I've been looking at internet-enabled home devices (think Nest) and Cloud-anything has been a deal breaker for me EVERYTIME! Hell, the first-gen Nest's had the same issue - "Thanks for supporting us at the beginning, now fuck you! ;)"

I've managed to find some really nice hardware for my Thermostat, Sprinkler Controller (though I bought the 12-station controller) as well as hackable Wifi 120v (or 240v) light and switch controllers for $5-8 each!! And I totally forgot about my OpenGarage!

Each of these have open "REST" APIs that accept LAN requests to their local webserver (e.g. 192.168.1.15/api/do/something?key=secret&on=true) so they are wide-open to program against.

Amazon water lily

sincerely, Dad

You may want to look into using a pump

I got one and have loved it. Fill a bucket with ice water and pump it through the chiller. Cools way faster then the sink and since it’s recirculating it used way less water too. Just keep adding more ice to keep it nice and cool.

The most important rule about pumps: there is no such thing as a "xxxx gpm/gph" pump. For every pump, flow is dependent on resistance (or back pressure). So you need to know both in order to select a pump successfully.

So, Back pressure - also called head - think resistance

This has two components:

• static resistance: this comes from the vertical height you have to overcome. This is the 8' you listed.
  
  
• friction or dynamic resistance: this is a tough component because it depends on the length of pipe used, size if pipe, and flow. And since it is flow dependent that makes it dynamic.
  
  In general, I recommend taking the static height and adding at minimum 5' to that for the dynamic head.
  
  Now you have an effective height that your pump will work against.
  
  
  Next you need to determine how much flow is required. I've always been told between you want to move your total system volume between 1-2 times an hour. So my philosophy is to pick 2 times an hour, and if I messed up my resistance part then I have some wiggle room to make sure I end up with at least 1 time an hour.
  
  So given all of that you want to find a pump that can move 400 gph (gallons per hour) at a height of roughly 13'.
  
  
  Now, neither of the pumps you linked to have any kind of flow chart, which is a red flag in my book. Any pump manufacturer worth the purchase should publish this and make it easy to find.
  
  For example, this pump shows for all their models what the flow is at various heights (last picture). Find a pump that shows this information. Unfortunately this brand doesn't have one large enough for you.
  
  They also show the power consumed. This is measured in watts. You want to compare pumps in either watts or Horsepower. 1 horsepower is roughly 750 watts.
  
  The hz your mention has to do with where you live. Generally the US has 60hz and Europe has 50hz power. Some devices may only be designed to work on one or the other.

Lovely that you’re trying to help them! Look up ‘bee house’ on amazon and there’s loads you can buy. Example:

Wild on Wildlife Esschert Design Wood Bee House - Natural https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000AMWT34/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_30MUCbEP18GHF

Woodside Wooden Insect & Bee House Natural Wood Bug Hotel Shelter Garden Nest Box https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01FMGTGKQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_U1MUCbDZHDKW8

And if it’s cold you could maybe pad the outside with an old blanket or material?

It's supposed to look something like a Glyph/Portal stone. Essentially on initiative order 20 they will change color via the remote I have for them. Each color has a different effect. You can find the actual lights here.

I found a neat irrigation controller on amazon that has a web interface. You can hook it up to your local weather stations and it can help figure out how much rain you've received and compensates the irrigation! https://amzn.to/2GWjq2s it's a "rainmachine"

The metal conduit is used with nets on the strawberries to keep the birds out, on the other beds they are used with plastic as a greenhouse in the winter.

These work great and are about $20. Been using them for years.

Yosoo Solar DC 12V Hot Water Circulation Pump Brushless Motor Water Pump 3M Low Noise csf (DC 12V)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DWORE6E

​

​

No personal experience with these, but it looks like they work both in water and out.

Active Aqua Submersible Water Pump, 400 GPH https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003UXBGTI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_V4RHzb4M4GM6F

You could probably look around for something similar to that.

Here's the link:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SG5YVXV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If it stops working, it's probably because the filter underneath is clogged with muck. Just spray it with your hose and set it back in :)

If you find a simple dish/bowl birdbath you like, you can add [this solar-powered aquarium pump](Ankway Solar Water Pump Kit 1.2W 3M/9.8ft Wire Length Solar Power Water Water Pump Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Y575NA6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_veHdBbZXR2SCX) (I’m sure you can find something similar not on amazon) to move water. I have one and really like it. It only operates when the sun is shining on the solar panel, though, but it still is really simple and does the job.

