Best tongue-and-groove pliers according to redditors

Channellock is a brand name of pump pliers with slots to allow you to expand them. They are a sort of speed pipe wrench.
pump pliers

My first actual ""real" job was when I worked in an Automotive shop in High School. Welding exhausts was part of the job.

Tips n' tricks I learned:

Exhaust pipe can be a trick to get find a good ground on and hangers aren't always easy to clamp onto. Take an old truck battery cable, strip off the insulation and make a neat braid out of the copper. Now you have a pony tail ground! To use it, just wrap/loop the bare copper braid around the exhaust pipe and clamp your normal welding ground clamp to it.

Always leak check your work! When you're done welding up the pipe, have an assistant hold a rag or old welding glove over the exhaust outlet to bump up the backpressure while you look/listen/feel for leaks.

Most steel exhaust pipe has "aluminizing" which is just a thin coating of aluminum on the steel. It welds a lot nicer if you strip off the aluminizing with a die grinder flap wheel. Also if the pipe that you're joining to is used and has a lot of carbon/oil residue on the inside, try your best to clean that up too before welding. If you try welding to a pipe with a lot of built up carbon on the inside it'll offgas which can cause problems with the bead wanting to "volcano" and give a nasty looking weld. Clean pipe welds nicest and a little prep goes a long way.

Get the lightest and flexiest MIG whip you can because welding exhaust on the vehicle can require some tricky contortion at times. Also if you can get a Bernard gun with the rotatable head, that helps for tight areas.

Most exhaust pipe is only 16 gauge, so .025" wire is all ya need.

Some semi-specialized tools you may want to get:

These if you don't own a pair already. They work a lot easier than the old standby of using Channellocks and penetrating oil to slip off rubber isolaters.

A can of high temp silver spray paint. Putting a quick coat of high temp paint over where you've welded and/or stripped the aluminizing off the pipe is considered a nice touch. Only takes a couple minutes and 50 cents worth of spraypaint and customers don't like seeing rust on an exhaust they just had replaced a few weeks ago.

"Stud grip" Channellocks or Knipex Cobra pliers because you'll be "cherrying up" a lot of really crusty 3/8", 8mm, and 10mm studs with a torch and you need something that can get a good bite on them to turn them out.

An air cut-off wheel to hack off all the old hangers and hardware that you can't salvage and won't be reusing. I use a crappy old IR 3" , but if you can afford an extended reach model This one is the bomb

No need to call a plumber. Go to Amazon and get a couple of braided stainless steel washing machine hoses and a pair of Channel locks.

Get these hoses

They will outlast the washing machine you now have and the next machine too. Use Channelocks to tighten the hoses and you're all set. For less than $40.00 you're all set and a plumber will charge you at least $75.00 to do the exact same thing and this way you get to keep the Channelock pliers for the future.

Here's a pair on Amazon
Just scroll down to the technical details section

I'm not at home so this will have to do and about everything that's used for wood working has a Prop 65 warning on it.

This is the best roll pin starter I've used. If the pin is lined up with the hole, it will press in pretty easily. Then just use any pin punch to set the pin flush or just below the surface. I used to struggle holding a hammer in one hand and the punch and the part with the other. Now it's pliers in one hand, and the part in the other.

Are you unscrewing the knurled part?

That's the part with the texture. It's called knurling.

Use a pipe wrench or channel lock pliers to loosen it enough to unscrew by hand.

take it easy i can only get so erect

you still need the huge pliers wrench though!

https://www.amazon.com/Knipex-86-03-400-16_inch-Pliers-Wrench/dp/B00FBPPKPO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1467237212&sr=8-2&keywords=knipex+pliers+16

No idea about the helmet. As far as tools go

non contact voltage tester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004FXJOQO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_XxzgAb8RCT4Y9

Works great for double checking the utilities are off or isolating a particular circuit if you don't want to leave someone's house entirely without power

4 in 1 screwdriver
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00009V431/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_vzzgAbASETAEA

