(Part 3) Top products from r/Pets

FEEDING

>Every time I've fed him, he's thrown up.

How long has this been going on? If it has happened for more than a couple days you REALLY need to get to the bottom of this. A vet check would be prudent to rule out worms or any other gastric issues. What food are you feeding? How much? How often?

Puppies should be getting 3 meals a day. Free feeding should be avoided. If your puppy is eating too quickly consider getting a puzzle toy, making him earn most of his food through training or hand feeding or getting a special feeder (you can also use a muffin tray as a cheap remedy)

Check out the food you are feeding on Dog Food Advisor. Then compare it to the 4 star and 5 star food lists.

WHEN you feed is also an important consideration. Wait at least 30-60 minutes to feed after heavy activity.


HOUSE TRAINING

>I've been making sure to punish him accordingly (push his nose into the pee/poo, yelling at him, and taking him outside)

You should NOT be doing this! You are not teaching him that going to the bathroom in the house is bad - you are ONLY teaching him that going to the bathroom IN FRONT OF YOU IS DANGEROUS. If he has an accident in the house it is YOUR fault for not being around to let him out or watching him closely enough. Push your own nose in it as you are the only one who is failing.

A puppy is a baby - at 12 weeks they can only hold it for a maximum of 3 hours when they are inactive and usually only 30mins-1hour when they are active. They need to be supervised AT ALL TIMES or left in a puppy safe area (but not for any longer than they can physically hold it).

You do not need any "homemade tech" - you just need to manage his environment more! Look into Crate Training, clean up pet messes immediately with an enzymatic cleaner, and get him on a schedule (which is sounds like you are sort of doing - but if he is still having accidents he may need to go out more frequently or you need to do a better part of watching him/being around on time). Rewarding him with a high value treat when he goes outside IS correct - but stop punishing him when he makes a mistake!

See: Errorless House Training, House Training a Puppy and ASPCA House Training your Dog (this one covers the 'why' behind the effectiveness or lack-there-of for certain 'old school' methods - like paper training and rubbing your dogs nose in waste).


BITING/CHEWING
> He does seem pretty obedient when I catch him trying to chew, as he will stop when I yell at him and he will leave it alone.

You are focusing waaay too much on punishment. Again, your dog is a baby - he does not KNOW that your flip flops are valuable to you. He just knows he is a puppy and he is teething and this weird piece of foam and plastic feels good to chew on. Yelling at him just makes you scary and dangerous and is not actually TEACHING him what he SHOULD be doing. Look for opportunities to teach, not to punish.

Pick up and store everything that you do not want your pup to chew on - this includes making sure shoes are put away, paper is out of reach and any other 'favorite' non-appropriate chews are stored in a drawer, closet or on a high shelf (this is basic puppy proofing). If there is a room with a lot of items you cannot store that he tends to chew on - block access to that room with gates or doors (or ensure he is on leash and closely supervised when in these areas).

If you catch him chewing on something he should not - use a positive interrupter and replace the object with something he SHOULD be chewing on. Play with him a bit with the new object and encourage him to seek these items out. Reward him with small treats whenever you catch him 'being good' (playing with appropriate toys instead of your shoes) and take breaks to play with him when you see him doing these things as often as you can. You want to teach him that playing with these objects is rewarding and gets him attention. Some dogs will seek out 'off limits' items just because it gets your attention so effectively. Try to ignore him or use a positive interrupter and redirect to a new object. Going into a different room, waiting a few seconds and calling the puppy to you is a good way to redirect him away from the object without giving him direct attention. NEVER chase a dog with an object in their mouth the should not have - that just makes it a game for them! Unless the object is immediately dangerous, try to convince them to drop it on their own and make a big deal about them choosing a better chew.

Make sure there are several toys that he enjoys chewing on available at all times. You may also want to use natural chews like Bully Sticks or Trachea to help encourage positive chewing habits. Things like ice cubes or damp, frozen rags are great chews for pups with sore mouths from teething.

CRATE TRAINING/SLEEPING

This is totally normal for puppies. They are alone for the first time in their lives and that is really scary to them!

A properly sized crate should be just big enough for puppy to stand, sit, lay down and turn around in. Any bigger and they have the opportunity to use a corner for a bathroom and sleep on the other side. The purpose of the smaller crate size is to discourage them from having accidents and to learn to hold their bladder.

That being said, remember a puppy of this age can only hold it for a few hours! You will likely need to take him out at least once in the night until he is old enough to hold it longer.

You need to ensure that NO attention is given to the puppy while he is in the crate and crying. This becomes a bit of a trick as you need to be SURE he isn't crying to go out to the bathroom. The general rule is:

• If the pup has been out in the last 30-60 minutes, ignore
  
• If the pup has NOT been out, take him DIRECTLY outside on leash, give him 5-10minutes to do his business. If he does, you can give him a small treat then RIGHT back inside in his crate to sleep. No pets, not excessive attention, no play time. Potty. Crate. That is all fussing gets.
  
