(Part 2) Best power lathe accessories according to redditors
We found 140 Reddit comments discussing the best power lathe accessories. We ranked the 63 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
Unfortunately that lathe lacks the hollow spindle that would secure any morse taper accessories. In order to turn pens you need a mandrel that will fit over the 5/8" plain spindle, something like this: http://www.pennstateind.com/store/PKM-CL.html
In order to use a chuck you'll need a chuck that can fit the same 5/8" shaft. This is usually accomplished by buying a chuck and an insert to match your lathe.
http://m.woodcraft.com/aHR0cDovL3d3dy53b29kY3JhZnQuY29tL1Byb2R1Y3QvODE2MjQ0L29uZXdheS10YWxvbi1pbnNlcnQtNTgtcGxhaW4uYXNweA%3D%3D
Or
http://www.amazon.com/Nova-Insert-STYLE-Shopsmith-Plain/dp/B009OLZEXY
I would try on the 2000 rpm range and see how it goes after you get a live center. They're not that much. I would probably go for this one if I needed another one. https://www.amazon.com/Hurricane-Turning-Tools-Tailstock-Center/dp/B079HMBG2J/ref=mp_s_a_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1543174921&sr=8-13&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=live+center+for+lathe
This is a good video for learning cuts with the skew. You really only need to learn the one cut. Get some pine and practice with that. I don't think it will take you long.
https://youtu.be/KfeLAHQSbqk
Well that's nice and cheap, unfortunately with the shipping it'd still end up $22 USD.
I did see one open-ended one on Amazon, but I wanted to get on with my project ASAP (instead of waiting another week) so ordered the drill-style one. I guess I'll find out tomorrow if the collect chuck will even fully fit in it first.
I wasn't finding a drawbar anyway to fit the chuck, and was going to have to make something up (thread some roundbar to M10-1.5, put a nut of some sort on the other end).
I wonder if I'd be able to cut/part off the tail of the sleeve I got, to 1) remove the tang and 2) allow access to the chuck's drawbar.
You also need the Nova 1x8 threaded insert
You have stepped out on a slope. It is extremely slippery.
If you want to make pens I highly recommend a set of Nova Pen Plus Jaws
Do you plan to use a pen mandrel or turn between centers? I prefer centers myself.
Check out www.penturners.org for loads of info on pen turning.
No direct experience with that one, but I do have a Jet 1221VS and the 1840 looks good, it's from the same new generation of Jet as the 1221VS and I think they put a lot of care and learning from past mistakes in to their most recent offerings. I've been putting my little Jet through its paces - I'm temporarily using it as my main lathe while my new studio is being built and the Powermatic is in my hallway in pieces, and it really (other than the size difference obviously) has done everything I ask of it and feels just as nice as the Powermatic, so I'd feel comfortable taking a chance on an 1840.
Other compelling offerings in that price range are the Laguna 18 /36 and I feel the main considerations on a comparison would involve the extension bed if you plan to get one and park it in the lower position to extend swing to 36" total on the Jet:
https://www.amazon.com/Bed-Extension-Jet-JWL-20EXT-Lathe/dp/B00S6YQKNI
and I couldn't find it quickly for sure, but I imagine something around a similar 36" total swing on the Laguna:
https://www.woodcraft.com/products/laguna-tools-20-extension-for-revo-1836
Laguna's set up for the extension is $200 more but what I really like about it is that it comes with a tailstock riser block which allows use of the tailstock for extra support on your large diameter pieces.
I, too, think Cobras with protective jaws are the best overall option. The 10" pipe connector pliers are probably too big (and too expensive) for what OP is describing.
OP should also check out combination pliers, or slip joint pliers.
Perhaps something more specialized like a 4 jaw chuck could work well too, depending on exactly how you're assembling these.
The manual is readily available online.
Looks like a 3/4" 16 TPI spindle. This option should work: https://smile.amazon.com/PSI-Woodworking-CF4-Faceplate-Screwchuck/dp/B079P8RZXC/
But isn't that a face plate already attached to it?
Thanks brother! Have fun trying to find stuff that is 1MT. Slim pickens compared to the 2MT stuff that is out there.
Rockler did have a 1MT pen mandrel though.
