Best advice is to keep it simple. Focus on brakes and tires first! Do some basic setup and then recognize while you are on track when you are at the limit of your basic setup, then go from there.

You already have SS brake lines, good! Fill them with good 600°F brake fluid (several were mentioned already). Do this every few events and be meticulous about doing it RIGHT and making sure there are NO LEAKS. Safety first! This and pads are your #1 safety item. Then an instructor, then good tires, helmet, seat belts, etc. Again, keep it simple.

Parts:

Use whatever rotors are on the car for now, and buy a set of these as backup whenever htey start to warp: Centric 120.40048CRY Cryostop Rotor
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003K1H2V6

Brake Pads, order a set of Hawk HP+ pads. You will get advice all over the board on what is best and blah blah blah. These are great bang for your buck and you can street them as well.
Hawk Performance HB361N.622 HP Plus Brake Pad
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IEYNOM
Fronts are most important, do all 4 corners once you start to get comfortable with the car and/or go to a bigger track.

Think you're done with brakes? NOPE! Now let's talk heat. You're just starting to go on the track and want to be out for as long as possible to work on consistency and technique. If you're going to do any sizeable track with big braking zones you will want some way to keep the brakes cool. A lot of people poo-poo this step and then complain about how the stock brakes suck SO bad. I have had my s2k on CoTA, Road America, and BIR with zero brake fade with the setup I'm describing.
Option one: remove the dust shields, this will help reduce captivated heat
Option two: brake duct kit. DIY worked best for me:
-Lambert spindle mounts: http://www.lapponline.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65_66_67&products_id=180
-Front Bumper inlets. WASP makes nice stuff but they SUCK to deal with and idk if they're even in business anymore. Several other options out there.
-Aircraftspruce.com has all the ducts and such you need:
Qty Ship B/O Item Unit Price Total Price
11 05-29910 SCAT-10 DUCTING 2 1/2" 7.500 82.50
6 QS200-40H BREEZE CLAMP 200-40H 1.880 11.28
1 01-00990 RESCUE TAPE 1" X 12' BLACK 9.350 9.35 (helps with rubbing)
3 05-02200 RUBBER "U" CHANNEL 1.350 4.05
50 11-04229 7" 50LB NATURAL CABLE TIES MS3367-1-9 0.040 2.00
50 11-13475 14" 120LB NATURAL CABLE TIES MS3367-3-9 0.150 7.50
50 11-04058 14" 50LB NATURAL CABLE TIES MS3367-2-9 0.090 4.50
Subtotal: USD 121.18


Ok great, now you have good brakes, you already said you have RS3 tires on there, buy a nice tire gauge and keep an eye on pressures & tire wear!
Joes Racing 32307
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00404WDUC

While you're at it, check the oil. Seriously, these things can (but don't necessarily) burn through a lot of oil depending on conditions and the track. Just keep an eye on it and plan for keeping an eye on it. Not a bad thing.


Get a good basic alignment on the car, max out the stock adjusters for camber front and rear, zero toe front and about .25" total toe in the rear, then you're good to go! If you are feeling DIY-ish pick up a Quick Trick alignment kit to bust this out quick and easy in your garage or at the track.


Once you get comfy with the car however you have it setup today suspension/wheel-wise, you can start to look at a few next-steps. Do all of these at the same time as its the combo that shines over any one part.
-lowering springs/coilovers (I did ohlins, so awesome)
-front swaybar (A simple eibach will do!)
-front bumpsteer correction kit/spacers
-17x8.5 or 17x9 square wheel setup with 255/40-17 tires. RS3's, Maxxis, VR1, are great lapping-day options. RE71R for quick/short/fast hot laps.

1 rule: HAVE FUN!

You're better off buying new ones as you get fresh adhesive strips on the back, and you don't have to worry about fucking them up as you take them off. $20 each on amazon.

Here's what I did. Under $50, front and back emblems, including spray paint purchase.

These two emblems on amazon, front and back OEM:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BFDH8KQ

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FSCN9US

Scuff them up with sandpaper so the paint adheres better to the smooth surface of the emblems, then. Spray paint with flat black. 4 or 5 coats with some time in between to let each one dry. I used: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XG68SMM

Then put aside and let them dry.

Onto removing your current emblems:

Get some fishing line and 3M adhesive remover: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQYA7W

Spray the adhesive remover on the emblem on your car, then using the fishing line, work at the adhesive using a sawing motion to cut through the layer attached to your car. Once the adhesive is all cut, and you can move the fishing line around like you're flossing, you can pull it out and the emblem will pop out. In addition to the adhesive there are 2 little plastic spikes that stick into holes on your car body. That's the popping out part. You'll have to tufg at it to remove it. Some people break them, hence buying new emblems. Then spray some more adhesive remover and remove the crud left behind with a microfiber towel. If you have a lot of crud, you can use a plastic scraper like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HLWB0BM - or even a credit card... spray with the 3M product, scrape the crud, wipe the crud off the car, repeat. Was pretty quick and painless. Once you're all done, wipe off the adhesive remover with a microfiber towel, make sure you're all nice and clean, then peel off the plastic strips on your new emblems, put it in place, and viola. 10 minutes tops, not including the spray painting.

It should be at least 55-60F temperature to apply emblems properly. They won't stick in colder weather.

