(Part 3) Top products from r/Miata

i LOVE them. i got the truck-lites. nice and bright and have a nice clean beam, which made aiming them super easy.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007K8AA7I/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thinking about upgrading my car, and I'm the type of person who likes to have everything planned out in advance. Car is an '04, already has a double diagonal rollbar, harness bar, muffler, aluminum radiator, and intake. I'll be doing timing/accessory belts, water pump, and valve cover gasket/paint shortly.

Critique my build plans please. What here is unnecessary, what am I missing, what should I change, anywhere I can save money without losing quality, or anywhere I need to gain quality, even if for a higher cost?

Driveline/Related:

• Coolant Re-Route
  
• Lightweight Flywheel
  
• Braided Clutch and Brake lines
  
• Cat & Midpipe (this one is for sure happening - my car needs a new cat, and $350 + doing it myself is about the same as having a shop cut and weld a new cat in)
  
• Headers
  
• Suspension
  
• Brace
  
• Oil Cooler
  
• 15x7 Wheels
  
• 205/50R15 Tires- which looks better, the S. Drives or V720's?
  
• Clutch Kit
  
• Slave and Master Cylinder (mine look to be having slight leakage, they're cheap parts and I figure I might as well do those when I do new clutch line/pack/flywheel)
  
• Motor Mounts
  
• Hood Lift Struts (mine are done for)
  
• Trailer Hitch
  
• Horn (mine doesn't currently work)
  
  Interior/Related:
  
  
• Sparco Wheel and Horn Buttons
  
• Hub kit
  
• Seats
  
• Harnesses
  
• Soft Top Latch (passenger side doesn't stay closed)
  
• Latch Caps
  
• Top (current has one hole and is slowly wearing out)
  
  Any advice is appreciated.

There are a few optioins besides the GE Nighthawks. I run these in my Miata:

https://www.amazon.com/SYLVANIA-Round-Street-Headlight-Contains/dp/B00OYR8MVO

There are also these:

https://www.amazon.com/Truck-Lite-27270C-Headlamp/dp/B007K8AA7I/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1486508489&sr=1-2&keywords=Trucklites

Yes only the top half lights up, but how often are you looking back at your lights? THe cutoff is great, does not not blind oncoming traffic. I am a big fan.

I don't have a garage, so unfortunately mine stays out in the elements year round. It had a small leak at the window seal when I got it, but I adjusted the windows and now it seals and I have had no problems since. It was a little blacker in color when I got it but the dealership probably used some restore stuff to shiny it up and I could do the same and it would be fine. It gets dumped on with pine needles and pollen and rain all the time but I wash it a lot to help. When it's summer and dry and pollen gets on it sometimes I have to use a soft brush when I wash it to get the pollen out of the textured surface. I think that's about it. Mine has held up fine. But I'd be a million times happier if I had a garage.


Edit: get a trombone cleaner to clean the drain holes, mine get plugged with pine needles so it's regular maintenance.

Edit: here's the trombone cleaner I use:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000K3E9KO/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_pHZ9Bb38HVDAY

Please, please don't put HID's into any kind of reflector type housing looking for more light. You'll just blind everyone else and you still won't be putting the light where it needs to be. Replacing the headlights with projector type lights works well, but is a lot of work and alters the look of the car.

A better alternative is to replace the headlights with a conversion kit to modern H4 bulbs and reflectors. They look stock but give much better light output and require much, much less work than installing projectors.

could be a bit low on oil. you can isloate the sound by using a stethescope it doesnt always work brilliant but it will at least tell you in the general area to elliminate a crank or rod bearing but i think a crank or rod knock would be much much louder.

Also replace the CAS o ring. http://rallyways.com/specialty/cas-o-ring-miata-oil-leak/
I bought these but if you are willing to drive around places to find a viton 222 o ring you might save a bit of money. I had some other gaskets and junk I was waiting on so figured might as well order at the same time.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FN0YG2/ref=biss_dp_t_asn
if you dont get viton make sure you get buna n or some other rubber which is oil resistant and withstand the heat of the motor.

Same here. Previous owner decided to do it himself, and cracked the rail along with not installing the top into the center of the fold. I ordered a new one through Amazon and had a shop do the work for $200. The rubbery plastic is nice and doesn't seem like it will crack or leak for a good few years. They also fixed the molding of the top where it was having issues on the passenger side seal for free.

From what I hear, miata engines seem to be pretty solid even at high miles. That being said, it depends on how the owner drove and maintained the car. When you're looking to buy, ask the owner if you can run a compression test on the motor. They're pretty cheap for what they can tell you.

I have this. Forgot the exact model but it works pretty well.