And I found a spur center and live center on amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000DD5AG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B2OIEKK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
These are great, depending on the size of the blank: center finder
Works on square or round stock. You draw a line from two angels and where they cross is center.
Edit: this for big round blanks, like logs and stuff.
Hope this helps :-)
Oh, my first thought were these things https://www.amazon.com/Thumb-Chuck-Key-for-uxcell/dp/B00E87LVX6 and I was very confused as to why you would want to make them glow.
The shopbot solution is a piece of PC board and a wire, tool completes the circuit. I know people have rigged up micro switches to an open pin on LinuxCNC and Mach3.
Also, [ ...avoids the milling cutter or the drilling bits broken Easy..] (http://www.amazon.com/Pre-setter-Setter-Router-50%C2%B10-005mm-photoelectric/dp/B00E3A442S/ref=pd_sim_sbs_indust_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1713DTME2JP1HD8B2KWR)
This video shows some improvements using this arbor from McMaster.
I'm sure you could find an super high precision arbor (and chuck for that matter) but you'd quickly outspend the cost of the entire drill.
Here's another arbor on amazon with good reviews.
Yeah, a screw chuck thing would do that. I've never used one, but it looks neat. I always managed to throw away or lose them when I got new chucks.
This is the high end unit
https://www.amazon.com/Sorby-Sovereign-Deluxe-Spiralling-Texturing/dp/B00R3B8H9A
One trick ponies but pretty cheap
https://www.amazon.com/RON-BROWNS-TEXTURIZING-TOOL-TPI/dp/B00J9RU5OQ
This one. https://www.amazon.com/LittleMachineShop-com-2338-Lathe-Chuck-4-Jaw/dp/B00UVVBCMI/ref=sr_1_19?ie=UTF8&qid=1481071581&sr=8-19&keywords=4+jaw+lathe+chuck
It seems there are several backing plates that are showed in often bought together.
Sorry if I'm just being an idiot by not being able to figure this out.
Maybe what you want is a shadow box. It’s a picture frame that is deep for the placement of objects behind the glass. https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=+shadow+box+with+glass&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3A+shadow+box+with+glass
You can also make a frame for your plexiglass. But you need skills.
Or. And I kinda like this idea the best. If you glued 4 knobs on the corners of the plexiglass, with a clear expoxy, or drilled holes for the knobs and used a little bolt, your plexiglass could hang 1 inch from the wall, which is the diameter of the knob. https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Plastic-M8x25mm-Machine-Control/dp/B01DBYWDAQ/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1474127090&sr=8-16&keywords=1%22+plastic+round+knobs
With a piece of picture wire tightly between the 2 top knobs, (if you drill and bolt the top knobs), you could hang that on a nail, and achieve a cool modern look. You would then need to figure out how you want to glue the motherboard onto the plexiglass, and then attach some of your lighting to the back of that. That way, you would not need a frame and you would not need a “structure”. You could paint the 4 edges of the plexiglass, or sand them to get a smooth matte look.
I use this one:
​
https://www.amazon.com/Hurricane-Turning-Tools-Mandrel-Bundle/dp/B079HGJGFY/ref=sr_1_7?crid=1VZVIMNNMINPI&keywords=2mt+mandrel&qid=1558722344&s=gateway&sprefix=2MT%2Caps%2C172&sr=8-7
That works, but not terribly well. The drill will wander slightly inside the wood and start rubbing against the side of the bore. You’ll hear squeaking and then the heat will come.
You’ll end up having to take the bit out of the wood 2 dozen times during the drilling to bring out shavings and cool things down. Cheap would will just let you fly right through it but cocobolo will laugh at you with a squeaky sort of laugh.
So if you were to want to make things a lot easier or make more pipes in the future then you’d need something like this;
Woodworking https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AO01JII/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_t1_O6o5CbCMWBE43
That way you can turn just the right hand end round while using the tail stock live center, then mount this steady rest on that end and then pull the tail stock completely away and drill the spindle by hand with a D bit or preferably a gun drill with compressed air running through it for cooling and chip clearing.
I literally just hold the enlarged shank portion of the gun drill in my hand while feeding it through.
If you already have an air compressor then this is probably $140 worth of tools that will make life a lot easier.
Here is the mobile version of your link