(Part 3) Top products from r/MTB

The brakes are probably pre bled. You will probably have to cut the cables to proper length though. If you are careful it can be done without needing a bleed, but its a good idea to have a bleed kit. If you ride often, you will probably want to bleed every 3 to 6 months anyways.

Also, you will want some good grease. This park tools stuff is good and can be used for headset and bb.
https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-PPL-1-Polylube-Grease/dp/B000NORVHI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466124475&sr=8-1&keywords=park+tools+grease

Bleed kit like this would get you started if you have Shimano brakes.
https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Brake-Bleed-Kit-Mineral/dp/B00F4LCS5A/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1466124626&sr=8-2&keywords=shimano+bleed+kit

Edit: also, I noticed your comment below about making a headset press from a threaded rod and some washers. I do this. Used it to press in a couple headsets, and a press fit bottom bracket. Worked great and costs like $10.

I transitioned into working on my bikes almost entirely by myself (Wheel building/suspension service/bearings excluded) and this is the exact path I went down as well. Here is everything I bought from Amazon:

The same $50 tool kit

Torque wrench

Cable/housing/wire cutter

Chain/quick link pliers


Wet/Dry Chain lubes

Park Tool grease

Degreaser

Blue Loctite

Carbon grip paste

And some additional small things like cables, cable end caps, ferrules, zip ties, etc. A set of needle nose pliers can be handy to help push/pull stubborn cables/housings as well.

Also, to make working on the bike 10x easier, I recommend getting a stand. I use this one because I am space constrained and it folds up nice and small, but there are probably better ones out there.

It seems like a lot of $$ to lay out at first, but it pays for itself pretty quickly compared to taking the bike to a shop every time you need to do something to it. Basically everything you need to do can be found on YouTube as well.

1. I'd replace that plastic strip with actual tape. I'd recommend gorilla tape. Carefully apply it around the perimeter of the rim then poke a small hole for a valve stem to fit through. Leave room for the tire bead to fit around the inner wall of the rim.
   
   
2. Is your rim drilled for presta or schrader valves? If it's presta then buy a presta valve stem, or if it's drilled for schrader, then buy a schrader valve stem. Your alternative is to do "ghetto tubeless" by cutting the stem out of a tube and using that as a stem instead.
   
   
3. Get a pair of tubeless ready tires. If you are on a budget, I'd recommend these. They've never had a problem seating for me and are very good tires for the money on my 29er. If they have difficulty seating on your rim, try spraying the bead with soapy water. You must use compressed air to seat the bead.
   
   
4. Yes use sealant, I'd recommend Stan's. The bottle provides the amount recommended.

The short answer is: It depends.

Any rim can be sealed off at the spoke holes with rim tape if you clean it thoroughly and use the right width of tape.

The tricky part is how well the tire will seat at the bead. Stan's Rims and Spank are two rim manufacturers that I know take extra care with this area (and I think simply use a slightly larger diameter at this critical point) so that tires will seal well without much latex milk being needed to help.

You can do a simple test on the cheap. Buy the 3M equivalent of Stan's expensive rim tape like this one and buy or borrow a tubeless valve like this one. Put your existing tire on without a tube, using just a little bit of soapy water. If it pops in and inflates, you're good to go.

Maybe someone has experience with your rim type. I swear by tubeless, and so far have tried on Stan's Flow and FlowEX, Spank Spike 35 and Oozy Trail 345, and a couple of sets of made in China carbon rims, and it has always worked well.

The much bigger issue IMO is the type of tire. Schwalbe was the company that started with the "tubeless ready" slogan, which I guess involves having a little more rubber on the bead to help with sealing, Conti used to be stupidly difficult but have also improved especially with the Apex sidewall, Maxxis always worked well. These are the ones I have personally tried.

I've recently started making my own food. So far it's great. Easy enough to make and, most importantly, working very well for me out on rides.

I highly recommend this book, which is full of recipes for this exact thing.

http://www.amazon.com/Feed-Zone-Portables-On-Go/dp/1937715000

I've got the Recon Silver TK, but replaced the damper with the Motion Controll of the Argyle.
Works great for me, but the Motion Controll is a bit larger than the original damper, so you can't use about 10mm.
But you can extend the travell to 20 mm by taking out the spacer (page 15)
https://sram-cdn-pull-zone-gsdesign.netdna-ssl.com/cdn/farfuture/BtRI-fZQaQfTJijnIsbNEA04QJAQL0ilYpvL2wZnIgQ/mtime:1372788151/sites/default/files/techdocs/2011-recon-silver-technical-manual.pdf

Performance is like the Reba, a bit heavier, therefore a lot cheaper.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003RLDVXW/ref=cm_sw_r_oth_api_X2vpzbEQFKKZ8

This one should work too.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003RLDVXW/ref=cm_sw_r_oth_api_X2vpzbEQFKKZ8

I carry a spare tube, but I also carry these: https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Innovations-G2650-Tubeless-Repair/dp/B000P1RP48

If I am going pretty light and not going crazy far, I just carry those and don't carry a tube. They are so fast to use and not even close to as messy as putting a tube in. You don't have you to take off your tire at all and they are very cheap. When you use them, just make sure you get both holes plugged if there are two (there usually are, one on the top and one near the bead).