• If the pup carries on for more than 10 minutes or so, it may be worth taking them outside (see bullet #2) to make sure they are 'empty'. Again, they have 5-10 minutes to go. If they do, treat, inside. If they dont? They go back in the crate. No treat.
  
• If you are 100% sure the pup does not need to go to the bathroom, you MUST absolutely ignore the pup. No yelling ("QUIET!" "SHUT UP!"), No hitting the crate, no eye contact, try not to walk by the crate, etc. Pretend like you absolutely cannot hear him. It is hard the first few nights, but if you are absolutely consistent, the behavior WILL stop.
  
• If he is quiet in his crate (and people are awake) give him some small treats and attention to reinforce that behavior.
  
  It can help if you have his crate in the same room while you sleep so he doesn't feel so alone. Blankets also help if he is being over stimulated by the environment.
  
  GENERAL
  
  Be sure the puppy is getting plenty of exercise, training and attention. If you are working 8 hours every single night and sleeping during the day - puppy can be left with a lot of 'free time' which can lead to behavior issues. Puppies DO sleep a lot, but they should be getting at least 30-60 minutes of activity every 2 hours or so (between naps) and (ideally) have a max of 8 hours 'quiet time' during traditional sleeping hours.
  
  Here is a list of resources I would strongly encourage you look at - in addition to getting him into a puppy kindergarten class:
  
  
• /r/puppy101 (read the lessons on the sidebar)
  
  
• /r/dogtraining Wiki
  
  
• /r/dogtraining Book List
  
  
• /r/dogtraining Online Resources
  
  
• Dog training wiki - nipping
  
  
• Dog training wiki - house training
  
  
• The Digital Dog Training Textbook
  
  
• Ian Dunbar - Training Bite Inhibition
  
  
• Kikopup Training Videos
  
  
• Kikopup - Clicker Training
  
  
• Kikopup - Puppy Playlist
  
  
• Dont Shoot the Dog (book)
  
  
• The Culture Clash (book)
  
  
• The Power of Positive Dog Training (book)

Okay, I have a few bits of advice for you.

First things first, I know it's hard to do emotionally, but you've got to stop leaving dry food out for your cats all day. I had a professor once who was a cat behaviorist and he put it like this, "People feed horses like they should feed cats, and cats like they should feed horses." Meaning that horses are grazers and should have food all day, not just at certain times of the day. On the opposing side, cats are hunters and should be fed only at certain times of day, and not have food out constantly (which should also help with weight management for your kitty darlings in general, since it's so important to keep them at a healthy weight as they get older anyway!) AND this SHOULD make your roomie's cat less interested in getting into your room-if he realizes there is no reward on the other side of the door.

ALSO-as far as your room-mate's cat goes, you're right, she shouldn't be giving him tastes. Not just for your sake and your kitties' sake, but for her own cat's sake as well. Human food can be bad for kitties for a number of reasons and it's safest just to keep him away from it. Not to mention, like you said, it teaches him bad manners.

Now here's the tough part. It may sound ridiculous but obviously you need to talk to your roomie about this situation, which is conflict and awkward and horrible to deal with, I know. I really recommend looking up and doing some reading today on how to talk to people while avoiding conflict. There's stuff all over the internet about it, and it's a bit too hard for me to explain. Basically, not only is it a good life skill to have, but obviously you want to be able to talk to her about it without her getting upset or feeling personally attacked. Because cats are like your children, and people can easily get offended when they feel their "parenting" is being criticized. So I really, really, really recommend looking up just some general communication tips so you can talk this over with her without it being awkward or confrontational.

Also, here are some things that MAY help if you mention when you're talking to her (disclaimer: I don't know her, so you may have to cherry-pick things here that you think would help convince her):
-I don't know if her cat is overweight, but I think it's important to mention that even though fat cats are adorable and wonderful and everything, it's really not in their best interests to be overweight; just as with humans. Having a healthier relationship with food will help keep him at a healthy weight and can really help him live longer, as well as save her money (him maintaining a healthy weight can really keep down diseases and other things that cost lots of money.)
-I'd suggest this cat get fed separately from his brother, and given a toy such as this one:

http://www.redferret.net/wp-content/uploads/2011/06/e96a_stimulo_cat_bowl.jpg


http://www.amazon.com/Aikiou-Stimulo-Activity-Center-Green/dp/B00D91CQMW/ref=pd_sim_sbs_petsupplies_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0QE1JPXJM0J0SEXG885N


http://www.amazon.com/Northmate-Catch-Interactive-Feeder-Cats/dp/B00EB4IV2A/ref=pd_sim_sbs_petsupplies_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=0QE1JPXJM0J0SEXG885N

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http%3A%2F%2Fg-ec2.images-amazon.com%2Fimages%2FG%2F01%2Fkolpakov%2Forangeslimcat._V398607070_.jpg&imgrefurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2FPetsafe-SlimCat-Meal-Dispensing-Blue%2Fdp%2FB0018CG40O&h=475&w=425&tbnid=eW1exz5JYvZ6FM%3A&zoom=1&docid=ZJge0SV6zuaQ1M&ei=-OAnVPjaF4f4yAS13oCgDg&tbm=isch&ved=0CCwQMygOMA4&iact=rc&uact=3&dur=1275&page=1&start=0&ndsp=20

http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B003H44R5K/ref=gl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=VQZ0PRAGLUYB&coliid=I12NBLS87B4NXX

