(Part 2) Top products from r/MechanicalKeyboards

I have one. I like it. But I only like it because of the price tag; I make myself like it because of how it costs.

I was one of the people that sped down to fry's electronics on launch day and picked myself a cherry mx red version. I had never used mx red's before, but lately I have been getting into the CS:GO competitive scene and thought I could be in the top 5% if I bought reds. I have no idea why I would think this, but I did.

Now, before I get into the pro's and cons, let me preface this: I've bought 4 mechanical keyboards in the last year: so I'm not a noob with keyboards. I currently own a Quickfire TK, Blackwidow Ultimate 2013, Logitech G710+, and of course, the K70 RGB.
The OG keyboard (and probably my favorite to this day, is the Quickfire TK). It was small, light, never slipped, and always had a very bright backlight (this is important for later). The Blackwidow, also had a gorgeous backlight and this keyboard comes in a close second. Then the last 2 keyboard purchases I've made have since gone down-hill. I figured out I can't live without blue keys. Not reds, not browns, not blacks, hell, not even fucking turquoise.

Now this is probably a personal issue, but I can't live if I am not typing/gaming on blues. While writing this, I HAVE to look down while typing, and it is only on this keyboard. It just feels... weird. Something about blues on my fingers make my "keystrokes" more fluid. So enough with my personal problems with the keyboard, let's get on to the issues everyone has with the keyboard.

Pros:

• The wristrest. I bought this keyboard almost primarily for that. And I can say, that isnt really is a big deal, and I probably won't buy another keyboard without one.
  
• The software; I'm talking about features here. The UI is something different and I'll touch on that later. It really is feature-packed. With the API out there, and the helpful and supportive community, you an literally do anything. Yes, anything.
  
• Media controls. I never knew how much I liked/needed them. They are very useful for muting your mic/speakers for when your family comes in and you are in a skype call with your friends. (I mapped mine to mute my mic, not a native feature obviously).
  
  
• I like the brushed aluminum look, it is quite nice.
  
  Cons:
  
  
• The software; talking about the UI. It is atrocious, but I'm willing to ignore it sense after using it for awhile, it starts to make sense and isn't that terrible.
  
  
• The brightness. I find nobody touches on this, but I guarantee you'll notice it. It seems the LED's are dimmed by 50-75% on purpose. And no, I'm not exaggerating. Now I believe this is because the LED's are mounted within the switch to reduce ESD. However, I would almost want to risk ESD (I've never had a LED be a victim of ESD before), than to have them be less bright. Go pick one up, try it, and you'll automatically notice it on all the colors.
  
  
• No side USB ports / audio ports. Not a huge deal, but I enjoyed them when I was using my black widow.
  
  
• The corsair gaming logo doesn't really bother me, but it might bother you, so, I guess that's a con.
  
  
• The software..again, likes to freeze (pic below). Occasionally, the software won't crash, but the lights will just freeze. Whenever I press a key, it rainbows only that key, and as I'm typing this, a few of my keys are stuck mid-rainbow.
  
  
• I like the brushed aluminum for it's looks, but I don't like how I have to clean it every week or two. I do eat alot at my desk, but I always find hairs, food, and a little bit of coffee stains there. Nothing the keyboard can do about it, and not really a con, but just keep in mind that you will have to clean it alot.
  
  Conclusion:
  
  The keyboard is feature packed and has potential, although it just isn't there yet. I am very excited for a (hopefully) revision 2.0 of this. Essential, if Corsair came out with a razer blackwidow which had a wrist wrest and slightly tweaked the software, I would buy it. The keyboard currently is $133 on amazon for Cherry Blues. At this price, I would say it's worth it to atleast tinker around with. It is a nice keyboard, and I think I will continue using it, however, once again, it needs work.
  
  If you can pick it up for $133 or less, and you aren't going to spend your money on anything better, atleast give it a try; Maybe you'll like it.
  
  I hope you found this informative and useful :D
  
  album

Is Preonic worth the investment?

I have a Planck rather than a Preonic but OLKB designs sturdy and reliable boards that are also very interesting.

I honestly think the Planck is like twitter. Having a very low word (key) count makes people more creative in how they express themselves. The Preonic is more like tumbler where more things can be done more easily.

Moving keys to other layers is fine due to the extra thumbable keys on the bottom row. The Preonic doesn't require as many layers because it has so many more keys, so the extra thumb keys aren't really necessary.

That said, it's a nice compromise.

Is it a good build for a beginner?

It's the same difficulty as any other keyboard build that has PCB components soldered on. All you have to do is add switches and through-hole solder them. It's definitely a fine way to learn to solder as long as you follow a few rules.

Most keyboard kits come this way with the exception of those like the Lets Split which you have to solder diodes and a promicro onto also.

The only thing More difficult is getting a PCB printed and buying diodes, resisters, and chips from DigiKey and then using a heat gun or oven to cook all the little things on.

What is a good soldering station?

Cheap ones will work fine. People around here seem to like the Hakko 888d which is what I use. The cheaper ones like this will also work fine. The extra $80 doesn't change much about how you work. Turn on the iron, heat stuff, sponge occasionally, don't touch it to your skin, then put it away safely.

Soldering rules for beginners

1. Don't hold the heat on any part for more than 5 seconds. If it starts looking like a mess, go solder other parts and let things cool off before coming back to fix it. Don't freak out about the speed, just be deliberate and have things ready before you start applying heat
   
2. Use leaded solder because it's much easier to melt and manipulate
   
3. Use rosin core, no clean solder so you don't have to futz around with flux or flux cleaner
   
4. Put the iron down when you're not using it. It is shaped like a pencil and we humans like to tuck those between fingers while manipulating things. Do not do this.
   
   There are a lot of little things to do to maximize soldering experience. You'll figure these out over time. I thing this short list is enough to keep your board intact and blood in your body.

Hello again !

I posted here yesterday being doubtful about what I should look for and found a great help !

Now I have some final question before buying a keyboard.

So I was looking for Backlights, key floating, 60% keyboard with probably cherry mx red.

Was first looking for an ISO layout since I was used to it but seems like they're harder to find and I might want to change since I've seen only positive comments about switching from ISO to ANSI.

I ordered a switch tester to be sure the cherry mx red will be the best for me aswell.

 

Now my question is: which one ?

Model | Price | pro or cons
-|-|-
KBP Paradise V60Plus | less than 100 $ | no RGB but only blue/red backlights
Magicforce | 60 $ or more | Kailh switches, are they any good?
KBC Pok3r 3 | over 143 € without shipping | only found one with cherry mx brown :/

I feel like the KBP is the one I'll get since I'm sure I won't have too much shipping cost, since price seems to be lowered already, and even if it doesn't have floating keys It'll be perfectly fine, however have to say I was hyped by the Pok3r but I'm really hesitating with the KBP and I can't find the Pok3r in europe, with RGB and cherry mx red.

I'm looking for any advice, tip, personal opinion and reviews. Thanks in advance !

 

Also ! Will using an ANSI keyboard on a laptop with an ISO layout keyboard will cause me any problem excepted the fact I might have to swap for FR(azerty) to EN(qwerty) layout pretty often and get used to ISO+qwerty?

Also, since I was looking for a custom key cap, I was first looking for buying one from WASD but seems like I shouldn't, tried to look at Max keyboard but they don't have as much choice, any other recommandation?

I am also looking to buy my first mechanical keyboard in that price range. Personally, I'm looking for either a 60% or tenkeyless, and brown switches. I don't care for backlight. I've got a couple in mind right now, was wondering you all had any input.

$130 [Poker 3] (https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-Keycaps-Cherry-Mx-Blue/dp/B00W02J4DA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1488257829&sr=8-1&keywords=poker+3), of course
If only I could find it with browns. Classic starter for all enthusiasts, it seems.

$144 Filco Majestouch-2 Tenkeyless
The guide says this is a very premium experience, for whatever reason. comes in 10keyless and blank caps that I like.

$120 Tex Beetle
Very compact 66% keyboard, I particularly like the shorter spacebar and easily accessible fn key, as well as the aluminium build.

$140 - $150[WASD VP3] (http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/products/mechanical-keyboard/wasd-vp3-61-key-custom-mechanical-keyboard.html)
Incredibly customizable, you can choose any combination of colors for the keycaps, font type and location, even switch type across the keyboard. You can even have them engraved custom images on the keycaps, so much potential if you are into aesthetics. I'm very tempted, but it is the most expensive one and uses a plastic frame when I think I want metal. Do metal cases make a noticeable difference? It has a big brother with a backlight

$110 GLORIOUS RGB V2 This one seems almost too good to be true. Nice minimal aesthetics, aluminum case, rgb backlight, the whole package just looks so nice. Full sized keyboard only though, I wish so much it came in tenkeyless.
$125 KUL ES-87
I hear good things about this one, probably just excellent build quality. Nothing seems particularly remarkable, but there is something to be said for a simple, high quality experience.

$125 Varmilo VA87M
Another tenkeyless with a sleek minimal body and aluminum frame.

$115 MasterKeys Pro S
New in the coolermaster, looks very sleek and minimal with RGB backlight. Pretty cheap too, a good option. Has the gaudy CM logo over the super key. Caps can be replaced though.

$89 KBParadise V60
A mere 90 bucks, very sleek 60% board. Can come with front printed keys for that hyperminimal feel, hng. Uses Gateron switches instead of cherry, which I've heard from multiple sources feel "smoother", though no one seems to know why. If anyone has anything bad to say about this board, please tell me, because this is probably going to be the one I buy.

$139 Ducky One TKL
Ducky is highly touted by the MK community. This is a nice sleek rgb board, 10keyless. No logos or anything obnoxious, seems like a really good buy.


Bonus: Custom Color Keycaps
If I understand this correctly, looks like a fairly customizable full keycap replacement set for only $20. Lets you change the colors, print location and add blank keycaps pretty cheap. Anyone have experience with these guys?

Sorry this comment is so long haha. I could go on for hours about these stupid switches.

I mean, I have some SKBM White Alps(these are slit-less, like your damped whites) that still feel wonderful(a far cry from SKCM Whites, but still), and were very clean. I'd imagine a cleaning and a lube will help them greatly. End of life SKCM is still better than any current Matias or the most recent SKBM Alps that Matias are based off of.

If you used Tribosys 3204 on them, that could've contributed to the worse feeling as well. I personally haven't lubed any of my Alps switches besides a bit of dielectric grease to eliminate spring ping, and that's a 100% worthwhile thing to do to every switch ever imo. Alps switches much prefer dry lubes, and wet lubes like Tribosys or any other MX suitable lube makes them feel goofy.

Denture tabs can be found at any store, and they're made for dentures, but their oxidization works wonders on a whole lot of different things, just no metal. Think of them as OxiClean(the laundry kind) bit for plastics.

Basically, just take only the top housing and slider(don't forget to take out the dampening rubber tabs) and drop them in the denture tab solution, blowing the dust out first with canned air or a DataVac. Let them sit in there for a while, maybe not 12 hours for only a couple testers, but still a decent amount of time. Once they're done, just squeeze a tiny(barely coat the spring) bit of dielectric grease on each end of the spring and put em back together. If you're going to dry lube them, I wouldn't be able to give advice, as I haven't dry lubed, but I'm sure you can find a tutorial somewhere. They should be silky smooth after that.

As far as what you'll like in the Alps spectrum, it is very difficult to base it off of MX switches, as none have really done a good job at recreating Alps' feels. If you like tactility, I think Alps are the way to go, but for linears, MX are your better option. The designs of each switch are inherently tactile or linear respectively, so neither is a flat out better switch. Alps tactility(though I've heard the oranges feel a whole lot different, and I want some so bad!) is what you'll get from the white damped switches, as long as you can get them smooth, it's rounded and... elegant?(goofy word to use, but it makes sense) If you find buckling springs too loud, you won't enjoy Alps clicky switches. They're loud, but it's such a good sound. Honestly, if your favorite switch is Topre, you may like the cream and white damped more than most, as long as your examples are good. These are the closest to rubber dome I've personally felt in a switch, but they a still are noticeably mechanical.

That's actually a good ideal TBH as you run the risk of damaging the PCB way more than damaging the switches should things go south. Then if you end up lifting a few pads in the de-soldering or soldering process, you can always just jump them as long as you don't burn too many up. Worst case you fry a $20 KB which would suck, but not be a huge waste or anything for the experience you with de-soldering/soldering TBH.

I would clip & lube the stabilizers while you have it all apart, I'm sure those could use the help from that bad. Also most likely you will need to de-solder & remove the LEDs to get the original switches out so you can get enough in one color to cover the whole board & solve the rainbow LED problem while your at it too!

A few tips though, the lead free solder used on these mass produced boards has a pretty high melting point & is tough to get to flow. I highly recommend getting a cheap de-soldering iron like this or this for doing it, also solder wick is a must too. Then any joints that don't come completely clean on the first try, re-solder with leaded iron & repeat the de-soldering process on them. That usually helps to get any remaining lead free solder to move.

The other thing is to get yourself a temp controlled soldering iron. If you plan on getting into building boards I suggest something fairly decent like the Hakko FX888D, it's a little pricey but well worth it if you will using it alot. If you plan on only doing a few projects here & there, you could get away something a little cheaper like this. Anyways GL with the project & I hope to see a success post sooner than later! :)

If you're looking for a tactile switch then MX Brown isn't particularly tactile but you may like it, it's good to try a variety of different switches as well, so perhaps try getting a switch tester. However if you just want to get straight into getting a board, here a few options:

• the Magicforce68 has been a pretty good option for some time at £30 with Outemu Brown switches (Cherry MX clones)
  Link
  
  
• There's also the DREVO Gramr 84 with a similar layout, which I prefer to the Magicforce68 Link
  
  
• RK61 is another one available on Amazon, it's a 60% board so may take some getting used to coming from a full size board Link
  
  
• Aerocool TK50 is a full size board with MX brown clones Link
  
  It might also be a good idea trying to get a board with hotswappable switches, so that you can buy new switches in the future to swap in. There are also some good tactile vintage boards you can get, however prices for these may vary - Chyrosran22 on YouTube has a lot of videos about some really good vintage boards and does many overviews of different switches.
  
