(Part 2) Top products from r/MTB

Jump to the top 20

We found 91 product mentions on r/MTB. We ranked the 1,557 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.

Next page

Top comments that mention products on r/MTB:

u/political_bot · 6 pointsr/MTB

Just making sure here, but you've got a helmet right? It's nice to have a nice helmet, but use whatever you have. I find the basic Giro helmets to be plenty good enough, haven't gotten a concussion or anything yet. https://www.amazon.com/Giro-Fixture-Sport-Helmet-MATTE/dp/B075RN86Z7/ref=sr_1_15?dchild=1&qid=1574830300&refinements=p_89%3AGiro&s=outdoor-recreation&sr=1-15

Kneepads and gloves can be useful. I prefer riding without gloves, but have cut up my hands pretty bad on plants and the like when crashing. It's getting colder here though, so gloves are becoming less optional if I don't want frozen hands. I've also bashed the shit out of my knees before, I should really get some kneepads.

Do you have a way to carry water and your stuff when biking? I use a Camelback and love it https://www.camelbak.com/en/packs/bike . Don't worry about getting a fancy one, it's a backpack. An off brand one on amazon with decent reviews will do ya just fine.

5.10 's are the best shoes https://www.rei.com/product/872539/five-ten-freerider-mountain-bike-shoes-mens , but if you're just starting out a pair of tennis shoes/trainers is fine. Vans are also really good shoes, they stick to the pedals but aren't stiff like the 5.10's are. Way better than tennis shoes though, and some people prefer them to 5.10's because they bend.

A good pair of pedals isn't a bad idea. This one is all personal opinion, I run these bad boys https://www.raceface.com/products/details/chester-pedals . There's also a knockoff of them on Amazon for $20, and they work great. https://www.amazon.com/FOOKER-Composite-Mountain-High-Strength-Bikesflat/dp/B07L5RF5CW

Does the bike come with a dropper post? Cause those are awesome.

That's all I can think of. You're probably going to want to learn to fix your bike and buy the tools you need as things break. A multitool for bikes is a good starting point. The Allen keys on the tool let you adjust all sorts of stuff on the bike. You're going to need some kind of pump to keep the tires inflated. Some people are probably going to disagree with me here, but I really like doing all the work on a broken bike myself. Saves a good chunk of change.

That's all I can think of. Good luck and send it.

u/blindstuff · 4 pointsr/MTB

I never liked clipless so my opinion is biased, someone else from the clipless camp can give you a counter-argument, but, I would stick to flats, get good flats and decent shoes.

Pedals are cheap, shoes are not; since they're the main contact point to your bike, its worth the investment. Even if you change bike they'll transfer over.

Nylon pedals are nice, you don't need metal. Nukeproof Electron EVO's are my favorite platform pedal, followed very closely by the Raceface Chester; the difference between both is barely noticable imo, i just give a slight advantage to the Electrons. Either pick will work great.

As for shoes, there are many good options, the Fiveten Freerider seems to be a common favorite, I personally use the bit bulkier Impact VXi, but many people find them too bulky. In any case, you're looking for a flat, stiff sole with sticky rubber.

u/Unusual_Steak · 3 pointsr/MTB

I transitioned into working on my bikes almost entirely by myself (Wheel building/suspension service/bearings excluded) and this is the exact path I went down as well. Here is everything I bought from Amazon:

The same $50 tool kit

Torque wrench

Cable/housing/wire cutter

Chain/quick link pliers


Wet/Dry Chain lubes

Park Tool grease

Degreaser

Blue Loctite

Carbon grip paste

And some additional small things like cables, cable end caps, ferrules, zip ties, etc. A set of needle nose pliers can be handy to help push/pull stubborn cables/housings as well.

Also, to make working on the bike 10x easier, I recommend getting a stand. I use this one because I am space constrained and it folds up nice and small, but there are probably better ones out there.

It seems like a lot of $$ to lay out at first, but it pays for itself pretty quickly compared to taking the bike to a shop every time you need to do something to it. Basically everything you need to do can be found on YouTube as well.

u/Kaizmuth · 34 pointsr/MTB

I've ordered six of these lights in the past. Three immediately went back because they didn't work out of the box. They are very cheaply made and are $20 for a reason.

