(Part 3) Top products from r/DnDIY

I had this posted in r/DnD for a bit and someone suggested I post it over here. Im not sure how crossposting works, so I just did a copy/paste. I know some DIY subreddits aren't fans of 3D printers and such so if this is against the subreddit please let me know and I'll take it down.

So we recently upgraded our Monoprice 3D printer to a swanky new Prusa i3 Mk3 and after setting it up and printing some things we had a moment of "What else can we do?" Now my FIL is a carpenter who, after seeing the Wyrmwood Arsenal Kickstarter, we challenged to also build one. It came out beautiful, but was very large and very heavy. We decided to also try our hand at it, but we are not carpenters. We are gamers and have a host of technology skills.....sooooo we bought a shit ton of wood filament and learned some CAD.

After a couple iterations of magnet location changes, size changes, and the like we managed to get the vault and box into a size that will fit (most) plastic and metal dice sizes while also being light and compact. We remixed the logo on the box from another thingiverse model. The wood filament stained up super nice and we are really excited about it. Bought some cork sheets and some premium felt from the craft store that will line the box so you can use it for rolls and acoustic foam that will go in the vault for the minis and dice.

It may seem simple but it took us quite a bit of time to get everything sized in mm just right, learn the software, and print off each iteration (the final wood print took just under 23 hours for just one side of the vault at optimal settings)

All the photos: https://imgur.com/gallery/5KpwCl3

The Thingiverse File for Everyone to love: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2892142

Update! (5/6): Image of everything put together with stain, foam, and padding.

Magnets:

Neodymuim Magnets: These are the ones we usesd but obv you can adjust for whatever you have or can find.

[Edit by Popular Request] The Dice:

Blue/Black Metal

Blue plastic

Dwarven Metal

Filament:

Colorfabb Woodfil Fine Filament

I don't have any "methods," since I've never tried to sculpt individual feathers (just a feature "texture" on wings). But I'd suggest using green stuff or a similar two-part epoxy putty, if you weren't already. It holds detail amazingly well and dries almost as hard as plastic, while being much less brittle than modeling clay. Something that protrudes off the edge of a model (like, I'm guessing, your feathers) could still get snapped off, but during normal play, or even if you drop the model from a reasonable height like a game table, it should be totally fine. I'm not a sculptor by any means, but that's the best material I know to recommend.

But as for a "way to sculpt or apply feathers" once you have the green stuff, I'm not sure, and it would depend on how big you want the feathers to be. I can attach some pictures of a project I'm working on to give you ideas, if you want, but I haven't yet added any free-standing feathers. They're molded directly onto the wings of the model, so I don't have to worry about them breaking off.

for large creatures!

The hole punches are pretty cheap on amazon ($11 for 1", and $12.50 for 2"), so even if you only deal with a few dozen large creatures over your DM life, it could still save you a decent chunk of time. But I'd totally understand if it's not a regular thing for you/your campaign(s).

For me, because I play on a whiteboard on the wall instead of on a mat on the tabletop, I instead use 2" per 5ft so that my players can more easily see everything.

I also print a lot of doubles for each token in different colours. This means that each mini has a unique colour (or different hair, weapons, etc). Which gives me flexibility to represent different setups for a fight, and it helps me keep track of each creature's hp without having numbers on every single mini.

To store and organise all of them, I bought some 3-ring binders, and clear photo sleeves. I also "borrowed" a sheet of sticky labels from work.
Originally I just used one envelope per monster type, and rubber-banded them together. But I found that got really annoying to deal with once I got to like 15 different monsters - an alphabetised folder is much faster and easier to flip through.

That’s a good idea too.

The original version of these was beer bottle caps with a 1” furniture-to-floor felt stickers stuck inside then hammered flat.

Things got out of hand though, and I’d find myself trawling all the exotic (and expensive) beers for cool bottle tops.

I really enjoy using this dice tower a lot. Pretty darn cheap and works well. Additionally, it folds down pretty small.

https://www.reddit.com/r/DnDIY/comments/6x7nig/oc_acrylic_flying_miniature_stands/?st=j70mgv4s&sh=0c9743e9

I went and made a post about it, but I'll leave the reply below...



I have, I can post pictures when I get home tonight. I made 2x2 and 4x4 stands, at 2 different heights. They're supported in the corners.