I have been running tubeless for a number of years now. Last year I went through about 8 rear tires - each with multiple pinch flats - and I was running (more than) enough pressure. This happened to basically all the tires I tried that weren't DH tires (Exo casings, Schwalbe enduro casings, E13 TRS casing) . For some reason the tire I have on there now has been doing pretty well, which is a Minion DHR2w 2.4.

My point in say all of that is this - carry something with you (carry a tube or at least some tire plugs).

I don't have allergies but I do have sensitive digestion and am the queen of the trailside hurl from the wrong sort of snacks. My go to is potatoes -- a baked potato, cut into pieces and sprinkled with salt. Easy to digest carbs and it always stays down. I've been known to pack roasted potatoes, hash browns, etc., as well.

Another good portable "real food" snack is rice -- I cook sushi rice (the sticky kind), press it into a pan, then you can add whatever you want in the middle (fruit, Sun butter, bacon, bananas, whatever) and press more rice on top. Wrap in individual foil packets -- another easy-to-digest carby snack. I got the recipe from the Feed Zone Portables book (it has a lot of good "real food" trail snacks):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1937715000/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Just false, safety glasses come in quite a variety.

Edit: I'm riding with hardware store safety glasses in Japan... 95% humidity enough?

Literally hundreds of options

Dewalt DPG55-11C Clear Anti-Fog Protective Safety Glasses with Dual-Injected Rubber Frame and Temples https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RKS07I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_i.oaBb1SBFBM2

Lots of us, myself included, have droppers on our hardtails.

It's a great thing to have, I won't go back to fixed.

DNM makes a very inexpensive model that has a remote release and can be stopped at any height. I'm extremely hard on my gear, and it's working perfectly fine after a season of abuse, so I'd say it's a great value compared to the other higher priced options.

2011 Salsa El Mariachi. List of specs here. The only upgrade I made was clipless pedals. I love this bike and I'd be happy to answer any questions about it though I admit I'm a bit of an MTB newb.

I have Shimanos, but I think the process is similar the fluid is just different. Here's the kit I bought:

Shimano Brake Bleed Kit with Mineral Oil https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F4LCS5A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_DIJUBb8V4W6FG

Having the syringe was super helpful and I'm not sure that was included with the factory kit

In southern WI there are just those weeks where it is unsafe. Any time the actual temperature for the day is below 0 I opt to ride in doors and drive to work.

Above 0 having a good pair of winter biking shoes and full equipment makes it completely doable, though you will be slower.

The biggest issue most people face is fogging glasses. I picked up some anti fog construction glasses that work well, though I bought multiple pairs because after 10-15 rides and constantly wiping them the anti-fog is basically gone.

Some people have had luck with Mountain Climbing glasses, but I just can't justify $200-$300 on a pair of glasses that may work.

OP, I don't suggest biking in everything but if it is a nice 20-30 degree day get some gear and enjoy the outdoors.

Indoor trainer I bought - Trainer

Anti fog glasses - Glasses

Bike Shoes - Shoes

My setup.


Light, get 2: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GJZ015Y

Kit for helmet: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004QOVA00

Wide angle lens: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004WLCLQY

Put one on your helmet. Put the wide angle lens one on your bars, means when you turn it has less effect on what you can see.

I've had no problem with battery life, but my night rides do tend to be a bit shorter, in the 90 minute range. Use half strength during the climb, full strength on the down.

While this can't fix the existing scratches, if you are serious about protecting your frame then consider applying some helicopter/racer tape to the most vulnerable areas.

It's basically a thick version of protective films they use on electronic screens. UV stable and can take a beating. Bonus is that it peels off without hassle or marks. A lot of the guys in my area use it to protect their carbon frames. Just clean the application area well with alcohol before putting the tape on.

http://www.amazon.com/ISC-Racerstape-com-Paint-surface-guard/dp/B000TPC7HU

This is what I do. I wear something like this but there are tons of options like these or these. I wear my "nice" sunglasses off my bike and then I don't have to worry about breaking/scratching anything.

