Best vise grips & locking pliers according to redditors

That is stupid.
You're going to get fired.
You're taking too long.
You need these!

This is what most of us US armorers have found to be the most reliable way to get a damaged screw out:

https://www.amazon.com/Tools-VISE-GRIP-Transverse-Cutter-1773597/dp/B0052XQYVO

The nibs at the end are fine enough to get around any bit of the screw that is still exposed, and strong enough to get a secure grip that will allow you to turn it.

I'd avoid the personal stuff like gloves and hood. I'm guessing he already has the most basic tools, so my suggestions are the second tier of tools that make the job easier. You can get all of the following for under $100.

• Pair of 11' Vice grip clamps (no swivel pads, they get in the way)(get two)
  
• Welper (I buy cheap brands because they get lost/stolen, buy a better brand if your Bro is more responsible than me)
  
• Fillet weld gauge set (definitely not a need, but he probably doesn't have and they will make him cooler than other welders)(link is to cheap brand, buy a higher quality if you don't plan to lose them)

Thats a squeezy boi, can use a set of slip joint pliers, or buy these and change your life forever.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003D3N7YW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_TV8bAbMKW72PF

Safety wire pliers.

Flat band hose clip, here’s a removal tool but I just use channel lock pliers. Hose Clamp Pliers Auto Repair Tool Swivel Flat Band for Removal and Installation of Ring-Type or Flat-Band Hose Clamps

I use large jaw vise grips, I don't have that problem either.

While you are waiting for the replacement...

https://www.amazon.com/VISE-GRIP-Original-Curved-Locking-702L3/dp/B00004YO5L

Here's a breakdown:


Channellock 460- 4.25" jaw capacity - $30
Irwin Groovelock 16" - 4.50" jaw capacity - $40
Knipex Cobra 400- 3.75" jaw capacity - $60
Channellock 480- 5.50" jaw capacity - $50
Irwin Groovelock 20" - 6.00" jaw capacity - $50
Knipex Cobra 560- 4.75" jaw capacity - $100


The Knipex Cobras have a superior jaw design - they grip better than a pipe wrench and grip round pipe a lot better than the Channellocks, but the Channellocks are very good pliers as well, very durable and like you've noticed, probably the most popular choice. And the Knipex are obviously about exactly double the price and slightly less jaw capacity. The Irwin Groovelocks are another good choice - they function and have a jaw design very similar to the Knipex at a cheaper price. They are made in Taiwan however.

They forgot locking pliers (vice grips), though, which makes it cap at a 4/10 guide.

Hell I recently bought a type of vice grip I'd never seen before and it's moronically useful.

Whale grip locking pliers if you can get them in there.

just get one of these sheet metal visegrips and chuck up the lock tensioning screw in your drill like this. if you are spinning slow it is not too sketchy, I just tried it with a regular pair of vise grips and it worked fine. though I had to use a small pair because the diameter of the tension knob was to big to fit in the chuck on my bigger pairs. though you can fix that by just removing the tension screw and swap it with a short piece of all thread.

I use these. Sheetmetal Locking Pliers:

https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-VISE-GRIP-Original-Locking-23/dp/B0000TFGFU/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_469_tr_t_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=8QZ9Q76KV5CFAJR4N5FY

Look at the picture of the jaws. When I need two hands I clamp the pliers in my padded vice.

Electricians have a tool for this.

Channel locks or you can get a Channel lock specific tool for lock nuts, I have one and love it.

https://www.amazon.com/Channellock-960-2-Inch-Electrical-Locknut/dp/B000E62L9I

My only problem with the Crunch (apart from the fact that you have to open it up to get at the knife, but that's a problem I have with a lot of tools) is its price. $110 is a ton of money when you can get plain vise-grips for under $10, and one of Irwin's own vise-grip MTs (e.g. this one) for a fraction of the price, and have an outside-opening combo blade as a bonus. The Crunch is less clunky, but if you're going to be wearing it on your belt anyway that barely matters.

Have you looked at any of the Channellock sets
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L07E6XO/

or Irwin sets
https://www.amazon.com/Tools-VISE-GRIP-4-Piece-Traditional-2078707/dp/B076C4BQ9C/?th=1

Great base. I would add:

• vice grips - It's not unusual to strip an allen head or round off a bolt taking apart or putting together flat pack furniture. A pair of vice grips will take care of that
  
• Small multimeter with non-contact voltage detection - I keep one one of these in my truck and it feels pretty high quality. Non-contact is a must have as far as I am concerned, especially for someone who isn't super comfortable with electricity. You could always go with a pen style but I don't have any experience with them.
  
• Zip Ties - So many uses
  
• Folding Utility knife - for when you want to cut things but not damage good knives

(KS) SF4311 SF4314 New Tube Piercing RECOVERY PLIERS - TIP ONLY - Replaceable self-sharpening tip https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JHW72QK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CpM1Bb4NFEXBE

Come on gramps, we use amazon now! /s

No really thank you, just bought them now!

Sounds like you may need to buy some sort of vise grip that can clamp around whatever is left to grab. They make lots of styles. Something like this comes to mind


MacWork 3-Pack 12in. Extended Long Reach Locking Vise-Grip Pliers Straight/45 Degree /80 Degree Original Curved Jaws Ideal Tool for Gripping, Clamping, And Twisting, Hard-to-reach Areas,CR-V Head https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F5LDDCJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_g0D2Db8JZR6TG

Get one of these guys and you'll be set. I can't tell you how much this wrench has helped me on my builds. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y3Q5J5D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_uLK7BbK4CCHHP

>i have 3 possible stores in the burbank ca area that might have something if you post the exact OD.. Luky, VF Sales, Apex surplus, small sizes went fast.. the fun part would be the search.. apex might take 4 hours to do a moderate search. and i don't think anybody at any of those stores will know without looking at a picture of what you want.. i know what those are as i used to have some in small sizes.. but i have not seen them in decades in my goodie buckets.. screw clamps and a universal joint socket..