For screwing and unscrewing things

Reasonable sized channel locks
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004SBCS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_ZAzgAbD9C5JND

For a while I had vice grips instead of these but found with gloves on they were a little too clunky to manipulate. Works great for grabbing and loosening like gas connections to dryers

And this rescue tool dealio
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0057UMN3A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_ZCzgAbQY3EK8Z

Works as your battery cutter, prying tool, gas shutoff and a spanner. I cut one of those little locks that secures piv valves and commercial sprinkler systems with this thing before my partner could make it back with bolt cutters so that alone was worth half the price

https://www.amazon.com/Tools-VISE-GRIP-GrooveLock-Pliers-4935351/dp/B0030XMFJI/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_1?keywords=irwin+industrial+tools+4935351+6-inch+v+jaw+groovelock+pliers&qid=1550899075&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmrnull

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These have amazing strength, take up little space and they are similar to the $75 Knipex they coppied.

Here's a breakdown:


Channellock 460- 4.25" jaw capacity - $30
Irwin Groovelock 16" - 4.50" jaw capacity - $40
Knipex Cobra 400- 3.75" jaw capacity - $60
Channellock 480- 5.50" jaw capacity - $50
Irwin Groovelock 20" - 6.00" jaw capacity - $50
Knipex Cobra 560- 4.75" jaw capacity - $100


The Knipex Cobras have a superior jaw design - they grip better than a pipe wrench and grip round pipe a lot better than the Channellocks, but the Channellocks are very good pliers as well, very durable and like you've noticed, probably the most popular choice. And the Knipex are obviously about exactly double the price and slightly less jaw capacity. The Irwin Groovelocks are another good choice - they function and have a jaw design very similar to the Knipex at a cheaper price. They are made in Taiwan however.

These I actually bought a pair for the exact same reason. This is the 12” model, you could probably get away with a smaller size (I think mine are actually 6”) if you wanted.

This usually works, crush it a little, then turn it. https://www.amazon.com/Channellock-480-2-Inch-Capacity-20-Inch/dp/B00004SBCX

I have one of these, but needed to reprofile and sharpen the jaws do they dig in: https://m.harborfreight.com/universal-3-jaw-adjustable-oil-filter-wrench-63281.html

My final solution was to find a career that doesn't involve oil changes, and since I screw on all my own oil filters, I close my eyes and envision my kampf with the next service if I were to over torque it.

Klein Tools 92906 ProPack 6 Apprentice Tool Set for Trade Professionals (6-Piece) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004EKONLY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Qm5EAbQVA3JFH

That’s a good deal. It has lineman pliers, diagonal cutters, needle nose, wire strippers, and flat/ Phillips screwdrivers.

Screwdriver and Nut Driver 11-in-1 Multi Tool, Cushion Grip Handle, Industrial Strength Bits Klein Tools 32500 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015SBILG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yp5EAbSKE4D2A

This is a good all purpose screwdriver to carry around

Klein Tools NCVT-2 Dual Range Non-Contact Voltage Tester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004FXJOQO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qq5EAbTTZ8GYW

This is a non contact voltage tester and it might just save you some pain/your life

Channellock 440 12-Inch Tongue and Groove Plier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004SBCU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_xr5EAbWNKDP5C

You should probably get 2 pairs of these. It’ll help you twist on couplings and stuff

Stanley 33-725 25-Feet FatMax Tape Measure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002PV66/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Xs5EAbGVWXZDV

A lot of people like these tape measures for their larger claws

Klein Tools 98002BT Bottle Opener https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00093GENU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4u5EAb52FZ742

This will help for when you go home

Channel locks. http://www.amazon.com/Channellock-440-12-Inch-Tongue-Groove/dp/B00004SBCU

Ill believe that when I see it. I'll even raise the price by $7 by using Amazon (USA). Show me where I can find a 3 pack of cobra's for $55.33 or less

$42.98 - $1.38 (checkout coupon) = $41.6

+33% (13.73)

$55.33

https://www.amazon.com/Channellock-GS-3SA-Tongue-Groove-Plier/dp/B01H5HMTGI/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1524621262&sr=8-12&keywords=channellock+set

knipex makes a nice pair it's little teeth can pivot so once they lock on they cannot slip off. though they are not cheap.