The platforms are acrlyic, and I scored in a grid on the bottom side (so if need be, I could use dry-erase on the unscored side, this has never come up though... lol). The corner post is also acrylic. I purchased everything from McMaster-Carr, but you can get the same materials on Ebay for a bit cheaper, I just had a few other things I was ordering from them at the time.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#plastics/=196icwz

https://www.amazon.com/SCIGRIP-10315-Acrylic-Cement-Low-VOC/dp/B003HNFLMY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1504192570&sr=8-4&keywords=acrylic+glue

I sketched up a 3D model to illustrate how they're assembled. I used an acrlyic adhesive that actually melts/bonds the acrylic pieces together, so it's quite a strong connection. If I were to redo it... I'd maybe go with a 3x3 grid, with a center post, but I've had a handful of metal minis on the edges of the 4x4's and there's hardly any deflection.

Finally, here's a photo of a pirate ship where I used 2 of the 4x4's to elevate the deck, and then the 2x2's to create a lookout's nest. Everything was quite sturdy (the floors of the ship are cardstock).

And if you want to support Wyloch here’s a link, at no extra charge to you he gets a small kickback and funds go to support his channel.
Cheap easy way to support an artist.
(I crafted this from a Wyloch video)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013JRFUA/?ref=exp_wylochscraftingvids_lv_dp_vv_mw

I simply download pictures of whatever mobs I want to make and minimize them to an appropriate size and print out a sheet of them. Here's an example of a group of kenkus that I made a while back.

Then I use self-stick furniture pads & a round paper punch to make custom tokens. I've found that with my particular punch it's better to use a thicker paper, like a cardstock or construction paper.

Then for storage I simply put them into a fishing tackle box. I've made several hundred that way.

Flash Forge Creator Pro. I had a lot of problems with it out of the box with clogging in the nozzles and things sticking to the build plate. After adding a metal hotend and magnetic build plate it has worked amazingly with no issues. I see the magnetic build plate is out of stock, so not sure where you can get those now, but being able to just flex the plate and have pieces pop right off is great.

here is the resin

here is the silicon

here is the dye

i'm a poor art student so i've gone kinda the cheaper route, other stuff you might need are popsicle sticks, styrofoam cups to make your molds, and glitter and whatsuch if you'd like to go that route. over all i put about $60ish into the stuff i've linked above. good luck dude!

(edit: formatting bc mobile :p)

Plastic embroidery canvas makes great for material for mesh windows.

Thanks! I got this one off Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005P1TRAS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_pIoTAxt7fU2iu

If you want stone, take a look at your local hardware store for tile options. A lot of these are thin, as you say you don't want, but talk to whomever is there about using slate on walls (and floors if you want).

For extra tavern flair, I recommend using animal skins as rugs (or fake animal skins if you prefer; you can even get crazy colors and make up in-game animals that they're from). Thin animal (or fake animal) skins can also work as chair-throws, table cloths, and bar-coverings.

Google around for "medieval wall sconce" for ideas or for DIY. Check out your local Ren Faire or blacksmith for other tips. They'll be a good source for you for a olde timey hinges and a sword rack, too.

They most certainly do.

However, you may find the off-brand stuff more economical.

I'm using a small transducer that I grabbed off amazon for about 10 bucks.

(Link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PAK245E/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_9kNBDb744V3MM )

It works by atomizing water, so the fog effect is just a very fine mist. It's fine enough that for short runs there's hardly any residue, but running it for a while leaves the tiles slightly damp.

Actually I'd recommend actual mixing cups.

Here:
https://www.amazon.com/Custom-Shop-Pack-each-calibrated/dp/B00A2F5W8S/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?keywords=silicone+metered+cups&qid=1557240559&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmr1

I used these when making dice myself to mix both the resin and silicon, and both pop right out with minimal effort. Your resign is an exothermic reaction, and will react the the styrofoam, risking both a spill and introducing imperfections. Plus, with the effort you will need to stir properly you will break styrofoam off.

For $9, it will 1000% save your project to buy proper mixing cups.

This is the plasma ball I used but I found it at a thrift store for $2.
https://www.amazon.com/Uncle-Milton-Science-Lightning-Energy/dp/B00K5OLQFE