All of those are designed to slow a cat down while eating, while at the same time giving them the same mental stimulation that comes with play. This would make him eat slower, which is better for weight management as well as helping him to feel full and satisfied (if he ever does) and would keep him occupied enough for everyone else to finish eating before he could even think of getting to them. Not to mention it's fun for them! I don't know if you're willing to do this, but you could buy one of those options and give it to her as a gift, under the presumption that it is so he will leave his brother alone (I'm sure since they're both her children she probably doesn't like it when he bosses the brother around). It really is probably best to feed him alone, to prevent him from getting into anyone else's business and also would make life easier for your roomie, too.

Sorry about the book I just wrote.

I think as long as you give your new friend a lot of one-on-one time with you, and put up things like a cat tree and maybe a windowsill hammock for sun-bathing (like this: https://www.amazon.com//dp/B00FDU5JO4), a kitty would do just fine in your apartment, fully indoors. With plenty of love from you when you're home and toys to play with when you're gone, kitty will be okay alone during the day- although they do love company, so if it's possible to get 2 at the same time, who are already bonded, that would be ideal. Honestly 2 cats is really not much more effort than 1, you just have to budget a little more for food, vet, litter, etc.

The whole indoor/outdoor argument is really a personal choice- some people think it's cruel to keep cats inside all the time, some think it's the best and safest place for pet cats. I have had 4 indoor-only cats with me in as small a space as 450 sq ft (temporarily) and none of them is the worse for it. They're spoiled rotten and don't seem to realize that the outside world is anything more than a giant entertainment screen to be looked at through the back door for their amusement.

The only thing is, do not let a cat out onto the balcony unsupervised at the 5th floor, a fall from that height could be disastrous or even fatal. There are some cool cat tents you could use for some fresh air time though, they're small enough to fit on an apartment balcony. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002KWHE1E

And last of all, thank you for saying you'd like to adopt a cat. If you don't have a ton of time and energy to chase around a blazing ball of fluff and attitude, you may want to get an older cat rather than a kitten. Even by age 2 they've calmed down considerably from their demonic-possession kittenhood (and I say that in the most loving way possible), while still being lively and ready to play at the drop of a hat.

Best of luck to you. If you do get a fuzzball (or two) be sure to update and let us know!

I am going through the same thing. I'm at the tail end of the process. Still some work to do, but overall, much better than it used to be.

My vet recommended a book called "The Cat Whisperer". There's some really great steps for the reintroduction process. The book is great to have on hand and there's no need to read through all of it to get what you need. I read bits and pieces from the relevant chapters.

Start by exchanging scents (she recommends using a clean sock or a blanket) and slowly move into viewings. Separate them before anyone can have a bad time and continue to extend the visits for longer. Make sure good things happen when they're around the other cats.

Also, a behaviorist recommended to me that we ensure the cats have plenty of vertical space and that there's plenty of food, water and litter so the cats don't get overly territorial.

I have a cat that gets crystals, that I have to constantly manage. However, to properly know how to manage it, you need to find out if your cat has struvite or calcium oxalate crystals. Mine has had struvites, which I think is a bit easier to manage.

A few things I've learned about struvites:

• Cats dont' naturally drink a lot of water - they are supposed to get most of their water from food. A running water system (like a fountain, mentioned by renspets) is great for encouraging drinking. However, you need to stop feeding dry food completely, and feed only canned food to really get the most water into your friend. (this goes for both types of crystals)
  
  
• They are primarily caused by too much magnesium. Your vet will probably put you on a special diet (with very low magnesium). However, this is all in all crappy food, and very expensive. What I've found that works is checking food labels (canned, not dry, remember?) and don't get anything with fish or seafood (which have very high levels of magnesium). I've also heard wellness brand has high mag levels, which I don't know for sure, but I do know most of their stuff has fish in it. If I feed only fish and seafood-free food, the cat is fine no crystals at all. Stupidly, one day several years after the first bought with crystals I thought I should give them more variety, and bought a bunch of different flavors, including fish stuff. Within a few months, she had crystals again. We returned for a few months to the prescription diet, then I weaned her off of it onto EVO canned food (no fish or seafood contents this time!) and she's been fine since. Moral of the story: You don't need the Rx food, as long as you feed canned food without magnesium (which largely comes from seafood ingredients).
  
  A great book to read about cat health (written by a vet that takes a more "whole cat" approach, looking largely at feed) is Your Cat. It really does a great job at dissecting the current state of feline diets, and the role they play in many feline illnesses. I HIGHLY recommend it.
  
  Good luck!
  

Oh, the difficulties of being a pet, with all your needs provided for you... I know the feeling, though. I want my cats to be happy and mentally stimulated.