Agree with Phishmcz, your muscles will grow. I just started my apprenticeship a month ago and I can already see a difference in my upper body strength.

I am working through a training/apprenticeship program so I started two weeks after getting accepted into the program.

I work in commercial construction so my recommendations are based on the commercial side of things.

Invest in some really good channel locks. I currently have two pairs of these.

https://www.amazon.com/Channellock-440-12-Inch-Tongue-Groove/dp/B00004SBCU

I had originally bought a cheap brand and immediately regretted it. You will also need two pairs of the same size, not just one.

Invest in a good tape measure with a wide tape. This one is really good.

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-FMHT33865S-FATMAX-Magnetic-Tape/dp/B00AGYYQW8/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1518750296&sr=1-3&keywords=fatmax+tape+measure

The wider the tape the less likely it will twist and bend when it's extended.

Carry a pencil and sharpie with you at all times.

Work hard, be on time, watch and learn, and ask questions.

Don't forget to take water and lunch.

I used to hate channel locks until I used a set made by Irwin (the company that makes vise grips).

> Don't want to build one

I get this, because I had exactly the same position a month ago. But I just finished a build last night.

Here's what happened:

• I live in Ca, they are going to ban AR-15's in CA soon, so I got a couple stripped lowers for ~100$ each at the local gun shop, so no FFL mail order issues.
  
  
• On the advice of a friend, I went on gunbroker.com, just to peruse AR-15 parts to get a sense of what is required to build one. Ran into this, and impulse bought it (399$).
  
  
• Got fired up and picked up lower parts kit, buffer tube, CA bullet button, magpul back sight, and magpul stock(~150$) from LGS with the intention of getting a gunsmith to do the build for me.
  
  
• Putted around youtube and looked at build process. I have negative amounts of mechanical aptitude, but felt confident I could do it.
  
  
• Had a couple beers, took all the parts and my ipad with a youtube lower AR build tutorial to my garage, and had a fully built and functional Colt M4 A3 civ in less than 30 min. Good feels. Tools needed: 1/8 hex driver, armorer's wrench, 440 channel locks. I had the channel locks and hex driver, just bought the armor's wrench for $15.
  
  Total cost for my Colt M4 A3'ish AR: 100 + 400 + 150 + 15 = $665.
  
  So I get that you may not feel up for a build, but let me tell you: If I can do it, anybody can do it. With the parts I ordered, it was less than 30 min build time and at no point did I ever feel out of my (not very deep) depth. Plus, it felt great to say, "I made dis." Even the not-so-into-my-gun-hobby wife was impressed.
  
  Also, as other's have said, you can still just buy a complete upper and lower, and still get more bang for the buck. But by picking up a stripped lower, it gives you massive flexibility of the final form of your AR and a massive cost advantage of being able to peruse the best deals on the internet without any need for FFL transfers. If you take your time and look for sells, you could easily save $100-200 from what I paid, or just get even better hardware.

Dead ass serious

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G2J4YQZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_aI3SDb2NQ0CZJ

ABN isn't the manufacturer, they just put their name on it. On that Amazon link, the company that makes the tool when says it's made in China

Depends, I just yesterday bought a set of 3 channel lock tongue and groove pliers on sale for under $50CAD new (https://www.amazon.com/Channellock-GS-3A-Tongue-Groove-Acetate/dp/B01HZHASN4)

And looked online at the equivalent of it for knipex and its 3 times the price (https://www.amazon.ca/Knipex-002006S1-3-Piece-10-Inch-12-Inch/dp/B000X4KNTG/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=knipex+cobra&qid=1570395546&sr=8-3)


I will probably still pick up the knipex ones later because they work great. But the big factor here is price difference

The Klein 11 in 1 is one of the few tools I always try to have on me, even when I don’t expect to need it... I’ve been at several project management meetings where I’ve ended up using it to look at existing infrastructure or system components.

