(Part 2) Top products from r/InfinityTheGame

Things I've learned starting out:

Wash the miniatures. I found the easiest way was those little ziploc plastic containers. Warm dishsoapy water in them, throw a few minis in, scrub them with an old toothbrush, rinse them off and toss them into a second ziploc container filled with plain water. Then drain and refill that a few times to get all the soap out. Be careful you don't dump them down a drain.

Take them out of the warm fresh water and put em onto a plate with a paper towel or something to dry. I like to organize them into which model belongs to what at this point.

I invested on a sprue cutter and it has been WONDERFUL for me to remove pesky mold lines and the bigger tags sticking out of models. Also an xacto knife helps.

I got some cheap needle files from Harbor Freight and they've helped get the flash lines flush without any weirdness.

After your stuffs all pretty and moldline free I tend to toss it into a sonic cleaner because I work at a lab. It might be placebo but the industrial strength badass one at work seems to get clean and I mean... why not? But you can do the water and rinse again. Or even just do it once, after the mold line removal. (Side note: sonic cleaners are PRETTY RADICAL for removing paint from miniatures with some simple green. I love it. Saves me a lot of scrubbing.)

Anyway once its dry I personally use this glue and some stuff called green stuff to fill in gaps. Heres a tut showing the basic idea

Once they're assembled I use some good ol elmer's white glue on the bases and dip em in sand and shake them off. Tutorial that shows that

Then prime your stuff. Tons of tutorials about it and tons of everyone saying which is their favorite primer, spray or brush on, different types of primer, different brands. Some stand by Army Painter or Citadel. I've had good results with Rustoleum Ultra Cover 2x White primer. I've recently picked up some TAMIYA WHITE which I hear good things about. Trying them on some Morats tomorrow.

Lots of other good info has been posted too! I also just started probably, shit, 6 months ago, so this is stuff I've had to pick up and learn as I go.

The guy who painted those models released a book all about his process. It reads like this guide (same guy) and it mentions the paints used.

The book is good but definitely pricey if you're just looking for a paint list. You might be best off finding a user on here or the main forum who doesn't mind transcribing the lists for you, or you might have luck asking the guy directly.

It would probably help if you had a faction/group of minis in mind that you're looking for the colors of.

Oooooor don't worry too much about about matching the marketing images. I've played against several armies that were way off the faction color scheme, their owners just had fun and did what they wanted.

Tools needed to assemble minis to a very basic finish:

Dikes (side cutters, wire cutters, snips, whatever )

Cyanoacrylate glue. Super glue, Krazy glue, Hobby glue.

Hobby sand paper. Super light to medium grit stuff. Scuffing up the surface of a part can help it stick pretty decently. YOu don't necessarily need to score it with a hobby knife.

Jeweler files

These few items can get your minis looking pretty decent pre-paint. Corvus Belli delivers excellent minis, so flash and off-center molds aren't really a problem. Cleanup the sprue parts with a file and sand paper and glue it all together!

Use mild soapy warm water before gluing because the oils on your hand and such can be problematic for the glue.

Cyanoacrylate is a water-catalyzed glue. Breath on it, or dip the part in watter to flash-cure the outside portion of the glue. Breathing on it is slower. Water almost isntantly makes the glue cure when exposed.

A simple art store and a hardware store can get you serviceable tools, I think. :)

I made a list of the tools that I like to keep at my work station.

My recommended buying list for a new painter is:

Tools

• Nippers
  
• Hobby Knife
  
• Thinning Medium
  
• Glue
  
• Glue Accelerant
  
• Brush Cleaner
  
• Palette
  
  Sprays
  
  
• Primer
  ○ Grey is standard, white if you're painting a majority of light colors, and black if the majority is dark.
  
• Matte Varnish
  
  Brushes
  
  
• Brushes
  ○ Round 0
  ○ Round 1
  ○ Round 2
  
  
  All in all it should be around $60 USD for the tools and about $40 USD for the brushes. However, this list gives you every tool you will need to get started and to continue with the hobby.
  
  This is just what I like to have on hand, this does not reflect the "perfect list". I hope it helps :)

Vallejo Model Air and Game air are both good lines for airbrushing your models. If you're new to airbrushing then buying airbrush paints are probably the best way to get started, but you can also just thin down your regular paints too. I don't recommend starting by doing this as it's better to learn to control the airbrush with paint that you know should be working properly before you throw in the new variable of paint thinning.

As for airbrushes, I always recommend the Iwata Eclipse. It's both a good starter brush as well as a brush that you will continue to use as you become a more skilled airbrush artist.