I got the bleed kit from this guy, and it's been fine with keeping my XTs running smooth. Just start doing some YouTube research, like all of us other "YouTube mechanics" 😁

Shimano Brake Bleed Kit with Mineral Oil https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F4LCS5A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KOz4Ab289WVJ3

http://www.amazon.com/Allen-Deluxe-3-Bike-2-Inch-Receiver/dp/B001M4KXDM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1367806648&sr=8-1&keywords=Allen+bike+rack

AWESOME!

You can carry a spare tube/CO2/Lever rolled up and velcro strapped to your seat rails, or wedge it under your toptube where it meets your downtube and secure it with a velcro strap. I recommend a side of bacon as well.

Make it go completely flat first to make it easy and pry a section of the tire away then just squirt sealant in. Get yourself a couple of these to make it easy.

Crap, almost forgot about this. This book is your friend. My wife makes lots of these as well and when she does, they're way better than pre-packaged bars and what not.

Feed Zone Portables

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1937715000/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=mrtonka-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=1937715000&linkId=030e101b9c299543c804c8224a6cf185

Amazon has always been good to me. This $18 light is unbelievable.

CREE XML XM-L T6 LED Bike Bicycle Light HeadLight HeadLamp 1200LM Red by Cree http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008KUXRAW/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_Z4I7tb0NX42EC

Chinese lights pretty much all helmet mount like this:

http://www.amazon.com/MagicShine-Helmet-Mount-Kit/dp/B004QOVA00

The only one I know of offhand that doesn't mount like that is so huge it's not a feasible helmet light. (Fluxient U2X3)

The Recon Silver would be a great fork for this bike. You can even toss in a new damper for even more control.

http://www.amazon.com/RockShox-MotionControl-damper-07-09-Argyle/dp/B003RLDVXW

I went a similar route and have had plenty of success. I picked up these two:

Helmet - https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00C2MHNJK/
Helmet mount - https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B004QOVA00
bars - https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00BJCDH3K

Here's a video with me just using the helmet light. My friend was using my bar light on medium power:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9sL3s3XkONQ

I think we were out there for 3 hours and I made it through just fine. I would drop the power to its lowest setting for any sustained climbs and then power up when things went downhill.

Noticeable stretch. How are you computing this "noticeable" stretch? Are you using a chainwear tool?

Dusty conditions = dry lube. Dry as possible. I recommend Rock & Roll Extreme.

Even with cleaning and lubrication you will replace the chain. And yes, worn chains (those past 75%) will start to wear the cassette, and then the chainrings once the chain goes past 100%. I wouldn't be concerned with derailer cogs.

Sorry I can't answer your question but I have one for you.

I just bought a this light on Amazon. How do people mount their light to their helmet? My helmet isn't flat so I can't use a GoPro style sticky mount because the ridges in the helmet design won't allow it to sit flat. I'm assuming drilling into the helmet compromises its integrity.

Personally, I'd say stick with a reputable u-lock and pair it with a cable lock for the wheels. A good u-lock oughta require electric rotary tools to get through, and make a ton of noise and take some time. Remember with security locks, it's not a matter of can it be broken but how long it takes.

I like this set: Kryptonite Kryptolok Series 2 Standard Bicycle U-Lock with Transit FlexFrame Bracket (4-inch x 9-inch) with 4-Foot Flex Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005YPK8G2/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_sMdAwb63BQ9BD

I used this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K2PFH5Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and have been happy with it so far.

FWIW I’ve been super happy with this dropper that’s now selling for under $150. No problems whatsoever. I’ve had it about a year and have not added air since the first install.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K2PFH5Q

lube for your chain? this stuff is under $8 shipped

http://www.amazon.com/Rock-N-Roll-Gold-Chain-Lube-4oz/dp/B000QU8CGI/

grease for most other parts of your bike? this stuff is $6.25, but if you have more time than money, look into getting some marine grease from a sailing store- it's supposed to be the same price for like 5 times as much

http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-PPL-1-Polylube-Grease/dp/B000NORVHI/

I was just reading this review on Amazon and it looks like that lock can be cut with bolt cutters. I'd go for the higher end kryptonite locks, like this one

This 3M tape? I got a roll at Lowe's for a bunch cheaper and it has worked very well. It is the same product as this stuff and applies the same way: adheres to itself without adhesive and cures into a single solid piece

https://www.amazon.com/DNM-Mountain-Bicycle-Seatpost-31-6x330mm/dp/B00K2PFH5Q/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_468_bs_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=HJJBTTJSNH0D92HW0R6R

DNM for the money has good reviews and i know Seth bike hacks use one.