They are also nowhere near 1000 lumens. That's the theoretical max of the LED, not how many actual lumens it pumps out. Realistically, it's about 600-700 at most. That's still awesome for $20, but it's nowhere near 1000 lumens.

This one: http://www.amazon.com/SecurityIng%C2%AE-Waterproof-Bicycle-Lighting-Flashlight/dp/B00C2MHNJK/ref=sr_1_4?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1414784449&sr=1-4&keywords=securitying is a much better made light. I have two of them and they have a better beam pattern and have lasted a lot longer than the single beam ones. It's nowhere near 2800 lumens though. Again, that's a marketing claim based on a theoretical max.

I use the dual beam on my helmet, and the single beam with a wide beam diffuser on the handlebars. It's a great combination. The use the same battery pack, so if one dies, like it did on my last ride, then you can just swap the battery pack to the helmet.

u/earthly_wanderer · 3 pointsr/MTB

I considered buying one of those. They look awesome.

I got this since the Outbound lights were out of stock and planned on putting it on my helmet after the Outbound light came in. Instead I'm so happy with this Bright Eyes 1600 lumen that I'll just get a second one. It's plenty bright at highest and coverage was great too with the diffuser lens (included, you just have to pop it in).

The BrightEyes is $150 cheaper which helps. Two sample pics. The pics came out ever so slightly brighter than they were in real life due to a high ISO on my phone. The pics were taken on a 5 year old Nexus 6, so no fancy night shot from newer phones. It's pretty close to what I saw.

u/photonoobie · 5 pointsr/MTB

What's your budget? There's a ton of options all across the price range. The Park Tool stands are nice, but expensive. I've made a few DIY stands with varying results for a few dollars at the local home improvement store as well. This one on Amazon is $100 and gets good reviews, though I don't have any personal experience with it.

u/Kick_roxx · 2 pointsr/MTB

Not sure of your price range or overall drop your looking for, but I can say the dnm dropper post is excellent for the money. Myself and a buddy both have it on our bikes and they have been running great for over a year. I know it's not from a major manufacture, but it's a solid product.

DNM Mountain Bike Dropper Seatpost Remote Lockout 30.9x330mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BW4T5WW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_iiJjzbF6KJS5C

u/tominmaine · 3 pointsr/MTB

A LBS recommended Gorilla tape as a tubeless rim tape. You can use a large roll and make a custom size, but this pre cut 1" wide tape worked awesome on my 29" wheels. Mine have sealed up quite nice.

http://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Glue-6100101-Tape-To-Go/dp/B001E5ZWT4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409837845&sr=8-1&keywords=1+gorilla+tape

u/oliv3r · 1 pointr/MTB

I've got some semi-local rides that I can check that out on.

Will definitely check out Joe Friel's books. Thanks for the beta! :)

The books that helped me the most this year are listed below. What books, or training programs, do you recommend for someone who can get on 2-3 rides a week?



http://www.amazon.com/The-Time-Crunched-Cyclist-2nd-Ed/dp/193403083X

http://www.amazon.com/The-Feed-Zone-Cookbook-Flavorful/dp/1934030767

u/efx888 · 4 pointsr/MTB

Thanks for the review. Have you tried/compared the Feiyu Tech Wearable Gimbal? I've been pretty happy with its performance, and it's a little over a hundred bucks cheaper. Short clip from the weekend for anyone interested

The one issue I've had is that my knees and saddle occasionally bump the camera on steep downs since it sticks out from the chest a bit.

u/ric_flair_wooooooooo · 1 pointr/MTB

You can get pretty decent cheap pedals on Amazon for like $20 and try it out

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01ILX7OGA/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1502866523&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=mtb+pedals&dpPl=1&dpID=412Lmaw9tEL&ref=plSrch

Honestly, unless clipless is really really helping you... like in a race... you really aren't getting much from it in recreational riding. You don't have anything to lose by getting some flats and putting on some shoes. Being able to "move around" isn't always a bad thing, not really. If your shoes/foot position is causing you problems you might find it helpful to be able to adjust on the fly or shake it out etc. You can always go back. With good pins the shoes don't always make a lot of difference, I use skate shoes but I've rode in vans or even running shoes and it was fine too, all day rides.