  Hope you're able to find a good board for a good price! - Just PM me if you wanna talk more.

Okay, so I just got a Ducky Shine 5 w/ blue switches. I am 100% sure your cube mates would string you up by your toes, so avoid blue (great for home though).

1st option - Novatouch TKL - I purchased a novatouch and put hypersphere rings on it. Without silencing, it is still pretty quite. So I would definitely recommend if you are looking for topre. I know you said no to mods, but it would hit right around the 200 mark if you also got the hyperspheres and less without. VERY nice for the office and it would not annoy anyone. Plus, if you decide you would like to mod down the road, it is a very customizable board that will accept all MX and Topre key switches.

Novatouch TKL - https://amzn.com/B00MY3S288
Hypersphere Rings
Guide - http://imgur.com/gallery/iGzCV

2nd option - HHKB2 - I don't have one, but this will be my next purchase. It's $200, so a little expensive, but from what I can tell you are getting what you pay for here. It's not silent, but quiet. You can still do the same mod down the road if you are looking to make it even more quiet. They do have a type-s where it's silenced at the factory, but that would be closer to the $300 mark. One thing to really take note of and think hard about is the layout. You are definitely losing some keys, so you will be hitting the function key quite a bit. Not sure how that would effect you since you are a programmer.

https://elitekeyboards.com/products.php?sub=pfu_keyboards,hhkbpro2&pid=pdkb400b

3rd option - Ducky Shine 5 w/ Brown - The other option would be something like this keyboard. Full keyboard with all keys, RGB which you would probably want set to white or off since it's in the office. It will be louder since it's a MX, but brown should not be TOO bad. You will need to get some O rings though. That will help with sound dampening. Super easy to put on and nothing like the hypershere rings.

Ducky - https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=1365
O Rings - https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=1219

Take you time and if you have a microcenter close by, go try some keyboards out and see which one fits you best. Topre will be the most quiet, MX brown/Red/Clear will be mid level with o rings, and star away from blues/greens.

Hope that helps! :)

In terms of Cherry MX switches for an absolute beginner -

For gaming you want a linear switch for faster click registration and easier key presses. (Cherry MX Red)

For typing you want a clicky, tactile switch so you can feel the key presses and possibly make less mistakes. (Cherry MX Blue)

Cherry MX Browns are usually the middle-ground and preference for people who don't like the loudness or the full tactility of the Blues, but still want some tactility over the linear Reds. It does well for both typing and gaming.

Different manufacturers (Cherry, Kailh, ALPS, Zealios, etc) will sometimes call their switches different colors but the consistent factors are usually tactile, linear, or clicky. It can seem kind of crazy at first with all the different names but as long as you can recognize the base type of switch that you want, everything else will follow pretty easily.

The second common factor is switch weight, this is very much subject to personal preference so I would highly suggest trying some sample switches first but even then it doesn't really compare to using a board full of them. For my own personal experience I've tried all different kinds of weights and while I like the feel of heavy switches a lot, I don't think that they hold up to extended periods of use unless you reaaally like heavy switches. They can be tiring on your fingers and it's not something I think most people would enjoy powering through. There's not really any benefit to going heavier other than your own personal enjoyment so if you feel like it would take getting used to, I would just go with the regular weight switches.

If you're wondering why Kailh in particular, the switches that they make are very similar to Cherry MX's but they're smoother and just feel so much better than their Cherry MX counterpart (Most Kailh switches are named the same as the Cherry MX versions). They also have a new-ish version of their switches called the BOX and all you really have to know about the BOX vs regular is that the BOX's just feel smoother than the already smoother regular Kailh switches.

If you're going to be gaming and typing I would go with the Kailh BOX Browns, it's the same thing as the Burnt Oranges just not so heavy. :
https://novelkeys.xyz/products/kailh-box-switches

Please also be aware that you can't hot-swap switches in the KBparadise V80 and if you get the Kailh's you either have to solder them into a board or buy a hot-swappable board.

This Team Wolf Zhuque board, although not the prettiest with the lights on, is really well built and the metal casing really makes a difference in how your keys feel. It is hot-swappable meaning you can just use the included tool or tweezer out the switches and swap them to whatever you want.

https://www.amazon.com/Team-Wolf-Swappable-Mechanical-Keyboard-Blue/dp/B01AFBJQA8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1538166099&sr=8-1&keywords=team+wolf+zhuque

The only other hot-swap board on the market I'm aware of is the twice as expensive and half as built Glorious PC Gaming Race board. It looks nicer and it's full RGB but the plastic housing feels very cheap compared to the Zhuque.

To sum it up real quick, if you're going with KBparadise V80 go with Cherry MX Brown. If you're going with the Kailh BOX Browns get the Team Wolf Zhuque.

tldr; get an HHKB

If you want RGB Lighting: Coolermaster Masterkeys Pro L: I don't know what Switch type you want, but it comes in 3 switch flavors, Cherry Blue, Red, and Brown.

If you don't really care about lighting Ducky: Anything from Ducky is great for non RGB Lighting, and you can generally find them with Any switch that is Cherry. I didn't specify any keyboard in the search so you could figure out which one you might like best.

If you want cheap + good switches Magicforce 108 Gat Blues and Magicforce 108 Gat Browns will be your best bet. Gateron actually makes some really nice Cherry knock-off switches, and so I'd recommend Gateron Switch keyboards.

My personal preference in these boards would be the Masterkeys Pro L, it'l be the next board I upgrade to after I find the money to buy it. My Corsair Strafe works really nicely, but... it restricts me in future Keycap buying endeavours.

num pad is a good club to be in; a lot of people swear by them. My first custom build was the [prime_L]
(https://www.primekb.com/collections/keyboards/products/bundle-save) from primekb. It's a smaller form factor than a traditional full size, but packs in everything I needed and then some into the same size as my MF68. I'm really glad I picked it up, it's a wonderful board.

If you're going with a prebuilt, i'm gonna stick with my [Magicforce] (https://smile.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-Backlight-Magicforce-Qisan/dp/B01HHTFSIK/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1510117294&sr=8-2-fkmr0&keywords=magicforce+87) recommendation, but the larger board with Gateron browns. It has the num pad you're looking for, back lighting (makes late night gaming sessions far more doable) and lighter tactile switches that aren't as noisy as the blues. There are others out there, but Qisan really does make a great board for the money.

If you want to spend a little bit more, I think the [Vortex ViBE] (https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=2937) looks fantastic. If I hadn't decided to build the Prime_L, this was the board I had my eye on. I've not used it, but there's a good [review here] (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RphNQVOKmgs&t=2s) that Rhinofeed did. Vortex makes some of the best prebuilt boards out there, so you really can't go wrong with their products.

If you decide you want to build something yourself let me know and i'll give you a few more recommendations and pointers.

If you really don't care for features, and want blues, there's a few options. It really depends how much you want to spend. The KB below are kinda starter/non-enthusiast boards (with maybe the exception of the corsairs), which doesn't mean they're bad, just that they are what most people are looking for (simple, clean, cheap, and sturdy). You could get other boards for around $150 that are a bit fancier, but it sounds like you just want a KB that works.

This is an decent board, but there are better ($139) -

http://www.amazon.com/Das-Keyboard-Professional-Mechanical-DASK3MKPROSIL/dp/B008PFDUW2/

Corsair has some nice boards around this range, but they also have extra features, such as LEDs and media keys. I recommend the K70 over the strafe, but the K70 is out of stock for some options -

$115-130 - http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Gaming-Mechanical-Keyboard-Backlit/dp/B014W1YUAS/

$150 - http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Mechanical-Keyboard-Multicolor-CH-9000120-NA/dp/B014W1YLAM/

CoolerMaster has some really solid boards. I would recommend the CoolerMaster Storm QuickFire Ultimate if you want something that's good but not over the top, and doesn't cost you too much. The CM Storm QuickFire XT is a similar board, but without LEDs.

$108 - http://www.amazon.com/CM-Storm-QuickFire-Ultimate-Mechanical/dp/B00EJ8CKIY/

$98 - http://www.amazon.com/CM-Storm-QuickFire-XT-Mechanical/dp/B00DKXXABK/

Rosewill also has some nice boards, but they're a bit simpler. I recommend the Rosewill Mechanical Gaming Keyboard if you want something real simple and cheaper than most. The Rosewill Apollo is also nice, and has some LEDs if that's what you want

$80 - http://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Mechanical-Keyboard-Switches-RK-9000V2/dp/B00S5E4KH2/

$94/114 - http://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-RK-9100xBBR-Backlit-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B00HA201UK/

Apologies for the lack or order and formatting, and let me know if you have any questions. The biggest thing for keyboards is that you like it though, so make sure you find one that appeals to you!

Suggestions when all I care about is 6KRO?

I don't dislike Rubber Domes, but losing key inputs from ghosting is awful. I've had a chance to try Cherry Blues and Cherry Blacks - Blacks I liked less than Rubber Dome; Blues were about equal but entirely too loud (I'm a streamer and I don't want loud keyboard noises picked up on the microphone). Desired specs:

• 6KRO. NKRO would obviously be fine but shouldn't be necessary.
  
• Full-sized keyboard (with large backspace and standard 2-row Ins-Home-PgUp) - I've heard tenkeyless is better ergonomically but I simply use the numpad too much.
  
• The quieter the better, but doesn't need to be silent.
  
• No macro keys on the sides; standard width. (Standard height is also preferable but less essential.)
  
• Other bonuses are likely irrelevant to me: I don't care about lighting, fancy keycaps, or modability.
  
• Either USB or PS/2 is fine, wired is fine (preferable?)
  
  So - I'd be perfectly happy with a Rubber Dome keyboard that had 6KRO, but these are rare and tend to cost as much as decent switches anyway. I can afford up to ~$200, but considering I currently have a preference for Rubber Dome much of what increases a keyboard's price isn't something I'm interested in paying for.
  
  Thus, I'm considering perhaps the Velocifire VM01, with off-brand Brown Switches and good ratings (I'd also get o-rings with it). I'd even consider e.g. a low-end Topre but am not convinced I'd find the extra cost worth it? Open to other suggestions as well.

Depends on what you mean by best. There are so many great options. The QFR is a great cheap board. the Novatouch is great if you love Topre but don't want to get rid of the customizability. The KUL ES-87 is a very high quality board. Realforce boards are great if you love Topre. The Model M SSK is great if you love Buckling Springs but don't have the desk space for a full sized Model M. Don't even get me started on the custom TKLs...

This is my Full Metal Printed Filco Majestouch-2 TKL

I posted pictures earlier here:

http://redd.it/1i58od


It is made using the following:

1. Filco Majestouch-2 TKL [www.keyboardco.co.uk or Amazon.com]
   
   
2. MKC Silver Zinc Printed Cherry MX Keys [OEM Profile] (86 Keycaps)+(Aluminum Spacebar) [purchased via PM to feng @ geekhack.org ~ $215]
   
   
3. Vortex Aluminum Case (Grey)(Filco TKL) [http://mechanicalkeyboards.com/ | http://tinyurl.com/qa4htga]
   
   
4. 2x O-rings http://amzn.com/B0051XWXCE
   
   
5. Da Vinci Aluminum Poker 300 Chip Case http://amzn.com/B002P9YRN0
   
   FAQ:
   
   
6. Where did you get the non-standard size keys?
   The only way I was able to get the modifiers was to simply buy the entire 87 key set. I really wish I was able to buy each key I needed separately, I am now forced to sell my old zinc keycaps.
   
   
7. Are these keycaps available unprinted?
   Yes, They are also available unprinted. I posted pictures earlier of an unprinted set on geekhack when I ordered my keycaps. The aluminum case pictured below is a MKC case and is much more expensive then the Vortex. http://i.imgur.com/BMf6cQ5.jpg
   
   
8. How do you like typing on the Zinc Keycaps?
   Currently it's like typing on "light blue" as the wieght of the keys lightens the actuation force required. I also added o-rings http://amzn.com/B0051XWXCE (be sure to order 2 sets) to give it a bit of a bounce when it bottoms out which is great as I type heavy. The noise it makes is distinctive and satisfying even with the o-rings.
   
   
9. Do they make your fingers smell like metal?
   The green fingers and distinct smell of zinc keys are from unplated zinc keycaps and since these are plated it is not an issue.
   
   
10. Do fingerprints or dust show more easily on these?
    I can usually wipe off any residue with my fingers. Zinc keycaps are fairly resistant to marks or stains and very easy to clean as well. The plated metal does not show any noticeable fingerprints and it is very difficult to see any fingerprint residue even in the brightest of lights. No matter which keyboard you own be sure you have some isopropyl rubbing alcohol available for cleaning up.
    
    
11. How much did your Full Metal Filco Cost?
    $215 Keycaps $150 Case $150 Keyboard $16 O-rings. I will hopefully be able to sell the Ninja keycaps and Filco case and other accessories that I accumulated to help fund part of the cost. All items I currently have available will be in my Album http://imgur.com/a/5tsOm or on /r/mechmarket

Well, someone will inevitably point out to you all the guides on the sidebar. But having said that, it's a tricky thing to advise on because everyone likes different things.

Since it's your first keyboard, you'll want to really improve the quality of life. A few tricks I recommend:

1 - Lube your switches. This requires you to disassemble them (not difficult), which you can attempt to do with a small screwdriver, but you risk damaging them. A switch opening tool ($7 USD and free shipping) will make all the difference in the world. There's certainly more detailed guides for this, and I'll try to limit the scope of this thread, but regardless of what switches you've got, you want to lube them. If you're not sure what lube to use, this is a good starting point.

