Best wood screws according to redditors
We found 37 Reddit comments discussing the best wood screws. We ranked the 27 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 37 Reddit comments discussing the best wood screws. We ranked the 27 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Kreg Pocket Hole Screws
Amazon: 30% off ($20.96) SK03 Pocket Hole Screw Kit or Starter Kit, good assortment of commonly used sizes for 1/2" and 3/4" material.
150 1 inch fine
150 1-1/4 inch fine
150 1 inch course
150 1-1/4 inch course
75 2-1/2 inch course (exterior rated)
https://smile.amazon.com/Kreg-SK03-Pocket-Hole-Screw-Sizes/dp/B001DC9USC
Use these, and you will not strip them out:
https://www.amazon.com/HOMEPAK-42172-Square-Drive-Screws/dp/B007HV6XJW
I got you.
20 Pack Figure 8 Steel Desk Top Fastener Clip
I would avoid those plates, they never seem to hold things tight enough, and they leave sharp corners everywhere, but if you insist on using them get some flat head (that refers to the shape of the head, not what kind of screw driver you use) or oval head screws.
There are a couple of ways I would approach this, depending on how you want it to look at the end. If you don't mind some screw heads in the top, attach a piece of lumber crosswise underneath, like picnic tables are built. Glue everywhere wood touches wood, and screw down through the top into the crosspieces. Depending on the tools you have available you can do anything you want with the crosspiece, angle the ends, round the corners, its up to you.
If screws in the top is a concern, then I would recommend a biscuit joiner. They're not the cheapest tool in the world, and they aren't a tool you'll use every day, but nothing beats them when you want to join two pieces of wood without visible fasteners.
If that's too much money you could consider a pocket hole jig, some woodworkers swear by them, some swear at them, personally I'm not a huge fan but they are cheap and if you glue the joints too it should work fine for your job.
Whatever you choose, get a sanding block and be prepared to sand those joints smooth. Some methods (biscuits) will make smoother joints than others, but they still need sanding to remove the tiny bump that will inevitably remain between the boards.
Edit Oh also, for clamping (which will only really be required if you do the biscuits), tremendous pressure is not required unless you are trying to straighten one of the boards when you clamp it. Put some cardboard or plywood on the edges to protect your tabletop, tie a rope around it loosely, then use a stick to twist the tied rope and put pressure on the joints. Leave the stick in and put something heavy against it to keep it from un-twisting. You'll probably want several of these for the length of your table.
Kreg SK03 Pocket-Hole Screw Kit in 5 Sizes https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DC9USC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WcTxCbCFH11HP
I got that one and then just bought boxes of the screws I used the most.
The best door reinforcement kit for the money. Just drop these guys in your current locks
Kicking in the door will be a thing of the past. But at that point I suggest getting something for the windows you likely have. Using the money you saved from the above product to spend on the windows and then maybe a few extra dead bolts and window bar.
Here's a amazon link to shock resistant window protective film.
The current posts are all for items that are repeatedly taken apart and put together. It sounds like you want permanent fitting? https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B007IWH92U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_verxxbZKX4VRJ
But I may be wrong?!?!?
The floor is hardwood, I put some "gym" flooring I got from Walmart down, so I don't dare deadlift anything I'd have to drop, but they're more comfortable to lay on and roll my dumbbells around on. The cable tower I stove bolted to a piece of ply to give it a larger footprint to spread the weight over the flooring as well. It's also screwed into a stud near the top with these construction screws to prevent tipping. Haven't had any problems so far, but I also haven't really dropped anything on it knock on wood
To fasten the top to the cabinet? I didn't because most granite tops are held in place similar to how I did mine (so I understand at least.) A little construction adhesive in the corners and you're good to go.
However, when I do an undermount sink for my kitchen, I'll embed something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Water-Insert-Fixing-Furniture-8x25mm/dp/B00KRXZB86/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1449846283&sr=8-3&keywords=furniture+insert+threads
.
With those in place around the perimeter of the hole, I can use any number of small brackets to fasten an undermount sink to the counter.
I guess it depends how much work you want to put into it. I'd saw the broken leg off, reinforce and then glue or glue and screw the leg back on with one of [these] (https://www.amazon.ca/DOWEL-SCREW-DOUBLE-WOOD-STEEL/dp/B007IWH92U)
Edit. I mean the chair is broke anyway, it's not like you can make it more broke. Just my 2 cents
In Minnesota i see them all the time. But i was never a fan of them. They would bite the bit and pull it out of the drill. But if you really like them this is a link to some on amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007HV6XJW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Z983ybHK7YPNE
Yeah you just need a better (sharper) drill bit. Alternatively, get some self tapping screws.
http://www.amazon.com/Crown-Bolt-30992-Zinc-Plated-Self-Drilling/dp/B004XMZCSG/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1405128132&sr=1-2&keywords=self+tapping+screws
In the long run they really aren't that expensive and they really are the right choice for the job. I got a deal on this screw kit awhile ago and love it for holding all my different sizes. When I run low on a particular kind I just fill up that section. http://www.amazon.com/Kreg-SK03-Pocket-Hole-Screw-Sizes/dp/B001DC9USC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1373908528&sr=8-1&keywords=kreg+jig+screws
MAKITA FTW. I have one on these, and it drives these screws and much longer ones ones all day long without issue. it's very ergonomic, and the batteries charge DAMN quick! I have had it (and a full set of their other products) for around four years, and with daily construction use they are still kicking ass. ...they don't look quite so pretty anymore, but that's user error =P I will make one note though,the Lithium Ion batteries do have a limited lifetime, using them full time like I have they lasted me for two years each.
