(Part 3) Top products from r/StonerEngineering

TUTORIAL-ISH THING:

MATERIALS:

• diamond tipped drill bit (mine's 10mm but use whatever you prefer)
  
• Brass tubing (One tube the width of the glass drill bit you have, the other is the width of the bowl you're putting in it)
  
• drill
  
• hacksaw (or some other tool to cut metal tubes and cut slits in them)
  
• brass corner (no specific corner piece, it just needs to fit the two different sized tubes you have. Doesn't need to be perfect, since you'll be using silicone to hold them together, but the closer fit, the better)
  
• silicone (you can get it here, but they sell it at pretty much any hardware store, and you'll be there anyway for the tubing and corner piece)
  
• Glass jars with lids
  
  About the glass jars: I got mine at my local Hobby Lobby. They have an isle with all sorts of mason jars, bottles, and other glass jars. I pretty much just looked around there until I found ones that I thought would work well. The bottom two chambers are the same jar, and they're fairly large. They both have plastic lids that screw on. These lids are the reason that the bong can come apart. They don't necessarily have to be plastic, but it works out nicely. The reason I didn't use a third of the same one for the top chamber is because it would be too large for my mouth to fit when inhaling, so I found a smaller one that fit comfortably like an actual bong. the smallest one inside the middle chamber for the percolator is partly cylindrical shaped but goes in then flares out at the end. you don't have to use this type, in fact I almost bought the light bulb-shaped jar they have there but didn't because it didn't fit inside the larger middle chamber jar. Basically, when looking for the percolator jar, it needs to fit inside the larger middle chamber jar with plenty of room around it, it can't be too skinny because there needs to be a tube going up the center and there needs to be room for airflow there too, and finally it needs to have some room on the top AFTER you put the lid on the big jar. The reason for this is that in the lid of the large jar, you'll be drilling a hole in the middle that leads to the top chamber, so there must be room for airflow. for example, the light bulb-shaped jar when put inside the large jar with the lid on, it touched the lid, meaning that there wouldn't be airflow.
  
  Okay, so that's enough about the jars. Any more questions, just comment.
  
  PROCEDURE:
  
  
• Get prepped for drilling. prep your sink, have a towel on the bottom, get the water flowing, put your drill bit in your drill, and take any safety precautions you see fit.
  
• BOTTOM CHAMBER: drill a hole in the side in the bottom 1/3 of the jar. basically, when choosing where to put the hole, think about how high the water will need to be, and how high from the bottom of the inside of the jar you want your down stem to be. my down stem is about 1cm from touching the bottom of the jar, so the hole is at that height from the inside. from the outside, it's about 1.5cm or so (because of the thickness of the glass) Set the lid for this jar to the side for later.
  
• MIDDLE CHAMBER: Drill a hole in the center of the bottom of this jar. This hole will lead into the brass tube inside the percolator. Set the lid for this jar aside for later
  
• TOP CHAMBER: drill a hole in the center of the bottom of this jar. this hole will be where the smoke comes from the middle chamber. if this jar came with a lid, you don't necessarily need it unless you want to be able to put it on when not using the bong to kind of close it up.
  
• PERCOLATOR JAR: Assuming it has enough room everywhere inside the larger jar, you can start drilling holes in it. Since this will be placed upside down over the brass tube in the middle chamber, you need to have holes near the open end. I drilled four holes about 1 cm from the open end of the jar equally around it. You want the holes to be close to the open end, meaning that when flipped over, and silicone-d into place, the holes will be near the bottom of the middle chamber, which is what you need. The water level in the middle chamber will need to be above the holes in the percolator jar, but below the end of the brass tube that will be running up the center of the percolator jar. So yeah, drill a few holes around the open end of the jar, you don't need more than 4 holes, but you should put more than 1. I put 4 holes. If you have a jar that is the same shape as mine, you can see that there was a nice little dip in the jar that gave me a good place to drill them. if this jar came with a lid, you can throw it away. any more questions, just ask me.
  
• BOTTOM CHAMBER LID: you need to drill a hole in the center of this lid that will lead to the middle chamber's hole in the center of the bottom. The reason I had you wait until all the glass holes were drilled is because, if you're like me, you didn't get it dead center. So in order to make sure they line up, tape the lid of the bottom chamber to the bottom of the middle chamber and line up the edges so that it looks nice and isn't lop-sided. Take your drill, line it up on the lid so that it will drill in the same place as the hole, and make your hole. now that it's done, when you silicone the lid to the bottom the jar, it will line up right.
  
• MIDDLE CHAMBER LID: same as the bottom chamber lid, but line it up with the hole in the center of the bottom of the top chamber jar.
  