HAve you seen something like this -
http://ph-test-11.slatic.net/p/3/5-pcs-bolt-lock-adjustable-metal-hose-clamp-14-17-mm-intl-5424-83792887-26d79684375a5312806ec6d12b95bf9f-catalog.jpg_600x600q90.jpg

The reason is that I can't even use a racthet to access it because there is so much stuff all around. With this type I think I could use a screwdriver tip in the hole for the wire wing nut type thing.

I think I may have to try this tool but it sucks to spend this much money just for a one time use it feels like -

https://www.amazon.com/Huoqi-Reach-Flexible-Clamp-Pliers/dp/B076V676C4/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1540881417&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=cable+operated+hose+clamp+pliers&psc=1

There’s a tool for that. They’re often stapled to the hose from the factory. The tool holds the clamp open while the hose is pulled off. I actually began to prefer spring clamps once I had the right tool.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C3LYZM7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_EObYDbV000TXG

Your automatic adjuster in the rear drums is likely seized up. Why not just do a rear brake job, replace the rear pads, and lube up the adjuster? The kit should cost about a hundred to do both brakes, and should be well within the capabilities of anyone who knows which end of a screwdriver is the business end.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3FYRwfKNHxw

It's not strictly necessary, but much easier if you have a drum brake tool:

https://www.amazon.com/HAUTMEC-Brake-Spring-Pliers-HT0013-AP/dp/B07CDCLFTF/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=drum+brake+spring+tool&qid=1565356789&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFPU01NNlhWNkFHNkYmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA4OTM4MjZLN045RldJQ041WVEmZW5jcnlwdGVkQWRJZD1BMDczMTMyMTFXRERLSUsyOFNBWFQmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

Should run you about $10

No, they were a set like this http://www.amazon.com/OTC-4795-Safety-Twist-Pliers/dp/B00BVL80LI/

I have absolutely no clue whatsoever how they work though. I can't for the life of me figure out how that thing would make a coil for you.

Ok depends on they type of Barrel. If it is is a standard german barrel with screws protruding I would recommend this tool:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0052XQYVO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1.
It is very good at grabbing the sides of exposed screws.

If the screw is flush with the service you might have luck with these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JCT3W0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
you have to be able to put a lot of pressure on the screw head so make sure it is resting level on the desk.

I like your ingenuity to solve the problem in the moment. In the future I would suggest THESE to save you some trouble.

Just need the right tool.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003D3N7YW/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B003D3N7YW&pd_rd_wg=RfdOc&pd_rd_r=QBKDNMAMCJP14Z1F67G2&pd_rd_w=JYDKV

There's another style that is cable operated which quickly became my favourite. I'll edit if I find a link to one.

Edit: I'm pretty sure these are the exact pair I have: https://www.amazon.ca/Astro-Pneumatic-9409A-Clamp-Pliers/dp/B003D3N7YW/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?keywords=flexible+hose+clamp+pliers&qid=1573349910&sr=8-11

If you are talking about the Groovelock pliers, there are several alternatives, but Irwin has two lines of them:

https://www.amazon.com/Tools-VISE-GRIP-GrooveLock-16-Inch-2078116/dp/B000JNRPOC/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1506213638&sr=1-4-fkmr0&keywords=stanley+groovelock

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0030XMFJI/ref=psdc_553328_t1_B000JNRPOC

I think the better ones are made by NWS.

And Stanley makes a pretty good set:

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-84-647-FatMax-Groove-Pliers/dp/B001H1GQFO/ref=sr_1_13?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1506213658&sr=1-13&keywords=stanley+groove+pliers

Yeah, stretching the sleeve by hand will give you blisters. I use a pair of long nose vise grips with silicone tubing over the jaws to stretch and hold the sleeve in place. Works pretty good and doesn’t damage the sleeve or wire with the rubber tubing on the jaws.

Change the cabin a/c filter (very easy, no tools needed. It is behind the glove box is most vehicles) and the engine air filter. The amount of shit in there will boggle your mind. Save your self a bunch of troble and get a pair of needle nosed vice grips for the rear drums. it makes grabbing and pulling the springs very easy. You can have those cocksuckers done in 20 min per side.

https://www.amazon.com/VISE-GRIP-Original-Locking-Pliers-1602L3/dp/B0000BYD9A

Outer tie rod ends are easy too. The inners might be harder depending on how the steering is set up in the truck. Give it fresh tranny fluid, coolant, oil, & brake fluid if it hasn’t been changed. Bad brake fluid with rain water and shit in it can make your bake lines rust inside if they haven’t started already. That will make your calipers not want to work. Id say maybe change the brake hoses too if you still have it apart. Id recommend getting the injectors cleaned or doing it yourself if you have the tool to do it.

Several people have reported stripping their WP screws on LULU.

The general advice applies: use the largest screwdriver than can possibly work, make sure it's very well-seated in the head before turning, keep firm downward pressure while turning, etc.

If it still ends up damaged, you might need to move on to needle-nose locking pliers (e.g. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000BYD9A). There are also "screw extractor" type tools, but they work by drilling into the screw head, leaving metal shavings around...which would require careful cleaning afterward, but is sometimes the only option left.

r/redneckengineering https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-10-Inch-Curved-Locking-PLK10010/dp/B07CZJD6MT/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?keywords=locking+pliers&qid=1565858222&s=gateway&sr=8-7