2 - LUBE YOUR STABILIZERS. This will be different from lubing your switches. You want to use a thick material, such as dielectric grease, as it is safe for plastics, won't dry out or shrink, and lasts a long time. Crappy/wrong lube will break down over time, and then before you know it you'll have rattling stabilizers. Dielectric grease is not expensive - do it right. If you're not sure how to clip and lube your stabilizers, watch this video. On that note:

3 - Get better stabilizers. If I remember right from my KBD75 kit, the stabilizers they include are Chinese clones. Don't use these. They will rattle no matter how well you lube them, and the feet aren't capable of being clipped like genuine Cherry ones. Don't make the mistake of thinking it won't be that big of a deal. Once you've assembled the board, you'll only be able to change them by desoldering the entire thing. I've made the mistake - so have plenty of others. Get the right stabilizers. Get these (you will want PCB mount stabilizers).

4 - Band-aid mod. Put little strips of fabric band-aid in the space that will be underneath the stabilizer housings. This will make it so the stabilizer stems don't clack down hard onto the PCB. Here is a visual example of what I mean.

5 - Practice soldering first, or watch some videos (or both). Don't risk melting a switch or burning out your PCB. If you've not done some soldering before, start practicing now. It can be done with a really cheap soldering iron, but make sure you know what you're doing.

6 - Only use leaded solder. Don't go with lead-free solder. It flows like crap, and is a huge pain in the ass to desolder later if you have issues. And rosin core is essential. If you need a suggestion, this stuff (in 0.8mm width) is great.

7 - Clean the flux off your board when you're done soldering. Get a cheap, soft bristled brush, and some 70% isopropyl alcohol. Dip the brush in the alcohol and gently scrub all the brown gooey stuff off the back once you're done soldering. This stuff can oxidize easily, and will lead to corrosion down the line if you don't take care of it. It's not water-soluble, so that's why we use alcohol. The alcohol will also dry residue free. Win-win.

8 - Put some cheap dampening agent in the case. Since it's a KBD75, you're gonna want that underglow visible so you don't want to use a thick foam. But something cheap like this will do wonders to absorb some of the ping and clack from the keys that is common with an aluminum case. Just line the bottom of the case and cut out the holes for the standoffs.

That's about all I can think of off the top of my head. You do this business, and you'll have a near endgame board right out of the gate. If you've got any additional questions, feel free to lob them my way.

Hi. Italian here!

• Recently i bought Finish Line Extreme Fluoro for stabs after a long research, is the fastest that you can get and is not bad.
  
  
• CandyKeys has SuperLube! Is also cheap for europe, i did a test, if you get 10 superlubes is 7 euro + 4 euro DHL shipping, 11 euro for Italy is pretty good imho
  
  
• Also SwitchTop has SuperLube, shipping is something like 8$ to Italy but if you need something other from the shop, may be worth it, otherwise CandyKeys is better!
  
  
• Krytox/Teflon formula from Pexon
  
  From what i saw, Krytox is usually better, not sure what is Pexon formula but the original Krytox is used to be better but is also pretty expensive, especially to Italy, I would say just go for that Finish Line on Amazon or SuperLube from CandyKeys and you will be fine :)
  
  Ciao!

I wouldnt worry about it. iKBC makes high-quality boards. "Real" cherry switches are no better than many of their competitiors, such as kailh switches and gateron switches, and generally tend to feel worse. If you do a search of this forum (which I strongly recommend, so that you learn more about mech boards in general), you'll find that most serious enthusiasts do not like the feel of cherry switches unless they have modified them in some way - such as taking them apart to apply lube, or swapping them into the housing of one of their competitors. "Real Cherry" is a marketing gimmick, and if this is your only concern, you can save money by getting a "knock-off" board for much less.

As for stabilizers: this is a case of you get what you pay for. Off-the-shelf boards with great stabilizers include: vortex vibe (60% + numpad), and the vortex race (75%, no numpad), but these tend to retail for around $130 USD. Other more expensive brands, such as leopold, have great stabilizers too. Rattly stabs are easy to fix, in any case.

Other brands you might look into: Coolermaster makes solid entry-level full-sized boards, and they have excellent stabilizers, and does the brand Ducky. Rosewill is another option: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00S5E4LX0/ref=s9_acsd_simh_hd_bw_bk38zb_c_x_w?pf_rd_m=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&pf_rd_r=5K7ZA2QY682GE8P8EK93&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=0717e713-00ea-5675-b7dd-2d1ae0cbad07&pf_rd_i=680461011

Another option still is RedDragon: https://www.amazon.ca/Redragon-KUMARA-Backlit-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B016MAK38U/ref=lp_680461011_1_8?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1523199659&sr=1-8

Cooler Master: https://www.amazon.ca/MasterKeys-Mechanical-Keyboard-Switches-Keycaps/dp/B072C516B9/ref=lp_680461011_1_18?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1523199659&sr=1-18 .

And yes, fees tend to be higher in Canada.

If you are really, truly, concerned, I would spend the time to do some keyword searches in this forum. I dont mean this offensively, but a lot of your concerns are fairly noobish and reading up on what other people say will probably assuage them, and make you feel better about spending money on whatever board you eventually do get (I speak from experience on this). Your keyboard needs are fairly straightforward, so you should be able to get a solid board that meets them without spending more than you want to.

So this past Saturday night I was browsing some reddit. I happened to stumble across this photo, which awoke a desire in me to own a mechanical keyboard. Until now I thought mechanical keyboards were just a gamer thing and the only style they came in was black keyboards with RGB flashing all over the place. But seeing that picture made me realize that there is a huge variety of ways you can aesthetically customize a board. So the past few days I've spent a lot of my spare time doing research and trying to decide what I ultimate want in my "dream" mechanical keyboard. I've ordered a cheaper mechanical keyboard off Amazon for now until I've settled on what I want.

Sorry for the story, I just thought it was worth mentioning and giving you my very brief history and knowledge of mechanical keyboards (or lack thereof). Anyway, I have two questions:

1. What are some quality 75% or higher keyboards with a completely compact design? By compact design, I mean no empty space between key groupings. Like this. I want f-keys and some kind of arrows (either actual arrow keys or a numpad with numlock). Preferably Cherry MX switches, or something that supports Cherry MX stemmed keycaps. I imagine I'm looking in all the wrong places, but I haven't seen many keyboards like that. The Red Scarf III Ver.A pictured above was part of a massdrop, and the Drevo 84 Key Gramr is a budget board. I assume the Noppoo Choc Mini 84 NKRO is my answer? Are there any others?
   
2. Where can I get my hands on a nice set of SA/DSA profile keycaps? I'm in love with the Nantucket set, but they just wrapped up a groupbuy. The few times I've seen them on r/mechmarket they've either sold out super fast or are priced higher than I can comfortably pay for them. Royal Navy seems equally hard to hunt down. I also wouldn't mind a carbon/industrial look like the GMK Carbon set. I know that pimpmykeyboard has some SA and DSA sets, but I'm not too fond of any of them (and if I'm going to be spending $100+ on a keyset, I want to be happy with what I get).

I need help making a purchase decision. I bought my first mechanical a few months ago. It was a $40-something off-brand with Outemu blue switches, and OH MY GOD was it a breath of fresh air compared to the mushy swamp keyboard I'd been struggling with since college. Clickety clackety never going backety.

Now I want to replace my work keyboard. I prefer something sedate and professional looking, and I really like having a number pad. I've pretty much settled on Cherry brown switches this time, but I'm tossing around a couple of different models in the sub-$100 category. The thoughts of /r/mechanicalkeyboards are welcome:

• Rosewill RK-9000. A pretty popular entry-level board, and I know the brand.
  
• CoolerMaster Storm QuickFire XT. CM's seem to have a decent reputation at this price point, and I've read rumors that the QuickFires are made in the same factory as some Filco models.
  
• iKBC C104. This is the model I'm most curious about. It looks like a nicely built keyboard with higher quality key caps, but I can't find much information about the brand other than some references to a MassDrop sale a while back. What's the deal here?
  
  Thanks!

While I’m waiting on my Lumina to come in, I figure I’d do a cheaper, experimental tactile build.

Keyboard: Duck Sidewinder Gray

• Duck Sidewinder
  
  Stabs: GMK Screw in Stabalizers w/ Walker Mod (no adhesive sticker)
  
  
• GMK Screw in Stabalizers
  
  
• Permatex Dielectric Grease
  
  
• Orings
  
  Switches: Holy Razers
  
  
• Greetech SMD RGB bottoms
  
  
• Outemu ICE V2 tops
  
  
• Halo True stems
  
  
• Krytox 205 GPL 0
  
  Butyl Rubber
  
  
• Non Adhesive for the case
  
  
• Adhesive for the spacebar
  
  Keycaps:
  
  
• Blue Grey XDA Keycap Set
  
  I needed something to scratch my itch while I wait for my Lumina, so I decided to pick up the Duck Sidewinder and screw around with some mods. I have a bunch of halo’s and Outemu Ice V2’s lying around, so I decided to pick up some Greetech switches to mess around with. After lubing them up with Krytox 205, I had a good set of holy razers, and I’m pretty happy with them.
  
  I’ve used butyl rubber to deaden the sound in my keyboards before, but this is the first time using it on the spacebar. I actually like the added weight in the spacebar, and I had no idea if I would or not.
  
  As far as the caps go… Truth be told, I’m not much of a fan, but I was hoping the dark blue would bring out the blue tones in the case, and I think it did pretty well. I’ll keep them on for bit and see if they grow on me. It's just hard to find a good set of caps that are colemak compatible. Currently I'm waiting on these.
  
  I’m pretty excited to have this as my daily driver for awhile :)

It is a gaming mouse but the Razer Deathadder Essential is a really good, comfortable, and quiet mouse. It's great for office work and can be found cheap in plain packaging on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Razer-DeathAdder-Essential-Ergonomic-Comfortable/dp/B00AAS888S/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1480653770&sr=1-2&keywords=deathadder+3.5g

And the Rosewill RK-9000V2 BR with MX Browns is a great upper-mid end board with solid build quality and switches that are not overly loud.

How good?

Here is one that will last you pretty much for whatever no matter what you do with it, its the soldering iron I have used for the past several years and has been great on a number of projects: https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B00ANZRT4M/

Here is one that will do just fine but isn't great or anything:
https://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-40-Watt-Soldering-Station/dp/B000AS28UC

The most important feature for a good soldering station is variable temperature.

The only other things you will need is solder:
https://www.amazon.com/WYCTIN-Solder-Electrical-Soldering-0-11lbs/dp/B071G1J3W6, a solder wick: https://www.amazon.com/MIYAKO-Desoldering-Wire-Handy-Dispenser/dp/B010VMHR5M, and possibly wire cutters if you don't have them: https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Micro-Cutter/dp/B00FZPDG1K

Some personal advice is get the best one you can afford if you thing you will use it a lot, the difference between a okay one and a great one is huge. I hated soldering till I got a good iron.

Amazon reviews can be a good indicator. Out of 1,539 reviews (which is a lot for a mechanical keyboard), it gets 4.3 out of 5 stars. 65% are 5 stars and 15% are 4 stars. You may still want to check out the 1-star and 2-star reviews to see if any glaring problems come up. $86.50 seems like a good price for a board with Cherry browns. Link

The keeb in your ebay link is "Manufacturer refurbished: An item that has been professionally restored to working order by a manufacturer or manufacturer-approved vendor. This means the product has been inspected, cleaned, and repaired to meet manufacturer specifications and is in excellent condition. This item may or may not be in the original packaging. See the seller’s listing for full details." $58 seems like a great price if you trust the refurbishing process.

So, I've been trying to find a mechanical keyboard for when my silicone dies, but I'm kinda picky so this might be a bit over specific. Does anybody know of a good mechanical keyboard that has:

• Media keys (I can live without these if it has the others)
  
• 10-key
  
• Any switch besides black or red
  
• is back light (preferable with blue as an option)
  
• Isn't just the generic rectangle shape
  
  I like some character in my keyboards. This is the best I've found so far, and was wondering if anybody knows of something else that fits the bill.
  
  Thanks for any help in advance!

Hey guys,

I currently live in Canada, the land of expensive PC components, and I'm looking at getting into the world of mechanical keyboards. I'm hoping to spend around $100, and it seems like options might be limited. I would love to get something like the Leopold FC900R but it seems the only retailer that will ship to Canada is mechanicalkeyboards.com and I'm probably looking at over $200 after shipping and currency conversion. My only real requirement is a detachable USB connection (so it can be stored easily) and a full-size number pad.

Would anyone have any recommendations to get my feet wet? I've been looking at this Rosewill keyboard: https://www.amazon.ca/Rosewill-Mechanical-Keyboard-RK-9000V2-BR/dp/B00S5E4LX0/ref=sr_1_18?crid=AFYWZTOVWTXV&keywords=mechanical%2Bkeyboards&qid=1563976704&s=gateway&sprefix=mechanical%2B%2Caps%2C196&sr=8-18&th=1

It seems like a great value, and uses Cherry MX Brown which is seems really solid.

Thoughts??

Looking at buying a new mechanical keyboard. I've owned a Corsair K90 for many years nw and have mostly loved it, but I think I would like something a little smaller and more "clicky" when typing.

I've been looking at tenkeyless keyboards with MX blue switches in the $100 $100-150 range. I primarily want to use it as a compact keyboard for typing. I've looked through the wiki and read some reviews but many of them were outdated/for older models. Through my research I found these 3 keyboards:

• Corsair K65 $69 (Not ideal as it has red switches and is basically a compact version of my current keyboard)
  
• Happy Hacking Lite2 $73 (I don't like the non-standard layout)
  
• CM Storm Quickfire Rapid-i $99
  
• MasterKey Pro S $113 (What's the difference between RGB and White versions?)
  
• Code Keyboard $140 (I read the key caps wear out quickly and become glossy.)
  
  
  Does anyone have suggestions to help convince me one way or maybe even introduce an entirely new option? Thanks!
  

