Best serial adapters according to redditors

I just set up my Rift in a room upstairs from my PC. 10m cables routed through the attic for 3 cameras and 10+5m for the headset.

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I used the UGREEN USB3 extension cables for 3 cameras and the headset. And CSL HDMI cables. I actually bought about £300 of cables from Amazon just so that I had plenty of options when setting up and then sent back everything I didn't use.

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https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00DYPFUNU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01FQ88CHS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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Couple of problems to look out for...

• Despite using all USB3 extensions and all plugged into USB3 ports only one of the connections reports as USB3 in the Oculus software. Doesn't seem to impact performance over my new 4m x 4m playspace.
  Before the extensions all were reporting as USB3.
  
• Just cause you test all the cables beside your PC doesn't mean they will work when stretched out to your destination. I found about half the cables worked when curled up beside my machine but didn't when actually routed to the upstairs room.
  
• Signal problems seem to be a result of power loss over that distance. The UGREEN cables have an extra micro USB connection at the female end so you can add additional power. I had to use additional power on ONE of my camera cables. No idea why since they are all the same.
  
• The 10+5m HDMI & USB cable for the headset worked fine all the time. Used a UGREEN F-to-F connector to link the HMDI extension cables. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00B2HPAE6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• About half the time when I start Oculus Home it tells me I have poor tracking on one of my cameras (different camera each time). Usually it works anyway even with this reported error. If tracking isn't great then a computer restart fixes it.
  
• In hindsight, spending over £100 on cables seems a bit crazy but I had no other choice since I moved house and my PC is in a room with no space for VR. Admittedly it would probably have been more sensible to move the PC to the VR room and run cables back form monitor/keyboard/mouse to the study.

It does sound like maybe the cp2102 chip is bad. I'd bet the USB ttl adapter connected directly to the esp8266 will work. That's how I've programmed all the esp's I've used. I have a Wemos d1 mini that I'll use for testing code, since it can be sent into flashing mode via commands over USB, making it quicker and easier to fix bugs and then re-flash. I've never had to use external power when flashing, power from the USB has always been enough.

I originally used this adapter, but it stopped working and I bought this one and haven't had any problems with it. It's nice because it can do both 5v and 3.3v.

I've never heard of the RX/TX loopback test before.

This is pretty much what your elooking for https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WQTV59S/

It doesn't hurt to have something like this either, between the two of them it gives you console access to 99% of things, except APC because you need one of their stupid shit cables that dont follow DB9 serial spec or your UPS shuts off
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QUZY4WO/

I'm using this cable:

https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Converter-Adapter-Chipset-Windows/dp/B00QUZY4UG/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1502284000&sr=8-5&keywords=ugreen+usb+serial

Works out-of-the-box with Linux (Leap 42.2). For Windows you might need an additional driver.

No problems so far.

I had this e act issue a fee weeks ago. The db9 USB cable I purchased from eBay had a dodgy (non prolific) chip in it. Read the comments for cables on amazon and you'll find one that others have used for Putty.
This is the one I purchased and it works fine...

UGREEN 20210 USB Serial Cable,... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00QUZY4UG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

> I am trying to install a Vantec UGT-PCE10SR on a system running CentOS 7. I'm not entirely sure what's wrong but it is not working. Does anyone have a procedure to follow to install it?

Do you want to play with this card, or do you want to move ahead to the part where you have a serial interface? In other words, is this (A) an engineering exercise or (B) do you want a working serial interface?

If B, buy a USB to serial adaptor. They're cheap (less money than this device which will not work) and they are supported by Linux.

Example. I'm not promoting the linked product, it's just the first one I saw on Amazon.

Not sure, I just know based on my setup.
I use this HDMI adapter to connect the 2 cables going into processor box when I want to use HDR, and it works. One of those cables came with the Pro, the other PSVR, so the PSVR cable must support 2.0

HDMI Adapter, Ugreen HDMI Female to Female Connector Extender Adapter for Extending your HDMI Devices https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00B2HPAE6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vv7vybH79AZKP

Actually I'm starting to think about a setup that allows me to easily and physically switch cables in a convenient way. Something like having several of these: https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Coupler-Adapter-Extending-Devices/dp/B00B2HPAE6/ref=sr_1_7?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1487799347&sr=1-7&keywords=hdmi+to+hdmi

Same with USB cables for Keboard/Mouse.

