(Part 2) Best power tool replacement parts according to redditors

In Canada, #3 for me is this. I thought you were making a hilarious joke

Craftsman is junk; Husky is decent; Snap On is overpriced.

I re-tooled last summer from my old Williams set. Here's what I wound up with:

-Snap On GF80: 3/8" drive ratchet, got it off ebay for $50. I probably wouldn't buy again, but it is very nice.

-Pittsburgh Pro extendable 1/2" drive and flex-head 1/4" ratchets: Less than $20 each, and they are 90% as good as the Snap On. I would probably buy the 3/8" instead of the Snap On, if I had to do it over again.

-Pittsburgh Pro 1/2" drive impact sockets: These boys have taken some abuse at this point, and other than the etching having been stripped off of a couple (see abuse above), they are still in great shape. $25 for shallow, $32 for deep, Metric or SAE.

-GearWrench 3/8" drive impact sockets: $60 for a pretty complete (8mm-19mm + 21mm, 5/16"-3/4") set, and they are very thin-walled so you don't really need chrome.

-Pittsburgh Pro 3/8" chrome (shallow only): $9/set for 12-point sockets, which is the only reason I got them.

-Pittsburgh Pro 1/4" chrome sockets, shallow and deep: Overpriced, really, but I got the color-coordinated ones which are pretty cool. I might go for a cheaper set if I had to do it again. $8-9/set.

-GearWrench Long Pattern Wrench Set: I got the 22-piece Metric set (6mm-32mm with some skips) for $97; I haven't bothered to get the SAE set, I just have a handful of Pittsburgh SAE wrenches on a wrench ring.

And a big rally box to put it all in. I bet you could get all of it for under $500 if you use coupons at Harbor Freight and shop around for the GearWrench stuff.

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I also got a DeWalt cased set to keep in my trunk:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-1-4-in-x-3-8-in-Drive-Polished-Chrome-Mechanics-Tool-Set-200-Piece-DWMT75000/206510555

But I had to add some wrenches (it has 10mm, 11mm, 13mm and 14mm; wtf?!) to my trunk bag to make it "complete," and even then it has some oddness to it (3/8" drive starts at 14mm, so you'd better not have any really tight 12mm bolts...) so it might not be what you are looking for, but they make a few different sets.

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Other things I considered:

https://www.amazon.com/Williams-50614-2-Inch-Socket-146-Piece/dp/B00HR1Q5F4

$320 for a complete Williams socket set, but the wrenches are about the same...

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This might be the "bang for the buck" winner, simply for the completeness of the socket sets:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LYZ2IJ5

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MDO6L90

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OZJN3PQ

$270 ($180 for 1/2", $88 for 1/4" and 3/8") for a staggeringly complete set (10mm-32mm in 1/2" drive, shallow and deep, with no skips!) and then $42/set for the wrenches, 8mm-22mm.

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https://www.amazon.com/KD-Tools-KDT-80942-239-Piece/dp/B00OL2XFLO

GearWrench socket, wrench and allen key set, $210 for a whole bunch of tools, although they aren't the high-tooth-count ratchets.

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https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/hand-tool-sets/301-pc-mechanics-tool-set-63464.html

Then there's this thing. It is actually quite well reviewed, and surprisingly complete on the socket side, if a little short on wrenches. It's usually on sale for $160.

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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0056E11QW

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BT0AYG0

...and then there's the dream: If I could get away with having this stripped-down of a set... $600 for a very nice, but fairly bare-bones set. No deep-well, no 3/8" drive at all (hello, super-tight 12mm bolts!), and only great big long extensions... if you never need to get into really tight spaces, maybe. The 3/8" drive set is another $260 on top of this, and still doesn't have short extensions or deep-well sockets.

Here are the basics, I will edit if I think of any more essential tools, but you can go an awfully long way with these.

Hand Tools:

• Hand saw- I prefer Japanese style pull saws, meaning they cut on the pull stroke. My go to utility saw is a Vaughn bear saw, which is a robust package, with several types of interchangeable blades. There are countless types of saws, for different uses, but a fine toothed Japanese saw will get you by for most things.
  