One, rotate your toys. Put all of your toys in two or three boxes and change them every 2-3 days. I like to make a Tuesday box and a Friday box. On those days, I pick up the old toys and gradually introduce "new" ones from the box. Cats have really, really short memories, so they'll treat the "new" toys like they really are new.

Two, you can try toys that look like this: http://www.amazon.com/SmartCat-3833-Peek-Prize-Pet/dp/B0006VMN4O I make my own using cardboard boxes and toss them when they get gross. Just make sure the opening is big enough for them to get their paw in and pull the toy out. Err on the side of too easy. Even smart cats will get discouraged quickly. After all, he's never been challenged before! You can put toys or treats in there. Like the normal toys, if he gets bored, pick it up and hide it for a few days and then put it back out.

Three, get a treat-dispensing ball and put some dry food in there or treats. You can make your own using a toilet paper roll, but I find that it just gets greasy from the treats and my cats don't use it as much as the plastic balls I bought. This way he has to "work" for his food. My cats love it.

I'll also take the dry food and put it in a small plastic tupperware container (lid off), and then put under another tupperware, so they have to knock off the top one to get to the food. Or use a larger box/laundry basket and prop it up so they have to reach their paw under to get to the food, and if they nudge it, the basket falls down. This will frustrate them, so don't start with it, but when he gets bored of everything else, then you can start making it difficult. This is hard to describe, but I'm not at home so I can't take pictures for you.

Lastly, you can try Cat TV - putting on videos of birds, mice, etc for them to watch. Mine like watching YouTube videos of big cats like tigers. Be careful - if you put prey on your LCD screen, they will want to catch it, and that involves claws.

Oh, and about that toy he loved, I buy the following two toys at I think PetSmart for about $1-$1.50. Most cats love 'em. I've seen a few cats that go CRAZY for one or the other. One is a mouse with feathers for a tail and the other is a plastic ball with feathers sticking out.

Good luck!!

It may just be a matter of finding toys that can keep him engaged. There are toys that are like catnip kickers or static little stuffies, but then there are also some that are battery-operated or plug in (lasers, concealed motion toys, magnetic toys).

My personal preference, especially if I'm not home to supervise are toys that can be active with just the cat's actions alone. This woven straw is one of my cat's favourites because it catches in her claws as she swats it, so as she moves, it follows her motion until it uncatches and flings off, so she'll go chase it.

I've got this cheap little wand that I use to play with her that moves fairly unpredictably and actually got my cat panting because she was so into it.

Another thing I do everyday is spend 15-20 minutes making her chase her meal. I feed wet food during the day and offer a limited amount of kibble at night, so what I do with the kibble is toss it up the stairs or around the house within her sight so she chases each piece to get fed. I do this until she gets so tired that she has to lie down 3 or 4 separate times, and then I let her rest.

After that, I fill some foraging toys with some more kibble so she has something to work for. If your cat is food motivated, this could work well for you too because it keeps them mentally and physically busy. I have a treat ball and a Wobbert (a little more challenging than a regular treat ball) but I find they're quick to solve and not very engaging. Most of the ones I get are dog toys:

• Mad Scientist
  
  
• Jigsaw Slider
  
  
• Flip board level 2
  
  
• Brain mover toy
  
  
• Lucky Slots
  
  
• Training level 3
  
  
• Training level 3
  
  Also, I hide kibble pieces all over her furniture and any cat-friendly furniture. In toys, in any nooks and crannies, in places I want her to explode. It's a good reason to get her feeling like she has a bit of a mission and poking around.

I thought this post did a fairly good job talking about costs.

A couple of notes: Please, for your sanity and the health of the kitten, spay her when appropriate. Unlike dogs, cats go into heat monthly until they become pregnant. During their heat they are loud, needy, and trying to escape to find a mate. Especially at night. Cats have a lot more health problems when they aren't spayed like Pyometra. I've read dogs need to wait until after their first heat, but this is untrue for cats. Most vets try to do it before the cat's first heat.

Also, please don't declaw your kitty. If you can start her early trimming their nails isn't hard and you can ask the vet to show you how. If her scratching is bad you can use soft claws which make it impossible for them to destroy things. We get a completely flat scratch box thing from walmart for like $10 that we can flip and it's pretty much the only thing she scratches.

Other things: All window blind strings are now toys. We tie ours up/ hide them behind the blinds so that our little lady can't mess with them.

Cats love to be higher up than you. I'm in a super small space so this cat tree is perfect for us. She can survey her kingdom without it taking up valuable floor space.

She ignores her bed at this point. Oh well.

Keep any of your supplies that are small enough to eat or toxic out of reach. Strings can be very dangerous for kitties too if ingested.

Good luck :)

I couldn't tell you about heating lamps, but I have this pet heating pad for my elderly (18.5 yr old) kitty and she loves it. Spends about 95% of her day on it; she loved it immediately.

It's designed to only warm up when there's a kitty sitting on top of it. We love it.

