(Part 2) Best power impact drivers according to redditors

or you could go get a right angle impact driver

if you don't care about being on a lone battery platform you should look at the Skil 12v impact driver. Has great LED ilumination, and costs less than these other two.

https://www.amazon.com/PWRCore-Brushless-Cordless-Lithium-Batteries/dp/B07FKR9Y4T/ref=sr_1_5?crid=322OCO74RBY5E&keywords=skil%2B12v%2Bimpact%2Bdriver&qid=1574627258&sprefix=skil%2B12v%2Caps%2C277&sr=8-5&th=1

See if this will work for you. They have a corded version too.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KYNW7S6?psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

All the major brands sell pretty much the same kits, it really comes down to your favorite color.

Here's the Makita set: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013AQVNS8/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_-I.3Db741NC09

DeWalt, Milwaukee, Bosch all do the same thing at almost identical price points.

Oh, yeah, so this is an easy problem.

I find drywall screws work the best, so go to home depot and pick up a box. You'll also want to get some fender washers because the screw head itself doesn't provide enough contact points to properly anchor the surrounding material. And, of course, you need a drill motor. I prefer this Makita cordless impact driver (you'll need to get a battery if you don't have one.)

Now, mount the CPAP straps in the manner in which the device normally rests on your husband's head. Place one fender washer on each screw you intend to install, and, using considerable force, apply the screw and washer assembly using the drill motor through the CPAP straps and into your husband's head. This may cause some bleeding, so be sure to clean the area thoroughly as you proceed.

With practice and determination, the process should get easier as the days progress, and with the added sleep you and your spouse will get, each successive day will be another blessing.

this goes to 1500ftlbs https://www.amazon.com/Ingersoll-Rand-Cordless-Battery-W7152-K22/dp/B07L1LXQKS/

Start with a basic tool kit: screwdriver set, hex wrenches, pliers, box cutter, level, hammer, ect.

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-94-248-65-Piece-Homeowners-Tool/dp/B000UHMITE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1495687960&sr=8-3&keywords=Tool+kit

Something like this.

Then i definitely recommend socket wrenches.

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWMT73804-Drive-Socket-Piece/dp/B00WLVV2YE/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1495688089&sr=8-9&keywords=socket+wrench

Next I'd recommend an impact driver. There are going to be times where your drill won't cut it.

https://www.amazon.com/BLACK-DECKER-BDCI20C-Lithium-Impact/dp/B00JJ3QY9A/ref=sr_1_4?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1495688152&sr=1-4&keywords=impact+driver

I purchased a circular saw recently and have gotten a good amount of use out of it. If you don't plan on doing any woodwork then pass on this.

https://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-BDECS300C-Circular-Laser/dp/B01LX8KOAD/ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1495688185&sr=1-6&keywords=circular+saw

Probably outside of your price range if you're sticking to $300 but a pressure washer is amazing. I use mine all the time.

Another extra item would be an air compressor. You can use it for tons of stuff such as nail guns.

And then also you'll need all your yard work tools. Loppers, shovels, rakes, trimmers, ect.

Oh man.... All the stuff to maintain your home is so expensive. But I'd start here.

I would recommend a brushless impact with mode speed selector, these are a bit newer and will probably be an upgraded feature over his current one. I have this specific impact and it's great, but there are other similar models in various kit forms that also offer modes.

Makita XDT14R https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M4HGMXV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0YC9AbSSXC743

I would definitely get a brushless hammer drill, not sure it matters too much in which model/feature because I don't think they differ that much once you get into the brushless models.

Lots of kits available depending on his battery situation, so pick through those, depending on current prices some are much better deals than others.

I agree with /u/niceflipflop that a couple of scale pics would be nice, but at a glance I'd definitely say you've got plaster walls. First thing's first, do you own or rent? That's going to make a big difference as to what advice I give as I've both owned and rented places with plaster walls.

If you rent, leave them the hell alone. Hell hath no fury like a rapidly deteriorating plaster wall and being a landlord myself who does all my own drywall/plaster you'll probably get charged a lot of money for those repairs. Stick to tape or 3M command strips and call it a day.

If you own the place, do yourself a favor and invest in a quality hammer drill. I bought a Dewalt because I knew I was going to abuse it, but for someone who is going to use it a few times a year, the model I linked will do fine. Some argue that you don't need a hammer drill to put a hole in masonry and they're wrong. Plus, it doubles as a standard, high power corded drill which is also an indispensable tool.

For interior (read: not masonry backed) walls, I've had good luck with these. They're low weight (~50 pounds or so) but great because you can avoid drilling and causing a mess like you have on your hands now. I never tried it, but I've heard putting a sturdy tape like duct tape can help prevent tear out as well. They also penetrate the slats and studs if you happen to hit one. This type of toggle fastener technically works, but I don't like them for plaster because of the size of hole you need to drill for them which generally causes more problems than it solves (1/2", if I remember). Definitely don't use anything like these as they'll just shred your plaster.

For exterior, structural, masonry walls, you need masonry screws and the 3/16" masonry bit to go with the 1/4" screws. If you have a hardware store near you, chances are they'll have them in packs far less than 100 and many stores sells Tapcons which often come with a bit included.