Every board has a metal plate so no worries there. For $100 and fullsized you could try the big Magicforce. Not 100% sure of it's quality, but having owned the smaller Magicforce 68, I think it was ok for the price. Magicforce is touted around here as being a pretty good fullsized board.

You can also check out the Masterkeys Pro L which is much more widely known and advertised. If you stretch your budget a bit more, you could have the RGB version but that's a bit pricey.

Any switches are good for typing considering people game and type on rubberdomes. Just figure out what you like. (Either in person, which I recommend, by going to a Bestbuy/ Microcenter or buy a switch tester, which is pricey and doesn't give you the full feeling.)

Well, a lot of folks on r/mk (myself included) seem to be in agreement that Gateron switches are better than Cherry, and those are "knock-offs" so I dont think anyone will downvote you for not buying "branded" switches.

The few people who have posted about their red dragon boards seem to like them, and as far as backlight goes, that aesthetic is up to you.

What country are you trying to buy this keyboard in? If you search mechanical keyboards on amazon, you see a bunch of cheaper options that do have numpads. If you want a mechanical numpad, jellycomb makes one for $20 USD.

Here is a TOMOKO with numpad for $55 https://www.amazon.com/TOMOKO-Mechanical-Keyboard-Resistant-Anti-ghosting/dp/B01IHVN4GA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1478280296&sr=8-2&keywords=mechanical+keyboard+tomoko

Rosewill is $60: https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Mechanical-Keyboard-Switches-RK-9000V2/dp/B00S5E4KH2

If you really want a solid keyboard with a numpad, the coolermaster TK retails in the US for $80 https://www.amazon.com/CM-Storm-QuickFire-TK-Mechanical/dp/B00A378L4C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1478280161&sr=8-2&keywords=coolermaster+keyboard

The Ducky One is another great option if you can save up the $115

You can still use em with the FN layer.

I was also first sceptical about the 60% layout but after i build my own it works good. And also you pretty much only gonna use F5 and maybe F12 ( for BIOS or STEAM screenshots)

Out of all that you wrote i would go with the Magicforce with some nice Gateron Brown switches best bang for your buck.

Or the Drevo Gramr has F keys and for only 40€ good enough https://www.amazon.es/Drevo-84-Tenkeyless-mec%C3%A1nico-retroiluminado/dp/B01H6DHITE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479331621&sr=8-1&keywords=Drevo+Gramr ( haven't found a portuguese amazon site) But it has Outemu switches not Gateron or MX but for that low of a price i think you can't make much wrong.

Topre keyboards are the closest I can think of. They're pretty much a crossbreed between MX blues and rubber domes, so you get the best of both worlds. Expect to pay a pretty penny, though. The cheapest Topre keyboard I can think of costs around $180(Though CM calls them "exclusive hybrid capacitive keyswitches"), and HHKBs (the most well-known Topre keyboards) usually cost over $200.

If you can't afford that, I hear that the MX browns give a tactile bump instead of the click that the MX blues have. The MX clears are the same type of switch, but they offer more resistance (Tactile force of 65 cN and actuation force of 55 cN, compared to the 45 cN actuation force of the browns). The KUL ES-87 offers a tenkeyless option (no numpad) with both MX browns and MX clears for $130, and for a full-size keyboard, the WASD CODE features MX clears for $150. I recommend getting a switch tester to see which fits best for you. I hope this helps.

Is there any general consensus on the Drevo Gramr 84 (Outemu Brown Switches) as to how good it is? I hear it's "pretty good for it's price", but I'm not sure if it's the "best" Keyboard I can pick up for that price range. (The often-recommended Magicforce 68 feels just a little too small for me; I really would like a dedicated Function Row and Escape Key). I hear people saying different things about Outemu; some say it's good, some say that they think they're bad. This would be my first Mech Keyboard, so it's not like I've been using Cherries or Gaterons or whatever for a long time and can easily "tell" the difference between the switches.

Also, are there any TKL Mechanical Keyboards with Brown Switches that I should consider (or if any exist...) around the ~$40-50 price range (on Amazon, US)? Drevo Gramr is 75% which I think I can work with (might need to do a little bit of brain rewiring for a week or so when using), but I'd prefer a "standard" TKL layout with some space between the Number Row and Function Row; the Insert/Delete/Home/End/etc. buttons grouped together slightly away from the Keyboard, the Arrow keys by themselves, etc.

Finally--anyone know how often these things go on "sale"? Being a Steam user, it's always about the sales on games which happen often and are heavy discounts...I don't expect any heavy discounts on this Keyboard, but even small discounts are savings. Any wild guesses on if potentially this Keyboard could go on sale (even by like $5-10), or if it's probably just going to stick at $40?

Yeah, but it's not worth it at that price.

About the switches:

Cherry MX Switches can be divided into two categories (concerning noise):

1. Quiet (linear/tactile): Reds, Browns, Blacks, Clears, Nature-Whites.
   
2. Noisy (clicky): Blues, Greens, Whites.
   
   This Magicforce (linear version, tactile version) is a great choice for new buyers: it's readily available on Amazon in a variety of switches, and it's relatively cheap. I'd recommend you skim over the Wiki (specifically the buyer's guide and common misconceptions), and if you have any more questions feel free to ask :)

Don't get ducky. It's over priced because pro fortnite players use it. I recommend the ap2 because it's like 90 bucks on Amazon and it has great RGB, nice software, high quality build, and comes in kailh switches which, IMO are cheaper, better Cherry's. Ap2 is real nice. If you want to delve deeper into the neverending abyss of mechanical keebs then go on to kbdfans fans(after doing some switch research) and get a tada 68. They come in like 50 different switches.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JVMBMNK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_SHRjDbBJNNT3J

You could buy this and then some switches and keycaps. All you have to do is pop in the switches. It's plug and play.

https://novelkeys.xyz/products/kailh-box-switches?variant=3747940171816

$3 = 10 s

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JDVG4RQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VKRjDbG6BFWYV

This but these keycaps, which look amazing with they RGB. Or you can get any other keycaps you may want. And you have a nice ass board for just over $100. I have this exact board and I customized it to my liking. It works phenomenally.

https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/cbpfi8/th_miami_tealios_v2_67_gk61_gens_prism_took_like/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app

*Posted on alt

Greetings,

Looking for help checking my work on keyboard research.

I'm looking to replace my creaky, decade-old Microsoft Ergonomic 4000 with a decent mechanical keyboard. Budget is unlimited. Here are my primary requirements:

• Full size with tenkey
  
• Backlit RGB
  
• Blue-style keys (I'm not picky enough to require Cherry, just want the click)
  
• Most importantly, Linux compatible; this almost certainly means hardware controls
  
  I have found a few keyboards that meet most of those requirements and offer full RGB, but the typical choices from Logitech, Razer and Corsair require custom software that doesn't play nicely with Linux. Here are the best options I have found:
  
  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014M8Z4E2
  
  This one from Azio has on board memory and customization through hardware rather than software, but the range of colors is limited and there is only one stored preset.
  
  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D8ETGJ0
  
  This one from Coolermaster looks nicer and it has Cherry MX Blue keys, although I prefer the flat backplate on the Azio to the key wells on the CM. Still reading reviews on this one to see how flexible the hardware customization is. Looks like it might have more than one stored preset, which is my main issue with the Azio.
  
  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C8PHZMK
  
  This one from Gamdias also seems to have some ability to do hardware programming, but I'm not sure to what extent.
  
  Any other options I haven't considered?

If you're happy with ANSI layout and want a budget board, then any of the clone boards like the Qisan will be fine. Qisan also make the Magicforce which is a fantastic budget board owned by a lot of users here.

This is potentially an even better option, since it appears to have no non-standard keys (excluding right shift, which is easily replaceable) and is cheaper.

If you are looking for ISO Layout and don't mind spending, check out the Winkeyless B.Mini which can be built and customised to your liking :)

Everybody have their own preference, but cherry mx red is my first mechanical keyboard switch that I use. I used specifically it for 2 years, then when I try brown out, I don't like it. Brown feels like a dirty red to me--red with slight bump, so slight I'm not sure why the bump is there in the first place.

But for you, someone who's used with brown, red might feels different. Definitely let me know when you tried red out, I'm curious of your reaction :D

So I have magicforce 68 gateron red, I bought it from amazon here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E57PXKA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Honestly I hate it. Not because it's bad, but because right now I'm too used on having a heavier keyboard as I have aluminium plate, aluminium case, etc. The magicforce build is solid but it is still plastic. I'm assuming your logitech g710 is a solid plastic too so I don't think you'll have problem adjusting with magicforce.

The gateron red in magicforce is uniform, stable, and responsive. It's amazing for gaming in my experience when I played dota 2 with it.

Cooler Master Masterkeys Pro S. I used to have a CM Storm Quickfire which is basically the older name but same model, it's a really good board. Super sturdy build quality, clean sleek look without any "gamer" branding, equally clean keycap legends and a 100% standard key layout, and detachable braided USB cable. Mine didn't have software customization or programmability but I think these newer ones do.

I just put o-rings on my alphanumerics on MX Clears and I'm enjoying it. It does actually make what I already feel is a quiet keyboard quieter, which was some of my goal. I also feel like it somehow made my typing a little more accurate, but that's likely just in my head. It definitely changed the way the keys feel a little bit, they have a bit of a "tighter" feel for lack of a better word (I'm sure there's someone more fluent in keyboard that can better attest to o-rings on Clears). Personally, I like the change a lot as I almost feel like it makes the keys heavier and the presses more defined. I might change my mind and go without; I've only been using them for 2 days so far.

For anyone considering, honestly, pick some up for $2 with Prime shipping and just try it out for a bit. Worst case scenario you're out of $2 and then you have a vehement negative opinion that you can later share in threads like this, woo!

If you want a good first, without much of a learning curve (meaning the loss of the ten key, or arrows), I'd suggest the Magic Force. It's less than $100 and comes with Gateron Brown Switches which are a favorite among a lot of people here. Yea, it's missing the ten key, but has the arrows.


If you want something with a ten key, the prices begin to skyrocket. You'll be spending about $150-$200 for a pretty standard full size board with Cherry/Gateron switches. There are full size boards with "better" switches, but the price goes up even more.


My personal favorites are the 60% boards, which have no ten key or arrows. Of course you can easily program these keys as a function layer on top of other keys, but to each their own. You'll find countless boards of this type, and a lower cost option is the Poker. The one I linked is the New Poker 2, which is USB C powered.


The last option is to build your own, which CAN be cheaper than buying a pre-built board. The main cost here comes with the key caps themselves.


I like to buy parts from US companies, mainly for shipping reasons. So check the following for the hardware needed to build a board. Be aware that some soldering tools/experience is required.


www.1upkeyboards.com

www.novelkeys.xyz

www.mechanicalkeyboards.com

www.switchtop.com

www.flashquark.com


If buying overseas is your thing, and you enjoy the 3 weeks or more shipping times, check the following. By the way, there are more sites in this category, I just don't know them all:


www.aliexpress.com

www.kdbfans.com

I have a bunch of Oracal vinyl from other projects that I like to throw on things just because. It might be worth looking up how people wrap vehicle interior trim pieces with vinyl, as it looks like this can be taken apart fairly easily, with the outer case being two halves.

http://www.gomechanicalkeyboard.com/velocifire-nk01-keypad-review/

As far as replacing switches go, it's really hard to say how difficult you might find it, but this would be something good to practice on because if you fuck up, you aren't out much. The most annoying part of the process is desoldering, but once you figure that out it's not that bad. Also with soldering, it's best to get a temperature controllable iron and decent solder.

I've had great success with this desoldering iron:

https://www.amazon.com/Tenma-21-8240-Vacuum-Desoldering-Iron/dp/B008DJRYIG

Im currently thinking about buying my first mech board, something around $50. I've only tried greens and browns before and really liked them. The keyboards I was looking at are the [Drevo 84] (https://www.amazon.com/Drevo-84-Key-Tenkeyless-Mechanical/dp/B01H6DHITE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480668408&sr=8-1&keywords=drevo), Qisan 68 , [Corsair k65] (https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Vengeance-Compact-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B00DOWCQ0I/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1480667218&sr=8-8&keywords=mechanical+keyboard) , [Corsair k70 refurb] (http://www.corsair.com/en-us/corsair-gaming-k70-mechanical-gaming-keyboard-cherry-mx-brown-ch-9000516-na-refurbished), and the [Ajazz ak33] (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ajazz-Geek-AK33-Backlit-USB-Wired-Gaming-Mechanical-Keyboard-for-PC-Laptop-/121991387736?var=&hash=item1c6740da58:m:m8UdK8NaQRLhr0Zm2pw3NJA). I dont mind not having the numpad, but I'm not sure which of these boards is the best. Also the ak33 seems really appealing for the price but I'm not sure how loud the switches will be in comparison to browns. Any help will be appreciated!

I've been looking at low-profile compact keyboard options recently, and to my surprise it's proving trickier than expected, so I'm asking for suggestions

Criteria are as following:

• Low-profile and generally thin
  
• Doesn't necessarily have to be mechanical but is to be used for a lot of typing
  
• Function key row
  
• US-style layout (wide LShift, Horizontal Enter key)
  
• Normal-sized arrow keys (not Apple-style half-height)
  
• Either normal TKL or 84-key - needs Home, End, Delete keys
  
• Can have or not have backlight^((so long as it's not always-on and shining like a thousand suns))
  
• Can be wired or wireless
  
• <=$150; shipping from US
  
  Am currently using a Microsoft Sculpt Ergonomic Desktop keyboard. The keys feel really nice, and the layout is good, but so far the mid-keyboard gap isn't quite clicking with me (I've pressed Y with my left hand for at least 10 years now, and here it's on the right side) and their other keyboards with same type of keys are all full-sized.
  
  I have a Logitech K380 lying around, and it's alright (no high standards, mostly used with mobile devices), but not a fan of squished arrow keys.
  
