(Part 3) Top products from r/3dshacks

I think I can do that for ya, honestly. I also have, for the left joystick, little caps that make grip better if that interests you too. Maybe private message me I suppose, get this goin!

Edit: and no purchasing, they're so silly cheap, I got it n the postage etc..

Edit 2: This is the left joystick cover, could hook you up with one of those. I honestly love it. Long gaming sessions are perfect for this seemingly simple and pointless lil' grip.

Edit 3: And this is the c-stick replacement. Someone else linked it above as well, but yeah, the psp-1,000 joystick or whatever. Works really great.

Edit 4: Since I'm really gettin down on all this N3DS speak, I'd like to share this as well. My goodness, it makes gaming 1,000x better. Since the grips are not directly under the 3DS, and they are almost basically on the sides, it makes it feel like a legit, comfortable ass videogame controller! (In the vein of an Xbox or PS4 controller) With how I said the grips are on the sides, it makes it not feel so damn cramped like some of the other N3DS grips can. It's seriously so, SO worth the $15 bucks.

Well, I'm glad I saw that big red box before submitting this as a thread!


TL;DR: Does the gateway emulation in Supercard DSTWO+ brick 3DS's? I'm trying to decide on what flashcart to buy.

I bought the original Supercard DSTWO years ago and it worked great, and the DSTWO+ seems like the only solution if you want a lot of NDS games on your 3DS.

So I guess what I'm wondering is, if I use gateway emulation on the SuperCard DSTWO+, will I brick my N3DS XL? Are there particular firmware versions to avoid? And otherwise, what's the best solution for playing NDS/3DS/Emulated games, without having to swap flashcarts all the time?

Also, tangentially, does anybody know of any N3DS XL shells that have built in storage for game carts? I had this back in the day for my DS, but I can't find anything else like it. I only mention this because picking up a Sky3DS and using it in conjunction with my old Supercard DSTWO seems like a reasonable solution if I have a good way to carry both of them around all the time. Less chance of bricking that way, I figure.

Most certainly, as well as broadcasts from other wireless devices (the 3DS only operates on a 2.4 GHz frequency) and the quality of the router hardware you're using. As Ratteltra said below, the modem/router ISPs provide you are very basic and have limited functionality outside of getting connected to the internet.

Personally, I found it worthwhile to invest in a new modem and router, because then I wouldn't have to rely on crappy hardware from ISPs and would be able to control my network with more tools. Things to look for in a router include MuMiMo (Multi-user, multi-input, multi-output; meaning that traffic doesn't bottleneck in multi-user households) and a QoS engine, which allows you to prioritize traffic to specific devices. I have my 3DS and desktop on Tier 1, my cell and roommates' machines on Tier 2, and other devices on Tier 3.

If you choose not to purchase new hardware, there are other steps you can take to increase the quality of your streams. As I mentioned, the 3DS only operates on 2.4 GHz frequency, which is susceptible to interference from other 2.4GHz devices (cell phones, cordless phones, microwaves, other 3DSs, etc.). Getting closer to the router is a good starting point. Eliminating or minimizing interference from other devices is another good option. Lastly, you may want to consider changing your network configuration to only use the 2.4 GHz frequency for your 3DS, forcing other compatible devices onto a 5 GHz access point. Many modern routers broadcast both channels, so simply changing the SSID or password and not sharing it with anyone could help reduce the load.

For reference, here are the items I purchased. While it didn't completely eliminate my issues with Kit-Kat, it did improve the quality of my streams significantly.

Router: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XGB3X7R/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Modem: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004UGG5KE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Regards.

I replaced my C-stick with a PSP C-Stick. It's much better than the 3DS C-stick, imo.

You can buy a PSP C-stick here

And here is a tutorial on how to replace it.

Just a warning, you need to open up your 3DS for this so will need a screwdriver. I highly recommend you use a Phillips #00 screwdriver.

Now it might feel a little weird when you use PSP c-stick, but you will get used to it. I use it all the time in Monster Hunter and it works really great.

Hi, I just hacked my 3ds recently, and I used a 4GB sd card to hack.
And I want to get a bigger size sd card. I have a few questions,
does all type of sdhc card fit to an old 3ds? I see there have one on amazon, https://www.amazon.com/NINTENDO-compatible-Coolpix-Easyshare-Powershot/dp/B004X7ROPU/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1468303003&sr=8-1&keywords=3ds+sdhc+card , does it fit to an old 3ds? Should I get it? any recommend an old 3ds sdhc card?

