(Part 3) Top products from r/PrintrBot

First off, using an ATX power supply is not a mod. That is the original intended power supply for the Printrboard. There is a socket for the six-pin video card power plug right on the board. In fact, the barrel socket power port is just a jumper to that socket and must be unplugged to upgrade to an ATX power supply.

Some ATX power supplies do require a short bit of wire running from the green wire on the large connector to any black wire on the connector before they will turn on, but that isn't scary, is completely reversible, and isn't even required on all power supplies. You can buy a premade jumper for precisely that purpose. Some ATX power supplies even include the jumper connector.

Now to answer your original question: You are looking for a 12 volt power supply with an ampere rating of 6 amps or more and a 2.1mm X 5.5mm, center positive, barrel style plug. Something like this one should work for you.

Let me be clear in why I prefer the ATX power supply. The ATX power supply is SAFER than the smaller barrel plug power supply. If I was going to run my Printrbot and leave the house for a while, I would feel much better using the ATX power supply. For fire safety, the ATX power supply is the better choice. Sure, the wiring harness looks a bit like an octopus, but a few zip-ties or velcro wraps will tame that beast.

I'm going to try this on a print tomorrow, thanks for all the advice!

Edit:
Wanted to add, it wasn't Kevlar tape, it is kapton tape, this stuff: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BX49P8K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I tried blue printers tape but it never stayed down. The tape on the bed now is the first sheet I put on, and I have attempted at least 12 prints on it so far.

Ninja edit: Im printing with PLA. Currently I have my extruder set to 208, and my bed at 50. Does this sound about right or am I really off? The successful prints I have had I've had really stick, like I have to give them a good knock to get it off the bed.

Yes, you need a MOSFET board. There are a ton of them out there. The Fan Extender board for RAMPs will work, but this one is a little easier to hook up:
http://www.amazon.com/IRF520-Button-MOSFET-Arduino-Raspberry/dp/B00W8TXEAE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1450228860&sr=8-2&keywords=arduino+mosfet

Optionally, you can use these jumpers for connecting the signal lines (just peel off the 3 you need):
http://www.amazon.com/sunkee-100pcs-female-Dupont-Arduino/dp/B00AYCON8Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1450231875&sr=8-1&keywords=arduino+jumper+wires+female+to+female

Green Supply connector (two wires that originally went directly to the fan):
GND = 12V Ground (-)
VIN = +12V

Green fan connector:
Connect fan's + and - to -V and +V respectively

Signal Lines:
Connect SIG,GND, and +5V(VCC) Dupont connectors to the following pins on the PrintrBoard: http://imgur.com/kxH5Olx

Set PIN 3 as your EXTRUDER_AUTO_FAN

Not a bad idea, I do get a noticeable sound sometimes that is less than present, but nothing earth shattering. Is there a recommended oil beyond, say, WD-40? Should I do this to the threaded rods of the Z as well?

EDIT: Did some searching and bought this stuff as I found a number of threads saying not to use WD-40 like I initially thought..

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008MU1GEY/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Can't vouch that it's the same, but there is a lot of good info additionally in this thread you should check out including an inductive sensor thawkins believes is better suited to the task. If I was willing to ditch the glass bed I'd be going this route I believe.

http://www.printrbottalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=113&t=6812

Nope. It was easy to install and its really easy to print from. If your comfy following some simple instructions using the command line you'll be fine. I still slice with Slic3r, I just use the stand alone program then upload the gcode to Octoprint.

By default the Octoprint package from Printrbot expects you to plug in a Ethernet cable so I would recommend getting a Edimax Wireless USB Adapter so the whole thing is actually wireless. The process for setting up this USB adapter with the Rasp Pi and Octoprint is pretty well documented. This way the only two cables you have are one USB for power to the Rasp Pi, and another USB going to the back of the Printrbot.

I have a Printrbot Simple Metal, and I replaced its crappier cable sleeve with a cable chain like all other high-end 3D printers:
http://www.amazon.com/Black-Plastic-Chain-Carrier-Router/dp/B00880AVL2. The Play's sleeve is really nice quality, and all you have to do is route a stiff wire from under the base and up through the sleeve.