  Current considerations:
  
  
• Sharkoon Purewriter TKL
  
• HAVIT HV-KB390L
  
• Thinkpad Compact Keyboard
  
  Update: Settled on HAVIT. Sharkoon seems OK too but only ships from Germany (?) and is a little thicker; Thinkpad is generally highly regarded but the layout is a bit oddish (Fn is left-most key) and my life can do without the perspectives of cleaning any more laptop-esque (inset) keyboards.

Looking for a full-size with MX Browns for general use plus gaming (USA), and the following are all pluses: Mac layout, white LED, detachable cord, simple aesthetics, and "floating keys" like Varmilo (definitely not all hard requirements except full size and Browns).

Current plan is WASD Code (has everything except floating keys, for 150 on Amazon or less if I can wait for MassDrop) with these O-rings (look equivalent to regular red ones), plus Vortex doubleshot PBT+POM backlit white keycaps thick OEM height ones that apparently look great on specifically the Code (plus they match my white Corsair 600T hackintosh case).

Any ideas? Decent cheaper alternatives I hadn't considered? Concerns I should be aware of with this setup? This Ducky One looks like a decent cheaper board at 120 with Browns and white LED, but the availability is listed only as preorder, which sounds to me like “unavailable for who knows how long”.

Apologies for my noobiness, and happy holidays!

I think it's white only. You could paint it ;)

When I was shopping for a work board, I was looking for brown switches and trying to stay cheap. My choices came down to the Magicforce and this Velocifire. I already had Outemu browns on my first mech, and really wanted to try Gaterons after seeing everyone say they're appreciably smoother (they really are), so I went for the Magicforce. Options are a little more open in the cheaper boards if you like blue switches, but then that depends on your budget. There's a CoolerMaster on that list now with PBT keycaps, which might make it a really sweet deal if it's in your price range and you like the way it looks. I feel like I'm opening the wormhole now^please^stop^me^help

It might be easiest to start narrowing it down by switch type first, then aesthetics, staying in whatever your price range is.

> Are there any other PCBs that have hotswappable sockets? (That isn't the GK64 because I don't like the non-standard stagger, ortho is fine but a completely new stagger that isn't used on any other keyboard.

Bare pcbs? I know lfkeyboards has a few now. Pricey but unique.

> Can I buy any 60% keyboard case for the XD75RE? I want to see if I can get a wooden case. The reason why I am asking this is because on the product page it says that it's possible to use any GH60 case with the pcb in using their shim conditions and I don't know what that means.

Technically it has the mount points but getting it in there is a clusterfuck that results in either a wobbly board or having to shim and cut switches. IMO its way too much work and you are much better off going with a case designed for the board.

> I want to have the layout that has the longer spacebar keys but this is the only plate that I found: https://kprepublic.com/collections/xd75re/products/stainless-steel-plate-for-xd75re-60-custom-keyboard-mechanical-keyboard-plate-support-xd75re and I'm pretty sure that this is only for the only 1u layout. Is there another plate available that I haven't found yet?

What do you mean longer spacebar? Like 6.25? Not going to happen with this grid layout. Some people use point of sale style keycaps as spacebars which is one 2u or 3u keycap that occupies multiple switches. It obviously makes it harder to press because you have resistance of multiple switches.

> Will this keycap set be fine for the XD75RE? https://novelkeys.xyz/products/blue-grey-xda-keycap-set If not, can you recommend a different keycap set for it?

If you are ok with legends not matching for modifiers its ok. Otherwise seek out ortho specific sets and build on them with something like a numpad or blanks.

> What kind of cable does the XD75RE need? It doesn't specify it on the product page.

mini usb

> Do I need stabilizers if I find a plate for the longer spacebar layout? If so will a standard cherry stabilizer kit cover it? And is this lube fine for stabilizers? (I will probably buy it anyways for future builds) https://www.amazon.com/Finish-Line-Extreme-Fluoro-Syringe/dp/B002L5UL92

XD75re doesnt use stabilizers.

> Is there anything I'm missing? I already know I need a case, plate, pcb, stabilizers (if necessary), lube for stabilizers, switches (I already have a bunch of loose switches), keycaps, and a cable? Sorry if this was really long, this is my first time buying custom parts and I don't want to mess it up.

Make sure the switches are all new and have never been previously soldered because that can harm the sockets.

Hey guys I originally wanted to get a ducky one 2 mini but found the GH60 GK61 just now and now want to know where I should buy the switches and keycaps. I think i want red switches but I would love to get some custom keycaps are there any good sites/artist/products I can get?

And do you know any cheap 60% custom keyboard case that has "feet" so I can elevate the keyboard as I wish?

OMFG! I should have bought another one! I can't believe they discontinued this!!! Why??? This switch style is the BEST! Christ, Allah Akbar, USED ones are selling for $400! https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00MY3S288/ref=dp_olp_used_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=used I'm going to take very very very good care of mine hehe.

Magicforce 68. They're $40-70 on Amazon. $40 for nonbacklit, $70 for backlit. Last I checked, reds weren't in stock but blues were and they're pretty nice for the price. I love mine. I use it at home sometimes for gaming.

Edit: They have one gateron red backlit left in stock.

GH60 (GK61) vs GMMK Compact, just buying the base. What are the main differences, besides software? Looking for a hot-swappable base and to program/hotkey the bottom right buttons as arrows, and I believe I've found the full switch-compat version of the GK61 here, rather than the optical version that seems to be every other listing.

Looks like the GK61 is USB-C, and supports 3 or 5-pin switches, and has a light board. But, FN cannot be moved (bad for arrows).

While the GMMK is Mirco-USB and only supports 3-pin, or 5-pin if you remove the legs, and a dark board with a metallic trim. The FN key can be swapped with Caps Lock, which should allow me to freely map the arrows to the bottom right 4 keys. I've heard the FN layer can't be adjusted, but I don't think I mind that too much.

---

They're roughly the same price, but I don't really see much else different - is it basically going to be if I value better arrow-key usage/mapping (GMMK) vs wider aftermarket compatibility with USB-C, and slightly wider switch support (GK61)?. I'm leaning towards GMMK for the functionality.

I was looking for the same thing and found the CM Storm Quickfire TK which does go over your budget but you can probably find a good deal on ebay. Also the Logitech G710+ is meant to be good but again goes a bit over your budget.


Other than that, listen to everyone else here and get the Magicforce 68 which is far cheaper and has better value.

Nope, I just assumed you have some type of Amazon gift card or credit. Maybe you have limited purchasing power, who knows. Anyway, here are a few very valid options for you:

iKBC F108 Slightly out of price range, but will be the best option I am going to list here. PBT stock caps, $90 USD

MagicForce 108 $70USD and has gateron black switches (smoother than cherry, but slightly more wobble)

MagicForce 68 $60USD and really good if you like smaller form factors

Drevo Gramr $40 USD with Outemu blacks. Not the best switch, but people rank them among cherry and gateron and they are much cheaper. Smaller layout but not as small as the Magic Force 68.

I really like the look of the CM Masterkeys, it looks great, has positive reviews and is within my price point, so I might get that. But nonetheless, I still want the software question to be answered for people who got into my situation.
Thanks for the recommendations!

Quick Edit: It is within my price point in amazon as I posted this, here is the link:https://www.amazon.com/MasterKeys-Mechanical-Keyboard-Intelligent-Switches/dp/B01D8ETGJ0?th=1

https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-Extra-Thin-Switches-Rollover/dp/B0722GG88M You will not be able to swap caps, but that will be the closest to scissor switches.

​

Rubber domes, and even scissor switches are a type of rubber dome, have a tactile feeling at the start of your press. Browns are probably closer in feel, but have a lot more travel than any scissor switch. You can buy a Coolermaster Masterkeys S PBT within budget off Amazon, then buy some nice caps, but the feel will be different from a laptop keyboard. Many of us get a second keyboard just to use with our laptops just so we do not have to use the laptop keyboard. An Anne Pro 2 is a pretty good wireless model.

On a compact layout keyboard like this (or this), the F-keys are usually on an alternate layer so the top row in this case is standard numerals followed by the minus and equals. The F-keys are accessed in combination with the Func key to the right of the space bar. The rest of the bottom row is made up of standard Ctrl, Win (OS), and Alt keys, albeit with symbolic legends instead of printed ones.

Programmability comes in varying degrees, with some as limited as just swapping some of the bottom row keys via dip-switches on the underside of the board. Some like the popular POK3R allow reassigning of most key functions via a series of keystrokes after entering a built-in programming mode. Many of the more popular kit-built boards that show up here allow complete programmability via firmware flashing on the on-board controller.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07JVMBMNK?pf_rd_p=330fbd82-d4fe-42e5-9c16-d4b886747c64&pf_rd_r=JQ2PEBJEWVYXV63RRHPJ

​

Something like this could be ideal, means you can choose decent Switches for her little hands to use and is just alphas and modifiers affordable and well reviewed I'd recommend it for sure, and its got goodies such as usb-c and RGB fun stuff tbf

I'm currently looking for a full-sized mechanical keyboard with brown (preferably cherry) switches and either blue or rgb lighting. After looking around for a while it seems that the corsair k70 rgb would probably be the best I could buy, however this is an expensive keyboard and I would like something cheaper if possible. Can anyone recommend a keyboard that meets my requirements for a more reasonable price?

Also, I found this keyboard while looking around on amazon, it offers knockoff brown switches and blue lighting for a fraction of the cost of other options.

https://www.amazon.com/Velocifire-Mechanical-Keyboard-Illuminated-Anti-ghosting/dp/B01M0QEYR4/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1484552878&sr=1-3&keywords=mechanical+keyboard+brown

The thing I'm worried about if the quality, I'd like to know what anyone thinks about this keyboard and if it's worth it.

Thanks.

Das Keyboard 4: http://www.daskeyboard.com/daskeyboard-4-professional/#/awesome-products

Logitech G710+: http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Mechanical-Keyboard-Tactile-High-Speed/dp/B009C98NPY

Logitech G910: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/logitech-g910-orion-spark-mechanical-gaming-keyboard/9163008.p?id=1219398147781&skuId=9163008

/u/fauxsoul already mentioned the Corsair K-series -- and I think that mostly covers them, outside of some of the more knockoff brands. The Media wheel will definitely be the hardest thing to find -- it's just not that common, from what I've seen. A popular solution around these parts seems to be external jog dials -- something like the Belkin Powermate: http://store.griffintechnology.com/powermate

Hope that helps!

>The wireless connection only worked for up to 1.5 metres or so

Yeah, the 2.4 GHz band is typically very polluted these days. I get the same limitation from my Logitech Unifying Receiver. In my home theater I ended up running an active USB extension cable closer to my seats and attaching a USB hub back there. My HID dongles are plugged in across the room from my actual PC. I cheated. :)

​

>One LED (one of the F-functions) didn't display red and there didn't correctly display the RGB colours.

Hey, I think I saw your Amazon review. You're famous! Mine doesn't suffer this issue. But the Sink87G is dirt cheap in the mech keyboard world. I guess one is more likely to encounter a lemon in the sub $100 price range, as you and I both have experienced.

​

Edit: I just received my replacement Sink87G. As far as I can tell, it's free of defects this time. Still needs a little break-in, but I see no non-working LEDs, and all the keys work as intended.

​

>I didn't find it that much better to type/game on than a 'normal' keyboard.

This hobby is definitely a solution to a first world problem. I'm old enough to remember when buckling spring keyboards were common. First time I used a membrane keyboard in a computer lab, my first impression was "wtf was done to this poor keyboard?" I switched computers and was horrified to find they were all that spongy and obstinate. Of course, I've used some truly horrible keyboards in my time -- the kind where, if you saw them, you'd wonder if the girl whose water broke at that workstation made it to the hospital in time. Using something so horrible really makes one appreciate the finer things.

If you grew up with membranes, then you probably consider it normal punching the keys until they bottom out. That's completely understandable. And modern membranes have improved, some incorporating a tactile snap reminiscent of what you probably felt with your Outemu Browns. I'm not surprised you didn't find the experience a profound improvement.

Of course among mech keyboard fans, there are many who do not like brown switches, but instead prefer linear reds or clicky blues, stiffer linear blacks, vintage Alps, or Filco buckling springs. I bet if you got a keyboard with red switches and practiced for a day or two typing without bottoming out, you might come to appreciate the speed benefit over your Microsoft keyboard.

Hey, I wonder if you'd like low profile switches, something like the Havit HV-KB395L (low profile blues) or this Magic Refiner MK10 (low profile reds)? They've got less travel than typical mechs, and may feel more familiar while still an improvement over your Microsoft keyboard.

Anne pro 2, most custom builds, a lot of pok3r and vortex keyboards. honestly it would be best to have a custom build, like this one and you just get get switches on novelkeys or somewhere like that to test out multiple switches and see what you like.

I just found that this lube is cheaper than the super lube, and pretty widely used. As for the stabilizers, this stuff seems pretty good.

Here's a video of me cleaning and putting the whole thing back together. And, yes, it still works.

The two plastic body pieces were soaked for 24 hours before scrubbing it down. The lube used in the video for the plastic contact points as well as the trackball rollers is Finish Line Extreme Fluoro.

A big thanks to my friend /u/jfgorski for the Alphagrip iGrip! Read his opinion on the device right here, he's been using these things for years and has much more insight than I could ever provide. Also, thanks to /u/ripster55 for letting me post this here.

There are new low-profile switches that came out recently from Cherry and Kailh, and they sound like what you want. There isn't a lot of board selection yet though. If you can tolerate the noise of blue switches, I think you'd like this one for $50:

https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-Extra-Thin-Switches-HV-KB390L/dp/B0722GG88M/

I'm using a Noppoo Choc Mini with 35g Gateron Clears, and that sounds like another option. Super light switches (the lightest you can buy), no scratchiness at all, but the keycaps are a bit tall compared to chiclets. It's about $60, I tried finding a link for that one but it looks like Newegg is out of stock now.