  
• Combination square- A sliding ruler square, perfect for marking and layout. you will also want a speed square eventually, so you might as well get one.
  
  
• Tape measure- Start with a basic 25' tape, and get more as needed.
  
  
• Basic chisel set- Most of the entry grade chisels are pretty much the same, this Irwin set is a pretty good buy. to start with a set of 1/4", 1/2", and 1" are all you really need, but you can never have enough chisels.
  
  
• Block plane- A low angle block plane will get you a long ways breaking corners and trimming pieces. Stanley makes a great, affordable, option. As time goes by you will need a jack plane, but a block plane will do for now.
  
  
• Sharpening equipment- A fine diamond stone like this will get you a long way keeping your chisels and plane sharp. You should do research into sharpening methods as you use your tools more, and build a system that fits you.
  
  
• Hammer- A cheap smooth face hammer. Build a wooden mallet as a starter project.
  
  
• Clamps- You always need more clamps. Big clamps. Small clamps. Weird clamps. I like bar clamps. Harbour Freight has good deals on fair clamps, but don't expect too much out of them. To start with get a couple with ~8" throat, and a couple with ~18" throat.
  
  Power Tools:
  
  
• Cordless drill- If you're willing to spend the money for a good, reliable, tool I recommend Makita, but a Ryobi or Rigid will serve you well if you're just working on small projects. Everyone has their favourite cordless tool brand, and, for the most part, it really is just preference. I highly recommend adding an impact driver and circular saw to whichever system you choose.
  
  
• Circular Saw- If you want to work with plywood or larger sticks, you will want a circular saw, which is the most basic power saw. Most of the major tool companies make fine starter saws, Skil is the original, and is quite cheap, but there are plenty of others, browse a store and see what takes your fancy.
  
  
• Jig saw- A jig saw is used for cutting curves, and you will eventually need it if you build enough things. I prefer Bosch but there are cheaper options. See what feels right to you.
  
  
• Miter saw- You don't need this right away, but if you start doing more projects you will want one. I recommend going right to a sliding compound miter saw, like this Dewalt. You will never need more miter saw than that, and if you get a small one you will eventually end up buying a the real deal.
  
  
• Table saw- Again, you don't need this right away, but eventually you will feel you need the precision and ease that a table saw brings. The Rigid portable table saw is a great saw if you're working in tight quarters and need to pack up, but you'll appreciate the appreciate the stability of a cast iron topped cabinet saw if you have the cash and space for it.
  
  Misc:
  
  
• Drill bits- Get a cheap twist drill set that goes from 1/16" to 1/2" and a basic spade bit set. Later you will want a set of forstners and hole saws.
  
  
• Utility knife
  
  
• Driver bits
  

So normally there is a clothfilter bag on top of a shopvac like this but it lets a lot of fine dust trough. A filter cartridge cost about as much as the vac itself. So I put some car filters in a woodbox, these are as good as the cartridge. Hope that helps

Wtf. Found it on amazon


Delta 400063750001S Cursor Unifence https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010LYIVX2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_f4yIDb5VN861E

Yeah I tend to scour Craigslist and local estate auctions for equipment and stuff I could modify. MPLS has some decent used equip from time to time, as does Duluth, but you have to be patient, and ready to jump when something comes up. There are some other good DYI suggestions people have made here. I have made a Flat lap for thundereggs and agate geodes with a 110V motor, an arbor adapter to convert my motor shaft to a threaded end that accepts angle grander attachments (5/8-11) and bought a 7" Velcro head and silicon carbide sand pads. Works awesome. I got the motor for $20 on craigslist, and everything else cost less than $60. Its basically a 'Richardson's Ranch Thunderegg polisher' clone. Richardsons Ranch uses a 3450 rpm motor, which I have, but I may switch it out to a 1725 rpm as it gets the stones hot quick.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MZKTWG6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/Black-Heavy-Duty-Sanding-Discs/dp/B07CBCCBN9?ref_=ast_bbp_dp

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003ELTZ1W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I cannot vouch for the quality but I would look for something like this.

