(Part 2) Best wood polish & care products according to redditors

Hope not! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07661YWRJ

Yep... if you are using it for food prep, then definitely don't stain it. What you want to use is Food Grade Mineral oil. You can find it in the grocery store near the laxatives (yep, people use it as a laxative).

Basically it helps to think of cutting boards as a sponge; to be effective it's needs to be damp, in this case with mineral oil.

You can also buy food grade finishes that are a mix between mineral oil and various waxes. You will be shocked at how fantastic it looks after you wipe it down the first time. I make cutting boards and you can see here what a good board looks like with just mineral oil.

Here's our instructions on how to care for wood cutting boards.

Here's an amazon link to john boos products the oil is just oil, and the conditioner is oil with some waxes mixed in.

Good luck!

I live in a 100+ year old building on a busy NYC intersection and close enough to a train line that it rattles the building when they pass (which I am convinced makes it worse) -- this place is DUSTY AF ALL THE TIME. I have lived here 8+ year and tried literally everything, here's what works for me:

• Air purifier helps quite a lot, especially in the bedroom
  
• Cleaning a room from top to bottom and finishing with vacuuming
  
• Switching from a bagless vacuum to a bagged model, I don't love rebuying bags but it's much less of a mess than emptying a vacuum canister
  
• I know people love them but microfiber cloths didn't work well for me, I also found microfiber dusters disappointing
  
• Swiffers are actually pretty good, mostly for spots where you don't want to or can't move everything (i.e. bookshelves)
  
• The BEST method I've used is actually just old-fashioned dust spray and a cut-up 100% cotton t-shirt, I use Endust Free (because I don't love scented products) and it grabs everything and hangs onto to it without just smearing it around. I'm constantly shocked/impressed by the amount of dust it will pick up

They make crayons for this, should be in the paint section of your local bigbox. Won't be perfect, but will look better than it does now.

https://www.amazon.com/Furniture-Scratch-crayon-14-Color-Suitable-Utensils-Dualshine/dp/B078MT5Z3Z?keywords=furniture+crayons&qid=1540634485&sr=8-2-spons&ref=sr_1_2_sspa&psc=1

Pro tip: Buy Oz Cream Polish. Works great on stainless (and other surfaces).

https://www.amazon.com/Mohawk-Finishing-Products-Cream-Polish/dp/B0115QA5S4

For all wood vape owners out there!

There are plenty of good wood conditioners out there, I suggest applying some to keep your wood nice and hydrated and to make the grain pop. It feels nicer in the hand to me too. And the after picture is only after one coat.

Some vapes come finished already so this only applies to unfinished wood.

Look for products used as butcher block/cutting board conditioners since they are food safe and use natural ingredients like beeswax, caranuba Wax, and natural oils.

Here's what I used: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074JXS7TZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OFrLDbJAAJM9X

Just wipe it on with a rag, let it soak for 30 minutes+ (I do overnight), wipe it off, and let it dry for a bit. Super easy and it will look and feel much better.

I considered tung oil or even a poly finish but this is much safer and easier and gives a good result.

This is my milaana 1 but my milaana 2 came with some deep scratches in the wood so I sanded it with 180-220 grit and then finished it with the same conditioner and it looks incredible. I'll do a before and after and a guide for sanding it to a smoother finish soon.

Do you want to bleach it to clean/sanitize, or make it lighter in color?

If the former, chlorine bleach (diluted) followed up with some mineral oil or an oil/wax blend. That's not going to change the color.

To lighten it you need to sand it down close to bare wood and use A/B bleach (2 part wood bleach). It's pretty nasty to work with but will get it white

A magnet strip should have any and all good quality knives, brand doesn’t matter as long as you enjoy it. Humid or not rust finds a way unless in the desert lol. I use mineral oil as a barrier for any water could splash in my knife without me noticing. Plus if you ever own carbon steel knives it’s a habit you must keep. The blocks are worse since they trap moisture and the wood can run against the edge and dull it. Magnetic strip is best.

I use this mineral oil. 3 little drops each side with a paper towel. 4 oz - Food Grade Mineral Oil for... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VNI1JEO?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I wouldn't sand or use many tools at all. I would clean those cabinets with a standard household cleaner like Simple Green to get the dirt off, then wipe it with mineral spirits on a damp rag to get off more grime, wax, and solids that will break down using mineral spirits, then use a product like Howard's Restore - a - Finish to freshen up the look and color in the chipped spots. It comes in clear and a couple colors. I usually use clear or golden oak, but dark oak may be best for your cabinets.

https://www.amazon.com/Howard-Restor-Finish-Furniture-Restorer/dp/B00JOREVLE

I started refinishing my parents' 1961 teak furniture set, beginning with nesting tables and an end table. (1) First, I cleaned the surfaces using a clean cloth dipped in water & liquid Dawn; then rinsed and dried. (2) I used #000 steel wool and mineral spirits to hand-rub with the grain and deep-clean the surfaces, then wiped off the debris with a microcloth. I did this several times. (3) I applied clear (neutral) stain with a clean applicator pad, let it sit for about 10 minutes, then wiped off excess. After it dried, I repeated this application. (4) To finish, I applied a light top-coat of Renaissance wax and buffed the surface. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I0EK92C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm not experienced at this and I probably could have done more to remove dark stains, but the veneer was so thin on the tables that I was afraid to do much aggressive sanding. Everything was done by hand to control the progress.

Easy.