It seems daunting at first, drilling into a concrete/brick wall (I cut away an entire section to install a door. shudder) but once you get used to it it's just like mounting to any other wall surface. The thing you have to understand is just how thick your plaster is and subsequently how many threads you need to have inserted into the masonry to make it safe. Take this cross section for instance. If we look at the deepest your cabinet back is likely to be (.5") and add 1.5" for the plaster thickness that means the fastener has to penetrate 2" of material before it even hits the wall. The general rule is that for every length of fastener you have outside the functional threaded surface (the masonry wall), you need to have the same length of threads inside i.e. "A" has to equal "A". So, in this example, if you have 2" of material (.5" cabinet back and 1.5" plaster) you'd need ~4" masonry screws to safely hold your cabinet in place. For something as relatively light duty as a coat rack you could probably get away with 3.5" or so, but anything less and you're risking the fastener simply pulling out of the masonry walls, especially if your home is brick as the interior bricks are far softer than the exterior. Also I realize that not everyone is as tool hungry as I am, but an impact driver drives fasteners into masonry far better than a standard drill. You're more likely to strip them using a standard drill and frankly I use my impact more often than I do my drill, but we gutted our entire place so I understand not everyone wants a pile of tools.

This looks like the brushless drill/driver set

https://www.amazon.com/Makita-XT281S-2-Pc-Combo-3-0Ah/dp/B07N9K5LNM/ref=mp_s_a_1_29?keywords=makita+drill+set&qid=1574791609&sr=8-29

They actually do them in both, sorta. They ship teal subcompact tools in the EU, AU overseas markets.

And they recently started shipping a teal version of this saw with a compact drill & impact driver in NA.

https://www.amazon.com/Makita-XT337T-Brushless-3-Pc-Combo/dp/B07LFZ1WKH

A drill plus a right angle adapter

You can also use a much smaller drill, or even better a compact impact driver which is a lot smaller than even the smallest drills

Is this model XDT12M? The number is cut off in your picture.

I have a set of the makita 12V brushless drill and impact. They are a hair over 2lbs with the battery. Makita hasnt been pushing them but they are out there. I would have gone with the m12 stuff but the drill is larger (though more powerful) and I dont care for the battery inside the handle approach.

makita 12V brushless impact

makita 12v brushless drill

they make a hammering version of the drill too.

see if you can get lucky and find this kit.
https://slickdeals.net/f/11370667-makita-drill-impact-driver-recip-saw-w-2-batteries-and-charger-210?src=catpagev2

This is Makita's 18V subcompact.

Makita XDT15ZB 18V LXT Lithium-Ion Sub-Compact Brushless Cordless Impact Driver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LX3JVQL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FdqVCbKFCMQDX

Mine is a 10v Bosch. The small size and light weight make the job even faster. (It's also an awesome power tool.)

https://www.amazon.ca/DEWALT-DCF887M2-Brushless-0-25-Inch-3-Speed/dp/B0183RLWHQ

This is what I got. Didn’t know there was 5ah. I kinda prefer the 2aH for my job. I like the light weight.

Milwaukee 2656-22CT M18 1/4" Hex Impact Driver Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X0C9W3G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9LUQBbQA173DB

Edit
Honestly any of them will work for you if your not going to be using them every day. I use mine every day and even the crap by rigid held up for a few years. My dewalt is going on 5 years and it still works. Just dosnt have the drive power it did when it was new.

Have you tried adapters like this or this? Less to break maybe, since the drive sits partly inside the other socket, especially on the Sunex.

It's got the torque you need, but I'd be worried about the 1/4" square driver. I've used this 1/2" one for the last few years with no issues in terms of power, but the sockets I use frequently get stuck on the driver head from the heat generated from driving all the lags, especially when you introduce playa dust. Not a huge issue, just need to let everything cool down before removing it.

Side note: I use 1/2"x24" lags for my monkey huts, with ~9" sticking out of the playa to put the PVC over. I worried that 3/8" would get bent if the wind picks up, so I save those for bolting down tents (where the lags go all the way into the ground). But I tend to over-engineer things out there, as a preventative measure to avoid failures, so take with a grain of salt.

I use one of these (http://www.amazon.com/Craftsman-9-17562-Nextec-12-volt-Right-Angle/dp/B00436U5GG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416989931&sr=8-1&keywords=craftsman+nextec+impact+driver&pebp=1416989949271) , but only because it was on sale for $25 or so...it charges fast and lasts a long time, but it's not very powerful. I think if you're gonna spend $75 though I would get something else or wait for it to go on sale. I'd be willing to pay $40-50 for it after knowing how well it works. (I didn't know it's msrp was $100..)

I work as a skilled crafts maintenance person for a school district, so I can't carry firearms. Knives, however, I am allowed under the "work tools" exemption to the asinine "no weapons on campus" rules. Kershaw folder in my back pocket, Spyderco in my cargo pocket, Gerber EAB as my money clip, a pouch full of screwdrivers on my right, a Bosch PS40 impact driver in a holster that makes it resemble a gun, and finally, a nice 1lb ball peen dead-blow hammer swinging casually in my hand when I'm at a school in a particularly bad area.