By the way, there are lots of people who feel similarly about chiclets. I type fast (~130wpm) and play Starcraft 2 competitively, and haven't found anything that works as well for me as an old ThinkPad membrane keyboard, despite a tour of mech keyboards. Am hoping these low profile switches will work for me, but blues are too noisy.

Not sure if these are technically meant for a keyboard, and you won't be able to tell someone the exact size rating (in terms of the Cherry MX o-ring thicknesses from the pic I linked) but they're pretty cheap, there are more than enough for a full size keyboard, and they're what I used on my BW Ultimate: Amazon Link.

You need a keycap puller (or a way to get keycaps off) if you don't have one, but those are pretty cheap and easy to find.

Got the keyboard for about $40 here. Keycaps are from Mechanical Keyboards here.

They feel a lot heavier than I'm used to. My main board at home is a CM Masterkeys Pro TKL with ABS (I think?) keycaps. These almost feel too light now, but the PBTs feel a little too heavy and coarse.

If you're looking for a cheap full, real mechanical board, the one I got for work is a solid option. Brown switches. Feels pretty great. Has a dim blue backlighting.

https://smile.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-Backlight-Magicforce-Qisan/dp/B01HHTFSIK/ref=pd_sbs_147_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01HHTFSIK&pd_rd_r=VZVNNGJ7DV3WS6JXW6Z6&pd_rd_w=YeYVm&pd_rd_wg=cWwlS&psc=1&refRID=VZVNNGJ7DV3WS6JXW6Z6

I know it has keycaps, but the price is rather good, the build is quite nice, it has Gateron Brown switches, and it'd look really good with Miami.

If you want a good inexpensive intro board with metal case, I really like my Teamwolf Zhuque TKL. It comes with decent Outemu switches but they're hot-swappable so you can throw in a huge variety of switches without soldering. (I put Zealios in mine and absolutely love it.)

I highly recommend Hako Clears.

The tactile bump is very clear and high, giving a topre-like feel and a nice meaty cushion at the bottom.

I upgraded from cherry browns and it's like night and day, especially after I lubed both the stems (with [finish line extreme flouro teflon grease](Finish Line Extreme Fluoro 100% DuPont Teflon Grease, 20g Syringe https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002L5UL92/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0TYtDb4EZ5ED3)) and the springs (with [dupont silicone lubricant](DuPont Teflon Silicone Lubricant Squeeze Bottle, 4 Oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BCVXUVM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ESYtDbT85X5A5)).

The extra work is 100% recommended for the smoothest tactile action I've ever felt.

> only switch better for fps IMO is the Gateron clear

im being a comment necromancer, but im looking at a new keyboard since my deck 82 left shift key finaly broke after 10+ years..

im looking at this with the clear

http://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-GATERON-Magicforce-Qisan/dp/B01E57PW7Y/ref=pd_sim_sbs_147_4?ie=UTF8&dpID=41vZKXXj2EL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0CHM8XW9FJ4EQBHW58RW

or this with the red

http://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-GATERON-Magicforce-Qisan/dp/B01E57PXKA?ie=UTF8&keywords=gateron%20red%20switches&qid=1465427592&ref_=sr_1_8&sr=8-8

or maybe this for a bit more for the red
http://www.amazon.com/Rantopad-MXX-Mechanical-Gaming-Keyboard/dp/B01B7I384S?ie=UTF8&redirect=true&ref_=s9_acsd_hps_bw_c_x_1

can you tell me why the clear is your fav?

fyi the deck used black switches.

This keyboard has basically the same switches as the new Tesoro gram, these are Kailh ML switches. They have 3mm of travel compared to normal switches 4mm.

I own one of these and honestly it's pretty amazing, it's way better than I was expecting.

Alternatively, a KBD75 with Kailh speeds would work for you too.

2011

>Gaming on Logitech k740 keyboard for a year bored a perfect circle through the keycap, they were low profile and cheap. Guess the rubberish stem was stronger than the plastic cap. Got another kb, happen again, got another, again.... bleh.
 

2013

>Frustrated, I upgraded to Logitech G710+ cherry mx brown, first tasted of mech keeb, this time a hole didn't bore through, but keycap faded & chipped. Logitech support sent replacement caps, faded again. https://i.imgur.com/CqPLX9K.jpg
 

2016

>Discovered a better world at /r/MechanicalKeyboards upgraded to doubleshot PBT backlit keycaps on a Vortex Pok3r RGB. Never had problems again. Love it so much I bought several more pok3r. Then many more keycap sets.
 

2019

>Earlier this month took my next step and built from scratch via Kbdfans Tofu 60 kit. Learned of so many switches, mods and etc. This subreddit is bad for my pocket. I'm already eye'ing a RAMA keeb.....

Ok Cool. I picked up this one for work with brown switches just for fun. I need dat number pad.

Yea, I texted my buddy in the cube next to mine and I'm like, "I found a $34 mechanical keyboard on Amazon. Would it annoy you with 'loud" keys blasting next door to you all day? They are blue switches. You will hear every letter I type on Reddit."

He replied, "Nerd. Has to be super loud."

That's when I order the brown switches.

Ok, you will for sure want MX Blues or MX Greens then. I will post some links to ones that I think you would be interested in.

Ducky One I have this board but in browns and I like it a lot.

Filco

CM Storm Quickfire this one has MX greens which are
clicky but need more force to be pressed.

^Wrong link. Click the green one.

Rosewill This one is more of a budget starter.

Corsair Strafe this is probably one of the more popular brands especially for gamers.

Corsair K70

Story time... I've had this Filco with blues for awhile and never done anything to it. A few months ago I picked up a CODE with clears and my poor Filco sat abandoned and unloved. Recently, Massdrop did a group buy for Ducky PBT caps and I decided it was time to breathe some new life back into my Filco. I wanted to bring it back to work so I also took the opportunity to install some o-ring dampeners (Amazon, non-referral).

I love the keycaps, they feel great -- I'm a big fan of the texture. The o-rings make a big difference for me because I always bottom out. The one's I ordered from Amazon are a hybrid of the two offered by WASD because I wanted a harder ring with less travel reduction. If you're wishing your blues were a little quieter these are great o-rings.

Here are some good (in my opinion, others may recommend others/not these) starter boards that are generally well received around here, complete with Amazon links to actually buy them (complete versions). For key caps, you're going to want to look to the more boutique sites like Massdrop or PimpMyKeyboard .

• Pok3r Non-LED 60%

• Pok3r RGB LED 60%

• Coolermaster CM Storm TKL

• Das Keyboard Model S

• Ducky Shine RGB

• Magicforce 68 with LED

hakko fx-888D is my current iron. Costs a pretty penny but if you're going to be doing a lot of work it's great. It's digital, so it regulates temperature instead of power, and you can cycle between custom temperature presets or set it to whatever temperature you feel like. the nibs are a bit expensive compared to the shitty iron I had before it, but they also last a lot longer; also I got a combo deal on amazon for like 10 nibs for 15 bucks when I bought the iron

only downside is it looks like a fisher price toy

I was wondering if I could get any keyboard recommendations at around $100 or less for a 60% or 80% keyboard (I only care about escape and arrow keys for 80%) with cherry MX reds or browns, or if someone could give a little input on the two I am looking at getting at the moment. I am choosing between this and this at the moment. Any input one way or another, or for another keyboard entirely is appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Unfortunately, I believe MK.com is the only retailer (at least in the US) that sells newer Ducky boards. Your best bet is to try to find one on /r/mechmarket, find one on a site like eBay, wait for them to replenish stock on MK.com, or buy one of the other One TKL with Red switch boards they have (though I believe the only in stock ones have LEDs).

EDIT: Sorry, missed the second part of your question... there's definitely other TKL boards with red switches out there... provided your budget is around the same, have you tried taking a look at the CM Quickfire TKL? It's a pretty good board and comes with Cherry switches.

So in one country Blackwidows are more expensive than other boards?

In the land of the free and the home of the brave, The TKL is about $70, the Expert is $80-$90, and the Ultimate is $110-$120. Older versions are cheaper than that.

>And it's not tons, it's Razer, Corsair, certain CM's(which can support normal bottom row if you don't mind weird gaps) and one Noppoo model versus all other mechanical keyboards(excluding weird reduced layouts with stuff like 5.5 spacebars or 1,75 right Shifts).

Lets see we have:

Adesso


Func

Gamdias

Gigabyte

Logitech

MSI

Max

QUMAX

Roccat

Rosewill

SIIG

Thermaltake

Topre

Matias

And at least a handful of others I'm not remembering.

And why would being able to 1.25x caps with gaps be limited to Cooler Master?

>>*KRO means the SMALLEST number of keys that can be pressed from ALL possible combinations. For example the, as you've called it, "6KRO" BW2013 fails with ZXC or any combo with three(even two in some cases) arrows plus anything else, as confirmed by geekhack fellows.

Source.

And why is that even important? In what situation are you putting your face on your keyboard and needing keys to register?

45 Gateron Blues, TKL, Red LEDS


60 Magicforce, 68K, alot of people like this one.

40 To be honest never heard of this one, huge bezel, "blue" switches, and just 40$.

70 QFR, Genuine Cherry blue switches, TKL, great board all around

65 Genuine Cherry TKL

Hey guys, I'm looking for a typing and gaming keyboard around $100- $130.

Heres my preferences:

Somewhat quiet

MX Browns

backlighting (would love multi-color, but idk at this price point)

Num-pad + Macro Keys

So far these keyboards interest me:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823567013&cm_re=mx_brown-_-23-567-013-_-Product
http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Mechanical-Keyboard-Tactile-High-Speed/dp/B009C98NPY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1456949717&sr=8-2&keywords=g710

Any recommendations would be much appreciated.

Ducky Shine 6, Ducky One TKL RGB
Cooler Master MasterKeys Pro S, Cooler Master MasterKeys Pro L
iKBC F87, iKBC F108

Not sure if these are the best prices for these keyboards, so if you like one, you might want to search around to see if there are better prices before making a purchase.

If you can get it I would recommend the KUL ES 87 it's about 144 CAD on elitekeyboards, and it's solidly build, highly recommended all over this sub.
https://elitekeyboards.com/products.php?sub=keyed_up_labs,tenkeyless&pid=es87u_cl_bbb_al

If you can't source that then your other option may be the Coolermaster Quick Fire Rapid, which will come in at a lower price, and still is solidly built.
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B007VDLVD4/

The Corsair Strafe is another really good option and will be a pretty good upgrade from your blackwidow, and looks like it's on sale on amazon.ca.
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00ZUPOMDQ/

EEk. I really can't recommend anything sub $50 on amazon except this but I would much rather go with their Gateron switches which runs $62. For other options, I can recommend this sale. It's not the prettiest, but it's a fantastic board for $20 more that will last you forever. These last two although cost more, would actually have resale value if you wanted to put it on ebay or mechmarket.

Hey guys,
I'm fairly new to mechs, but from the ones I tried out, I really like Cherry MX Browns (Reds and Blacks aren't my thing and I haven't tried Blues, but those are probably out of the question as I live in a dorm). I've been looking to buy a board with the following requirements:

• I don't really want to spend more than 70€ (I'm a broke student), shipping included
  
• I want it to be tenkeyless (meaning no Magicforce, even though it looks quite good)
  
• It has to be available in Europe (I specifically live in Slovakia, but Germany would do as I do have methods to get a parcel to here from there)
  
• ANSI layout is a plus, as it's easier to get keycaps imo, as well as a backlight, preferably white or RGB.
  
  I've been looking at the Drevo Tyrfing (or maybe even Gramr) with Outemu Browns, but from what I've seen on this sub, some people say the switches are okay and some think they're really bad. Is it a good choice for the price? Or is there a better option?
  
  edit: linked keebs to US Amazon

If you want clicky, the Poseidon Z seems to be a fine option. My brother-in-law bought one the other day and loves it so far.

If you want TKL with macros and you're fine with red switches, check out the Monoprice macro keyboard.

If you want something big and bulky with browns (and o-rings!), look into the Logitech G710+. It semi-frequently goes on sale for $100, occasionally less. A friend of mine absolutely swears by his.

You should try a 75% since that layout has become pretty standard in recent years.

Budget:

• Drevo Gramr
  
  Mid-range:
  
  
• Keycool 84
  
• MK84
  
• Drevo Excalibur
  
  High end (custom):
  
  
• KBD75 (pretty easy to find right now since a huge GB just shipped)
  
• RS84
  
• AMJ84 (hard to find here in the US but was run primarily on TaoBao)
  
• TriC 84
  
• B.Mini
  
• C.mini (aka b.fake mini or ps2avrgb 75%)
  
• GON MX Mini
  
  Super high end:
  
  
• TX75
  
• Duck Octagon V1 and V2
  
  
  --
  
  Here's a 75% that I'm currently using: http://imgur.com/a/DMMql

Like I said those issues could have been completely fixed now, I never looked more into it because the looks don't appeal to me and I don't use macros. Amazon had it on sale for $95 and free shipping a day or two ago but it looks like it is at $110 now, still has free shipping though.

Just to add on to what /u/QuantumCakeIsALie mentioned, in the case of desoldering, a good tool is the best investment.

If you don't want to be holding a pump in one hand, with a desoldering iron in the other, you can consider getting this.

Highly recommend upgrading. I was like you, then I got this (link below), and my whole quality of life improved. Girls even like me now!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008DJRYIG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've used these they are pretty good, you can get free 2 day shipping too if you have Amazon Prime. Currently out of stock at the moment though.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FMWLR8/

aaaaand if you like that style of keyboard the Magicforce 68 is a pretty good budget alternative:

https://www.amazon.com/Qisan-Mechanical-Backlight-Cable-Black-Magicforce/dp/B017N5SH6S

Comes available in white as well and with different switch options, so make sure you know what kind of switch you want to use before you pull the trigger.