Water pistols were very effective for me when my cat went through that phase. We kept one on each side of the door and squirted him when he bolted. He learned very quickly and the training lasted his whole life. 15+ years later, he'd cautiously and slowly walk towards open doors but never cross the threshold.

I did fulfill his desire for the outside with a pet tent when he was older - always under supervision and using his carrier to transport him back and forth. I avoided the cat leash as I didn't want him to think he was free to roam around outside.

Good luck!

I'm a new cat owner and I've done a ton of research into automatic litter boxes myself. The only conclusion that I've been able to come to is that they all pretty much suck. They either jam up, don't clean well, break after a short life cycle, or have other issues. Even expensive units like the Litter Genie or the top end Litter Maid units are not without significant issues.

If you have questions about specific brands I'd be happy to share what I've learned.

Right now my cat is using the closest thing to self cleaning I could find, the Omega Paw Self-Cleaning Litter-Box.

If you have a cat that does not mind a covered box this thing is amazing. Cleaning the litter box is a 60 second process and I never have to touch pet waste. I can not recommend this product enough.

I'm no expert on dogs and litter boxes, so perhaps someone else in the community can help you out. My best guess would be to put the box of your choice in a location where the cat can get to it easily but the dog cannot get to it at all.

Best of luck with your kitty!

For the counter you can invest in Motion Activated Pet Proofing Repellent. Just set it on the counter where you don't want her to be and once it sprays air at her a couple of times, she'll no longer want to go there.

Does your office have a window? if it does you could set up a lounge for her near it so she can enjoy some "Cat TV" while you're working and not bother you.

It sounds like your roommate needs to invest in some cat toys and spending play time with their cat. Try to get the roommate to check out episodes of My Cat From Hell, Just watching it well help them/you learn about how to have a happy and content cat that doesn't annoy you, there is also a book by the host, either way you go it will definitely help in the bored kitty department.

Please, please do not listen to the Petco person. Senior cat foods tend to advertise "reduced protein" formulas which means more carbohydrates (especially in dry foods) which you do NOT want for a cat, especially an older one that vomits often. The more carbohydrates and fillers, the more the cat has to eat to fill itself, the more vomiting and pooping and gut irritation, on top of a high possibility for diabetes, urinary issues, food allergies, and skin conditions. Cats throw up sometimes, but rarely. If a vet isn't concerned about this, that sounds like a red flag. How often is "a bit" for your cat?

I really recommend switching to a frozen raw diet as well. If that's not an option, then certainly switch to canned. No dry food whatsoever and especially do not free-feed. If you do more research into the topic (I highly recommend both http://www.catinfo.org/?link=makingcatfood and Dr. Elizabeth Hodgkins's book, http://www.amazon.com/Your-Cat-Simple-Secrets-Stronger/dp/0312358024) you'll get a better idea of why it is that cats need essentially a zero carbohydrate, all-meat moist food diet, and how improper high-carbohydrate diets are inappropriate for cats and lead to several serious medical issues (vomiting is just a symptom of other problems).

Honestly, with my girl I tried everything under the sun (developed asthma at age 11) and finally just settled on giving her the pills straight with a piller like this: http://amzn.com/B007RQQKWC It went a lot faster than giving her liquid that she'd spit everywhere or trying to get her to eat it from a treat (she never liked soft treats or wet food either). So I just gave it to her in the pill popper and gave her a couple of the Temptations (her favorites too) and we went about our respective days without too much trauma.

We have one of these and our cats love it. It's a pretty cheap investment, and it honestly stopped a lot of yowling in our house. They have 'em in white and steel too. Best thing I ever bought, it's built like a tank.

I think they mean something like this, with the lid removed obviously: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004I8Q6RQ

Roughly how large is the cat now in terms of height/length? Does your vet have an estimate how much more it will grow?

This one has a removable lid and can be used without it: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004N1NAPY/ref=psdc_2975299011_t1_B003RQVGKC. It's pretty big.

My 16 pounder uses this with space to spare. Lid/door removable: https://www.amazon.com/Catit-Jumbo-Hooded-Cat-Litter/dp/B003RQVGKC

EDIT: On the second one, you can actually remove the plastic door and the gray flap on top to create a semi-covered box that partially open on top, which maybe a good compromise for a cat who needs some extra headroom.

2 months old? And you are wondering how to "tame" him?! I rescue cats, mostly kittens and there is only one way to "tame" a rambunctious kitten-PLAY WITH HIM! Wear him out. He is a little body with all of this energy that he needs to get out...he is doing what every kitten does if someone doesn't play with them...he knocks over plants, he tears stuff up, he is a terror. Find some toys that are interactive for when you are not there but play with him twice a day for 15-20 minutes or more. I recommend a laser pointer for playtime with him. That wears a kitten out more than anything.

Use a spray bottle, squirt him when he does something you don't want him to do-BE CONSISTENT and don't let him see it come from you. You want him to think...gee, everytime I step on this table, water comes from somewhere and I don't like it. If he knows it comes from you, when you aren't there he will do it.