Flyin Miata is well-regarded for all the things.

I like Gates for both belt and pump, personally. Amazon sells that brand. Get the belt in a kit that includes the replacement pulleys, gasket, etc. The Gates pump has a cast impeller rather than spot-welded, which some think is the better way to go for a water pump.

BTW, here's a worklist you can use for this job: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1eEStLWP0Vp9YlvqrPNLA67S31Iz0FZd0Q-2waNV_UFg/edit#gid=0 (if you have updates on any of it, let me know!)

This turned out more expensive than I expected because of the tools. Can somebody confirm that I'm buying the right stuff for the job? Am I forgetting anything?
Doesn't have to be Amazon, it's just convenient. 1994 Miata.

• Permatex 81150 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease, .33 oz Tube
  
• TEKTON 24325 3/8-Inch Drive Click Torque Wrench, 120-960-Inch/Pound
  
• Permatex 81343 Anti-Seize Lubricant, 1 oz. Tube
  
• NGK (9160) ZE21 Premium Spark Plug Wire Set
  
• GearWrench 80546 5/8-Inch x 6-Inch Swivel Spark Plug Socket
  
• NGK (6953) BKR5E-11 V-Power Spark Plug, Pack of 1

Whoops, it wasn't actually a wrench. I think these two will work

Cheap one

Expensive one

And also from the forum: "The FSM (factory service manual) specifies 110-158 for a used Alt/WP belt"

I'm actually doing this fix today among a few others. Good luck!

Odd, I just looked back to my orders the WP was $28 when I ordered, another $40 or so for the TB+pullied and the gaskets for the camshafts and crankshaft were probably $30 tops all together. [Here's my wp. ](Gates 42134 Water Pump https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C2W91E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_sXKXAb7NFEBRH) and [TB](Gates TCK179 Timing Belt Component Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C2YDNQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_6YKXAbCPXBPEQ)

Definitely replace the bolt. You have a few options for trying to remove the seized head but before doing anything, I'd try soaking it with penetrating oil to see if that will help loosen things up.

If there's enough of the bolt sticking out, an eccentric stud extractor is my favorite way to remove a broken bolt. Otherwise you can use something that fits over the stud ordrills into the stud.

Good luck, broken bolts are a pain.

With something like this. https://www.amazon.com/Innova-3612-Compression-Tester-Piece/dp/B000EVU89I

Often you can rent or borrow these from shops or DIY garages. For the testing itself; any youtube tutorial will do. I personally like to watch chrisfix.
https://youtu.be/PNhuDCVIydw

Here you go these sound great, and install with stock wiring. I put them on my 2001, no more wimpy beep, more like a BMW

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004FXMGLY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

yah, I got this one in my basket, cuz Amazon says it fits my NA.

I got hoses in there too. I'll go ahead and add a cap. Thx again Internet Miata Bro.

Be Heard!

They sound like a 90's F250 Horn.

/u/Champagneshallow is correct. Drain holes for rain. You should have another on the passenger side.

Buy a trombone brush and give them a clean once in a while. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000K3E9KO

If you aren't afraid of some wiring it's really not bad to replace a head unit and you can save yourself a bunch. If you want to have someone do it you can go to bestbuy or another store that does installs. Its a lot of wires so it looks intimidating but all you need is the head unit of your choice, the bezel or surround if you still have a factory unit and optional but I do recommend is the adapter kit to plug into the stock harness. Putting it together is as easy as matching colors and soldering or just using butt connectors. It is a fairly simple process and if you mess it up the worst that can happen is it just won't turn on.

You pick a single din head unit and these are the items you need. You can do a double din but if I remember right you need a special adapter that is a it harder to find and pricier. Or you need I think one of the Japanese tombstones.

This will surround the radio and give it a cradle so you don't have blank spaces.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002BEYIQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483301353&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=miata+radio+install+kit+93&dpPl=1&dpID=41meO9lqHtL&ref=plSrch

This will plug directly into the stock plug and then you just connect the wires to the radio you pick out.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002BETW2/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1483301254&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=miata+radio+install+kit&dpPl=1&dpID=41byl99kQ8L&ref=plSrch

This is my thinking as well.

I can't find the "Koyo" model you're talking about though. Is there any reason to get it over the Spectra Premium?

Agree with everything you said, I'll add a bit more.

I have the Hella E Code conversion that I bought from amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Hella-Halogen-Replacement-Headlight-Standard/dp/B000FKIURK

The "E" stands for European, as in conforms to European lighting specs, and are therefore NOT DOT approved headlights. This could be an issue if you have to go through a state inspection, not sure I don't have any. You also may have to upgrade your wiring harness with a relay/fuse. I used 100W high beam bulbs and had to upgrade. If you do regular 55/60W bulbs, you would most likely be fine with the stock harness.

