(Part 2) Best water heaters & parts according to redditors

First get a Lowes 10% off coupon -- I believe these are available from the post office by looking/asking for the packet of stuff they provide with change of address forms. Then go to Lowes and look for the scratch and dent stuff. Many of these will only have cosmetic damage to the relatively thin outside skin, while the important part, the vessel which actually contains the water, is perfectly fine. IIRC, there's relatively little difference between models, and you're effectively paying for the rated (warrantied) lifespan. So with a smaller (40G) scratch-and-dent unit with a shorter (6Y) lifespan plus the 10% coupon, you might just be able to get away with spending under $300/electric, $400/gas for the water heater itself.

As for installation, the plumbing is straightforward if you use "shark bite" connectors and flex hose. It's not as good as soldered copper, but if you're not looking to get 40 years out of it, it's a viable alternative -- and very simple to DIY. See: http://www.amazon.com/SharkBite-U3088FLEX18BVLF-Flexible-Connectors-18-Inch/dp/B005O19OTS and a million youtube vids on how to do this. Oh, and get a simple copper pipe cutter to cut your existing pipe to the right length -- they're only a few bucks.

The hard part is electrical or gas work. This is the part where you might want to call in a pro -- especially if it's gas. But if everything above is already done, getting someone to work on only this part might save you a bundle. And if you live in Columbus, you might also be able to skip whatever permit fees an installer will collect for the city.

This concludes the cheapskate's guide to water heater replacement. Don't forget to post back and let us know how it goes, whatever the solution you end up with.

You got it my friend!

Shelving - $90

Shelf Cover - $30

Landscape Fabric - $33

Storage Totes (6 pack) - $50

Local Temp/Humidity Gauges (12 pack) - $23

Incubation Tote Filters - $10

Sterlite Medium Stacking Basket (6 pack) - $15

Humidifier - $26

Standard Fan - Already Owned

Sonoff R2 Wifi Switches (4 pack) - $23

Sonoff TH16 Sensor Switch - $20

1500W Immersion Heater - $45

Standard Cooler w/ Drain - Already Owned

In total, it was a $350 project that could definitely have been done for cheaper, but I wanted to design it in a way that made it as painless as possible to turn my cardboard into mushrooms.

Also, I have an old space heater/fan combo that I intend to use when the temperature starts to drop. I plan to automate it with one of the Sonoff Wifi switches and control it with the Sonoff temp sensor.

It's impossible to say without knowing what model crock pot you have. You can usually find the voltage by looking at it. There should be some kind of label or sticker on the bottom. Most likely, if you're living in a country that's 110V, it most likely is 110V. If you don't know, I would assume it's 120V to be on the safe side unless you live in another country that has the 220v-240v standard.. then assume it uses the higher number.

With that said, to safely do this, you also need to figure out the wattage of the heater element and the amperage rating of the relay. PIDs itself usually only support 3 Amps. With only that, you can only safely switch a 360 watts heating element. Most DIY PID controllers wire a separate SSR that's rated at either 10A or 15A to allow the use of more powerful heaters. Check the numbers first before you start wiring.

To be honest, I wouldn't mess with the nice programmable crock pot. It's such a waste to do so. Crock pots are a poor choice to connect to a temp controller anyways. They are slow to heat up because the ceramic bowl will absorb a lot of the energy before the water heats up. Then when the water reaches the desired temperature and the PID shuts the crock pot off, the water temperature still rises because the ceramic bowl is still heating it up.

You'll be better off using a dumb rice cooker, a coffee urn, or even a water heater element.

http://www.amazon.com/Camco-02103-Screw-In-Heater-Element/dp/B0006IX8AA/

Connect this to an AC cord and just plug that into the PID. You can use any container as long as you properly submerge the heater element to the correct dept.

I've been looking into ideas like this for a little while. Its 1000W so would need a large (expensive) inverter to use that. I hadn't considered carrying the jug to a building and plugging it in outside though... I suppose that would work. But if you're unable to find somewhere/boondocking, it might not work well.