While ceramic blades are excellent for their ability to hold their blade, there's a very real flaw in that the knife itself has very little give. They can break from being dropped, and there's a very real limit to how long they can be, which is roughly the size of a chef's knife.


The kinds of activities you'd use a cleaver of a butcher knife for are not conducive to ceramic materials.

1. I got the container at a place near Nashville called Southeastern Salvage. I couldn't find anything online, but here’s what the barcode sticker says:
   HF1562LAW
   LG antique white planter
   745896421086
   
2. Paver base from HD to level the container.
   
3. The fountain is the Beckett Container Garden Fountain Kit. It's available at Home Depot and Amazon. I added some aquarium filter media which really helps with cloudy water.
   
4. Typical pond liner from HD. This was the smallest size at my store and still way more than I needed.
   
5. Aquarium safe silicone.
   
6. River pebbles from Home Depot for substrate - I know most pond-owners don't recommend this, but my container is small enough to vacuum the gravel when it gets gross. This choice was may too natural/orangey and makes the fish harder to see.
   
7. I happened to have a broken concrete block (like this) which made a a nice base to keep the pump off the bottom and leaning another piece on it gives the fish a hiding spot.
   
8. Floating plants: water lettuce and water hyacinth. Aquatic plants: hornwort, anacharis and golden creeping jenny I pulled out of my flowerbed and tossed in.
   
   The build was pretty simple, when you break it down. It took a while just with life stuff getting the way and I didn't do everything exactly to this order - adding floating plants before I was done sealing the edges, didn't do the final liner trim until very last etc., but this is the gist:
   
   
9. I chose the location and made a pile of paver base wider than the bottom of the container.
   
10. Set the container on the paver base and set a large bubble level across its top. Pushing down, I worked the container back/forth/side/side until it was level all the way around and felt pretty stable.
    
11. Spread out the liner in the container (letting excess hang over sides) and filled with water making sure there were no bubbles or anything. I should have done a better job working out/consolidating the wrinkles/folds at this point. It was pretty hard when it was full, but it turned ok (not great). Once the container was full, I trimmed most of the excess to make it easier to work with, leaving about 12" all around.
    
12. I went ahead and put in some gravel, the concrete block pieces, and fountain at this point, though I should have waited to make it easier to work out wrinkles in the liner. I used the fountain to remove water until the water level was about 6" below the rim to keep the liner pressed against the sides, but allow me to access the edge. Then, I tucked the liner under the rim of the container and trimmed some more excess. Next, I used aquarium safe silicone to adhere the liner under the lip of the container rim so the edge of liner is concealed by the lip of the container. I used clamps in a few places to hold it in place while the silicone set. I had to be careful to keep the outside dry where the liner contacted the silicone to get a good seal. I did another pass later to remove the final bit of excess and add silicone where needed.
    
13. Filled it back up adding pond water conditioner, added plants and fish. I used this new tank bio starter stuff too. I lost 1 goldfish on day 2 so it was probably on its way out anyways but the rest seem healthy after about 2 months.

Coating decorations with a few layers of a polyurethane clear coat spray (like Krylon fusion clear coat) works well for most things. If you really want something to stay separate from the aquarium water, coat it with a clear 2-part epoxy (food safe or for potable water) - Pond Armor makes one specifically for ponds/aquariums: https://www.amzn.com/B00D317Q46

It depends on the height you are trying to lift the water too.

Here is the last pump I bought:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006M6MSHE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I was running it up 6 feet, so I was getting about 600 gallons per hour. There is a good chart on that product page that can clue you in for what you need specifically.

Plus 1 vote for that sort of thing.

I use https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B071NNG376/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_d61WCb15HEWGF

Clear the intake every time you water change or you'll lose flow

another option to consider, https://www.amazon.com/Explorer-Outdoors-Tactical-Shooting-Backpack/dp/B01K22ZY6U
I have a 6.5CR and a 338/378WBM i like having the option to store both of the rifles in the bag at the same time and carry like a backpack.

Any tips for helping bees enjoy my garden? I already see a fair few as I have loads of plants (flowering trees and shrubs, as well as some flowers). I've planted some wildflowers too, which are currently growing. Are bee houses actually worthwhile?