I had one of these. Worked Great. Not the same, but same price range and functionality.

Core removal tool - http://amzn.com/B001S98NLU
Syringe - http://amzn.com/B002WY12PO

I know a lot of folks like to put in sealant by unseating the tire and pouring it in directly, but I kind of like pulling the core and using the syringe. BTW those are direct links to the product and not affiliate links.

Some people say to just use plyers but I prefer to have the tool so I don't slip and damage the wheel/spokes or malform the core by squeezing too hard and twisting.

The shape of the frame seems like it could be a complication, not just for locking it up with a u-lock, but also with attaching a bracket to carry the lock while riding. For example, this lock comes with a mounting bracket that seems designed for road bikes.

Just finished taping up my new bike about 2 hours ago.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000TPC7HU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Used that stuff. Never really bothered before other than the chain stay to protect it from chain slap but new bike is carbon and pricey. It went on easy using the soapy water method. Only real issue I have is it is glossy and the frame is matte so it is fairly obvious. I also used some 3m 2228 mastic tape in areas it would be a pita to use the other stuff and more likely to take heavy hits.

Shorts with liner, gloves, multi-tool, spare inner-tube, and maybe a pair of glasses, a set of tire levers, pump or C02, and a wicking T-shirt from any retailer.

That's what I started out with at least.

When you pick up your new chain, also pick up a chain checker. Replace when the chain gets to .75 slack... http://amzn.com/B000BR3LHQ

https://www.amazon.com/Tubes-Presta-Universal-Carded-Mountain/dp/B004YIE294/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497667098&sr=8-1&keywords=stans+valves

Have to find the one specifically for your style of slider/stanchion inner diameter. I believe this is the one:

https://www.amazon.com/RockShox-MotionControl-damper-07-09-Argyle/dp/B003RLDVXW

Try this:

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotch-Moisture-Sealing-Electrical/dp/B001B1AP3O/ref=sr_1_11?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1463704357&sr=1-11&keywords=3m+electrical+tape

Some Presta valves have removable cores. I know my Kenda tubes have removable cores.

http://www.amazon.com/NoTubes-AS0015-Core-Remover-Tool/dp/B001S98NLU

Everyone knows you need Pedro's.

This is the stuff I use:

http://www.amazon.com/ISC-Racerstape-com-Paint-surface-guard/dp/B000TPC7HU?

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Innovations-G2650-Tubeless-Repair/dp/B000P1RP48/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525134567&sr=8-1&keywords=mountain+bike+tire+plugs

Get some electrolyte solution to add to your water. I use this...

https://www.amazon.com/LyteShow-Electrolyte-Concentrate-Rehydration-Magnesium/dp/B00EISFBYA/ref=sr_1_1_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1497145072&sr=8-1&keywords=electrolyte%2Bsolution&th=1

No flavoring. Makes a huge different in the desert, used to get crazy muscle cramps and other issues before using it.

Shimano PD-M520L MTB SPD Pedals with Cleats https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000WYAENC/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_tZRNub0A6ZMNZ

On sale for $36

4.5 stars 400+ reviews.

Don't do a combo. They won't be grippy enough for flats.

https://www.amazon.com/Race-Face-Chester-Pedal-Purple/dp/B018J1IX3C/ref=sr_1_3?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1502130991&sr=1-3&keywords=raceface+chester

https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-PD-M520-Clipless-Pedals-White/dp/B000WYAENC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1502131024&sr=8-2&keywords=shimano%2Bclipless%2Bmountain%2Bbike%2Bpedals&th=1&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-CC-3-2-Chain-Indica/dp/B000BR3LHQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1377578171&sr=8-4&keywords=chain+checker+tool

They exist, but until this happened, I'd never needed a Presta one.

I'm looking into a hitch bike rack. I have a 2014 Trek 3500 and a 1999 GMC Sierra.

I've been looking at this one. Its in my price range. I'm not too sure what to look for. Is this a good rack? Any suggestions?

anyone know of / used LyteShow off of amazon? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EISFBYA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A55YYCMFG8SKC

reviews well.. affordable. added it to a race face chester pedal order... i've been working on pushing myself for longer rides, and i had a bad time on a recent outing. i've added a water bottle to my bike, and also wear a pack w/ ~2l bladder. i try to eat a bannana during each ride too. i want to try an electrolyte mix in my bottle, and carry 1/2 to 1l of straight h2o on my back. flavor is not important, 'effects' or restults are. and if i have a snack/bannana/h2o to wash it down with, it should be tolerable for me.

LyteShow
No sweeteners, no artificial flavors.