u/HungryMandrew · 1 pointr/MTB

Cheap plug kit

Also, if you are unaware, the issue with running tubeless is that if you get a flat, it can be very hard/impossible to re-seat the tire bead with a hand pump, especially a travel pump. So you always need to have an innertube incase you get a flat. For your house pump, if you dont have a compressor, make sure you get a higher volume pump like the topeak joe blow mountain, or even better, something that has a charge cylinder.

u/tenthjuror · 2 pointsr/MTB

A friend told me that he has had good luck with these Bright Eyes when I asked him what he used. One on the bar and one on the helmet.

u/niceandblue42 · 1 pointr/MTB

I use this on my handlebars:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X90ZYJ0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

and this on my helmet:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IHIMJRS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

The Shenkey is great and you could honestly just get two for helmet/handlebars

u/sircaseyjames · 0 pointsr/MTB

You can get these RF Chester knock offs on Amazon for like half the cost. Just as good honestly if not better.

u/Hemlohk · 3 pointsr/MTB

What kind of pedals do you have installed? I wear my running shoes too and went from stock plastic pedals to very grippy pedals like: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018J1J7QE/ref=twister_B01EONZSAA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1. The change in sticking to the pedals has made a world of difference when on the trail and skills like bunny hops etc. (I'm planning on updating my shoes too in the future, but I'm not in a rush since I feel comfortable on the new pedals.)

u/blip01 · 5 pointsr/MTB

Probably the Halo. It's pretty awesome

Halo II Headband Sweatband Pullover Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002JS64LU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qZZMBbP588605

u/Quinnatator · 1 pointr/MTB

Ahhh... Facepalm. Thanks for the note, post is fixed.

Good suggestion as well! There's apparently an aluminum version which is $10 more.

u/rmanalan · 1 pointr/MTB

I've converted 2 pairs of non-tubeless rims with tubeless tires using plain ole Gorilla tape -- the 1" size fits most rims perfectly -- and Stans sealant. Next time I do it though, I'd like to try the Orange sealant. Both pairs of tires work great. No need for a special kit.

u/YoJungB · 1 pointr/MTB

These: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01ILX7OGA/ref=pd_aw_sim_468_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=CZY6MY0Y59XKQ1KVKCG6&dpPl=1&dpID=71g6YyE%2BY0L

Like I said, they look just like the race face chesters and have held up to pretty aggressive riding from my 210 lbs.

u/DifficultBoss · 8 pointsr/MTB

Halo headbands are pretty sweet. Amazon
It has a silicone band across it to keep sweat from dripping down

u/yur_mom · 2 pointsr/MTB

That is a loaded question. It depends on the parts you will be torquing since it is highly unlikely you will find one torque wrench that covers all ranges. I personally have a bunch and my favorite brand is the Wera 1-25nm, but they are expensive. I would probably just get the this for lower torque values since it does 2-24nm https://www.amazon.com/VENZO-Bicycle-Torque-Wrench-Socket/dp/B00811WQT8/ref=sr_1_12?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1485446361&sr=1-12&keywords=torque+wrench


and then if you want to do cranks and cassettes you may need a larger one.

u/caniscream · 1 pointr/MTB

I doubt it. I think they're about $50 USD usually. I don't think I've ever seen them below $40

I know my buddy runs a knock off pair on his hard tail and has had pretty good luck with them. I think they were called "Fooker" brand pedals. An amazon search shows they're $20 and appear to be an exact replica of RF Chesters. No idea how they will hold up to repeated abuse but might be worth a try if you can't do some extra stuff around the house to earn the extra credit with the parents.