Here are some toys I like to use for these little guys.

http://www.amazon.com/FroliCat-BOLT-Interactive-Laser-Pet/dp/B0021L8W6K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1290270627&sr=8-1

http://www.amazon.com/Bergan-Turbo-Scratcher-Colors-Vary/dp/B000IYSAIW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1290270627&sr=8-4

http://www.amazon.com/SmartCat-3833-Peek---Prize-Pet/dp/B0006VMN4O/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1290270627&sr=8-7
Only use this one under your supervision since he's so small...I have had a kitten get their head stuck and it took a vet to get her out after putting her under anesthetic and using a saw to cut her out.

http://www.amazon.com/Cat-Mouse-Powered-Toy/dp/B000633WZG/ref=sr_1_23?ie=UTF8&qid=1290270645&sr=8-23

http://www.amazon.com/Petmate-Crazy-Circle-Interactive-Large/dp/B0002AT5AO/ref=sr_1_49?ie=UTF8&qid=1290270658&sr=8-49

http://www.amazon.com/SmartCat-3832-Ultimate-Scratching-Post/dp/B000634MH8/ref=pd_sim_k_18


Also, do you realize that he will be this way for a few more months? Don't play with him using your hands (he will think they are toys and might bite you) and get him a scratching post. He is at the point, if he is two months old, that he can be neutered as well.

Good luck

Time to go back to day 1 and reintroduce the cats. I highly, highly recommend getting a copy of "The Cat Whisperer" by Mieshelle Nagelschneider and following the chapter on reintroducing cats. It goes really in-depth and has the best step-by-step plan I've seen for reintroducing the cats to each other with the highest possibility for success.

Siblings, yay! They'll already know each other which is helpful when transplanting each to a new environment.


I think this book is a helpful general guide for beginners. This one too though it has a stronger focus on wet food diets.

ScatMat

This will be much better and safer. It also has the benefit of not being able to reset when you aren't there. With ideas like yours, cats often learn to set off traps so they can go do what they want anyway. The scatmat won't stop working after the cat jumps up the first time

So there are these things called Soft Claws. They are little nail caps that you glue on your cat's nails to prevent them from damaging things when scratching. They work great!

If they are worried about him jumping on counters, there is this motion detect compressed air thing called SSSCat training aid. These are really great for keeping cats away from things you really don't want them to stay away from. I always use one for the Christmas tree. No kind of training will keep my cats away from the temptation of a Christmas tree! So these would really be useful for things that your cat is absolutely forbidden to jump on.

A good cat climber near a window in the common areas will reduce his interest to scratch up stuff as well.

Cats and what stresses them, can be hard to resolve. I like to remind owners you don't need to cut all nails in one sitting, do one a night! Over fast, less injuries and stress for everyone. Also, great book for cat owners dealing with behaviour issues https://www.amazon.ca/Cat-Whisperer-Cats-What-Do/dp/0553807854
Good luck!

Cats like fresh, moving water. We got ours this water fountain and while she still splashes at it a bit she has yet to knock it over since it's pretty heavy. Before we bought the fountain I had her dish in a big shallow storage box so if she did spill the water it didn't spread out all over the floor. Or like the other suggestion: place a few bowls around the house.

Put down the lid. They have lids that close slowly and don't slam, makes it easier to do every time. I have a Catit fountain that all my cats have loved. Catit Design Senses Fountain with Water Softening Cartridge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CO527IC/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_DRfSub13B6WJN

I wouldn't put them outside, especially if they've gone so long without learning how to stay safe out there. If your neighbors are so far away, I'd be worried about what sort of wildlife you have in your area. I doubt the cats are maliciously targeting your things alone, they probably have just decided that "wires over here are fun" and not extended the concept to other wires. Or they like chewing on wires that were near you.

I watched my cat destroy a cell phone cord one day. It was quite thin, he just casually walked up and bit it, the way outdoor cats will approach long blades of grass, and that was it. It was too thin to hold up to even one bite. It wasn't malicious, and I think he was as surprised as I was that it broke so easily. (Although maybe the look of surprise was that I was rushing towards him saying, "No! Bad cat!")

Regardless, it sounds like you need to protect your wires. Bitter sprays have never really worked on my cat, but are worth a shot. I'd personally go with wire covers. (I'd put one on your wife's mouse, too, just in case they re-direct their attention to it when they can't get to yours. I'd also cover any wires that are similarly thin.)

There are a lot of options. This one looks like it might be exactly what you need. There's also a larger size for power cords. Or, if you want to cover every wire, there's a bulk option.

You might also want to provide them with cat grass so they have an appropriate outlet for all their chewing.

So my beloved 19-year-old has been on pills for the last few months for various things, including metronidazole (which apparently tastes absolutely horrible). He'll be on pills for the rest of his life, probably. Vet gave us one of these, and it's a game-changer.

http://www.amazon.com/Buster-Piller-With-Soft-Syringe/dp/B007RQQKWC

Load pill into soft tip, press against his lips until you can pop it in, pop pill in back of his mouth. He swallows before he knows what's going on, and then gets fed gushy food. Life is good.