It will probably take me 20 seconds to switch setups and I'll do that 2-3 times every day which will not be that huge of a problem. And if needed, I can use remote desktop to do "small things" like checking email and stuff.

I use this inexpensive USB / DB9 adapter, it lets me talk to my Dataprobe iBootBar network enabled power switch just fine. Now, any of my computers can have a DB9 port.

On the Amazon review page for this cable, one user wrote:

"I recently purchased this product as a monitor extension cord to convert to my Mac. It was only after receiving it that I realized that there are more than one type of pen configurations for a monitor serial port."

"My suggestion would be that you make it very clear on this product that this is not the pin configuration that works with most traditional monitors."

Comedy gold, ya just gotta love those Mac users.

It could be the cable. I had the same radio and recall the same issue.

In the end, I went with this cable:

Sabrent USB 2.0 to Serial (9-Pin) DB-9 RS-232 Adapter Cable 6ft Cable [FTDI Chipset] (CB-FTDI) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006AA04K0/

And all was right in the world.

I wasn't aware of that. The good news is, it's rs232 out of the scale, then I tested another cable that the 3pins that are supposed to transpose and extend, does just that, and then from that to a non-knockooff FTDI USB 2.0

I was a little concerned about the FTDI driver but I think the newer kernels have it built in?

I use this one:

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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006AA04K0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I just ordered these two, do you think this will work:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006AA04K0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N8VEG7G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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OK the basic process is explained here:
https://amigalove.com/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=15

Note: I've since learned that if you don't have a serial port on your PC anymore, there is a serial to USB converter plug (which I now use) and it works great. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QUZY4UG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Video explanation:
https://youtu.be/bAl7RPJOIjc

If you have any questions, feel free to ask.

Like others have said, you need a usb to serial converter. My previous work used to buy cheap knock off, no brand converters. Sometimes driver stop working unexpectedly or BSD.

After I personally bought a Ugreen, everything works smooth

https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Converter-Adapter-Chipset-Windows/dp/B00QUZY4WO/

ugreen or startech are good brands.

Thanks for your help :)


I didn't post pictures because it's your average day to day rs232 cable. Nothing different. Only a reference "940-0024D", but I think it's nothing worth mentioning. I don't even know where these cables come from, maybe with an APC UPS or who knows. One thing is sure: They were not bought separately, so yeah, probably some proprietary stuff.


In the meantime, instead of buying another RS232 to RS232 cable I got this: https://www.amazon.es/gp/product/B00QUZY4WO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The adapter you linked doesnt support PCIe, so no.

Something like this might work... https://www.amazon.com/NGFF-PCI-Express-Host-Adapter/dp/B01M0OS5JH/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1512020186&sr=1-6&keywords=m2+pcie+usb

You'd need to install it into a desktop though.

USB to TTL Adapter, USB to Serial Converter for Development Projects - Featuring Genuine FTDI USB UART IC ‘FT232RL’ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075N82CDL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_hwsWBbHGCRXPG

>https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075N82CDL/ref=cm\_sw\_r\_cp\_apa\_hwsWBbHGCRXPG

I found the "google drive guide (official)" yet i still having issues with. Anyway you could update it. I personally think the guide needs a bit of modifications to make it friendly.

The issue that I have is I cannot hit the brightness targets in Windas. I seem to be hitting some sort of limiter.

There is also no way to change vbow in windas, so you have to manually repreposition the yoke.

get an adapter like this
https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Serial-Converter-Development-Projects/dp/B075N82CDL

You will also need HCFR and a sensor and maybe displaycal to auto dload the driver.

I guess some have better drivers than others from what I've read. Here is the one I have: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006AA04K0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_tMBFAb3KXSMGJ