Link: https://www.amazon.com/FOOKER-Composite-Mountain-High-Strength-Bikesflat/dp/B07L5RF5CW

u/textual_predditor · 1 pointr/MTB

I've had great luck with these, and they're dirt cheap: Imrider Lightweight Polyamide Bike Pedals For BMX Road MTB Bicycle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ILX7OGA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SB9RCbA668B04

u/ChristophColombo · 1 pointr/MTB

I have this one. Works pretty well, though the price has almost doubled since I bought it. Iirc, I paid $60 for it.

u/steveh250 · 3 pointsr/MTB

I'd second the time crunched program - using a slightly modified version of the commuter program blended with the MTB program and it has been awesome.

http://www.amazon.ca/Time-Crunched-Cyclist-2nd-Ed-Powerful/dp/193403083X/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1396165978&sr=8-1&keywords=time+crunched+cyclist

u/Obvious666 · 4 pointsr/MTB

Oh ok, what about something like this?

u/jojotherider · 1 pointr/MTB

I went a similar route and have had plenty of success. I picked up these two:

Helmet - https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00C2MHNJK/
Helmet mount - https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B004QOVA00
bars - https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00BJCDH3K

Here's a video with me just using the helmet light. My friend was using my bar light on medium power:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9sL3s3XkONQ

I think we were out there for 3 hours and I made it through just fine. I would drop the power to its lowest setting for any sustained climbs and then power up when things went downhill.

u/051r1s · 1 pointr/MTB

If no one has said it already, they sell some stuff called [Cat Crap](http://www.amazon.com/Cat-Crap-Lens-Cleaner-Anti-Fog/dp/B002ZNA488
/),
warm it up a little in a microwave and then rub it in with your fingers onto your lenses. Buff it out until you can't see it anymore (with a lens cleaning cloth) and it will work like a charm

u/phirebug · 3 pointsr/MTB

I got this one from amazon for $100 shipped (it's 90 now) and i'm pretty happy with it. it did have an issue with holding it's rotational position, but i just wrapped a bungee around the handle, and it not only fixed it, but now it's self-closing.

u/Namenotwanted · 2 pointsr/MTB

I bought this one off amazon and found it worked great for my Guide RS brakes: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SFSF5EK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I initially had the cheaper SRAM bleed kit and had trouble with it leaking air into the system. I didn't want to shell out the money for the SRAM professional kit and the one from amazon appears to have similar syringes to the pro kit.

u/buhlot · 1 pointr/MTB

I'm thinking of pulling the trigger on this kit, and buying the "Frequently bought together" bundle. My brakes are internally routed so I need to do it either way, I guess.

I also have no other experience on bike brakes other than my hardtail so I don't know how to accurately describe the feeling. The way you describe it as sponginess is how mine feel as well. Kinda feels like there's a dead spot the first few mm, then light braking then almost OTB. I guess I want more feathering? I dunno.

I think I'm gonna try better pads first then bleed. If those two fail. New brakes for me!

Good luck!

u/spacejunk95 · 1 pointr/MTB

I can help, I was just in the same situation and got this $20 light from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/SecurityIng-Waterproof-Lighting-Headlight-Rechargeable/dp/B00C2MHNJK

It's got a long enough battery life for evening rides (I tested 3hrs on full brightness under ideal conditions)
It's bright enough alone, but I'm probably gonna get a second to mount on the bars for redundancy's sake. It appears pretty sturdy but quality is still a gamble given how cheap it is. I'm not too worried, I'm a diy person and don't mind fixing things that go wrong, just all as long as I'm prepared with a backup in case something goes wrong on a ride.

u/PM_ME_YOUR_BlCYCLE · 2 pointsr/MTB

Good stuff! Consider purchasing a chain wear indicator so that you'll be able to see when it's time to replace the chain in the future.

Worn down chains are actually a larger issue than you might think because they cause uneven stress and wear upon you cassette and chainrings, which causes them to wear faster as well.