Here's a 600W DC water heater that you could wire directly into your charging system. I'm thinking of drilling a hole in the side one of my water cans and installing this with some rubber gasket/seal. I could then turn it on while driving once my house battery is full.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0182BETBE

Another idea is to plumb a line from your heater core and circulate hot coolant through a heat exchanger that is submersed in water. You can buy pre-made devices for this purpose but they are pretty pricey.

I have an Ecotemp that has been trouble-free for 8 years now. The only issue with it is that it's designed to use D batteries for the propane ignition circuit, at something like 6vDC if I remember correctly. I built a small circuit to step down anything up to around 18vDC to 6v so I could connect it to any automotive battery (alternator charging or not) or power it from a LiPo battery back up to a 4S which I use for portable ham radio operations.

https://www.amazon.com/Eccotemp-L5-Portable-Tankless-Heater/dp/B01MXDZCKM

Use a camping shower, then sell it on Ebay, Craig's List, or Amazon when you are done with it:

https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-BOSS-XB13-Basecamp-Operated/dp/B011TRLVP0

There are commercially available ones, but the most powerful I've seen is 1125W... which is $60. It's cheaper to build one yourself, and as long as it is built properly, it is safe.

If you don't trust yourself to build one and not electrocute yourself, then don't build it.

If you buy a high enough wattage heat stick or element, you should be able to boil. It'll come down to time. It looks like 2000w will get 6 gallons from 72 to 212 in about 65 minutes and 10 gallons in 105 minutes. It's not as simple as linear, but you could heat to strike in ~40 and to boil in ~40 assuming the 6gal. That's not too bad.

I use 2x 6500w elements with the ripple back version of this element

You'll need to do some wiring with a bare cord. You can find a guide that should help here

If your garage has enough amps to run a 240v, or you already have one, you can get a 6500w element for ~27amps (6500/240) which can be supplied off 8guage wire and a 30amp plug. If you drive an electric car, or your family does, you can convince them to install a level 2 charger :P

edit: if you go this route, you should also get a GFCI plug or breaker since you're dealing with water and electricity.

A few more pics. The light sensor has worked great for about 6 months now. I wrote the code so the door doesn't open/close at the same light level so it has to be completely dark to close and somewhat light to open. The light level took a little tinkering and since the sensor is direct line-of-sight location mattered, but overall it has worked flawlessly. No chicken snaffoos ;)

I was thinking immersion heater. A direct feedthrough in the 5 gallon bucket would be nice, something like this but throttled with a dimmer (1500W is a lot for <50 F). Use an automotive coolant temp sensor screwed into the bucket for temp sensing. Turn heater on when temp = low, off when temp = high using a logic fed 120V relay. I would use a 12 V heater but then the power supply starts $$$.

I appreciated your discussion of how chickens can be forced to shat out more eggs in the winter time. I just a simple socket-timer + light to extend their "day time".

Yes it will.

Old school:
https://www.amazon.com/Immersion-heater-immersion-heaters-Camping/dp/B01M63MZ71

THen use instant, french press or pour over. Sorted.

Just get a portable on demand unit, try camping supply stores for maybe 300 bux

Like this, for just a shower these things have come a long way, portable on propane on demand.

https://www.amazon.ca/Eccotemp-L5-Portable-Tankless-Heater/dp/B01MXDZCKM

A small PID controller and bucket heater would work in a water bath type situation. Where the fermenter is inside a heated vessel.

Not sure about direct heat tho.

https://www.amazon.com/11-1-Water-Depth-Heater-Electra/dp/B000R051DE/

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8&products_id=471


I believe even electric blankets have been mentioned - if used with an appropriate level of care...

DIY sous vide style might be what you're looking for.

I've used this in my sous vide rig. You could wire this up to whatever electric (analog controlled) heating device you want. Then you only have to make it once and you'll know how long it takes.

Let me know if you want to know more.

Yep, heated.

You can have:

• Expensive gas RV heaters
  
• Electric heater - not sure if viable
  
• "Portable" Tankless Water Heater
  
• DIY heated tank with a water pump - camping gas stove with secured pot?
  
• Camping gas shower
  
• Cheapest of all Solar shower
  
  Look at the "related products" too.
  