I've got a Jr where I've got some intermittent wobble issues. Tried unscrewing my lower stepper motor with some success but I'm fairly certain this should help a lot. I got this guy http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004HW7190/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

When in the same predicament as you, I went ahead and just made my own new bed:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/e9mnlufak09vdc9/Bed_Frame_-_Left.stl

https://www.dropbox.com/s/e9mnlufak09vdc9/Bed_Frame_-_Left.stl

https://www.midweststeelsupply.com/store/castaluminumplate
(1/4" x 13.25" x 6.5")

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0045DUX5A

All told, that's ~$50 for pretty much exactly the same thing. All you need to be able to do is drill holes in the corners of the plate.

I'm considering this one Amazon but the thing is I don't know if the circular connector is the correct size. I have so many of these connectors sitting around the house but either they don't fit some of the electronics or they are not the correct voltage/amperage. Is there some kind of system like SAE/Metric or is it unregulated and manufacturers just make whatever size adapter for their product like Apple?

Don't use safe release. You want plain jane original 2090 blue 3m.

https://smile.amazon.com/ScotchBlue-Painters-Multi-Use-1-88-Inch-60-Yard/dp/B000A3DQGW/

You might get the safe release to stick with a layer of AquaNet ultra/extra hold no scent

https://smile.amazon.com/Aqua-Net-Unscented-Aerosol-Spray-11/dp/B002K33AFM

Or with some purple no show glue stick

https://smile.amazon.com/Elmers-Disappearing-Purple-School-E522/dp/B00178KMUC

But really, you'll want to eventually get a heated bed. Yes, this stuff can work, but you'll spend more on it over time than if you upgraded to a heated bed.

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What filament are you using, brand type and possibly color? Got any pictures? What are your print settings?

Depends on what power supply and board you have, but I use an ATX power supply and just used this adapter direct from the power supply to the fan

I saw somewhere else that people recommend using this one from Amazon.

Personally, it's still a big metal box, just in a different shape. I instead modified my PSU so that it only has the six 12v wires coming out of the box, plus the green wire jumpered to negative inside the box to allow it to run. I printed a (non UL-listed) flange for it (but then had to hack the top part a bit to get the big fan to work).

Get this - http://www.amazon.com/Polyetherimide-Natural-Standard-Tolerance-Thickness/dp/B00CPRDDLY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421210514&sr=8-1&keywords=pei+sheet

Then get this - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y7D5NQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cut the sheet to the size of the bed. Put the glue on the sheet with the old windex+credit card deal. Put the sheet on the bed the same way.

Adjust your Z height to account for the thickness difference.

Never ever worry about bed adhesion again, ever.

The sandpaper pulley, I think is the same one that is used for Dremel tools, as for the string, it's Woodstock, Powerstrike, white
~Link

But I would go with the upgrade that Printrbot has for the simple
~Link

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HKXKOG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is the NC version, which I recommend over NO ones.

I haven't looked at upgrading to belts yet, but I did have to replace the lines once. In case you're not quite ready for a large upgrade (or need to it to just work long enough to print the parts for the belt upgrade) here's the type of line to buy: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0084OR2T6

I replaced mine with "Heatshield Products 210042 HP Fire Armor Sleeve Black 1/2" ID x 3' Heat Shield Fire Sleeve" http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UPR1V4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00 from amazon. Cheaper than Printrbot and it's black. It works well and you get plenty extra.

In used this PEI sheet: https://amzn.com/B0013HKZTA

And this adhesive: https://amzn.com/B007Y7CZDM

Try to get the adhesive down as smoothly and evenly as possible. No overlaps or gaps if possible. I scored and snapped the PEI to match the build plate, then applied the tape to the PEI, then applied that to the bed.

I have (less of a problem now) sticky bearing on my bed. I took the rod out and repacked the bearing with the stuff below.

What shocked me more about this goop was the harmonic I was getting on my Y axis as the belt was rubbing against the plate. I lubed up the side of the bet and that noise/harmonic went away. I had tried everything including constant tensioning of the belt and bolts of the stepper. It was seriously driving me nuts (and the wife) due to the noise. Now whisper quiet..

http://www.amazon.com/Royal-Purple-Performance-Multi-Purpose-Synthetic/dp/B002KCWWFC