Try something like this: Cord Protector - CritterCord - A New Way to Protect Your Pet from Chewing Hazardous Cords https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EH2I5O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Qx4CxbQNADVVZ

Also, wrapping the cords in tin foil might help. Cats don't like the way it feels on their teeth.

There are thermal beds that only heat fully when the cat is on it. Or, if you have a heating pad just wrap a towel around it and that should do the trick. I'd have to say that as cats get older, they like to be warmer much like elderly people. I don't know if it's a circulation thing in cats or not, but all my cats are like heat seeking missiles as they get older.

http://www.amazon.com/Thermo-Kitty-Mat-12-5-25-Mocha/dp/B000S9M2U4

I have two cats and a husky and all of them drink a lot of water. I found myself constantly refilling their water dishes so I invested in the Drinkwell Big Dog fountain. It works great and all the animals seem to like it. A few problems I had it with it is the dog splashes a lot of water out while drinking, so I ended up buying the plastic floor mat for underneath it. The cats also like to stick their paws in the water and play with the streams, so it does collect some dirt from that and I have to wash it out about once a week.

Only other major problem I have is due to our hard water in my area. It causes an ugly calcium buildup on the sides and builds up in the motor. About twice a year I have to take the whole thing apart, soak in vinegar, and chisel out all the calcium build up. Even using filtered water doesn't seem to help.

I've had it for a year and it's still going strong, so I consider it a good investment.

Do you take him for a long walk at night?

This is a kong. You can fill it with peanut butter and some small treats, freeze it, and it will preoccupy your dog for hours

This is how I feed my dog her meals, she has to push it to get her kibble out, so it mentally stimulates her

Here are some other mentally stimulating toys we use: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006ZTTSOE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lcQAzbWNWKYBJ

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0054Q9TMA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_FbQAzbTVZQGKH

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014OAYVKG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8cQAzb365KDN2

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001F0RRTG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_HdQAzbMD3G61W

It's relatively dusty (we're talking when you pour it in, right? It's not dusty besides that) but I use FreshStep. You can get it from Sam's Club for less than $16 for a 42lbs. bag. It actually smells pretty decent. For a while I wondered why my cat smelled like cologne. I dump the litter once a day and only have to replace all of it once a month. Also, I highly recommend getting this litter box: http://www.amazon.com/Omega-Paw-Self-Cleaning-Litter-Regular/dp/B0002DK2A8
You'll never have to scoop again and if you're too lazy to take the litter to the trash, flipping it over at least separates the clumps.

I second that brand. I got this H&K Thermo-Kitty Mat a few months ago and my cats love it. One is always on it when napping, sometimes they share it. I've washed and dried the cover about 10 times and it hasn't ripped yet. The heat is actually on a low setting until it senses pressure on top, so it saves electricity when they're not using it.

PetSafe SSSCAT Spray Pet Deterrent, Motion Activated Pet Proofing Repellent for Cats and Dogs, Environmentally Friendly https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0721735K9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HfgSDbEKZW68Q

Dogit Mind Games 3-in-1 Interactive Smart Toy for Dogs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0045DKZ6M/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_UlRuyb1G87S7G

TRIXIE Pet Products Flip Board, Level 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0054Q9TMA/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_.mRuybDJAXKES

Company of Animals Nina Ottosson Dog Tornado Interactive Plastic Toy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001KZ8FWE/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_DoRuyb1A4JKYH

I have the Drinkwell Big Dog Fountain and the Drinkwell Platinum Pet Fountain. My cats love them! My father let the cats drink from the tap. They got spoiled and started turning their noses up at their water dish and begging for water at the sink. After nearly tripping over cats every time I had to pee, I bought the smaller of the two fountains. It was an immediate hit, not just with the cats, but with the dog, too. Between them all, they emptied the fountain very quickly. I had to upgrade to the big one just to keep up!

http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Operated-Scat-Mat-48x20/dp/B0007NTBJ6

And make sure they have a few towers next to the forbidden zones so that you can easily redirect them to an allowed climbing place.

Catit Jumbo Hooded Cat Litter Pan - Warm Gray https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003RQVGKC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8eh9BbJ58TPEV

Couple other options...

If the medication is something that is available for dogs as well, it may be able to be compounded into a chewable. However, the cat may not eat it. I've never had a cat eat ground up medication--it tastes too strong.

You may also be able to get your medication cheaper from a mail-order compounding pharmacy. These places are licensed, and do human and pet medications. There are several you can use, and it will depend on your location (not all are licensed in every state). I use one for my cat's medication. If I went directly through my vet for my cat's medication, it would be $700/mo. Through mail order, it's $20. The compounders will also probably have several options for administering: pills, liquids, and chewables or transdermals may be available depending on the medication.

For the pills, you can get what is called a pill syringe. You put the pill into the end of the syringe, get the cats mouth open, and shoot it towards the back of their mouth. Most of the time the cat is so surprised, they just swallow it.

You can gently hold the cat's mouth shut after giving them a pill. Do not press hard, or do anything that would obstruct their nose and breathing.