I’m in the same boat as you, just want the best quality. I was doing some looking around recently and I came across this middle of the road iron, has a lot of great reviews. Isn’t the best, isn’t the worst. This is what I’m aimin for!

Hakko FX888D-23BY Digital Soldering Station FX-888D FX-888 (blue & yellow) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ANZRT4M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KP11BbBJPKH4S

Logitech G710

• White backlight
  
• Dedicated media keys
  
  Not sure if you're okay with the extra macro keys - it's pretty hard to find small mechanical keyboards with dedicated media keys. You won't find any tenkeyless boards with dedicated ones. Any reason you have a problem with using FN keys?

I have a [Velocifire VM01] (https://www.amazon.com/Velocifire-Mechanical-Keyboard-Illuminated-Anti-ghosting/dp/B01M0QEYR4/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day-secondary&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499795294&sr=1-1&keywords=mechanical+keyboard) (also on Prime day sale in the US) with OUTEMU browns and it's quite decent, however it is my first mech and I have no experience with higher quality switches, but it was quite the jump with respect to my previous keyboard.

I've been looking for a second smaller keyboard and the Magicforce 68 seems like a good deal, but it's also on Massdrop for $42 with different switches... so I'm not sure which one is best...

Well the main differences are

| Magicforce | Masterkeys
---|---|---
Switch | Gateron | Cherry
Lighting | White | RGB
Media keys | Dedicated | With Fn modifier
Cable | Non-removable | Removable
Macro keys | With Fn | 4x dedicated
Software | No | Yes
Price | $69.99 | $87.21

I have no idea what kind of switch you want, but I compared browns because I didn't see the magicforce 108 with a different switch option. I also don't know if the masterkeys rebate will work for you if you're in Canada or even if the pricing is the same so that's something you'll have to look up.

Personally I would purchase the masterkeys, but that's mostly because I have a Pro S and I've been really happy with it.

For you, you'll have to see if any of the main differences are selling points for you. If anyone sees any differences I missed please comment.

Doing my first build and keep hearing about solder temperature. What is a good temperature for soldering switches on a board. Solder i'll be using looks to be [this] (https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B00ANZRT4M/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1520171074&sr=8-4&keywords=hakko+solder)

I appreciate any other soldering guidance as well.

Thanks for any replies!

Have had K70 with Reds for a year looking for another RGB board with brown or blue switches. Reds just don't give me that satisfying click when i have to type essays for school.

Great for gaming though. Also would like it to be 80% or without number pad as another drawback with the K70 is it takes it up a lot of space

Looking at these 2 keyboards: http://www.ebay.com/itm/302191575786?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

https://www.amazon.com/MasterKeys-Mechanical-Keyboard-Intelligent-Switches/dp/B01D8ETGJ0/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8&coliid=I10XOW3A55S934&colid=FOQVSB0TG42G&th=1

Matias Quiet Pro is a good choise for both cost and the variety of boards. They're very quiet, not too expensive, there's a Mac version, they have a tactile feel and there is a 100% and a small version.

There's the Cooler Master Novatouch that costs a bit more, has a lower actuation force, you can change the keycaps later on and it has a TKL layout so if you're using the numberpad a lot, you should probably go for the Matias Quiet Pro. ¨

If you want the premium stuff there's the Topre Realforce boards. They are expensive, comes in regular 100% layout and TKL layout, there's a version where the keys on the board has different weights on them so from 30-45g. for better ergonomics, there's also a version that's a bit more quieter to believe it or not and it comes in black or white.

EDIT: Noticed that you wanted a small board, so the Matias Mini Quiet Pro and the G84 is probably the two best mechanical boards to get.

yeah the nixeus looks like a good option.

I am looking to get them from amazon so that would be fine. I am also looking at this Drevo Gramr which looks pretty good, but I also can't tell if it's standard.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H6DHITE

I mean as you said, it looks standard from most keys but I am not sure about the keys on the right side for the home, del, page up, etc. Seems like they would be, just in a different position. It's the same layout on my laptop keyboard too.

For stabs (stab housing/stem) your best bet is krytox 205, you can get a half oz tube for 20 bucks on amazon.. That is going to yield better results, trust me..

205 is also amazing on linears.. I wouldnt use anything less or any other brand, especially a 'custom mix' that has oil mixed in...oil doesnt last as long.. you want grease because it doesnt have the fluidity of oil, lasts much longer..

https://www.amazon.com/Chemours-Krytox-Grease-Pure-PFPE/dp/B00MWLDALQ/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=krytox+205&qid=1555994639&s=gateway&sr=8-3

For tactiles/clicky 202-204 depending on spring weight

https://www.amazon.com/Krytox-Grease-Pure-PFPE-PTFE/dp/B00MWLDCKA/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=krytox+204&qid=1555994880&s=gateway&sr=8-3

For the stab bar inserts

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-6PK-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=permatex&qid=1555994695&s=gateway&sr=8-9&th=1

Take a look at this one, I'm using it right now at work. Its no frills, but has genuine cherry switches, nice minimal design, and standard layout.

Rosewill RK-9000

I got browns because I'm using it at the office. Blues are the way to go if this is for a home setup, light enough to not tire your fingers during long gaming sessions, but with great tactility that makes typing a lot nicer. Disclaimer, blues will annoy girlfriends/wives cause they are a lil loud.

If this had been out when I got into this hobby, I am sure I would have bought 3 of these Drevo Gramrs. One for work, home, and on the go.

The 65% layout is my favorite and thus the TADA68/RS68 are my favorite boards I own. But if that $45, 75% keyboard had been out 2 years ago, I would have been fine with that extra row on top and all in with boards at $135. Leaving more money for the custom keysets.

I currently have one of those Gramrs and they work just fine. Getting to know the Fn layer is the kicker with any layout, but if you use that same one everywhere then you are good to go.

What do you guys think of this cheaper board?

https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Doubleshot-Velocifire-Illuminated-Anti-ghosting/dp/B01M0QEYR4/ref=sr_1_3/145-0838380-3957206?ie=UTF8&qid=1504016692&sr=8-3&keywords=mechanical+keyboard+brown

Was interested in something simple, inexpensive, and brown. I'm a mech newbie and this will be my first Mech keyboard (minus the nice old ones I used growing up). Seems to have good reviews and I've read the Outemu switches are decent for the money?

Would recommend buying separate PBT blanks or something, will be cheaper and better. Cheapest solution is to get a Rosewill RK9000V2 for $75 (or any other fullsize board like a Ducky One, Quickfire XT etc.), and a set of NPKC PBT Blanks for $33.

How about the Magicforce-68? I got mine from Massdrop a week ago and love it, and someone here found them on Amazon too

I'm not sure what switches they have though one there, but there's a white and black version. I love having the arrow keys slightly offset too so they're easy to feel for.

USD 150 is a very good budget, you need to get some reliable and proper tool.

Soldering iron: https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B00ANZRT4M/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1523249667&sr=8-3&keywords=hakko+888

Solder: https://www.amazon.com/Kester-24-6337-0027-Solder-Alloy-Diameter/dp/B0149K4JTY/ref=sr_1_4?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1523249737&sr=1-4&keywords=kester+63%2F37

Cleaning wire: https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-599-029-Replacement-Insert-Cleaner/dp/B00Q88Q1ZG/ref=sr_1_2?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1523249854&sr=1-2&keywords=hakko+brass+wire

Helping hand (Optional ) https://www.amazon.com/SE-MZ101B-Helping-Magnifying-Glass/dp/B000RB38X8/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1523249902&sr=1-1&keywords=soldering+helping+hands

I have one and honestly I don't really care for it. The keys feel sort of "wobbly" and make a hollow sound when I press them.

I have a Havit low profile mech (https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-Extra-Thin-Switches-Rollover/dp/B0722GG88M) that feels much better, though it obviously doesn't reach feature parity with the Keychron. That's one area in which the Keychron has just about everyone beat -- Bluetooth, Cabled, Windows MacOS, it's very flexible. It's a very visually attractive keyboard as well, IMO

Both have metal plates with plastic cases. Most mechanical keyboards do unless you go custom. I would say that the quality is about the same.

I am assuming you are going with blue switches? Most blue knockoff switches feel about the same. They are likely Outemu Blue switches, but it can be some obscure blue switches. Whatever it may be, they won't feel that different from Outemu Blues, which feel pretty decent for a knockoff switch in my opinion. If you get Gateron, consider yourself lucky since they are smoother than any other switch brands.

The RK61 is not hotswappable if I recall correctly.

If you want hot swappability, you should look into the GK61/iGK61. They are not that much more expensive than the ones you listed and they offer hot swappability, USB-C, and RGB backlighting.

https://www.amazon.com/Independent-Mechanical-Keyboard-Plastic-Aluminum/dp/B07JVMBMNK

I have these because I think paying $20 for orings is retarded. Typing is fine, maybe just less enjoyable, but still a lot nicer than my old keyboards. It really prevented the ping I used to get from bottoming out, but I feel they are a lot less useful now that I type properly and don't slam the keys.

WASD Keyboards the blue ones will dampen sound the most.

Max Keyboard

Amazon. Both WASD Keyboards and Max Keyboard also has O-rings on Amazon. Free shipping on Max Keyboard's O-rings and Amazon Prime on WASD Keyboards' red O-rings (blues are out of stock).

I honestly wouldn't bother with eBay unless if you want the buyer protection.

Sweet. DOETT!

For desoldering the old switches (and diodes), I'd recommend this: http://amzn.to/2EWtuLJ it has worked well for me.

I'd recommend that when you install diodes on the new PCBs (if you do new PCBs) that you install them on the opposite side of the PCB as the switches.

The Hakko FX888D is going to be what the majority of people that comment here will point you to, with good reasons. Price may be a bit high but this thing will see you through all your hobbies that require soldering, honestly there is nothing bad I can say about the unit besides the fact that it’s ugly AF 😂

Weller WE1010 is what I’m currently using (Gave Hakko away to my brother) As far as I can tell there is no noticeable difference between the two, with the same heat up time, performance, etc. one thing is that this doesn’t come with a brass tip cleaner like the Hakko so you’d have to get one yourself.

Switches: If you're leaning towards Cherry MX switches but are still unsure of which ones you prefer, you can get a switch tester that includes red, black, brown, clear, blue, and green switches, as well as O-rings.

No matter which of switch you choose, it will still produce some noise, due to the key caps bottoming out. If you prefer a long-term keyboard with switches that produce tactile feedback, such as browns, blues, greens, etc., but are worried about the noise, you can get O-rings like these.

Which switch? I also code for lengthy periods of time and would prefer typing with something that produces tactile feedback, like either browns or blues. But since you have roommates, maybe browns would be better... unless they don't mind the click-clack noise, then get the blues since they're more satisfactory to type with. Heavy typer? Maybe you'll prefer greens since they require more force.

Keyboards: Of the keyboards you've narrowed down to, the Das or K70 are good. There're also the non-RGB K70s with single color LEDs that are cheaper than the ones with RGBs and come in red and brown switches.

I've owned the K70s with red LEDs and red switches and currently own the Ducky Minis with green switches. The LEDs on my K70 lasted throughout the time I've used it (< 2 years), but a friend's K70 had some that stopped working several months after use :/ I eventually sold the K70 and prefer green switches and a 60% mechKB since it's more portable.

It's a good board, nothing fancy but it works well, I don't really like flashy, showy things anyways.

Both of mine have MX Clear switches and the original has o-rings and PBT blacked out caps.

You had the optical version selected which limits your switch use a ton. You're probably looking for this -

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JVMBMNK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hnElDbRTDRBCW

And i would recommend pcb mounts on any hotswap that supports it like the gk61. It keeps them much more secure

I'm looking to buy a good but cheap tenkeyless with browns. Can be cherries or gaterons, I actually prefer gateron browns. Massdrop is having a drop on a nice looking one but I really don't want to have to wait until March for it to show up.

https://www.massdrop.com/buy/magicforce-82-key-mechanical-keyboard

I did find this one on Amazon, but it's quality looks questionable, and it's definitely not a standard sizing for the rows. Thoughts? I'd like to spend under $70.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H6DHITE/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1MRPHNGA69Q4E&coliid=IYSBU5VATPDLW&psc=1

Does anyone actually own the Magic Force (Gateron Brown Switch 108 key) keyboard? There don't seem to be many reviews online and I am reluctant to buy it because of that. It looks awesome and I would like some input from an owner. Thanks!

https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-Backlight-Magicforce-Qisan/dp/B01HHTFSIK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482782103&sr=8-1&keywords=qisan+108

This Havit with low-profile Kailh switches is ridiculous value for the price. Great key action with that click bar mechanism. I have one and think it’s great, even next to much pricier options. https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-Extra-Thin-Switches-HV-KB390L/dp/B0722GG88M

Best keyboard for writing?
https://www.amazon.es/dp/B01H6DHITE/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1UF8FPJ50T51M&coliid=I379MU9TTQJE2Q&psc=1
or
https://www.amazon.es/LESHP-Teclado-Mec%C3%A1nico-Disposici%C3%B3n-Espa%C3%B1ola/dp/B01M68VP6A/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1492687382&sr=8-4
Also, if I go with the first option, which switch would be better for typing: blue, red, black or brown?

I actually didn't have that problem with mine :/ My only problem was the stabs wobbling like crazy, but i'r pretty sure some nice lube will fix that. I got this from amazon. Probably wayyy too much for my needs but at least i know i will never run out haha

RK-9000V2 BR is probably one of the cheapest full size Cherry board. It's also 'office safe' since it looks just like a $10 regular keyboard. People rated it good for its solid build.

New here -- Clicked around to try to figure some of this stuff out but got lost.

I have a few questions:

1. I have a Noppoo Choco Mini with MX Cherry Red swiches seen here: https://www.amazon.com/Noppoo-84-Technology-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B0091QOCNA?th=1
   
   How good is this keyboard? General rating or comments would be cool. Is Cherry MX Red good for typing long essays/notes? I also have this: https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Mechanical-Keyboard-Tactile-High-Speed/dp/B009C98NPY -- Which I use for gaming/general purpose.
   