The best stuff for knives, IMO, is mineral oil. It's a pretty good lubricant, a pretty good rust preventive, it's tasteless, orderless, colorless, stable, and non-toxic.

Plain old regular gun oil is mineral oil, like this stuff:

https://www.amazon.com/2-Pack-Hoppes-No-Lubricating-Bottle/dp/B01N276AI0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499553423&sr=8-1&keywords=hoppes+gun+oil

Note that you can get five times as much if it says "cutting board oil" on the label, and this stuff is actually certified food grade:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EUJZCZK/ref=sxr_rr_xsim_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3008523062&pd_rd_wg=tMFxb&pf_rd_r=G2PZQRNR43B7A9P8JZEX&pf_rd_s=desktop-rhs-carousels&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B00EUJZCZK&pd_rd_w=w6KUs&pf_rd_i=cutting+board+oil&pd_rd_r=TA5JECAD1BSQS3Z8VY60&ie=UTF8&qid=1499553407&sr=1

A couple of drops on a paper towel, wipe it on the exposed metal, wipe it off. That's all you need. Take care to store fixed blade knives outside of leather sheaths, the leather left in contact with metal can hold moisture and tanning chemicals against the steel and cause rust. (Your sheath is metal but the leather loop can still damage the handle).

Other folks use wax instead of oil, usually this stuff:

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_5_3?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=renaissance+wax&sprefix=ren%2Caps%2C350&crid=3R8WKKC9JJEM6

I have no personal experience but it seems to work great. You use one or the other, not both.

I am looking for a natural oil finish and I want to avoid toxic substances and fumes. I tried food grade white mineral oil but the surface is still greasy a week later (its possible i did not put it on correctly). I saw some forum posts that people claimed its because mineral oil is a non-drying oil and it will always feel that way. So far this is what I have come up with Tried & True Oil and Walrus Oil has anyone used either of these or have other suggestions?

Well I might be 10 days late with my answer, but in germany a furniture polish called "Pronto" is used to lubricate.

Seems like it is called "Pledge" in the US.

https://www.amazon.com/Pledge-960336-Furniture-Spray-Fresh-275/dp/B07C5WXTQQ/

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It's way better than silicon lubricant and it even gets the dust out of your bearings. I'm not sure though, if the american pledge is exactly the same as the european version, so here is a link to german amazon:

https://www.amazon.de/Pronto-Möbelpflege-Spray-Holzflächen-90-iger-Allergenbeseitigung/dp/B006UNCXEM/

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Using it for about 6 years now, have been using silicon based for about 1-2 years before, no damage on my bearings.

Edit: It's a foam that comes out of this bottle, the size of a pea is enough for each side and rod. Spray it on the rod outside of the table or else you'll get a very slippery table

use https://www.amazon.com/NADAMOO-Furniture-Marker-Repair-Scratch/dp/B07JJ1DLGG directly, I think it would be less noticeable than sanding & painting

I have used Walrus Oil - https://www.amazon.com/WALRUS-OIL-Cutting-Butcher-Food-Safe/dp/B074QVDKYC., followed by their wood wax - https://www.amazon.com/WALRUS-OIL-Food-Safe-Cutting-Board/dp/B075LP6ZGC/ref=pd_bxgy_201_img_2/130-6165422-9216561?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B075LP6ZGC&pd_rd_r=bf1a6641-da2f-49a5-b4f5-655363aedb26&pd_rd_w=v2prV&pd_rd_wg=x1vms&pf_rd_p=09627863-9889-4290-b90a-5e9f86682449&pf_rd_r=10ARAW1HTA5SDVHJW2VH&psc=1&refRID=10ARAW1HTA5SDVHJW2VH.

Is there a better deal that I can get besides this

I can do that. I bought the steel wool and used some with the wax/oil mixture like the instructions suggested to get rid of steam stains. It kinda worked but it also kind of sanded it down and made the color lighter. Also the wax seems to have made part of the wood darker. I’m wondering if I should just bit the bullet and sand it or strip it and stain it then seal it.

amazon link
The final finish is that stuff mixed with carnauba wax. I get the feeling that Marc will offer it up on his site soon enough.

Not only is this Lemon pledge good for getting votes, but it also keeps your furniture clean and smelling nice. Now good for floors too.

I really like [Old English](Old English Light Wood Scratch Cover, 8 oz, Multicolor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009Y6G7I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_kZ8RCbER02WCH) for covering scratches and restoring color. Make sure you get the kind for light woods unless you want to turn your furniture a dark brown.

I really like [Murphy’s Oil Soap](Murphy’s Oil Soap, 32-Ounce (Pack of 3) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J8L2WZ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_r18RCbH1TC6AW) for cleaning grimy furniture. It’s not going to remove the finish.

The original formula will also clean leather! You dilute it in warm water and scrub. Towel off with a soft cloth, then condition with neetsfoot oil or leather conditioner. I have restored really old, dried out saddles, bridles, and boots with this method. It’s great for taking the scratches out of leather, like scratches from your cat or scuffs on shoes.

You can also rub a clear wax (or even a tinted one) on top of the clean wood to moisturize and protect it. Like if you clean too much of the dark off, you can dab a tinted wax into the crevices then rub with a soft cloth to remove the excess. Waxed furniture can be cleaned with water. The upside of wax is that if you don’t like it, you can rub it off with mineral spirits instead of having to take the entire wood finish off. You can also put a poly coat over wax. There’s a rub on poly that is easier to apply than trying to brush it on.