(Part 2) Best wallpaper & wallpapering supplies according to redditors

OP you’re gonna need to start selling those feet pics to people ASAP and get you some of this wallpaper. Sending thots and prayers

Tempaper Bronze Gray Marrakesh | Designer Removable Peel and Stick Wallpaper https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MY1ZYH6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_eOwHDb9AKSFT7

Thank you!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07V3NT1ZK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(Pardon the raw link)
Edit: maybe this will help too - "EZ FAUX DECOR Instant Venetian Gold/Santa Cecilia Marble Granite Countertop Film Self Adhesive Vinyl Laminate Counter Top Peel and Stick NOT Contact Paper (36" x 240")"

Hi op, professional here.

We actually have a guide on a sidebar however it is outdated and a new one is in the works.

Will you be having tiled showers or underfloor heating?


To remove the vinyl, usually we just slice it up with a sharp craft knife and peel back in pieces. An excellent tool is this floor scraper - we carry a minimum of 2 in the toolbox. They also fit standard snap off blades making it easier and cheaper than buying their proprietary products. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FK76AM/


Regardless, the normal scope would be to peel back the linoleum, check quality of the ply and ensure it has appropriate joist spacings and deflection (handy calculator here -https://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/deflecto.pl) use a scraper or mechanical grinder and shop vac to sand the floor, mix and apply thinset (never use pre mix adhesive, even if it has thinset in the name it is a marketing tactic only!) to floor or cbu sheets (sheets best), screw off or nail according to specifications from manufacturer, mesh tape and thinset joints and then away you go.

For tile, my preference is porcelain 24x24" or larger.

1/16 spacings.

You may need leveller.


For wet areas, my personal preference for waterproofing is wedi, it is also code in my country to waterproof floors in bathrooms if it's not a concrete subfloor. A foam insulation product can serve this purpose, and replace cement board underlay.

Laticrete systems, mapei or schluter (ditra) are also excellent alternatives.


If you're heating the floor, I strongly recommend using a foam insulation board under the heating elements as a replacement to cbu, this boosts efficiency by some incredible numbers.


After laying elements, you'll want to level off the floor to protect the elements and provide a smooth surface to tile over. We tend to use mapei eco plan leveller here, but again most brands and ranges have self levelling components.

You may also need to prime prior to leveller, primer seals the surface and prevents the substrate sucking moisture out of adhesive before it has time to cure. This is especially important on cement board, and important to do prior to leveller compounds on concrete or cement board, or gypsum based plasters. It is not usually required over foam boards.

Always ensure it is synthetic resin based or acrylic. Polyvinyl adhesive (PVA) based primer reemulsifies when wet, and latex based primer often just seals the surface rather than penetrating in. Some primers require watering down prior to application.


Pay close attention to mixing of your tile adhesive, water ratios and allowing the mixture to slake (allows polymers in the adhesive and cements to react, and absorb moisture) before mixing again are both very important steps. We see a lot of failures due to adhesives being too thick or not allowed to slake.


For laying tiles, trowel all lines directionally. Backbutter all tiles with a larger surface area of 900cm2 (30x30cm, ie 12x12")

This video explains it better than I can - https://youtu.be/Way5bMh-eYg

Use an appropriate sized trowel! With anti lippage systems (clips), often anything under 1/2" (12mm) can be problematic as the base of the clip can hold the tile off the surface preventing full collapse of the trowel line.

Grouting is easy.
Mix according to instructions, use a damp sponge to clean off.


Cutting tile is easy, we use dry Grinders with diamond mesh blades and dust collection systems, and tile snappers (montolit and sigma) for straight runs.

Video I made for some reason here - http://imgur.com/gallery/5JELx5i

Quick rundown on the above found in an album over here - http://imgur.com/gallery/SJdTq3S


If in doubt, the John Bridge forums is a fantastic resource for tilers, by tilers.

That can be found here - https://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/


Most of the tilers in this subreddit are regulars over on the forums as well.

Don't trust YouTube or many (if any) blog sites, they all get it wrong and shoot down anyone who calls them out. No comebacks just means they don't want you back, or don't know who did it!

The one exception on YouTube is Sal diblisi, his channel can be found here - https://www.youtube.com/user/saldibs

Hope this helps!

Maybe granite-pattern contact paper? Something like this? (There are other patterns available; that's just one of many I saw.)