• YAY! now all the holes are drilled. But you're not done yet! not even close!
  
• TOP CHAMBER PART 2: easy. put a ring of silicone around the hole in the bottom of the top chamber jar on the outside, and also a ring around the edge of the bottom of the jar on the outside. stick it onto the lid of the middle chamber jar making sure the holes line up exactly. check to make sure the silicone made a nice seal around both the outer edge and also the hole in the middle. you don't want any smoke getting away! clean up any silicone that gushes out too much and make sure the hole is cleared out. set aside to dry for several hours
  
• DOWN STEM: okay, so this part has a lot to do with preference. take the tube that is going to fit the bowl you have. decide how far up from the corner piece you want it go. keep in mind that when you put water into the bottom chamber, it will fill up this tube to the same height as it is in the jar, so keep it high enough above the desired water level. you don't want your weed getting wet. cut the tube at the desired length, and silicone it onto the corresponding opening of the corner piece. as for the hole-size tube that goes into the bottom chamber, decide how long you want it to be (I suggest making it go almost the diameter of the bottom chamber), and cut it at that length. then, take your hacksaw or whatever and cut slits into the length of the tube. I put 5 slits in mine equally spaced along the length of it that cut about half way into the width of the tube. also, I cut 4 little slits into the end of the tube and use pliers to make them flare out, but this is not necessary.
  
• BOTTOM CHAMBER PART 2: now that your down stem is almost done, it's time to put it in place. put your diffused down stem into the jar and make it stick out the hole you drilled in it. while it's sticking out of the jar, silicone it into the corner piece so that the slits in the stem are facing down, and the bowl-sized tube is pointing up. then silicone the whole thing to the side of the jar. my corner piece has a nut on it, so that gave me a nice surface to silicone to the side. set everything aside to dry for a few hours.
  
• PERCOLATOR PIPE: take the rest of your hole-sized tube and cut it. The length of this tube needs to run from the bottom of the middle chamber jar's hole to ALMOST the "top" of the percolator jar. the best way to get the correct length is to hold the middle chamber jar in one hand, then place the percolator jar inside it upside down as it will be later on. then take the tube you have in the other hand and slide it inside the hole of the middle chamber jar ;) make sure it goes up far enough above the holes you drilled in the percolator, but not touching the closed end of it. mine's about 1cm from the closed end. mark on the tube where this point is and cut it at that point.
  
• MIDDLE CHAMBER PART 2: take the bottom chamber lid and silicone it to the bottom of the middle chamber with the same process as you did for the top chamber jar and middle chamber lid. take the tube you just cut, and silicone it to the hole in the bottom of the middle chamber. make sure silicone doesn't ooze out and cover the hole. you need good airflow through the hole in the lid, through the hole in the jar, then through this tube. set aside to dry for a little while, so that nothing is going to move around in the next part.
  
• PERCOLATOR JAR PART 2: take your percolator jar and put a ring of silicone around the edge of the open end. flip it over, and stick it in the center inside the middle chamber jar and around the tube that is sticking out from it. If you did everything well, this jar should be centered inside the larger one, and the tube should also be centered inside the percolator. if the tube touches the closed end of the percolator, you'll have to rip it out and shorten it and redo it. set all the chambers aside to dry over night.
  
  Holy shit that took a long time, but you're done! screw all the parts together, fill with water and weed and enjoy!
  
  again, if you have questions, just comment and ask me.
  
  damn, 9632/10000 characters...

I know -- rechargeable nimh batteries are the norm. The capacity is somewhat high, but not at all hard to come by.

Any big box store will at least have 2000 mAh batteries in the standard stock. From well known brands like Duracell.

Aside from all that, your original statement was false:

> The MFLB has a special battery that puts the positive and negative terminals right next to each other

It isn't special. It is an unwrapped rechargeable AA. Any rechargeable nimh battery is negative on the outer shell, the plaster wrapper is meant to insulate them.

I am pretty sure they are still using eneloops, which are relatively high capacity.

But then again plain old Duracell rechargeables are just rebranded eneloops, so that high capacity doesn't make them particularly unique or special or whatever.

All this and more is covered in my DIY MFLB guide if anyone needs some background info.

Silicone tubing available off Amazon for about $2.00 a foot. Food grade seems to be most popular for health and longevity reasons. As a bonus I still have a link from my last purchase off tube http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FMWTRU Sizes are up to you dependant on you gear. Good Luck

I am afraid yoyos are not sentient beings, they do not possess the intelligence nor the mobility in order to be taught a "new trick"

If you would like to learn more about this I highly recommend you this book

I wish you the best of luck in your learning journey.