Good riding!

u/FountainbIker · 10 pointsr/MTB

https://www.amazon.com/Bright-Eyes-WATERPROOF-Rechargeable-Headlight/dp/B00X90ZYJ0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1506545184&sr=8-3&keywords=bright+eyes+bike+light

Get two, one for bars and one for helmet. Spot on the helmet, diffuser on the bars. You'll want a better mount for your helmet light, which depends on your helmet, some manufacturers (Smith) make camera/light mounts.

u/_photogeek_ · 4 pointsr/MTB

Wellgo MG-1 and Odyssey Twisted BMX pedals in come in white. Might not be quite what you are looking for though. The Odyssey are well regarded as BMX pedals (I have them on my 24" cruiser), but they are all plastic. The Wellgo have metal pins and seem well reviewed, but I've never used them.

u/jewpowered · 1 pointr/MTB

FYI this light is amazing, light and small for the money, I wouldn't rate it over 2k lumens but, thats plenty

SecurityIng® 4 Modes Waterproof 2800 Lumens Cree XM-L U2 LED Bicycl... http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C2MHNJK/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_zstktb0TH90M6

u/KISSOLOGY · 1 pointr/MTB

Looking at Flat pedals considering a few different models and need advice on which one is the best.

SHIMANO SAINT

CRANK BROTHERS 50/50

CHESTER PLATFORM


XPEDO SPRY

Bonmixc Mountain Bike Pedals

Origin8 Ultim8 Slimline Platform Pedals

The last two are a bit less expensive but they look decent. I am aware that typically you get what you pay for. I've seen the Shimano Saint in store and the CrankBro in store. Xpedo SPRY seems to have reviews too

u/CloggyDutch · 1 pointr/MTB

Here's my list:

First Aid Kit - just handy: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B001MEY964?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

Some sort of sunglasses / windglasses: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000W4CSU4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

Bike maintenance book: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/097655304X?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00

Mastering mountain bike skills book: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/0736083715?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00

Arse saver pants: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00CWVP9YC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00

Cheap lights: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00B77SGEC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

Tool kit: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B009VYB87A?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

Shorts: http://www.tenn-outdoors.co.uk/protean-waterproof-mtb-shorts-blackcyan-medium

Also:

Inner tubes,
Spare chain,
Chain tool,
Gloves,
Helmet,
Water bottle and cage,
Decent pedals (AND shoes)(http://www.reddit.com/r/MTB/comments/10hc9h/clipless_vs_platforms/c6dugvi),
Strava App,
Decent bag, maybe a camelback one or one with spine protection?

And lastly: A willingness to get muddy regularly. With that in mind, keep your bike clean! No pressure washing, just a hose and a brush, and some stuff. I got this kit free with my LBS membership: http://www.leisurelakesbikes.com/p/8332/vip-membership-with-free-kit

That's it. All you really need is your bike!

u/Stucardo · 3 pointsr/MTB

I have this one and it's good so far. I think the nashbat wrench is probably decent quality too

VENZO Bicycle Bike Torque Wrench Allen Key Tool Socket Set Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00811WQT8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_hD4gAb17GQC54

u/TheAceMan · 2 pointsr/MTB

I use this one:

DNM Mountain Bike Dropper Seatpost Remote Lockout 30.9x330mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BW4T5WW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_NgeRwb648F1DH

It is awesome for the price but does not route internally.

u/DIDDLY_HOLE_PUNCH · 1 pointr/MTB

I've had this light for 6 months and like it for mostly XC stuff

u/linux_vegan · 1 pointr/MTB

There are also some knockoff chesters on Amazon. They perform pretty much the same, but are significantly cheaper. https://www.amazon.com/FOOKER-Composite-Mountain-High-Strength-Bikesflat/dp/B07L5RF5CW

u/InsaneInTheDrain · 1 pointr/MTB

Kona Wah-Wahs

RaceFace Chesters

One-Up Composites

All ~$50 or less, you won't be disappointed with any of them

u/wa11yba11s · 4 pointsr/MTB

Start with The Big Blue Book its got all the basics.

Also Park Tool's YouTube feed has a great deal of in depth instructions.

Also go to the manufacturer of your bike and of components such as shocks and brakes and download their service manuals. You can get basic instructions for general stuff but you'll need the real service instructions for things that vary wildly like shocks.

u/robbyking · 16 pointsr/MTB

Older Redditors are probably sick of hearing me say this but…

If you want to get faster, start a structured training program and stick with it. For what it's worth, I've noticed that there are a few different types of riders in each race, and they all finish in the order you'd expect:

  • Those who just ride hard a few days a week without any structure.
  • Those who "train" a few days a week, without much structure other than "endurance rides on Day X, sprints on Day Y, etc."
  • Those who follow a specific training program over the course of a season, and time their training so they'll peak during the weeks of their "A" races. (The races they're targeting to win the most.)