This was the product we used, but the 50sq ft version. This is much more involved than the paint and holds up much better. The top coat was the only tricky part, we didn't get it on quite perfect, but now that it's dry you can't tell unless you are looking at just the right angle.

That is a different product than what OP used. This is the correct one. Seems to have better reviews.

Here is the quick and dirty: Clear the room out as good as you can. Lay down painters plastic. Pick up a product called Dif and a tool called a paper tiger, available at hardware stores near the paint, or at regular old paint stores. Follow the instructions to apply. I use a pump sprayer to apply the dif mix. Use this style scraper but make sure you dull the blade's edge beforehand, or you will nick the crap out of your wall. I like to put a horizontal slice across the wall about chest high, then start pulling from that slice. Try to take the biggest piece off the wall that you can. Make sure you get both the wallpaper and the glue layer. The glue layer looks beige and fuzzy when dry but turns paper-bag brown when wet. When all the paper is off, go over the walls with a damp rag to remove any remaining bits of glue. If you have any questions let me know.

Source: painter

edit: You will need to reapply the dif fairly regularly, so I suggest wetting one wall/area at a time. Also added some info above.

Are you in the right place? This is Home Improvement.

Okay, I'm sorry. If you want a brick wall, this is one way. If you used the right weak adhesive and just painted the wall with sanded, grout color paint instead of grouting, you could pop them off and skim coat.
http://www.amazon.com/Colonial-Collection-Thin-Brick-Boston/dp/B0097CNS10/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418369256&sr=8-1&keywords=brick+veneer&pebp=1418369260637


A photographic wallpaper may get you where you want with just a paint job needed when you leave:
http://www.amazon.com/Wallpaper-Faux-Tuscan-Brick-Looks/dp/B004DF56MU/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1418369256&sr=8-5&keywords=brick+veneer

And, these seem the best overall value and ease of removal, the look is a bit clunky:
http://www.fauxpanels.com/style-brick.php?gclid=CM7_iKn_v8ICFWgF7AodkCUAyQ

I like the styrofoam idea. Find a foam shop and they will help you find the right foam and slice it into a thousand brick-sized pieces. Throw a party and have everyone use their fingernails to weather it or scrape notes. Mount and paint.

Wondering about a deep skim coat and stamped concrete forms ...

Backsplash contact paper was from Walmart shelf liner aisle for $5 per roll and it took one roll to cover the kitchen. The counters came from Amazon $8 per roll and it took 3.5 rolls to cover the counters.
Yancorp 17.9"x78.7" Dark Brown... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HPBN14B?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Mapei's Kerapoxy cleaner and a blade scraper. Personally, I actually prefer the longer handled ones as I find the extra expense is well outweighed by how much more comfortable they are to use (and I've used them a lot..). You don't want a wider blade because it takes more force to take things off with a wider blade.

That'll remove the majority of it, use some of those abrasive pads with the kerapoxy cleaner to get rid of the rest. It'll still take a lot of elbow grease. And I do mean a lot. The longer you leave it the worse it'll get too.

Would recommend ventilating the area and/or using a respirator with vapour filters, and some decent rubber gloves. Kerapoxy cleaner isn't the nicest of stuff. But it's nicer than muriatic acid for sure, and a lot less can go wrong.

The next step up is muriatic acid, but it's really not something I'd ever recommend for a DIYer. Americans on reddit seem to have a fetish for the stuff, but almost no tile place openly sells it locally to me and you have to be known to them to be able to buy it, because so many people don't take the stuff half as seriously as they should. Tl;dr it's super aggressive stuff and I'd rather you try something that won't do as much damage if you fuck up working with it.

Yes. Inside seams. Lay the bag flat and really press it in. It helps if you use a roller. Something like this:

Wadason Seam Roller Wallpaper Roller Flooring Roller Sound Deadening Roller for Wallpaper Quilting Car Sound Deadener Roller Wallpaper Smoother Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RY6N4PP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_EFmZDbRBCYRPZ

Edit: this stuff works well and can theoretically waterproof an all-dyneema pack. But it is always a good idea to use a liner or at least a waterproof stuff sack for clothes and quilt.