I wouldnt use epoxy, thats pretty volatile. You may be better of using some silicone sealant. I think that would be safer to be sitting in water for long periods. Don't want any chemicals leeching into your herbs.
edit:something like this aquarium sealant may do the trick. http://www.amazon.com/All-Glass-Aquarium-Silicone-Sealant/dp/B0002ASD34

Get one of these and making perfect holes in lids becomes superrrrrr easy.

Lots of option here. From the incredibly simple (and not as accurate for a very deep hole) to the more secure to the more intricate setups where there is a separate chuck and you can set angles if you want to. Look around a bit and figure out what the easiest way for you to securely clamp the drumstick is gonna be then I guess decide from there what option you want to go with, that will also give you enough travel to be able to drill out the full length of the stick.

Edit: also something to keep in mind is the longer the hole, the more resistance you are gonna get so depending on the size of your hole the drag might get a bit excessive.

I use this Irwin Table Vice and this Remmington Hair Straightener and some parchment paper.

Take a gram or so of frosty nugs, compress them slightly, then place in the center of a folded piece of parchment and clamp the weed/parchment in the center of the ceramic plates. Then place the straightener into the table vice and compress until relatively tight. Now, keep the straightener at lowest heat setting, turn it on, and allow for it to heat until you begin to hear a light sizzling. Turn off the straightener, and compress the vice down as much as possible, allow it to squeeze for 20+ seconds (time and temp can vary between strains). Now remove pressure and see how much you yielded. Use a dab tool or toothpick to collect the rosin, consistency can range from crumble, pull and snap, shatter, or wet terpy oil. If it's too wet to collect, pop it in the freezer for a tiny bit to make it easier. Can also save the spent rosin chips to make edibles, or can be ground up and smoked.

Edit: grammar/spelling

Stronger repair - http://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8267-S-SteelStik-Reinforced/dp/B000786GLM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465149984&sr=8-1&keywords=epoxy+putty

Local hardware stores should have putty epoxy sticks like this for $2-3

This worked great for me in a similar break
https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8277-WaterWeld-Underwater/dp/B000BRQ0TW/ref=pd_bxgy_263_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=GQZ8XD981HBYPN0Z6KR7

These are only 5 bucks and they work great.

I made it about 4 years ago before I had heard of the bukket. It is an old collapsable canteen and we cut a hole in the cap and dropped a slide in. It is harder to fill up than the Bukket but has a larger space to fill with smoke. The closest I can find on amazon is this but that is probably too big to efficiently hit.

I bought this a few min ago. http://thistothat.com doesn't even have epoxies so I figured that epoxies are probably just as strong if not stronger than those.

Boom, and boom, plus youll need this. Feed the hose through maybe some rubber or something and use the rubber to seal the tube into your piece. Cheaper and quieter than an air compressor. This might not work for bigger pieces though.

internal shot

Parts list:

• Pelican 1120 Case
  
  
• Induction Coil Module
  
  
  
• Mosfet
  
  
  
• Momentary Switch
  
  
• Power indicator light
  
  
• Toggle Switch
  
  
• Power Supply
  
  
• Glass Test Tube
  
  Tools:
  
  
• Glass Cutter
  
  
• Connectors I only used 2 of the prong connectors for the toggle switch
  
  STL for 3d printing:
  
  All three files
  
  Wiring diagram:
  
  Terrible MS paint Diagram

https://www.amazon.com/FORMULA-420-CLEANER-CERAMIC-CLEANSER/dp/B000ZH8UU0/ref=sr_1_5?crid=3W4HRXVQIS71&keywords=formula+420&qid=1563970566&s=gateway&sprefix=formula+4%2Chpc%2C167&sr=8-5

https://smokea.com/collections/formula-420/products/formula-420-original-glass-cleaner?variant=13759588335718

Aluminum. I made it from 3/8" OD aluminum tubing from the hardware store (5$ for 3 ft.). I followed the instructions from a soundrone video after I picked up a tube flaring kit

ID should be ~a little over 1/2", I got 9/16". Should be out of silicone.

http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000FMWO8O/ref=biss_dp_t_asn (100 pack)

http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00M902A6G/ref=biss_dp_t_asn (500 pack)

Both currently sold out.

A glass bit is a normal household tool. They are not very expensive and you can drill lots of holes:
http://www.amazon.com/Mibro-456831-4-Piece-8-Inch-16-Inches/dp/B000FK3ZE8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1395952006&sr=8-2&keywords=drill+bit+glass

http://www.instructables.com/id/Glass-Etched-Glasses/

http://www.amazon.com/Armour-Etch-RECOMMENDED-CLEANING-GLASSES/dp/B0001DTWYG