Good luck. Simple and easy upgrade. 15 bhp to the wheels.

I’ll post good after pics tonight on a separate post, the before pics aren’t great quality. Honestly the top was in great condition for how old it is, but I really baby this thing so I did it anyway very carefully. I’m very happy with the results. Already multiple people asked if it’s a new top.
Forever Car Care Products FB813 BLACK Black Top Gel and Foam Applicator https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001879CUS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KRm.AbFME1KSN

What year and how many miles? For brake pads I use Hawk HPS and use ATE BLUE brake fluid:

• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000COCNEA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CO665W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003VXRPL0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  For the clutch I've got the Science of Speed sport 400 (capable of 400ft/lbs torque) and an 11 lb Comp Clutch flywheel. If you're not making a ton of power the SoS comp 300 would be ideal.
  
  
• https://www.scienceofspeed.com/index.php/s2000/dpp/clutch-flywheel/scienceofspeed-sport-400-hybrid-clutch-kit-s2000-2000-09.html
  
  
• http://competitionclutch.com/base/products/flywheels/
  
  You'll also want to replace your thrust and throwout bearings and have your stock flywheel resurfaced if you are leaving it stock. I've got continental tires front and back (on stock style 1 AP2 wheels).
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014SLGEBA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E5AKV4Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
  I love the shit out of them. They grip well and are outstanding in the wet. The pads don't make any noise and the clutch is widely considered to be the most "oem quality" one on the market. You should definitely flush your tranny and diff while you're doing all of this. Honda MT gear oil in the gear box and Amsoil SevereGear 75w110 is my shit. The stuff I posted is marginally more expensive over the ~10%-15% cheaper stuff on eBay so just spend the money and keep it nice. It's worth it in the end.

I have used it successfully on the inside where the rear support bars scrape and eventually tear the top from open/closing. It has even held up in AZ summer heat and the physical forces of the bar scraping over it. For the outside, I have one patch of this stuff:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001DZDCNS?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

It is clear, looks.... reasonable.. It'll hold me over until I buy a new top in a few years.

If you have a cordless drill purchase the 3M lens cleaner: http://www.amazon.com/3M-39008-Headlight-Restoration-System/dp/B001AIZ5HY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1396048236&sr=8-2&keywords=3m+lens+cleaner

There are more than enough pads in there for 2 headlights. Take off your front bumper and put up your hood, this will make the task so much easier. Triple painters tape the paint around top and sides. Get a squirt bottle from Autozone, Homedepot, etc and fill it with water. Take your time, it should take around 45 minutes to do both.

Also do them at the same time, each step. Don't complete one and move to the other.

Afterwords protect and clean with: http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-PlastX-Plastic-Cleaner-Polish/dp/B0000AY3SR/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1396048450&sr=8-5&keywords=3m+lens+cleaner

It looks like this set of feeler gauges has the .009 and the .011.

However, they are referred to as "Overhead Valve" gauges.

Do you think they would work for the S2000?

http://www.amazon.ca/Stanley-Proto-J000R-Overhead-Feeler/dp/B001HWAD6Q/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1451354280&sr=8-4&keywords=proto+feeler+gauge

Thanks
James

I've done this swap with an LS1, so a few tips.

First off, check your coilovers with the front sway bar relocation. I didn't find out till later that the way bar end link bolts will dig into the coilover. After speaking with Import Muscle, I was told that they didn't test with anything but the OEM suspension

Second, if you find that the reverse sensor on the Fbody T56 is a little awkward because of how it sticks out, you can get these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C9MZI4
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C5DUI2

I'm sure there are some others, but I can't think of them right now. I'll edit this post if I remember any more.

Hard to beat the price and shipping of Amazon IMO.

• $11 OEM Oil filter
  
• $11 OEM MTF
  
• $11 75/90 Diff FYI. There is no OEM diff fluid.
  
• $8 A pump
  
• $13 OEM Grease for your shifter

For those of you attempting this, this tool will make it MUCH easier. Magnetized removal means no keepers flying about, and installation of the new retainer and keepers is a breeze

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-36200-Keeper-Remover-Installer/dp/B000P0ZJIS

A118-C Dashcam. I'm connected to the ignition accessory terminal with an inline fuse to the 12v to 5v and ran/hid the wire going to the cam along the pillar.







https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SNGSI9I/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TGQ1Y3Q/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HOV4VS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0094DFECI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I haven't tried. Mine gets driven even less than that but I keep it plugged in to one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0123-Junior-Charger/dp/B000CITK8S

Here you go!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GGTJFYY/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_JlCFDbKEE3KK8

https://www.amazon.com/Boeshield-T-9-Waterproof-Lubrication-liquid/dp/B000GE1F9K/ to hinges/metal parts. There's a screw on the inside of the handle for the handle cover and the cover pops right off.

So you have these? They look a little more complicated to install. If that's not them, what do you have? Remember I'm an audio-newbie, so anything that involves an amp or extra wiring confuses me.

This is the one I have, used the same one on my Audi and it lasted 2 years no problem. I took the screw out of the map netting and reused the same screw and hole for the cup holder turned out nice. It's on tight with only one screw in it
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000Q86IQQ?pc_redir=1410792062&robot_redir=1