Most of the time I've seen this type of thing, it's usually sold as a sheet material.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PPX2ZFX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_aKBsDbJVBPG85

Don't use a sharp pointed object, E6000 is more elasticish and will likely pull off fine. Otherwise get a flat razor scraper. If you don't have one already they are the best thing for removing anything sticky & icky off flat glass. Stickers are no match for one of these things. Follow it up with some denatured/high % rubbing alcohol to remove any of the residues leftover and should be good as the day you made it.


If you glue patterns on they are also super handy for peeling up dried pattern parts.

If you don’t need the doors take them down and put up a wall, then paint. Or if you have to keep the doors for future use take the trim down so it’s a flatter surface and cover the whole wall with wallpaper. You can find some decent looking stuff to make an accent wall on amazon. Check this one out https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N2VLWCB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_usywDbAZWNQ5E

Here you go! White Grey Wood Self Adhesive Paper 17.71 in X 32.8 Ft Removable Wood Peel and Stick Wallpaper Decorative Wall Covering Vintage Wood Panel Interior Film Leave No Trace Surfaces Easy to Clean https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KXML8XX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_d4OEDb4G33036

I had the white stars already, but the gold paper came from amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q7YKV7R

Edit: want to add that I’d recommend that paper for furniture projects! It’s water proof and seems pretty thick/durable.

Have you considered using vynil film instead of paper? Like this? (Well, that specific one looks too big, but there’s some with patterns that are compatible with miniatures.)

I’m not sure if it will work, but I’ve recebtly thought of covering a mini fridge in vynil imitating stainless steel. I’m still waiting for my vynil to arrive, so I don’t know if it will work, but in the past I’ve had success covering all sorts of small objects with car wrap vynil.

Congratulations, that's an amazing result, especially considering that budget. And those counter tops....that must've been an absolute pain. If you're looking for an easy low-budget marble option next time, there are also some other options (some of those actually look fairly realistic if you look at the photos!). But yeah... impressive! Old oak, away with you!

www.amazon.com/dp/B07FZ98C3F

So far as budgeting, I'm definitely going to be on the thrifty side. I'll likely be living here for a few years though, so I can gradually improve the room over time. I'm in North America!

Mostly looking for inspiration/any experience decorating these kinds of spaces (It's the room I'm renting/my bedroom/office as I work remote). I'm not going to have a bed in the room (I'll be sleeping on a Japanese futon, which I'll put in the closet during the day), and I'm keeping the large black cabinet included in the pictures (but removing the bed, and small dresser). Ceilings are sloped towards the window, giving an interesting shape to the room. I'm starting out with quite the blank slate, so any ideas to make the most out of this space would be awesome!

My style is vintage/clean/minimalist. I'd like to spend a lot of time in this space, so I need it to double as a small work space, bedroom, and TV/sitting place (I know, that's a ton for such a teensie space). I definitely want to redo the walls, as I think the paint color is abhorrent. I was thinking of using faux brick paneling, like this, but I'm unsure if that'll stay up on the mobile home walls. Any suggestions for combining that kind of look with a nicer paint color (or color suggestions?)

Anyway, a novel but this is my first place and I want to make the most of it I can!

I initially thought it was something like this.

https://www.amazon.com/d-c-fix-Self-Adhesive-Blackwood-17-71-346-0034/dp/B005DRBYTQ/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=black%2Bwood%2Bvinyl&qid=1573177338&sr=8-1&th=1

Amazon

https://www.amazon.co.uk/d-c-fix%C2%AE-adhesive-Woodgrain-Blackwood-346-8007/dp/B005DRBYTQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1462220479&sr=8-2&keywords=black+wood+grain

Hmm I hadn't thought of removable wallpaper.

I just took a look at some and thought this brick one would look sweet as an accent wall (the wall with my TV)

http://www.amazon.com/Wallpaper-Faux-Tuscan-Brick-Looks/dp/B004DF56MU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1420739493&sr=8-3&keywords=removable+wallpaper

I'd still want to change up the colors of the other walls though. Any ideas on what color would work well? Perhaps a dark grey?

As for the carpet, I sort of like the color.

I would personally strip it. Try a 50/50 mix of white vinegar and warm water in a spray bottle. Douse it down, let it sit for a few minutes and it might just wipe right off the walls with a scraper/trowel. You might try gently scoring the paper with a box cutter or an exacto knife before you douse it, that seems to let the vinegar soak in.

If that doesn't work, DIF should take it off.

I say this because if it's textured slightly I don't see how you're going to get a smooth finish if you paint over it.