(Part 2) Best water heater replacement parts according to redditors

I also made an inexpensive electric setup. In my case I only have access to pair of standard 15A GFC outlets (each on a different circuit placed about 15 feet apart). Won't be nearly as fast as your system but still makes great beer and has been working like a champ for a couple of years now.

I purchased a 10 Gallon Tri-Clamp SS pot and found the largest water heater element I could get for a 15A circuit (~1600w). I also have a 1000w immersion bucket heater. I connect the two elements to the pair of 15A GFC plugs. I have an InkBird 1500w temperature controller that turns the bucket heater on/off.

The front of the pot has a valve outlet, so I found a food grade pump used for solar water heating and built a mash recirculation capability into the unit.

If you search for electric anode on amazon you'll find a few options like this one.

This, anode rod is $45 from amazon (here is linked so it can be installed in low ceiling areas, I used in my last house) and prevents rusting the tank. Also draining and flushing the tank and testing the pressure relief valve.

It doesn't matter for the anode rod I bought. https://www.amazon.com/Rheem-SP8371B-Resistor-Flexible-Magnesium/dp/B008J54DJW

Thank you

I ordered a hardness testing kit. When it gets in, I'll maybe post some results.

I normally use Rectorseal Calci-Free for flushing. Pretty sure that stuff is muriatic acid. In my opinion, it works better than vinegar. This last time around, I ran it through the heater for about 45 minutes. Probably should have run it longer.

If you can take this guy apart, please let me know how you did it.

To get a better picture....
Rheem AP12933 Dip Tube/Nipple, 1/2-Inch Diameter by 53-Inch long https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0076RVW6G/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_4cwAub11M1YNP

you could throw a little water heater in there? pet stores have AC submersible water heaters. you can also pickup DC 12 volt heaters like this one

those should at least keep the water from freezing.

if you are heating the water, you could also insulate the reservior to keep the heat in... 2" rigid foam on all sides or something.

good luck. move somewhere warmer!

Construction/industrial remainders. One of my thrift stores always has a ton of this stuff, and no one else buys it because it's mostly welfare mamas looking for more fake Coach purses to strut with.

Specifically, I scored a bunch of these for three bucks a pop - if I want a quick flip, can I just, like, take them to an appliance repair place or something? I don't want to come off as a tweaker trying to fence stolen goods.

They will last a lot longer than that if you replace the anode rod regularly. My gas water heater is more than 12 years old and it's still working efficiently.

Every ceiling is high enough if you're willing to cut a hole in it. :) But there are segmented anode rods like THIS ONE that need less than about 16" of clearance above the heater to install. That particular model is for installation in the hot water nipple.

> "water heater insulation blanket (fiberglass)"

I was thinking Home Depot or Walmart, but maybe this R-6.7 product at Amazon could work.

(This only works if you're putting new ends on the cables)

I am running some cables at my new place and am just using regular 9mm label tape and some cheap clear heat shrink tubing of appropriate size.

I put on a couple cm (about an inch) of tubing, then the boot, then the termination, push the boot into place, apply label, slide tubing into place, shrink it.

if you're running it through walls, use a tester to make sure you know which cable is which.

....This is of course for home use, I might not do this at a larger business. (I'm also subbed to /r/homelab)

Something to consider with a PVC shower, is supplementing your heat. Best way I've found to do so is to use a heating element like this one and couple it with a temp controller. This runs off 12v DC so you'd have to take into account electrical capacity, but I figure I could run that while on the move so the vehicle alternator takes the load, or from an onsite generator if you're in a fixed location.

Disclaimer: I have not run this yet, I'm still in the planning phases of a PVC shower. This was found through research.

EDIT - Found a water heater I'm really considering buying, but it's actually TALLER than my old one. Can I still make it work and would you consider this a good electric water heater? https://www.amazon.com/Westinghouse-WEC080C2X045-High-Efficiency-Electric-LIFETIME/dp/B00OY119HY

Hello, friends.

The electric hot water heater in my basement needs replacing as it's leaking. It's probably about 10 years old and has never been maintenanced. It's a 40 gal. capacity which is way too small for my family of 8. So I'm looking to replace it with an 80 gal. capacity heater. Current broken heater measures 62 1/2" in length so as long as I get an 80 gal. that measures the same or shorter than that I should be good, right? Not really interested in a tankless water heat. Just don't think it'd be the right fit for my family.

Also, any tips are welcomed as this will be my first time replacing a water heater. I'm just starting to get into DIY stuff. Any instructional videos would be awesome too.

Thanks!

Put this on your water heater to help protect the kiddos from scalding (but you still get the hot shower): https://www.amazon.com/Cash-Acme-Thermostatic-Temperature-Application/dp/B01CIRY99A/

Ok, I took out the old part, and the manual mentioned this:
https://imgur.com/a/wqmPE2w

somehow, portion of the old thermocouple is bigger. per the manual it says "contains a thermal fuse, flame lock feature, and don't bend". The universal part doesn't looks like have this "bigger" portion.

should I order it from manufactuer directly? I called manufactuer, customer rep said they can send me a Natural Gas Bfg Conversion Kit (part#100093812 K,FG,DOOR SWITCH,NAT,FG50T40) for about $50, to conver from FG to BFG. Something like this:
AMERICAN WATER HEATER GIDDS-481321 Natural Gas Bfg Conversion Kit Fg-50T40-481321
https://www.amazon.com/AMERICAN-GIDDS-481321-Natural-Conversion-Fg-50T40-481321/dp/B01EZ6LUF8/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=AMERICAN+WATER+HEATER+conversion+kit+FG50T40&qid=1569166247&s=hi&sr=1-1#customerReviews

Put in this one.

https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Water-Heater-Outlet-48-inch/dp/B01LTB0L5C&ved=2ahUKEwjzm_3For7hAhXuhOAKHaFtAusQFjALegQIBxAB&usg=AOvVaw3jz3cTwivUSY2YjunKsDOy

Think I decided on heat set up.

this heater Heater comes triclamp ready with an endcap for 53 bucks

with this ferrule / triclamp kit
2 2" ferrules & 1 2" clamp for $15 delivered. The other 2 ferrules will be saved for a reflux later if this hobby sticks with me.


Thanks for your input, it really helped me decide... Off to study temp controllers. I noticed you linking to the stilldragon controller awhile back. The one you posted... was it the large or medium? The pics both look the same on the ausi site.

Fair enough. They also have 24v beds in that case. You should also be able to find there beds cheaper on their site.

300 X 300mm (approx. 12" X 12") 24V 400W, KEENOVO Universal Flexible Silicone Heater Mat/Pad, 3D Printer Heated Bed Heating Element w/Cut Corners https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074RGMT4H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_f40PDbV4TW935

So something like this then

Is the entire thing submersible? or just the metal and not the cords?