  I haven't decided what I will use yet.

Not sure exactly what elements I'm going with. Based on the conversation and my experience with elements it will be one of the following. Will depend on what kettle i get and tri-clamp attachements (1.5" vs 2")

3500w https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07M5BSMSW

5500w https://www.brew-boss.com/ULWD-L6-30P-Stainless-Steel-Ripple-Heater-Element-p/htr-5500-ripple-l6-30p.htm
5500w https://www.amazon.com/Dernord-Tri-clamp-Stainless-Immersion-Electrical/dp/B075KCJX8W

What about tankless? They seem much more efficient than the standard kind of water heater, even if you're wanting to heat already-warm water.

Yeah I have all of my plumbing inside as well, except for the black water and grey water tank.

So the hot water heater....I wanted an on demand unit. I originally bought this unit https://www.amazon.com/EZ-101-Tankless-Water-Heater/dp/B003327HDK. I started realizing I just didn't have anywhere to put it. You may have better luck cause you are starting totally from scratch it looks like, but my van already had walls up when I bought it. I still have this unit, and I sat on it forever trying to figure out where to put it. It just wasn't going to work. I couldn't mount it easily and run the vent piping.It also draws its combustion air from the space it is mounted in which could be a concern depending upon your use. I was just planning on opening the roof top vent and securing it while sleeping. If you are in the SF bay area I will sell it to you cheap. 50 bucks and its yours :)

I realized I had to buy a different unit, and it ended up being very expensive. I bought https://www.amazon.com/Suburban-5132A-Demand-Water-Heater/dp/B013002JD2 I found it for about 600 on Dyers RV. I have it installed. I haven't used it yet, but it was very easy to install I just had to drill a 4 inch hole in the side of the van and it does intake and exhaust through a hole there with a concentric vent so there is no fire hazard because the exhaust comes out of the inside of the concentric circle. It requires very small clearances. 1/4" on the top and sides so it saves a lot of space. It is definitely a big budget item, but it will be worth it in terms of space I believe.

Heh yeah the one i linked is the minimum or a “sink model” but they make them in all shapes/sizes and with various tank sizes, electrical requirements, etc. just search around.

https://www.amazon.com/Eemax-EEM24013-Electric-Tankless-Heater/dp/B07D7SY8DR/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1541606077&sr=8-2-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=110+tankless+hot+water+heater+electric&psc=1

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rheem-Performance-13-kW-Self-Modulating-2-14-GPM-Electric-Tankless-Water-Heater-RETEX-13/300800566

Well, this all depends on how handy you are and your site conditions. One thing to be sure about is the warranty. Does It require professional (licensed) installation?

This model is probably more than enough for your condo and is in the same price range as the Rinnai. I’m not an expert on every brand, but I know Stiebel Eltron are considered among the best. My philosophy is spend the money on things that should have a long expected life span.
The size of the unit will depend on the number of fixtures you have and where you are located in the country.

Stiebel Eltron 24 Plus Tempra, Tankless Water Heater, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GYZS4RJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JHXQDb70BA9HQ

Ah. Yup, that'd certainly do it. Just another reason to go with bucket heaters or 120v water heater elements.

Aquarium circulaters, immersion water heaters, some sort of plastic cover (limit evaporation), and a temperature probe to monitor water temp.

Sounds like a good weekend project, definitely /r/redneckengineering worthy

What happens if you turn your tub on first, let it get hot, and THEN turn on your sink? If they're fed from the same line it might help a lot. Otherwise, there are plug-in 'instant on' tankless water heaters you might be able to install under your sink. I would DEFINITELY get permission before doing something like this though. I'm a landlord and wouldn't appreciate a tenant making these kinds of modifications without asking first.

This one looks promising but has only one review: https://www.amazon.com/Focket-Electric-Tankless-Fashionable-Temperature/dp/B07TC4QQPV

The sherpa has a 12 volt outlet, why not get a 12 volt immersion heater: https://smile.amazon.com/Immersion-heater-immersion-heaters-Camping/dp/B01M63MZ71/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1512071378&sr=8-3&keywords=12+volt+immersion

DERNORD 120V 2000W Immersion Water Heater Submersible Heating Element Heater Element with 1 Inch NPT Fitting https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M34BZBO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GsDADbH3B8BKX

thannks for your advice! My kitchen breaker is set for 20 amps so I should be able to pull this off without an issue.

