VDSL, quindi nel tuo appartamento arriva il classico doppino telefonico, se hai l'esigenza del telefono fisso il mio consiglio è sul fritz 7490, ottimo anche per gestire le chiamate, mentre se non hai bisogno del fisso puoi risparmiare qualcosina e andare sul fratello minore fritz 3490, è identico a differenza che manca la parte telefonica.

Io sono possessore di un 3490 da due anni e sono molto contento, mai un problema. L'unico lato negativo è che può non piacere perchè l'estetica non è molto accattivante, ma ad un certo punto uno se ne frega dato che un router deve far andare bene la rete, non deve essere un bel soprammobile.

Ti lascio la recensione di Galeazzi che è molto esaustiva e non entra troppo nel tecnico ma sull'esperienza d'uso e le varie funzionalità.

If you just need a new router, and assuming you have adsl: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B005626U9W

1. Yep. Bro is connected to the modem/router combo, he gets it too.
   
2. This is the router/modem
   
3. A few times in the past. I can try it again.
   
   Spoke with AT&T tech support, they did tests, found NO problems with my lines....arggggg!
   

Fancy! I never thought about flashing other routers to do this. Hmmm. The first router is not available in my country and the second router charges $39 for delivery :) The flashing site looks pretty easy if I follow steps. I have a D-Link DSL 2750B router with a USB port for NAS. Will try figuring out if there's some useful flashes for that router. It's anyway a piece of garbage since it was a DSL router. If something is possible this will be a free upgrade. I was looking for this adapter because this seems to be the cheapest interface available subject to compatibility. Around $10-$15.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Asus-RT-N66U-Wireless-streaming-Warranty/dp/B007W16SMO/ref=cm_cd_ql_qh_dp_t

this? it appears to not have a modem built in (i am assuming my current TD-W8960N (this is the old router the new one has completely crapped up) has one built in i just need to plug it into the wall (via a filterbox - phone + the one that plugs into the router (RJ45? i havent done networking in ages...)

ah i found this one http://www.amazon.co.uk/Asus-DSL-N66U-Wireless-Modem-Router/dp/B00GORC5WO/ref=sr_1_2?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1411567988&sr=1-2&keywords=asus+N66U is that what i am after?


much confusion is being caused by the fact that most homehubs i have had are all the things rolled into one... yet routers modems switches and wireless access points can be entirely separate devices

Currently unavailable.

How's Tenda? https://www.amazon.in/dp/B00LWVZNM6/

That's crazy overpriced because it's the exact model that Centurylink sells, so it's probably not generally available.

This one should work. Phone jack input, 4 ethernet ports if you need them, and wireless.

If you want to go a little more modular, you can get a standalone DSL modem for about $20. Then any wireless router can hook up to the modem. The upside of that is if you moved and got cable instead of DSL, you'd just get a cable modem and plug it in to your existing router, and so all your wifi passwords etc would be the same.

First, for a modem+router to work you need to receive service from a internet service provider (Cox, At&T, etc.) not from a mobile carrier (T-Mobile, Sprint). Do you already receive receive service from a internet service provider? Someone would be paying them a monthly fee and you would be receiving internet to your home from a cable/coax outlet or a DSL outlet.

Second, Nighthawk equipment is typically targeted to intense internet usage. Nighthawk's maximum capabilities will generally not be realized unless you are paying for the highest internet subscription from your ISP and also using multiple network-taxing PCs for gaming, livestreaming, and downloading. If all you want is faster internet for a few home devices like phones, you can use a cheaper modem and a cheaper router.

The first Nighthawk router you linked is designed for train stations and mansions with all smart appliances, not for typical home use. There's probably no reason for you to fork over $450 for it.

The second Nighthawk router you listed for 60 GHz, which means super fast speed but doesn't work outside of close proximity (like 10 feet). While 60 GHz chips have been developed, basically no commercial devices use them, only prototypes. I imagine 60 GHz will eventually be used for 4K streaming to smart TVs located near the router, but it's just not worth forking over $400.