For metal minis there are typically two generally types of solutions.

1. You can get foam trays from a wide variety of companies, either pluck style or with pre-made compartments. This works well, I have four ArmyTransport trays that hold two factions worth of Infinity models. There are also nice bags made to hold the trays.
   
   
2. You can glue magnets on the underside of the base and stick them to metal sheets in some sort of container (or a metal toolbox). Sometimes this may require a little creativity to figure out the best way to "stack" multiple layers of metal sheets but fortunately Infinity doesn't use a lot of minis so one sheet may last forever.
   
   For instance, I'm magnetizing my Star Wars Legion models this way.
   
   I'm using this 13x13 container with has 4" tall "levels":
   https://www.amazon.com/Snapware-Seasonal-Ornament-Storage-Container/dp/B00FXLTSI6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522936303&sr=8-1&keywords=ornament+storage+13x13
   
   I'm using this 12x12 sheet:
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000W6ZMQY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
   
   The sheet drops right in, I've secured it with some double-sided tape or you can use glue or whatever. Then I put 6x2mm magnets on the bottom of each figure. You'd want to check the Infinity bases to make sure how thick a magnet will fit the recess but basically that's the process. Metal minis are heavier so you might want a slightly bigger magnet or perhaps two smaller ones. There are probably recommendations online somewhere.
   
   It's fairly cheap, very expandable, and should be able to hold nearly any game.

https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-300087030-Masking-Tape-6mm/dp/B0000WRZZQ/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1479390004&sr=8-7&keywords=tamiya+masking+tape
Use this / they also have a tape for curves. It helps a ton and has low adherence so you don't have to worry about pulling paint up. I really enjoy the profile and the model itself looks cool to me but it's all preference. I do have to say it was the easiest tag to put together that I've done.

I use Double Sided Foam Tape. It's designed to hold stuff like mirrors on tiles so it's super strong and it's easy enough to remove from minis since all you need to do is slip a knife into the foam bit then roll off the remaining tape from the mini contact point. I usually attach it to whatever I'm going to hold on to when I paint the mini..normally a cork bung.

For smaller bits or for things that have 2 sides like a cape I use Blu-Tak (mounting putty in the USA). Forms a decent hold but lets you remove it and remount in seconds.

Maxi-Cure and then Insta-set. Dab glue with the end of a toothpick, place ear to ear-hole with tweezers/pliers/etc, ask friend to spray glue on or somehow do it yourself (I've done it myself by just laying the model on its side).

Maxi-Cure: https://www.amazon.com/Maxi-cure-extra-thick-Bob-Smith/dp/B0000DD1QH

Insta-Set: https://www.amazon.com/Bob-Smith-151-Insta-Set-Accelerator/dp/B0000DD1QR/ref=pd_sim_21_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BWSCD72426BCYAMM6H0X

Go here: http://www.caseyswood.com/shoppingcart/zen-cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=54&products_id=702

And buy ~200+ of those. It'll run you about $20.

Go to Michael's (or similar store) and buy:
http://www.amazon.com/Podge-CS11302-Original-16-Ounce-Finish/dp/B001IKES5O (note the matte finish)

and
http://www.michaels.com/darice-17-compartment-bead-organizer/10091119.html?cm_mmc=Sq1_Search-_-GooglePLA-_-Darice-_-Darice%2017%20Compartment%20Bead%20Organizer&utm_source=GooglePLA&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Darice&utm_term=Darice%2017%20Compartment%20Bead%20Organizer&utm_content=10091119&srccode=cii_17588969&cpncode=42-25094047-2

Also grab a cheap brush (you'll need it for the mod podge).

After you've printed and punched the tokens, paint a thinish layer of glue on a disc, apply the token, set aside and let it dry. Do... 50+ at a time. Do it while you watch your favorite TV show re-runs or something. Keep the tokens in vaguely first to last order. Once you've attached the last token to a disc, apply a thin layer of mod podge as a seal coat, starting with the first token you did. Apply a total of two sealing coats. Make sure they're thin and applied smoothly. Mod podge can add a texture if you brush it on that way.

Dirt cheap per token (somewhere in the neighborhood of $0.19/token) and they're nigh indestructible.

EDIT: The box is to store your tokens, by the way... I seemed to have forgotten to mention that.

I got one off Amazon after seeing it in his last painting post. I like the weight of it, mitigates some of my shakiness.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000RB547G/ref=ya_st_dp_summary

For tokens:

Print out THESE.

Cut out tokens with THIS.

Apply THESE.