As far as install goes, /u/Tandyman100 is right that there are in fact 3 screws that hold the retainer ring on. There are 2 other long screws that adjust the headlight aiming left/right and up/down. Make sure you're unscrewing the correct screws unless you want to re-aim your headlights!

A set of these, a hat and some sun screen and you are good to go for as long as you like. http://www.amazon.com/Etymotic-Research-ETY-Plugs-Protection-Earplugs/dp/B0015WJQ7A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463088296&sr=8-1&keywords=ety+plugs

1990 did a 6 hour drive each way weekend trip just a few weeks ago. has 140k on it. Last week, it did an hour each way to the track and an hour running around pocono raceway. Other than blowing a caliper seal, no problems either. (I am going to refresh all the brakes, lines and calipers are 26 years old!)

Amazon Link

It's Mazda Miata MX-5 Performance Projects by Keith Tanner, who works for Flyin' Miata. He's one of the most knowledgeable people out there when it comes to Miatae. If you're looking for a good time waster his website has lots of good photos and documentation of all of his projects: Slow Car Fast

I will say that the book has a good amount of general information, but because it is written to cover multiple revisions of the car it can be a bit difficult to follow at times.

Ugh, that sucks! I think you can get a socket style bolt extractor in there. You might be able to buy just the size you need at a good hardware or automotive store.

Something like this:

IRWIN HANSON BOLT-GRIP Bolt Extractor Base Set, 5 Piece, 394001 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000CCXVZ/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_Leu9ybKM1NTTD

No the Bose Miata runs a stock amp to power the speakers. I was reading some people like to run this amp.

http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PLMRMP1A-2-Channel-Waterproof-Amplifier/dp/B003HH9FIQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422056768&sr=8-1&keywords=pyle+2+channel+amplifier

Be 100% sure there are no bubbles. I also worked on my car in the garage. Flushed twice, filled, overheated, bought burping kit and haven't overheated since.

Lisle 24610 Spill-Free Funnel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001A4EAV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_HGbYxb7B0MGKA

Oh, here is where I've bought it: http://www.amazon.com/TBK-Timing-Belt-Kit-Mazda/dp/B003BG1Z5E/

miata book 1

miata book 2

i really dont think you should get him any mods/parts

Is this a good rain rail?

http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HZ7CC6G?keywords=rain%20rail&qid=1451700819&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

I got one of these. And also this install kit, of which I wound up using exactly one piece. It came out okay.

INNOVA 3100 CAN/OBDII Code Reader https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000EVWDAK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_dJx0DbJSM652T

I have a Pyle Hydra 2 channel amp to my speakers. It has an integral aux input. If you could find a non-battery Bluetooth-aux adapter you may be able to go that route. I haven't looked into it much myself

Like this?

Buy these if you go on extended highway trips. I wear mine anytime im doing it over 20 min or so

https://www.amazon.com/Etymotic-ETY-Plugs-Fidelity-Earplugs-Standard/dp/B0015WJQ7A/ref=sr_1_17?keywords=audiophile+ear+plugs&qid=1569507079&s=gateway&sr=8-17

Also is that 1-2K work if you pay a mechanic to do it? I was thinking if I get one without history I'd start with
http://www.amazon.com/Timing-Belt-Mazda-Miata-1994/dp/B003BG1Z5E/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_1
and change all fluids while I was at it....

I bought the Bad Boy horn from Wolo, it mounts in the same place as the stock horn and is only slightly larger. It's pretty freaking loud. Just make sure you use a relay otherwise you will blow a fuse if you use the horn and brakes at the same time

http://www.amazon.com/Wolo-419-Bad-Boy-Horn/dp/B000F5DQWY

Top off the coolant and idle the car with the radiator cap off until you don't see any bubbles floating up. You can rev the car to 3000rpm for about a minute to push any stubborn bubbles out. Also squeeze the radiator hose, sometimes there can be bubbles trapped there.

If you maintain more than a couple of cars, it's nice to have this funnel: https://smile.amazon.com/Lisle-24610-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B001A4EAV0

Have you replaced your CAS O-ring recently/ever? If not, this may be the root cause -- a slow oil leak from the CAS (at rear of exhaust cam) onto the heater hose, which over time degrades the hose. Feel around back there and see if the hose is covered in dirty oil.

If you do need to do that job, you can get a 5-pack of Viton O-rings in the correct size from Amazon. It's an extremely simple job as long as you don't try to do it without taking off the valve cover.