    Needless to say, the riders in the third group win almost every event they enter, with the members of the second group finished in the chase group behind them.

    Unfortunately, I wasted my first two seasons of racing in the first group. If you don't have a ton of time to train (6+ hours a day), try the Time Crunched Training Program. Even though it's for people who are "time crunched," you still train 2-3 times during the week, and usually on both weekend days.

    By week three you'll be faster, and you peak around weeks 12-14.
u/All_Purpose · 2 pointsr/MTB

I have one of these and I was able to store two bikes in my room without problems.

u/aedrin · 2 pointsr/MTB

I purchased this kit and have been really pleased with it:

http://www.amazon.com/VENZO-Bicycle-Torque-Wrench-Socket/dp/B00811WQT8

Assembled a carbon mountain bike with it and have had no problems. It's worth having quality tools.

u/toomuchdolphin · 3 pointsr/MTB

in that case,

https://www.amazon.com/Big-Blue-Book-Bicycle-Repair/dp/097655304X/

that and youtube. everything you need to learn can be found on youtube once you have the right terminology (which the park tool book can provide)

u/plztofix · 1 pointr/MTB

I used this one for similar purpose in a small apartment. Leans against the wall, but has rubber on the contact point to keep it from making marks.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ACAM38/ref=asc_df_B000ACAM385111325/

u/SourCreamWater · 1 pointr/MTB

Get a set of these Fooker pedals off Amazon.

They come in tons of colors and are basically identical to Raceface Chesters but cost less than half. I have a set of both and cannot tell a difference.

u/UnrealSquare · 2 pointsr/MTB

I haven't personally used any of these products but maybe this Top Vertical Stand, Bike Nook Stand, Double Vertical, or Gravity Stand would work?

u/groghunter · 3 pointsr/MTB

$40 at most, & that's buying enough sealant for several wheels. Oh, & add the cost of a roll of 1" gorilla tape. http://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-6100101-Tape-To-Go/dp/B001E5ZWT4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463517450&sr=8-1&keywords=1+gorilla+tape

u/waywardpoet · 1 pointr/MTB

Try the [Halo] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002JS64LU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_znduzb7Y8E7CK) it has a yellow band thingee that pushes sweat to the outside. Its been working for me and I live in Arizona.

u/sonsue · 1 pointr/MTB

I just ordered these the other day. When I asked a similar question they were the recommendation I got. I can't vouch for the yet though.

u/yogiscott · 1 pointr/MTB

Any thoughts on this one or know anyone that runs it? dnm dropper

u/phenger · 2 pointsr/MTB

What you ran into on the trail is why I have one of these guys in my kit when I go riding (just in case the sealant doesn't quite hold it) https://smile.amazon.com/Genuine-Innovations-Tubeless-Plug-Patch/dp/B00B139BA0

Long term, I'd still patch the tire, but I'm probably a more conservative rider.

u/derpdrew · 8 pointsr/MTB

I'm riding with a GoPro 3+ as the camera and a Feiyu WG 3 axis Gimbal.

u/vanhellion · 2 pointsr/MTB

Spend the money on the Park Tool BBB. Everything you will ever need to know about repairing your bike, and it will practically pay for itself each and every time you need to fix something (no more labor costs from the LBS).

u/milliken · 1 pointr/MTB

check out http://www.amazon.com/The-Time-Crunched-Cyclist-2nd-Ed/dp/193403083X

if you haven't had a structured training plan yet, you will benefit from any training plan, probably. a lot of people will just say ride more, but there was a video that i saw recently suggesting that the idea of base training was questionable. video seemed credible but can't find it right now.

u/Deep_Friar · 2 pointsr/MTB

> How much rim tape do you have on your wheel?