Unfortunately I think a palm router would be too big and a kress spindle is too expensive. For PCB isolation milling and light duty cutting 300W (or 150W at 24v) should be plenty. With a 24V power supply you should be able to get around 5000-6000 rpm. With an ER-11 collet holder you can go up to 7mm shank tools.

Good luck

If I had to secure the handles better, I'd pick up some 1/8" roll pins like these and secure the handles with them. My local Lowes carries them.

Disk like this

DEWALT DW8062 4-1/2" x .045 x 7/8" Metal Cut-Off Wheel (10pk) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006ERQD2M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.FPRDbVZA7B4V

I use track clamps like these, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004Z55D2G/
They slip into the track saw fence if you are using one.

It is a Senco Joist Hanger nailer. & Senco fasteners. It is essentially a palm nailer with collated paper nail feeder.

Based on my google-fu, I believe this is what you're looking for.

Look on this site:
https://www.ereplacementparts.com/skil-6225-type-f01262250a-electric-drill-parts-c-130_862_867.html
If they don't have them, search the part number on Amazon. Ta da:
https://www.amazon.com/Skil-Replacement-Carbon-Holder-2610993157/dp/B00C1KCWS0

https://www.amazon.com/Delta-RP63139-Plumbers-Box-Parts/dp/B003MACB7A

Handy little kit for Delta stuff. Doesn't save you any money but as long as nothing's empty you can fix all of the generic Delta stuff. Just nice to help keep the stuff organized and stocked. I totally agree that it's hardly worth it considering how cheap Delta faucets are new, but I don't stock or recommend any Delta stuff so having some repair parts is my cheap alternative to putting a new American Standard or Moen in.

Depends on which one, the brand I used had generic designs but were quite sturdy, mind you I went through a lot of needles and noozles due to the O-rings breaking constantly.

https://www.amazon.com.mx/Truper-AERO-35-Aer%C3%B3grafo-Profesional-Met%C3%A1lico/dp/B00UY282K4

But I did manage to practice a lot with it.

Any Harder & streenbeck airbrush is a solid investment and will last forever, specially the chromed versions, but I suggest being extra careful until you get used to it otherwise you will spend a lot on spare parts.

Don't cheap out on the heated bed. Youre running serious power through these and you don't want to burn your house down because of a cheap bed.

Get a genuine MK2 or MK3 PCB heatbed (not from China). Those can be wired for both 12V and 24V.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MK2B-PCB-HeatBed-Heat-Bed-RepRap-3D-Printers-12V-24V-Wiring-Thermistor-/251980529712?hash=item3aab35c030:g:8QAAAOSwt6ZWUydd

3.2A isn't even enough for such a heatbed by itself. I'm surprised your printer is even running with that thing (assuming that the heater for your hotend alone can sometimes pull ~2A depending on the rating).

The power supply you linked seems weak too. I'd shoot for a 350-400W supply to be on the safe side. Operating a power supply close to its limit isn't really desireable for these LED supplies.

http://www.amazon.com/Switching-Power-Supply-Router-S-400-24/dp/B00XTHPYMK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452850033&sr=8-1&keywords=24V+400W

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-Parts-1607233559-Speed-Governor/dp/B00YCNZKHE

the grey wire snaking across the main board connected to the resistor is what I broke

Bosch Parts 2610938414 Adapter Plate https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YCOVMNE?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

If you just want a round hole, a regular drill would be better.

If you want to cut a different shape, the dremel tool you linked will be fine, but you want a carbide cutter like this one: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Dremel-Tungsten-Carbide-Cutter-Square/dp/B0002SMOE0/ref=pd_sim_328_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=58RYW62PYX2BQ5MRQST1

The burrs you linked are meant for engraving or shaping. They will work for making holes, but they will make it more difficult.