Third, pick a modem that matches the speed of your subscription with your ISP. Here is a guide for picking a cable modem. Basically, higher DOCSIS version number (3.1 vs 3.0) and higher number of channels (32 vs 16 vs 8) means higher capabilities and more expensive. For typical home internet use, DOCSIS 3.0 cable modem with 8 channels is plenty. This is the type of cable modem I have, and it supports my 100 Mbps internet subscription. A DOCSIS 3.0 cable modem with 8 channels should be about $50. If you really want to make sure you match your internet subscription, you can get a DOCSIS 3.0 cable modem with 16 channels for about $80-$90. You probably don't need the Nighthawk DOCSIS 3.1 cable modem with 32 channels that you listed, which is about $150.

Here is a guide for picking a DSL modem. Basically, a VDSL modem has higher capability than an ADSL modem. An ADSL modem might not be fast enough for your typical home use, but you can get an ADSL modem for about $40-$50. VDSL modems should work for your typical home use. VDSL modems are usually sold a as a combination modem+router, rather than a standalone modem. You can get a VDSL modem+router with a faster router half for about $120+. You can get a VDSl modem+router with a slower router half for about $70.

Fourth, pick a router that suits your home use. You want a router that (1) has fast speed and (2) has enough range for a signal to reach you based on your home size. Here is a brief guide of routers speed. Basically, WiFi "AC" protocol is the standard for home use, and higher numbers after the "AC" (AC 1900 vs AC 1750) means faster speed. AC 1200 routers are typically about $405-$50. AC 1750 routers are typically about $80. AC 1900 routers are typically about $120. You might notice the speed difference between 1200 and 1900. You probably won't notice the speed difference between 1750 and 1900. Anything above 1900 you probably won't be able to tell the difference.

There isn't really a guide on router range. Router manufacturers have collectively agreed not to advertise their signal strengths. So you have to look around the internet for reviews, or do your own tests. You can do you own tests by buying multiple routers, using any of the millions of free Wi-Fi strength apps on the app store, and returning the the routers with lower strength. I tested some routers this way and ended up keeping this router.

I prefer standalone routers. They sometimes perform better than combination modem+routers because designers didn't have to worry about incorporating a modem. Also, I can swap them out without having to buy a new modem. However, you can also buy a combination modem+router to save space. But make sure the modem half matches your internet subscription, and the router half matches your home use. By paying for a decent internet subscription, matching my modem to the internet subscription, and matching my router to my home, I have the best in-home WiFi of any of my friends.

EDIT: Fifth, wait for Black Friday and Cyber Monday electronics deals. Electronics usually go on sale the weekend after Thanksgiving. You might be able to pick up compatible modems and routers for cheaper.

Consigli su quale isp scegliere in zona Novellara, in provincia di Reggio Emilia?

Sto valutando l'offerta tim (fibra misto rame), e di accoppiarci il modem tp-link td-w9970

Non sono sicuro di nessuna delle due scelte

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https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-AC1900-Router-CenturyLink/dp/B0111MRL4S/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1495128145&sr=1-5&keywords=ADSL2%2B%2Bmodem&th=1

if you want the best LAN network. But note, the internet speed will be whatever the ISP gives you.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TD-W8980-Wireless-Non-Cable-Compatible/dp/B00C4OANW0/ref=sr_1_17?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1495128382&sr=1-17&keywords=ADSL2%2B+modem

this'll be ok too, but won't let you use the 802.11ac that your adapter supports, but honestly, it's not a big deal in most cases.

I'll be getting it from Amazon so chances are they won't want to support it.
Whats the difference between TG862G and TG862G-CT ?

https://www.amazon.com/TG862G-CT-Wireless-Gateway-802-11b-GigaPort/dp/B014VVHH90/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1466634843&sr=8-2&keywords=TG862G

Please excuse my ignorance, but would this router be better than POS router

https://www.amazon.com/Technicolor-T817C-Wireless-DOCSIS-Modem/dp/B073851VHM that’s where I read about the 34 mb/s I guess I missed the part where it said download speed but still it’s pretty crap