Thank

Pokemon Ranger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000G75AXE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7A4vybSKQEMZ7

Pokemon Ranger: Shadows of Almia https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DO5BWY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_zB4vybWPFB0P3

Happy holidays.

Do you happen to mean one of these beautiful beasts? My Kiwi Green GBC also sported one for a very long time...
https://www.amazon.com/Shock-Color-Accessory-Comfort-Speaker/dp/B00006AKO5

Here's an applicable copy :) https://www.amazon.com/Hotel-Transylvania-Nintendo-3DS/dp/B00847PAE2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492971524&sr=8-1&keywords=834656086503 Not sure if it's EU though. u/Alucard-J2D

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001AHAW0K i have this set, the one with the white cap works well for the n3ds

Google is your friend.
Never sold? It's all over the internet bro.

You don't get an education to study about games, and who has the right to tell someone to get education when he doesn't even have knowledge of the internet?

Where in the EU?
https://www.amazon.de/Nintendo-3DS-Ersatz-Akku-farblich-sortiert/dp/B004X0QZ0C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1493973000&sr=8-2&keywords=nintendo+new+3ds+akku

https://www.amazon.com/Nyko-Charge-Base-3DS/dp/B004SJFJUA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492892551&sr=8-1&keywords=nyko+3ds

There is a used one for 40 dollars.

http://www.amazon.com/Cubic-Ninja-Nintendo-3DS/dp/B004SG211I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1450664534&sr=8-1&keywords=cubic+ninja

If you're trying to find the smallest PCB I think this is about it...

https://smile.amazon.com/Mobile-microSDHC-Memory-Reader-Works/dp/B002K7EJDK?sa-no-redirect=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000USRG90/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481385838&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=blue+light+blocking+glasses&dpPl=1&dpID=411Ll%2BAifkL&ref=plSrch

Thanks for the reply. When looking at a teardown of a 2ds xl the battery is rechargeable lithium ion 1300mah, 3.7v, and 5wh. So could I, in theory, replace the battery with a this if I can get the posotive and negative parts to match up with the 2ds's.

You are correct that the cost of the actual wire is negligible, which is why I didn't actually add it in the cost.

You are also correct that it is kynar. Perhaps it was inappropriate to mention the wire at all, I was just trying to stress that I am using high quality parts not that it is the end all be all of wire :) Although I would not say you can get a "big ass spool" of it for $10. This is what I use:

https://www.amazon.com/Jonard-Industries-R30G-0100-Coated-Silver/dp/B00IKDI35I/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1481292737&sr=8-3&keywords=kynar

Fedex is $7, but I always insure for $300 which brings the cost to about $10-11

I had a similar problem with hotel single MAC connections, I ended up using a portable router to set up a wireless LAN for my devices.

https://www.amazon.com/HooToo-Wireless-Performance-TripMate-Hotspot/dp/B00HZWOQZ6

Hi guys, I'm completely new to r/3dshacks, so please pardon my crudeness and my lack of knowledge!

Recently, I bought a second-hand o3DS LL (japan version) from Amazon, to be specific the Theatrhythm limited edition. My original plan was to get the 3DS first, then use Plailect's guide to install al9h on it and then region swap it to US region. (sorry if I'm offending anyone with any crude terms, I'm really very new to all this.)

When I received the 3DS today, it turned out that it seemed to have gotten hard resetted. The first option for language was English, which I selected. I checked the firmware, and it says "10.1.0-27u". Doesn't that mean US firmware? I tried some US game carts on it and they worked fine.

So yeah, can someone explain to this clueless guy how the previous owner managed to change the region on the 3DS? Is there any way I can check? And how would I know whether a9lh is installed? Thanks in advance!

Yeah, that would be alright. An unregulated iron would get way too hot, so having any kind of regulation makes all the difference. With one of those irons, I would use an official Hakko T18-S7 tip, this solder, a flux pen, and some 99% isopropyl on q-tips to clean up the flux afterwords.

The temperature you want is as low as possible but still hot enough to melt the solder pads as soon as the iron contacts. Somewhere around 330C. When you're doing a hard mod, you don't want to make contact with the iron for more than a few seconds at a time or you could start melting off SMD components around the pads. Allow the board time to cool between wires.

To contradict OP, almost anyone can do a hard mod with the right equipment and technique. It's basically cheating with the above setup. People who botched theirs had to be doing things very wrong.