No the pump pictured is not a a 2 in 1, I'm surprised the pond has living fish in it without a filter though! And I'm wondering where the bio-balls came from! The filter has to be outside the pond otherwise you'd just have all the fish waste at the bottom instead of floating around which is pretty much just as bad.
Look up oase or green genie or nexus or rdf filters, the last two being quite a big step up in price. Basically filters are giant buckets with sponges and media and mesh in them to stop fish waste and dirt circulating and reduce ammonia and harmful toxins in the water.
Here is a filter that's quite overkill but it will keep your water perfect, is easy to set up with your current piping and has everything in on small unit, not to mention is amazing value.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B016M6DODK/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1503702744&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=Filter+pond&dpPl=1&dpID=419sZFALDtL&ref=plSrch

No worries at all. Not only do you have your own life, you're on the opposite side of the world from me. I've really enjoyed this discussion - not only am I able to help you out, but you're curious about a subject I love. Basically a win/win for me. :)

I honestly couldn't tell you how many teeth snakes have. I've seen maybe 6? on Puppy.

Those pictures are actually a few months old. She's going to shed tonight or tomorrow, though.

--------------

I bought this pump and filter combination, and this bowl to use as the basin. I also purchased some PVC pipe (3/4" inner diameter I think, 1" outer diameter), a couple sheets of flagstone, some flexible tubing (5/8" inner diameter, 3/4" outer diameter - so it fits inside the PVC pipe), some large diameter black pipe for spacing out the rocks, some gravel, and assorted fittings for the PVC pipe.

I built the frame out of the PVC pipe - you can see it a bit in the picture. It's the white pipe. The frame is composed of a rectangular cube, with T-fittings around the bottom edge. Each of the Ts points inward. I then have a single fitting that takes in all four of the Ts and lets you send a central pipe straight up. The gravel is in the bottom of the bowl, and the frame sits on it.

Next up, I cut the flagstone. Flagstone breaks in straight lines, so all you have to do is get a chisel you don't care about, score the line that you want to cut, and then put the chisel in the score and smack it with a hammer. It will break along that line.

Next I used this 1" diamond core drill bit to cut holes in the center of each piece of flagstone. The holes wound up being slightly too small, so I used these diamond files to make them wide enough to fit the PVC pipe.

Then I put the stones onto the frame, using the black spacer pipes between them.

Now, in order to get the water to actually flow, I drilled a hole through the center pipe in the frame, below where the lowest piece of flagstone sits and fed the flexible tubing through that hole and up to the top of the waterfall. Then I hooked up the pump to the flexible tubing.

Last but not least, I got a lamp dimmer and connected the pump's power cord to it. So, I basically have an on/off switch for it. That's necessary because the waterfall splashes a bit. If I left it on all the time, it would soak the substrate.

All told, the waterfall took months of work and a lot of mistakes. The final product turned out well, though.

------

If you have the freezer space and your snake cooperates, f/t is the way to go. It's the cheapest and safest option.

I feed Puppy live, but that's because she's a very picky eater. She refuses to eat anything unless it's alive. I recently switched her from a species called African Soft Furs (bigger than mice, smaller than rats) to regular old rats, which she didn't like at all. The entire process took around 3 months of hard, moderately traumatizing work.

However, that's a very specific issue that happens with carpet pythons - they get fixated on a single food source and can refuse to switch. I doubt you'll have that sort of problem.

One more thing - usually you want to let your snake digest for 1 - 3 days after you feed them. If they are full and become very bothered, sometimes they will regurgitate their meal. That is definitely bad.

----------

Yeah, ideally the shed will be in one single piece. The shed is actually longer than your snake is however - as they are shedding, the skin stretches to let them get out.

What I'd suggest is looking at the skin initially. You should be able to see the eyecaps on the discarded skin, the tip of the tail, etc. If you do notice stuck shed, there are a few common approaches:

1. Soak them in a tub of reasonably temperatured water for like 15 - 30 minutes, then pull it off by hand.
   
2. Put them into a damp pillowcase for a while. The moisture will loosen the shed, and the pillowcase will give them enough friction to rub it off themselves.
   
   Shedding is hard work, so I usually feed them a large meal, let them rest for a few days, and then hang out with them. However, it's totally cool if you want to hang out with your snake immediately after a shed, as long as your snake isn't acting stressed.

How big are you looking? If you need something small you will want to look for UV sterilizers for fish tanks.

Something like this

https://www.amazon.com/Jebao-Aquarium-Fish-Light-Sterilizer/dp/B00CQRFGT0/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1501898852&sr=8-5&keywords=uv+sterilizer

If you want something bigger then something like this will work

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B1HZ0QU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

OP could get away with something really small like this

https://www.amazon.com/Sun-Microsystems-Submersible-Sterilizer-Clarifier/dp/B00JGCWYYI/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1501898852&sr=8-8&keywords=uv+sterilizer

https://www.ifixit.com/Store/Tools

http://www.amazon.com/Sale-60%25-OFF-Multi-Magnetic-Bit-Screwdriver/dp/B00KT089UE

I know this or this are both safe, but im not sure where you could get it in smaller quantities :-/

I'm about to set up a small Solar pump for my 14gal pond. I don't have first-hand experience but these are the 2 I'm looking into:

Beckett Air Pump


Solarriffic Air Pump

This one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HLCOXFI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A traditional pump would take up less space, if you wanted to go that route. I just like the look of the dosing pump.

