(Part 2) Best tap & die sets according to redditors
We found 61 Reddit comments discussing the best tap & die sets. We ranked the 37 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
It's a tool for threading the inside of a hole. This is the handle: https://smile.amazon.com/Kaufhof-ATW-0053-T-Handle-Wrench-Solid/dp/B003GKJYKI/ref=sr_1_3?
The one above is missing a couple parts.
Irwin/hanson sets are actually made in the USA and at least at one time were the same oem for the snap on sets. though this set is about twice as expensive as the tekton set. and for occasional use the tekton one will probably be just fine.
GearWrench 82805 2 Piece Extension Adapter Set (82803 and 82804) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001M0O1OS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Qcrpyb1DM4BEH
If you really want to cut down on the height, could get yourself a cheap tap & die set and travel the thread further up before you chop it. How come you went for those over an eye plate if you don't mind me asking. Also fancy posting a pic of the final set up once you're done? Most folks tend to store their bikes under the bed, so it's cool to see alternative solutions. I've got a vertical aluminium bar installed next to the sliding door for hanging my bike that I'll be posting once it's finished...
Not asking much at all! The basic reason to have a small bag of tools and not rely on a multitouch is that individual tools are just way more suited for their specific tasks. The multitool is great in a pinch. Even if YOU don't know about tools a stranger may if you're broken down. A simple pair of pliers, wire cutters, flat and Phillips screwdriver, crecent wrench, and small socket set would be the minimum. My bag is way more extensive but that's because I'm a little more confident in my mechanical ability (which is really just average). Here on EDC the point of all the things we carry is to be prepared and I extend that to ever facet of my life including my vehicle. There is actually a VEDC subreddit if you want to read up on it. If not I'd be happy to answer anything else or even give you a rundown of what I keep in my jeep.
Edit: Actually here's a jacked up mobile link of what I'd consider bare minimum. I'd rather put together a bag with Stanley tools but this would do just fine.
Allied Tools 49029 175 Piece Automotive Tool Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BWAP1Q/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_1ho9ub0Y2NDA6
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BWAP1Q/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_1ho9ub0Y2NDA6
Either something like this (pictured in use above) or this.
Pro tip for the future: When installing any bolt, hold it in place against the hole and turn it backwards slowly. At some point you'll feel a little "click"... that's the beginning of the threads on the bolt and the hole lining up properly. Turn it back until you just feel that happen, then turn it forward by hand to start it threading.
You should be able to get at least 2-3 full turns on any bolt by hand/finger. If you've cross-threaded, it'll get very stiff and require a tool within the first couple turns.
If you're often dealing with removing/reinstalling things, a "rethreading kit" or "thread restoration kit" are valuable. I have a set like this, but there are several out there (most of the tool-truck companies have an offering, for example). They work similarly to taps and dies that are used to cut new threads, but they're built to clean up existing threads. Put a couple drops of cutting fluid on the tool, and gently thread it into the hole (or thread the nut you're cleaning up onto the tool). If it gets stiff, start turning it half a turn forward and then a quarter-turn backwards.
Especially on older/higher mileage vehicles, or vehicles that are stored outdoors, I run the thread restorers on pretty much everything I take off/put on. Most of the time it's just cleaning up a little rust on threads, but it'll make things go together like new again.
Oh, and one final tip for when you get this apart and go to remount the rack again: Whenever you're mounting something that has multiple attachment points, line it up as best you can and get ALL of the bolts started. You only need a couple turns to get the part to stay. Once they're all started, then go ahead and tighten them incrementally... maybe 3-5 turns on each bolt and just rotate through them until you get them snug. If you tighten all of them, one at a time, and before you get them all started, it can pull the part out of alignment and make the later bolts harder to line up and start (as you discovered).
Try not to feel bad about it. This is a learning opportunity, and something that should be relatively easy to fix, on parts that don't matter (you don't want to deal with this issue on a head bolt, for example...) You'll get it taken care of, and you'll be a better mechanic at the end of it.
you would need something like this
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-00911A-Premium-Titanium-40-Piece/dp/B0012AQNXA
You could always re-tap the threads. Not sure if this kit has the proper size, but its this kind of tool that you would need
You can try running the right size tap through the hole, to see if it cleans the thread. If that fails you need to either just retap it to the next size up or use a Helicoil kit to repair it.
Retapping to the next largest size would be best, but you'd have to be super careful not to damage the windings (assuming this is the hole directly under the windings)
Gotcha, any others you would recommend?
Thoughts here?
https://www.amazon.com/Craftman-39-pc-Inch-Tap-Die/dp/B0031H1ISW
This is the drill/tap I used to thread some cylinder locks I had.
It is a #6/32 tap. Anything harder than the material you are threading will work. So if the core is bronze or brass (soft), any steel tap will be fine.
Amazon link
Yes, using one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Tap-Creating-Wood-Threads-Inch/dp/B004ST0UP4/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542602696&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Wood+Threading+Tools&dpPl=1&dpID=410LAhU4MML&ref=plSrch#
I'm looking for a quiet, 8cm+, low vibration cordless jigsaw that's least likely to suffer from 'binding'.
Binding is when the blade stops and the tool bounces. Safety to me is paramount, so I want this effect minimized.
Quiet is useful so I don't need to wear ear-pads for <5 min jobs.
Low vibration is good so the line can keep true whilst sawing.
I've got my eye set on three so far:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Makita-DJV180Z-Cordless-Li-ion-Jigsaw/dp/B00IILRQBY - Makita DJV180Z
https://www.amazon.co.uk/DeWalt-Lithium-Ion-Body-Only-Jigsaw/dp/B006WXBD1O - Dewalt DCS331N
https://www.amazon.co.uk/DEWALT-DCS334N-XJ-Cordless-Jigsaw/dp/B07JQ6S5SB/ - Dewalt DCS334N
Which would most fit the bill for me? Any other potential candidates?
Cut threads the rest of the way down? With this sort of thing...
TEKTON 7559 Tap and Die Set, Metric, 39-Piece https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00AHV3DWY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_aCJdBb8TS8C8S
Or, drill holes into a concrete slab where the bolts go, as a big spacer, and mortar it into place? One of these
https://www.rona.ca/en/concrete-patio-slab-p4208025
Use a black iron pipe to bend the bolts vertical, slip it over the bolt to give you the leverage you need. If you are going to cut the threads further down the bolt, so that first. Run a stack of nuts onto the bolt to the level where you want the bend to happen (you don't want the bolt to bend any higher than the level you want the bolt to go, you will have trouble getting the nut below a bend).
But the best would be to have the concrete guy re-set the bolts properly. Stay home to watch him do it.
Sorry for so many edits
If you're just repairing old threads look into a [thread repair kit] (https://www.amazon.com/Craftsman-Metric-Thread-Restorer-Kit-42275/dp/B00DRQ5O0U). Taps and dies will cut threads and remove material, potentially removing more threads than actually fixing them. A thread repair kit has soft edges that reform the threads and won't damage the threads that aren't "just right".