This is the one I meant. Since making this post, I found this photo of someone else’s collection... looks like there’s one or two more out there.

Williams is a great brand. They have both USA and Taiwan made rachet sets. Don't know if it is still true, but the product # start with letters are USA made, and the model # with only numeric is Taiwan. The Taiwan set is fine for your use. For pliers, I recommend Klein or Channellock (both USA made, but CL tends to be cheaper) or if you can wait for sale / want the holy grail of r/tools, Knipex pliers. I own all 3 brands, Knipex cobra pliers, plier wrenches, needlenose; Klein linesman; Channellock wideazz adjustable wrench / diagonal cutters / tongue & groove, and NWS fantastico pliers. Cobra and plier wrenches are uniquely Knipex with no full equal by other brands. The other style pliers, you can buy from any of those brands, whichever offer a better deal. Some other pliers brands are: German Wiha, USA Proto J202GS , German NWS, USA Wilde G258PSP. There are others, but get more expensive fast. Or cheaper like this Tekton set, half are USA made. Or poor man Knipex, German Orbis 3 pliers set for $43

Don't forget about the inside read stick rule and chanlelocks.

Channellock 420 1-1/2-Inch Jaw Capacity 9-1/2-Inch Tongue and Groove Plier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000040OUZ/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_bLWkxbXSF1VE4

Klein Tools 910-6 Fiberglass Inside Reading Folding Rule https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00093E03Q/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_JMWkxb188Z74J

Are you talking about these?

http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWHT70273-Fencing-Pliers/dp/B006H8OGUY

If you are talking about the Groovelock pliers, there are several alternatives, but Irwin has two lines of them:

https://www.amazon.com/Tools-VISE-GRIP-GrooveLock-16-Inch-2078116/dp/B000JNRPOC/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1506213638&sr=1-4-fkmr0&keywords=stanley+groovelock

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0030XMFJI/ref=psdc_553328_t1_B000JNRPOC

I think the better ones are made by NWS.

And Stanley makes a pretty good set:

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-84-647-FatMax-Groove-Pliers/dp/B001H1GQFO/ref=sr_1_13?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1506213658&sr=1-13&keywords=stanley+groove+pliers

Bigger, familiar tools

https://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Industrial-Tools-2078120-GrooveLock/dp/B000JNNV4K

Thats a bummer.

The only other thing I could possibly suggest, if you havent already, would be a non-scratch channellock pliers.

But even with those, it sounds like something's gonna get damaged at this point.

Multi-grip (as we call them in Australia) or Channelock pliers like these, the harder you turn the harder they grip. You’re really going to fuck the finish up on the chrome but it looks like that’s already happened.

I’ve dealt with plenty of these and I’ve never needed anything more than my multi grips.

edit: probably better with V-grip jaws like these, actually.

A good cordless drill should not be skimped on. Cheap versions like ryobi, harbor freight, etc have terrible battery technology, and the things don't make it past a few charge cycles. Buddy of mine bought a ryobi cordless tool set, what a pile of junk. He only did one small shelving install with it and it wouldn't take a full charge.

Things to not skimp on:

• cordless drill. It's hard to beat this Dewalt 20V with two batteries for $99
  
  
• Multi-bit screwdriver.
  
  
• 8" adjustable wrench
  
  
• groove lock pliers
  
  
• Magnetic Stud Finder
  
  
• Hacksaw
  
  All of the above will cost about $150, should be enough for most home repairs, and will last a lifetime (Well, the Drill will last ~10 years or so, no battery powered thing is BIFL).
  