My next goal is actually cutting my hole and installing it.
https://www.amazon.com/Dernord-Foldback-Heater-Element-Density/dp/B018S4AP5Y/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1467110896&sr=1-1&keywords=1500w+immersion+heater

I was thinking about getting something like this, then somehow wiring it to my battery but wouldn't know where to begin with that.

Here I was expecting an Airstream or a propane shower.

I used one of these (included with the van) in order to keep things simple:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DP3ZWCY/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_eodGxbH5KPXJ4

You could also added a full water system or get one of these: Mr. Heater BOSS-XCW20 Basecamp Battery Operated Shower System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011TRLWIG/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_WqdGxb7JKMPYB

The sink is a manual hand pump faucet connected to a 5 gallon aquatainer.

The drain from the sink and shower combine and exit in the back corner. I've included some fittings so you can connect it to a bucket or a long drain hose or just let it drain right there which is what we usually do. It's positioned next to a big open area in the underbody where you could install a grey water tank of you wanted to.

If you have an exposed cold supply line not on a heater that has a copper-galvanized connection, can you splice in a short CPVC run to create that same barrier between the metals? Or use something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005O19OTS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_UoMDDb5NPQJK9

found this... seems like a decent option and something you can stow away when you aren't using it. I really would go tankless and easy to use for renters that want the same thing, rather than rigging something up that isn't very appealing to the eye or even slightly complex in operation

edit:[this](http://www.amazon.com/Marey-Portable-Propane-Tankless- Heater/dp/B005DROEZC/ref=pd_sim_sbs_60_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=31FltoZQhML&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160SR96%2C160&refRID=12Y7PQC4FNS6NV01QPDE) one might be better, but the reviews are mixed. Having a shower head is nice as well for the renters to rinse off if they need to

Link???? We're not scries. :P

I have had this one in my AZ list forever: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002JLSH5S/

Is this similar to what you are considering?

EDIT: I realize the link I added has mixed reviews. I have it on my list to find one similar to that when I go to buy, not that specific model.

A complete pilot light/thermocouple/ignitor assembly for an AO Smith GCV 40 101 water heater. I see plenty of references to GCV 40 200/201, but not 101.

I think this is it: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XOEZ9U/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza

...but I don't know if that one is suitable for propane. edit: it's listed as being for natural gas. Still looking for a propane unit.

A thermocouple is $160?

You can probably find a universal type thermocouple and start there.

Also a quick google search leads me to this which looks looks like your pictures: https://www.amazon.com/Reliance-Water-Heater-9003542-Assembly/dp/B000XOEZ9U/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

EDIT: Top review on amazon mentions your model number, so looks like it will work.

In the USA one can order on Amazon latin-america style "suicide showers" that might run on the 20A 120v bathroom circuit, but with that little voltage and current you aren't going to find more then a 40°F rise in water temperature -- so it might work to conserve already heated water at a low flow-rate, but the water will be little more then room-temperature once the apartment's hot-water storage tank is depleted and you are drawing directly from cold-climate ground-temperature water.

Otherwise, the exact thing you seek is available, but be aware that it requires power like an American clothes dryer. The electric showers I used in Europe/UK also required ~32A 240V power.

I can't say that I've never used a camp shower outdoors with the shower hose though the window...

In all of these cases, I'm not sure that the water-volume from the cheaper options would be to your satisfaction.

I am only going by the legal advice I was given by our lawyer (that the hot water going out for a short time doesn't make it inhabitable).
The way it was explained to me is that you can still take cold water and heat it on the stove if you need hot water, for example. Not being able to take a hot shower sucks but it's not render the place unlivable.
11 days seems like a long time when it's happening but, by your account, they seemed to be making an honest attempt to fix it.
I would advise in the future to fight this when it was happening, and not months after the fact. You might be able to come up with a compromise like buying something like this (just an example).