This is going to be a situation where you are going to have to brute force the cat. She's having an unpleasant time when being medicated, but ultimately that is the right thing to do.

Ahh I understand. Here's one I found on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-Pet-6022-Drinking-Fountain/dp/B00329RZFE

My cat always played with water and knocked over bowls, but he was never able to knock over this fountain

PetSafe Drinkwell Big Dog Pet Fountain https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FGIUV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0qb6ybVHZX47H

Apparently someone makes diapers specifically for cats. Found these on amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/Joybies-Piddle-Pants-Measuring-Collar/dp/B000SE7AZG

Does your vanity have the space for a ScatMat? We had issues with one of our cats counter surfing in our kitchen so we gave that a try. After a few shocks, he’s not up on the counter nearly as much anymore. Not a 100% fix for us but it was worth the $40! It may work wonders for you!

You could try hiding a few puzzle toys around the apartment to keep her occupied at night, like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Egg-Cersizer-Meal-Dispensing-Cat/dp/B003H44R5K/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1522775421&sr=8-3&keywords=cat+puzzle+feeder&dpID=41uLQR4-1IL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

how about these?

It was a lot more expensive when I bought it- but here it is http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-Pet-6022-Drinking-Fountain/dp/B00329RZFE/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1343743986&sr=8-10&keywords=pet+fountain

Before going for the nuclear option, consider using claw caps.

Scat mat: https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-ScatMat-Indoor-Training-Electronic/dp/B0007NTBJ6/ref=br_lf_m_obag9nqtcktf8rm_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&s=pet-supplies




Motion detector spray: https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-PDT00-13914-SSSCAT-Spray-Deterrent/dp/B000RIA95G/ref=br_lf_m_obag9nqtcktf8rm_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&s=pet-supplies

I have Bengals and they destroy everything in seconds. Here are some toys that have held up for months:

1. Vee Purrfect Leather Tassel toy http://www.veeenterprises.com/A1_pp554.htm
   get the leather not the feather one and make sure it's the one with the plastic tubing at the top. Can stand up to EXTREME play. But I would not recommend leaving it out when you're not playing with it. Did that once and our boy did manage to chew through the cord. That said these are incredibly durable.
   
   
2. Cosmic Catnip A-Peeling catnip filled banana shape toy. In the past these have held up even to their teeth gnashing but the last one split open. Not sure if that was a fluke. The company actually sent a replacement and so far it's holding up.
   
   
3. One of these wooden boxes: http://www.amazon.com/SmartCat-3833-Peek-Prize-Pet/dp/B0006VMN4O We stuff the catnip banana in it when we leave for work and they fish it out.
   
   Your probably already know this but avoid all toys with extra bits sewn on like eyes, whiskers, etc. Fake mice also bad - my boys would chew off the fur and eat it and once even swallowed the plastic form inside - so now we only give them toys that are 100% filled with the 'nip.
   
   Hope that helps.

My youngest cat has a thing for HDMI cables - he's eaten at least $100 in HDMI cables. Nothing I sprayed on them worked (tried bitter apple and a cayenne pepper solution). Finally I found this : Critter Cable. It's the only thing that has been able to keep his sharp little teeth out of my wires. It is absolutely worth the expense.

It's not good for a cat to be fat. It can cause health problems down the line. He also needs to stop eating human food and hot dogs; get him down to scheduled feeding twice a day. Make sure you're measuring out exactly how much he's actually supposed to be eating.

One tip I have is to try a meal dispenser like the Egg-Cersizer, which makes cats work a bit to get their food.

There are many different kinds of toys and puzzles that will keep him occupied when you aren't at home. Just choose something centered around your dog's motivation, whether it be treats, toys, or something else and don't forget to play with him yourself!

On a different note, I used to have a dog who started chewing when he was a puppy. I made it absolutely clear to him that I was VERY unhappy when he chewed through my headphone cord, then gave him a length of denim from the scrap box and said, "This is for you." Ever since then, he'll only chew things you give to him explicitly.

I'm a terrible sleeper - wake up to the slightest sound or touch - so having the cat in the bedroom just isn't possible for me. One of the first things I bought when I adopted my cat was this shock mat. I laid it down outside my door. He stepped on it once and now avoids the door area. I set a nice bed a little ways away from the door, so he has a place to call his own for the night. Never had any problems after the first week or so.

Like everyone else is saying, exercise, but some cats are just obnoxious and need to run around like a maniac at 2am getting into things. My cat used to jump on the kitchen counters for the joy of spiting me after I'd gone to bed - tried aluminum, double sided tape, citrus, barriers, nothing stopped him.

I finally got a Sssscat spray thing and it worked pretty immediately. It has a motion sensor trigger that when set off sprays scentless, chemical-free aerosol for about 2-3 seconds. This scared the living hell out of my cat. It also scared the living hell out of me the couple times I forgot to turn it off before walking up to the counter. But it worked - within about two weeks I was able to take it down entirely and he's never gone onto the counters ever again.

Long story short, if there's one particular area you're trying to keep the cats away from, buy the spray thing and it will work.