  
  Avoid these brands:
  
  black and decker
  
  Ryobi
  
  Craftsman
  
  
  These brands tend to make quality tools:
  
  Dewalt
  
  Makita
  
  Milwaukee
  
  Bosch
  
  Porter Cable
  
  Hitachi

If you aren't going to get the Knipex, I would suggest the Channelock Grip-locks. You aren't going to go cheaper than the Knipex,
without sacrificing something.
personally I'd rather sacrifice the convienence of the push-button joint, but keep grip and durrability.

(https://www.amazon.com/Channellock-GLS-1-Griplock-containing-Pliers/dp/B0002TKID8/ref=pd_sim_60_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=Y1WA670B2WX77283SZHQ)

Nope. Drive something sharp into the center of the lid. There's a vacuum inside the jar. That's how the button pops up when you open it. The vacuum is why it's so hard to open. The tiniest of holes will break the seal, and the lid will twist right off. It's why banging it on a counter works. Shifts the lid enough to release the pressure. Best on stuff like spaghetti sauce that you're gonna use up at once anyway. Work smarter not harder.

Or go outside, hold the jar in the air, and cry until a wild dad appears. Up to you.

Alternative method, go on Amazon and buy huge Channellock pliers, because you were looking for an excuse anyway.

The Channellocks will also open any nail polish container foolish enough to anger them, and can be used to crush the skulls of your enemies.

> I used a screw driver for the pins on my first one. A punch set isn't needed

like a phillip head screwdriver? geez wouldn't that just open up the pin when you hammer it in? Seems like a terrible method for doing that. If you don't have punch, something like this would be a much better alternative to get those pins in

As far as time and knowledge goes, it takes a considerably less amount to buy a whole rifle comparing to DIY and that's what the OP is alluding to. It's like getting an oil change, most people can probably do it themselves but a lot of ppl choose not to.

Tools would be a great start. Build a toolbox with your standard everyday tools in it. A hammer, phillips head and standard screwdrivers, pliers, needle nose pliers, Channel Locks, a small prybar, A small socket set (I got This One and it has been all I have ever needed!). You can expand to a multi-tool, mallet, crowbar, and similar things later. In my view, every person should have a tool box containing at least those basics. It should be your 18th birthday present if you did not get it before. I like Craftsman, because if I break them I can get new ones, but any brand will do. You can find stuff at flea markets and yard sales for a dollar sometimes or less. And if you find craftsman ones, you can take them into a Sears, even if they are old and rusty, and get brand new ones.

I had to buy a pair of channel locks for this http://www.amazon.com/Channellock-480-2-Inch-Capacity-20-Inch/dp/B00004SBCX/ref=sr_1_22?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1464740086&sr=1-22&keywords=channellock+pliers

This one?
Channellock 440 12-Inch Tongue and Groove Plier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004SBCU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0A0Hzb0VTH9B9

We had an epic clog in the bathroom sink once. The prior owners liked to cram hair down there or something. We ended up having to shut off the water to the bathroom, removed the piping, and manually scraping out all the goop and hair in the pipes. Then put it all back together and water test it. Took about 90 minutes and it has worked well ever since.

If you have to go that route get a pair of disposable gloves, one of those plastic drain snakes (about $2-$4 at HD), and a hook and pick set (saw one at autozone for $1.79). Don't forget some plumber's tape(just got some for $0.52 at walmart).

You can use either a big channel-lock pliers or an actual plumber's wrench (usually more expensive) to take apart the pipes, if you need to buy some measure your pipe sizes ahead of time. You will either need 2 of them, one to counterbalance your wrenching, or some other way to hold the other end in-place while you unscrew stuff.

Good luck!

As an aside: the amazon stuff I linked is waay over priced, but it lets you know what I am talking about, and I'm too lazy to find the best prices for stuff in your area.

I've always used these Channel Locks open them a bit and put in the channel, then turn. also good for opening other clean outs

Channellock wrench or pliers

https://www.amazon.com/Channellock-440-12-Inch-Tongue-Groove/dp/B00004SBCU

16" Channel Locks.


https://www.amazon.com/Channellock-460-4-Inch-Capacity-16-5-Inch/dp/B00004SBCW