We picked them up from Home Depot.

it's this kit here.

This is a 4x4 Flood Table built for a 5x5 tent. Just need to find good medium and I'll be popping seeds :) Glad to be back at it!

Current Plan:
> ##Ebb & Flow:
> Finished Table
> Tray: 4x4 Botanicare Tray
> Fittings
> Pump: Active Aqua Submersible Water Pump, 400 GPH
> Drain Hose: 1/2" Inside Diameter)
)
> Pump Hose: 3/4" Inside Diameter
> Rubber Grommets: 1/2 inch

> Stand: 5x5 Wood Frame (Building this weekend)
> Reservoir: 55 Gal.
> Air Pump: 95 GPH
> Air Diffuser: 4x Air Stones




> ##Medium:
> Germination: Starter Plugs
> 6 inch Net Pot
> Hydroton (but willing to be convinced otherwise!!!)
> 4 x 4 Coco Mat


> ##Environment:
> Tent: 5 x 5
> Light 1: 1100W DE HPS bulb w iPower Ballast & Extend-A-Wing reflector
> Light 2: 600W of QBs
> AC inside, Venting Outside with 450CFM fan

> ##Nutrients:
>
> Flora Trio
> KoolBloom
> Diamond Nectar
> Armor Si
> Floralicious Plus
> Humboldt Snowstorm
> Mammoth P
> * Hydrogaurd

> Strain: Sweet Amnesia (from seed)



ANY AND ALL ADVICE IS APPRECIATED!!!

I know pond armor (https://www.amazon.com/Pond-Armor-SKU-BLACK-QT-R-Shield-1-5-Quart/dp/B00I9X3TTY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1472662954&sr=8-1&keywords=pond+armor) gets used for aquariums and seals out water really well. It does well with sand and rocks in aquariums, but I don't know about claws and such.

This one is probably better PP80006: 800 GPH High Lift Pump, Waterfalls/Ponds/Vertical Hydroponics/Aquaponics - 6' Cord https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006M6MSHE/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_w9yCwbQRG5NZH

Something like this:. Not a pump, but it will move water.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SG5YVXV/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_i_POvKDbDZZ0MRV

The Topsflo are really nice maybe someday. Now I have a 110VAC SS Chugger that I use for big pumping jobs and whirlpool with my immersion chiller (aka herms coil). For little jobs like recirculating herms/hot water around the coil or recirculating wort through the herms coil I use these little 24VDC pumps.

Like these. In 3 years I dropped one and broke the pump head and one the motor seized up. I'm trying one of these soon.

I mated the to quick disconnects so just plug them onto hose or kettles as I need them. Usually they work great and I use a [panel PWM] (http://www.ebay.com/itm/122513669900) control to manually adjust the speed. I have them hooked to a manual/auto switch so I can use the RasPi to turn them off or on if I want.

Using these lights. Attached carabiners to clip to the basket. Cheap and easy and you can set the different colors with a remote control. Used twice so far. About 4 hours of total run time so far and still bright. Batteries are replaceable. And they are Cheap!

10pcs RGB Underwater LED Lights Submersible Multicolor 100% Waterproof LED Candle Tealight CR2450 Mood Light Battery Powered with IR Remote Control for Vase Bowls Swimming Pool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MP4GMNV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VKaiDbAB9Z0AY

I honestly used aquarium safe epoxy because I had some left over.


I've used

https://www.amazon.ca/Pond-Armor-SKU-CLEAR-QT-R-Non-Toxic-1-5-Quart/dp/B00D317Q46/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1502734651&sr=1-1&keywords=pond+epoxy


I'd recommend

https://www.amazon.ca/CLEAR-GRADE-Epoxy-Resin-System/dp/B01J166GM4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1502734602&sr=8-4&keywords=food+grade+epoxy

Edit: you cant bake with it, but it'll be dishwasher safe.

Hey mate, thanks :). A bath sounds like an excellent place to do this tbh.

Parts list:

• Two small submersible pumps as agitators instead of airpump/stones (too noisy for my set up).
  