Redoing the tape normally is how I fix a tire that wont seat. I use Gorrila tape specifically this 1" wide version. No cutting necessary! Quick note, if your internal rim width is larger then 35mm you will need a wider piece of tape. Go all the way around twice and you should be good! Sounds weird but I redo my rim tape each time I change tires, which means every 3-4 months. In my non scientific opinion, older tape compresses which makes it easier for your tire to burp and makes it hard to seat. So even if you are not changing tires, once you start to have problems with psi, it might be time to retape.

u/marcoaml78 · 8 pointsr/MTB

i live in a studio and i have 4 bikes on two of these https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ACAM38/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My bikes are part of the deco, i made room specifically for them, people know i'm a cyclist and the bikes don't look the least bit off. No way i'd leave them anywhere else.

u/Larrymer · 3 pointsr/MTB

Imrider Lightweight Polyamide Bike Pedals For BMX Road MTB Bicycle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ILX7OGA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Yi9RCbSSPR7JP

These are what I use and have no complaints. The bearings probably aren't as good but otherwise they're grippy.

u/gzSimulator · 1 pointr/MTB

It came with a little wrench thing that I never found out what it’s used for. I also didn’t change the brake hoses (that’s the bolt you’re referring to right?) and didn’t need to adjust the banjo bolt. I think this is what I got

https://www.amazon.com/West-Biking-Professional-Hydraulic-Ultimate/dp/B00SFSF5EK/ref=mp_s_a_1_3

Edit: sorry I’m still not completely used to our internally-routed overlords, I now realize that obviously brake hose replacement is needed to remove your freaking brakes off your bike in 2019

u/slccsoccer28 · 1 pointr/MTB

Same thing here. Bought a $6 pair of safety glasses from Home Depot and threw some Cat Crap on them to keep from from fogging. My only complaint is the lens don't come low enough so I occasionally get fling up from the tire.


BTW, this is Cat Crap: http://www.amazon.com/EK-10003C-Cat-Crap/dp/B002ZNA488

u/andrewcooke · 11 pointsr/MTB

i bought one of these on a recommendation here, but haven't got to use it due to injury. but anyway, that's what's come up before in discussion.

u/kake14 · 1 pointr/MTB

Thank you and /u/ChristophColombo for the responses. I didn't even think about being able to transfer those things to another bike which is a really good point.

I went with the bike I did because it had the best drive train I could find (full X5) but sacrificed hydraulics for it. The mechs it came with just aren't adjustable at all, rub badly, and make a hell of a noise. So they aren't really limiting per-say, just annoying.

The fork is something I want as well but that probably wouldn't be as wise of a purchase. I'm looking at Wellgo MG-1's for pedals and SRAM DB5's for brakes (Elixir 5 replacements). I've heard the shimano deore M615's are better but that was just a few comments on an article.

u/PresidentEstimator · 1 pointr/MTB

re: Sizing,
Everyone's different. Go to your local bike shop and try sitting on a medium and a large of a brand's line, then try those on another brand. You're generally on the cusp of a large, which as far as I know most people, in general, recommend going a size up if you're on that cusp. All depends on your reach, etc.

People below are saying to go with the Meta. I disagree for one major reason: dropper posts are present on the other two. This is a $200-300 upgrade that I would argue is the next biggest thing since rear suspension. Additionally, the drivetrains on the Giants are all 1x's which I would also prefer. You're also looked at tapered tubes for the Giants, which is the new industry standard for forks. The 2015 is locked into a somewhat old paradigm.

Nevermind crossed out text from above, looks like it has a routed dropper, but still appears to have a 2x drivetrain?

Go with either Fantom. I'd suggest going to try riding the large first, then try the medium to see if you feel 'restricted.'

Someone please argue all my points. :D

Edit : /u/letsplaypsvr made a very valuable point about buying new, I think one of the major things to look at is the chain wear. Buy a small tool for cheap that measures chain wear for 1x10-11 and take it with you to check out the bikes. If the chain's not been changed when it should've, it may have damaged the drive train to the point that a new chain would degrade hyperquickly and cause even more damage to the drive train.. this is yet again.. another $200ish in parts/time/tools. If you can identify that the drive train's shot and needs replacing, you could always haggle way down.