I bought that same card from Overclockers UK and it's terrific, it was the first one I've ever bought/used so didn't really what to expect for £150.
Also just bought Articlean set off Amazon for a £10, it comes with the 3.5g tube but the Hyper 212 Evo should come with thermal paste anyway.
Also maybe consider ditching the sound card and going with the Asus Maximus Hero/Ranger motherboard it has better on board audio, I would imagine at least as good as the sound card you were looking at.
Rest looks good!
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Arctic-Silver-Paste-Articlean-Cleaner/dp/B003VRBPAI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1411939168&sr=8-2&keywords=arctic+silver
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Am-Tech-1500W-Hot-Air-Gun/dp/B002VJO70W/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1411939212&sr=8-4&keywords=heatgun
http://digiex.net/attachments/guides-reviews/console-guides/playstation-3-guides/5344d1284624453-gilksys-playstation-3-ps3-yellow-light-death-ylod-fix-repair-guide-ylod-fix.pdf
That's all you need to fix the ylod
I'm a fan of these Simpson 1/4" lag screws with 3/8" hex head/integrated washer. They're self-drill, and half-threaded just on the far end so they pull 2x material together quite well. They do well in old wood, too, which it looks like you have.
The ties will overlap the rafters by quite a bit (once you taper the tie's ends) so three of these lag screws at each lap joints should be overkill enough. Plus you'll get to use that spiffy impact driver you've always wanted. (If you're close to the cut end of the tie, pre-drilling may prove worthwhile to avoid splitting.)
Link to the Amazon page for them: https://www.amazon.com/Simpson-Strong-SDS25312-R25L-Structural-4-Inch/dp/B005LD2G3A/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=Simpson+Strong+Tie+SDS+Structural+Wood+Screws&qid=1571962659&s=hi&sr=1-2
But buy local if the price is close, because that will help them decide to keep them in stock for your next adventure.
I notice that distantreplay had this approach as well. Updoots.
I'm doing the same with plywood in my garage for a woodshop, following this guy. After a lot of thought I settled on it being the best alternative to drywall. Easy to put up. I'll use finish screws and always be able to easily take the walls down to get to wiring or rearrange outlets. Cant put a hole in it swinging a wild 2x4. And no one expects a wood wall to be perfectly smooth.
A little more expensive if you're paying retail. But I found a business on craigslist selling stacks of plywood half sheets for $3 in the materials section.
looks great, but if i may nit pick a little, the anti-corrosion screws you used to screw into the wood were not made for wood. screws with that self-drilling tip might pull out since they're made for metal. you should have used something like this. Others have also commented about your choice to glue wood to cement, which is also not the safest choice you could have made. You should have used a masonry drill bit to drill a pilot hole, then used something like concrete screws or anchors that will expand to squeeze in tight to the hole.
I used the old school terminology. These are much easier to use and don't require you to drill a hole. Also, although they look spindly they are as strong as larger lag bolts. Just make sure you're hitting the meat of a joist.
What brand/style of hinges?
For euro hinges I'd use a #6 x 5/8" to attach the hinge to the door and a slightly longer one, say 3/4" to attach to the face frame (assuming it's the kind that screws into the side of the face-frame).
Something like this. You can find equivalent at Home Depot, too.
So I've heard. I'm going to buy some new thermal paste as well, is this a good kit do buy do you think? Looks like a good deal to me.
Yes it is, air bubbles will have formed and act as an insulator. This will make the entirety of the thermal paste useless and lead to sever CPU overheating. You will need to purchase some more.
Here is a link to some good quality thermal paste that will last you a while as while as a remover kit
Thermal Paste and Remover kit : https://www.amazon.co.uk/Arctic-Silver-Thermal-Paste-Arcticlean/dp/B003VRBPAI/ref=sr_1_6?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1483407008&sr=1-6&keywords=Thermal+paste
Rok brand is another
https://www.amazon.com/Rok-Hardware-Coarse-Phillips-Modified/dp/B01M4LZQCD
Google "Threaded Rod Fitting" and something should pop up that works. Sammys is the first that comes to mind.
Sorry if I'm screwing this up, I've never posted before. I just had some questions and was hoping some of the fine folks here could help.
Any help to a novice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
There is special hardware that allows the tabletop to move as necessary.
Here is one style. With this type, you use a Forstner bit to make a little recess in the apron to allow for a flush-fitting, and then attach as normal. You put them on the 2 opposite sides that do not expand/contract as much (width of the boards), and then leave them off of the 2 sides that expand/contract more (length of the boards).