• One Larger pump to feed the plants
  
• 5m of food grade tubing
  
• The tub - was from Poundstretcher. It's 110 litre and cost £10.
  
• Smart plug. Love it, water from my phone!
  
• The manifold and plant tubing is leftover from this unit which I quickly decided was inadequate but had already butchered (read: fixed) so I couldn't return it. Any manifold and tubing will do.
  
  I have them all in F at the moment, I will either double up and have another tub for V (probably a much smaller one) or use the Lucas formula or something similar where it is the same nutes throughout the grow.
  
  I have done similar methods perpetually but I had two res's - one F and one V. They weren't auto watering though, I dipped a can in and hand-watered from the reservoirs. That meant I could daily water but only mix nutes every 3-5 days. This is another step.
  
  I really liked my V and F buckets so will probably go with that to be honest.
  
  I have ironed out some 'gotchyas' already, so if you do do this PM me or post if you want any advice mate.

Explorer 52" Outdoors Tactical Gun Shooting Bag with Built In Shooting Mat and Backpack Straps- 52 inch Large Soft Rifle Case Tan, can hold double or 3 rifle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K22ZY6U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_AdOIybV1JD43H

I have a aquaponics set up running in a similar fashion using capacitors built into small panels like these, when the sun hits my panels a small water pump lifts into the filter tank and the airpump powers a bubble stone.


So, to make this simplest, for a 100w LED grow light like this you're going to need at least a 400w solar panel and a bank of capacitors that can keep a high enough current to keep that LED powered, (you might want to liquid cool it to reduce the current needed)

Get a filter with a UV light on amazon, it'll clear the water right up and requires probably the least amount of work. the bulb will need to be changed every year, but they only cost about $20 for 2... you'll also need a pump.

I struggled doing it without a UV light for years... then finally got the aforementioned filter with UV light and it fixed in 2 or 3 days. But as I said, stay on top of the light.

I have this one, it's pretty big...

https://www.amazon.com/Goplus-Pressure-Filter-4000GAL-Light/dp/B016M6DODK/ref=sr_1_2?crid=AX1B1LXYPVUY&keywords=goplus+pressure+bio+filter+4000gal+with+13w+uv+light&qid=1565725957&s=gateway&sprefix=bio+filter+UV+light%2Caps%2C252&sr=8-2

I'm not sure. I think it's a 12v water pump with a 12v solar panel. But I see 12v solar panels at some hardware stores.

But homedepot sell them as a kit:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Solarrific-Solar-Powered-Water-Fountain-Kit-G3017/205703113

Amazon link for 14 dollars:
https://amzn.com/B00Y575NA6

I need to use this motor. It is a [http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HLCOXFI?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00](speciality pump). I don't have a problem using a separate power source for the pump, but I still need fine control.

I just ordered this UV System from Amazon a couple of days ago. It has good reviews and it was only 75 bucks.

I'm not sure on the load of each device. One is a UV light, the other is a water pump. I don't have the manual for the pump, however the UV light is one of these:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Jebao-Water-Clarifier-Light-Steriliser/dp/B00CQRFGT0

This one looks excellent: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LFUVSNC

• SwissGera Ibex BackPack I got one of the original versions of these when I started travelling heavily. It has survived half a million air miles, 40 states and 8 countries of being an IT Gypsy.
  
  
• Small Power Screwdriver / Drill - Used a power inverter in the rental cars to recharge my laptop and charge up the drill between sites.
  
  
• Precision Magnetic Screwdriver Set - Really nice when you need to work on a laptop or get an unfamiliar setup without the right screwdriver on hand.

Breaking bees from going to a large open body of water like the pool is basically impossible unless you can provide a similar large source closer so the best you can do is help them access it in a manner convenient to you. Put some floats in the pool tied to the corner closet to the side the bees are coming from. Some of the those floating pond flowers with fishing line down to some rocks on the ledge will tend to keep them in place.

Are they feral bees or managed? Is there a beekeeper nearby who owns them? If so work with him to get him to provide water directly at the hive. If they are feral there isn't much that can be done.

Watering the grass won't hurt the bees, but then you shouldn't water in mid-day or afternoon anyway since much of the water gets wasted to evaporation. Most watering should be done early in the morning so the water has a chance to soak in and then what is left on the leaves evaporates as the sun rises and doesn't leave them too moist for fungus growth.

I've never heard of using spray on truck bed liner, not sure if that's toxic or not (I would assume it is)...
http://amzn.com/B00I9X3TTY
Try Pond Armor instead maybe?