   I wanted to start using my noppoo again cause I have a few long essays coming up
   
   
2. I dont particularly like the feel of the standard keys that it comes with and was thinking about swapping them out for new keycaps. What are my options in texture for a full set of keys for this keyboard? Color scheme recommendation or is there any central hub where I can see all of my options?
   

Sans keycaps as in without keycaps. I actually just bought a keyboard I wasn't able to find any mx red keyboards I wanted in stock, but joined the massdrop for the Magicforce 68 with gateron reds.

Hope I like it!

Edit: Scratch that they don't ship til may 1st and want a keyboard before that. I have my eyes on this now,

https://www.amazon.ca/Cooler-Master-Storm-QuickFire-Rapid/dp/B007VDLVD4/ref=s9_simh_gw_g147_i2_r?pf_rd_m=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&pf_rd_s=&pf_rd_r=PCNQD1426G7STGYARK87&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=b06971ce-9992-44c1-9ee0-eb9792e71b5e&pf_rd_i=desktop

This board was posted earlier, super low profile, looks pretty nice. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0722GG88M

Most of these folks are right- blues are pretty noisy even with O-rings, but I will say that O-rings WILL quiet it down a bit. The bottoming out sound of the keycap is quite a bit louder than the actual switch actuating. A user here referred me to some cheap o-rings here that I quite like and would recommend, but it looks like they're not available at the moment. :/

Next time, please refer to the sticky! Here's the link. You should be able to find the information you need there.

But for less than $50, you can't build a board with that unfortunately. However there are a few boards out there that are pretty cheap such as Velocifire, or something like Techware Phantom. I've only ever heard good things about both of those companies/boards.

You're not going to find one I don't think. The main point of a tenkeyless keyboard is to save space. Why add a feature that works counter to the design goal?

That being said, your best option is probably the Cooler Master MasterKeys Pro S or the Ducky One TKL RGB (out of stock though). Both have volume controls in a function layer.

Well if it doesn't have to be Cherry Brown Here's this link to a very reputable china brand that uses (in my eyes) superior Gateron switches. Still browns and still very nice.

They're excellent. I'm loving the MX reds. All the keys are boobs except maybe stabilizer keys, but using ripster's guide to lubing and this, the pinging and movement did seem to improve.

Magic Force 68. Probably the closest fit to all of your criteria and I'm sure a lot of people will back me up in saying its an excellent starter board. https://www.amazon.com/Qisan-Mechanical-Backlight-Cable-Black-Magicforce/dp/B017N5SH6S

Here's every desoldering tool I've used so far, from worst to best:

1. The one that came with my soldering station: lasted a week before falling apart.
   
2. The one I bought from radioshack. Lasted 2 weeks before falling apart.
   
3. ECG J-045-DS: Awkward to use, doesn't suck very well, no temperature adjustment, takes a long time to heat up, sprays hot solder everywhere instead of solid chunks like with the non-powered pumps.
   
4. Tenma 21-8240: Recommended by someone on this sub. Has similar issues to the ECG, except it's far less awkward to use and it does have decent suction. However, the handle is poorly insulated so it gets pretty hot after a while.
   
5. Engineer SS-02: Biggest issue with this one is dry solder getting stuck in the silicone nozzle, but that's been happening less and less as I've used it more. Good suction, good construction, no need to use a second outlet.
   

The only one I can think of is the Logitech G710+, it has exactly everything you listed. The closest I can think of is the Corsair K70, although it doesn't come with brown switches AND blue/white LEDs.

EDIT: Found the Gigabyte Osmium, also has everything you listed, although I know nothing about it. Reviews seem good, whatever looks best to you.

https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-Extra-Thin-Switches-HV-KB390L/dp/B0722GG88M?th=1&psc=1

This is a newer keyboard and I love it. I'm getting it for a friend of mine. I do believe there is a full RGB version

Checked dozens (perhaps over 100 keyboards available, even nonCherry brown equivalents.

You can get a brown keyboard for $80, barely. Rosewill 9000V2 is available in brown right at $80 on Amazon. No backlight, no macro.

You can get backlight if you go with Kailh Browns. Tesoro and such make Kailh Brown gaming boards for about $70 on Amazon. No macro.

You can get macro, and backlight, but no mechanical, by getting "gaming keyboards". Corsair and Logitech have macro capable membrane keyboards for about $30-40.

If you MUST have macro, your best bet is Logitech G710+, $100 on Amazon. Everything you asked for... macro, backlight, cherry brown switch.

I bought a Rosewill RK-9000v2 a couple weeks ago for work and love it. Swapped the stock keys for a blank PBT set. I like it so much that I'm debating switching it with my main keyboard at home.

The price keeps fluctuating between ~$72 and ~$90 on this board.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S5E4KH2

If you post your preferences (Switch,RGB,Keyboard Size, etc) people may be able to help you more.

Someone posted an updated guide recently, but here's one from the Wiki:
https://www.reddit.com//r/MechanicalKeyboards/wiki/buying_guide

It gives a list of keyboards at different price ranges and shows the specifications of each.

As for Razer keyboards, the only one I had was a Lycosa from years ago. I spent $70 on what was pretty much the equivalent of a $8 HP keyboard with backlights. I can't say much about their newer mechanical ones though, but I tried out my sister's (Black Widow maybe?) and it didn't seem bad. I do prefer my MX Blues to whatever is in that keyboard though.

Edit: Sorry, no idea about the Ozone.

Just a technicality: generally, "tactile" means no click. Browns only make a sound when you bottom out the switch (When the key hits the backplate). Blues tend to feel similar to browns, but make a distinct click sound when pressed. So I suppose the switch choice is up to you.

The Magiforce tends to be a good entry-level board and cheaper in price than the one you presented: Magiforce 108 Brown Switch or Magiforce 108 Blue Switch. It also has standard key sizes which makes it easier to replace the keycaps in the future if you get into that.

Those o-rings would work. There are different o-rings, I personally have little experience using them. /u/lpwl made a comment in a post a while ago:


>- A thicker O-ring will reduce key travel more than a thinner one.

• A softer O-ring will make a switch quiet more effectively than a harder one.
  
• The more material the O-ring has, the more it can dampen shocks and noise.
  
  >In other words :
  
  >- If you want to quiet down the keyboard and soften the landing, get soft o-rings, ie in 40A or 50A durometer.
  
• If you want to quiet down the keyboard but keep a hard landing, get hard ones (70 - 90A durometer)... however their noise dampening won't be as good as the soft ones.
  
  Here's a good post on his website that goes more into depth about o-rings. And here's a post on Geekhack.
  
  If you want to skip reading all that then from what I've read the 40A-L Red O-Rings ($15) from WASD Keyboards is the most popular choice and Buna-N O-Ring 50A ($7). If you don't mind waiting a long time you can get o-rings on Ebay for $1.08, the measurements of this is very close to the red o-rings from WASD.

https://www.amazon.com/Rantopad-Chroma-Backlight-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B01N5NZ426
https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-GATERON-Magicforce-Qisan/dp/B01J708CCG
https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Mechanical-Keyboard-Switches-RK-9000V2/dp/B00S5E4KH2

I'd recommend the first two unless you need a numpad. It's better ergonomics not to have one. And if you do need it, this is a good compromise.

I use Gaterons for rhythm games, which is far more intensive use than will ever be encountered normally. Reliability isn't an issue. I would honestly recommend buying a GK61 in white from here and adding switches and the caps you were already planning on buying. The hotswap functionality gives you more flexibility with switches, and you don't pay for caps you won't use.

Then you should get a good soldering station. Hakko is a really good brand. Heres one of their soldering stations: http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Digital-Soldering-FX-888D/dp/B00ANZRT4M/ref=zg_bs_13837391_9
If thats more than what your willing to spend i've heard good things about the low end weller stations. doesn't have the highest wattage but it should be good enough for your purpose. Link: http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-Soldering-Hobbyist-Yourselfer/dp/B000AS28UC/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1305842734&sr=8-2-fkmr0

Rantopad MXX is what I recommend for a lot of people. This one uses Gateron blues which a lot of people here like, some people moreso than Cherry brand. Or if you want hotswappable switches to add Cherry switches down the road, then the Zhuque is a good choice

Got a soldering iron for Christmas and dove right in. This is my third 60% build, and by far my favorite.

Parts

• Clear acrylic case and Gat greens from Sentraq
  
• PCB from TechKeys
  
• Black aluminum plate and Cherry stabs from Originative
  
• DSA keycaps (PBT) from PMK
  
• LEDs from switchTop
  
• E-Projects 200 Ohm Resistors from Amazon
  
  

  Tools
  

• Solder sucker
  
• Heat Resistant Soldering Mat
  
• Hakko FX888D Soldering Station
  
• Kester 44 Rosin Core Solder 63/37 .031"
  
• Klein Tools Lightweight Flush Cutter
  
  I'm still tweaking my QMK keymap, but will contribute it to the repo once I get it to a good spot.
  

fuck yes i want pics. sounds like you almost went with dolch style color scheme.

nice price too. did you end up with brown switches?

o-rings can be really nice if you like to bottom out all the time. i do and it saves my fingers a lot of stress with my insane cave man style of key pounding.

i bought these on amazon. they seem nice enough.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051XWXCE/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

it is a nice quick little mod. it also allows me to use my board in my cubicle at work. but i use blues. you use browns? you might be able to use browns at an office or at school without disturbing people.

Logitech G710+ then. Red switches are linear (straight-down press, best for gaming), browns are tactile, and blues are clicky (pronounced bump + sound for better typing)

Yes works great with leds!

Tenma 21-8240 Vacuum Desoldering Iron https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008DJRYIG/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apap_4HuPH8htp6ZEX

Thanks for the suggestions.

I was looking on Amazon and found these two Magicforce keyboards. I tried combining your suggestions with the other user's suggestion for Gateron switches:

• Full size
  
• 60%
  
  Would you recommend these? They seem much cheaper than my previous one. Should I be concerned?

Lube makes the board quieter bar none. I used WASD keyboards lube the first time around, but I'm not too happy with it, so I'm going to use another lube next with the board, (this)[https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002L5UL92/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1] one, once I get all the way fed up with the performance on the WASD lube. I have hope for it yet. But either way lubed and ringed is the way to go for a topre board, the thocks are the most satisfying thing ever.

I bought a cheap brown switch from Amazon for like 35 bucks. Been my daily board for the last 4 months been pretty solid.

DREVO 84 Key Gramr Backlit Edition Tenkeyless Mechanical Gaming Keyboard, Brown Switch Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H6DHITE

If you live alone or with people that don't mind noise, you can try a Tomoko or MagicForce with blue switches. It's usually better to go with blue for cheap ones, because the sharp TICK they create usually covers up any scratchy or gritty feeling a quieter key might have.

No frills Tomoko for $35 that I've been typing on for half a year, works well so far. Can be very loud though.

Magicforce 68 is a compact budget board highly recommended by a lot of mech key fans. You can get a full-size with num-pad and Gateron switches for $70 or with Cherry for more.

Velocifire is a brand I know far less about, but they sell a full-size brown switch board with over 300 reviews that consist of mostly positive feedback. I have no idea what brand the switches on this one are, they make some other full-size boards with Kailh switches.

Maybe the Magicforce 108? I haven't used this particular keyboard but I have the 68 and it's great!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HHTFSIK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pA-cAb5T28ME7

Alright so if you can swing another $10, get the magicforce 108. That would be the best quality full size with gateron or cherry switches. Here's a link on amazon with gateron browns for $70

Going to second giving o-rings a shot, I've got mx browns and some 70A o-rings from Amazon and they definitely quiet it down a lot. They were all of $2, so it's a pretty cheap thing to try. I actually like the stiffer o-rings compared to 50A, I find the softer o-rings leave the keys feeling a bit mushy when bottoming out while gaming.

Quickfire Rapid. I got one with red switches a couple weeks ago. It has a nice soft touch case without any branding on the top or front or sides, I don't remember if the back edge has anything on it because I never see it. It also has a standard layout so custom keycaps are not a problem. It also comes with a nice braided USB cable. It is also quite affordable.

edit: There is a logo on the back edge

Getting ready to put together my first Topre build.

Keyboard

Keycaps

Will I have any issues getting the Varmilo keycaps to fit properly?? I'm assuming all flavors of PBT should fit?

Or would it be best to get the CM NovaTouch TKL (Topre but MX Cap compatible)?

If you want something cheaper but still great quality take a look at the Rosewills

Which rosewill keyboard is he using, and what are his complaints with it? A lot of rosewill keyboards are mechs, so if it turns out he doesn't like one switch type, that'd be good to consider before buying a new keyboard.

A magicforce can fit that description pretty well. The keycaps could be replaced with something better but they'd do fine by themselves.

Looking for recommendations for a low profile switch that falls somewhere between the kailh choc brown and kailh choc blues. The GAMDIAS low profile browns that I tried in this keyboard were EXTREMELY mushy and unsatisfying, and the kailh choc blues that I tried in this keyboard feel fantastic but are far too loud and clicks for my liking. I loved the feel of the full size MX browns I had previously, but much prefer the low profile travel distance.

Is there a low profile switch that is quiet and tactile? Anyone have experience with kailh choc browns?

https://www.amazon.com/Independent-Mechanical-Keyboard-Plastic-Aluminum/dp/B07JVMBMNK

That looks like your best bet.

You would need keycaps in addition to that. It is an entirely standard layout though, so you should be able to get them for $20 or so.

Weller Digital: Best Iron I've Ever Used (money is no object, used these in my last job that required a lot of PCB soldering)

Weller Analog: Also Great (I used these in grad school... work great, reliable and consistent irons)

Hakko Digital: Come Recommended (These irons offer some of the functionality of the higher end Wellers but in a much more affordable package. Have not personally used, but come highly recommended as budget option).