(Part 3) Top products from r/TeslaLounge

Thank you!! Absolutely, here's the video that we watched and followed very closely: https://youtu.be/H9xn066qfKo

Some notes:

1. Must clean the calipers of all the dirt and grime from the road with this:
   
   CRC 05089 BRAKLEEN Brake Parts Cleaner - Non-Flammable -19 Wt Oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LDR9HI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fbdvDbZNSKSJG
   
   
2. Then, take a gritty sandpaper and polish the caliper so it's a smooth surface. Don't overdo it but just enough so the paint has an even surface to adhere to.
   
   120 Grit Dry Wet Sandpaper Sheets by LotFancy, 9 x 3.6", Silicon Carbide, Pack of 45 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075WV8PN9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NfdvDbPYQJ1VG
   
   
3. The paint is awesome but do thin layers and let it dry before doing the next coat. Took about 3-4 coats for full opacity. The paint gets thick and a little goopy (which is a good thing) sobog recommendation is to practice on another car's caliper first if possible or practice painting a can so you have a feel for how the paint moves and settles.
   
   
   
4. I used 3 brushes: a large flexible soft paint brush, grabbed two eye shadow brushes to get into the nook and crannies. If you or wife/partner is into makeup, there should be an unused brush stash you could use. If not, grab these at Target, they are exactly $1.
   
   A. Good for the holes in the caliper and very tight spots (I painted almost all the way to the back of the caliper to make sure it looked red at every possible angle).
   
   Check out this item at Target https://www.target.com/p/e-l-f-blending-eye-brush/-/A-14653397
   
   B. A stiffer brush for the verrrrry tight spots where the caliper meets the brake pad and you do NOT want to have Shakey hands and get anything near those pads.
   
   Check out this item at Target https://www.target.com/p/e-l-f-concealer-brush/-/A-13958833
   
   C. For extra measure when you are doing touch up in those tight spots (this one is $3):
   
   Check out this item at Target https://www.target.com/p/e-l-f-angled-eyeliner-brush/-/A-13586153
   
   
5. We did this project in one day, it took a good 7 hours counting in the time it took to get each one of Lord Commander's tires off one by one, carefully painting, carefully getting the tires back on then slooowly driving him back into the garage.
   
   
6. Do not drive for a good 24 painful hours to make sure the paint is dry.
   
   
7. Get these heat resistant stickers to apply after the paint it dry (so you'll have to take the tires off all over again unless you have a place to suspend your baby car for 2 days). You'll have some leftover and you can Teslafy anything you want. We did a quick wipe down off the already painted calipers to make sure the stickers went on clean.
   
   https://www.ebay.com/itm/TESLA-HI-TEMP-PREMIUM-BRAKE-CALIPER-DECALS-STICKERS-CAST-VINYL-/362070373338
   
   
8. Labor of love is an understatement but it gets easier with each caliper. You'll have a ton of paint leftover for future touchups but we've had no problems since doing this 3 months ago with both paint and logo. Take breaks because it's borderline back breaking!
   
   
9. You can spray paint also as seen here
   https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/want-painted-calipers-dont-want-to-spend-600-on-them.140873/#post-3346753
   
   My husband didn't want to do this method because prep looked much more intense and he'd figure I wouldn't mind a painting project on a cloudy Saturday afternoon.
   
   If you are in my state, I'd be happy to help. I'm new to reddit so not sure how to do the direct messages but let me know! Hope this helps! Please don't hesitate to ask questions when you start this. 150% worth the effort. It's beautiful and the Tesla service man honestly thought our SR+ was a P3. Even after pulling up the computer to look at the specs, he kept saying,"You're so lucky to have a performance!". I didn't have the heart to tell him it wasn't. Best of luck!!!

Here's what I sent to the couple of PMs I got asking similar questions...

I ordered these from Amazon:

Dupli-Color BFM0360 Dark Shadow Gray Ford Exact-Match Automotive Paint - 8 oz. Aerosol https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00407TU5U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4DxwDbP62JVFE

Sandpaper, Premium Wet Dry Waterproof Sand Paper, 45PCS 120 to 5000 Assorted Grit Sanding Paper for Wood Furniture Finishing, Metal Sanding and Automotive Polishing, 9 x 3.6 Inches. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KV3VX97/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NHxwDb65VSTCX

From there I started off using a 1/4 piece of one of the 240 grit pieces of sandpaper and spent about 5 minutes sanding off all the jagged edges of the curb rash. (Side note for your question: Pressure was about what you'd use with a scrubby sponge to get some stuck on food off a plate for all the sandpaper sheets, regardless of grit.)

Next I tore off a similar sized piece of 400 grit sandpaper and spent another 5 minutes sanding it down further to smooth out some of the larger damaged area into smaller issues.

Repeat another 5 minutes with 600 grit. Then 5 minutes with 1000, and finally 5 minutes with 1500.

Once you are done the damaged area should be shiny bare metal that should feel smooth to a light touch with your finger. (And leveling out the area is not really a problem. As bad as curb rash looks, it's mostly just jagged metal sticking up that gets sanded off. It's really not that deep that you end up with valleys and craters once you are done sanding. Technically, yes, the rim is "thinner" where you sanded, but it's a fraction of a millimeter so, and not really visible to the eye unless you get down real close and look for it.)

Next I cleaned it all off using nothing more than some Windex and a soft rag.

I then used a new small piece of 600 grit and lightly went over the whole area to make some tiny rough areas to help the paint stick to the metal better, and wiped clean the dust.

I then taped the tire and undamaged area of the rim to keep the paint off those parts, and sprayed on the paint using the instructions on the can. (Three light coats 10 minutes apart)

That's pretty much it. Someone else mentioned clear coat but I didn't use it. I though the result I got was pretty dead-on and didn't want to risk a clear coat make it look off or too shiny, then have to do the rest of the wheel to make it uniform - which would have made me then have to do the other three tires in clear coat to make them match as well. But if I down the road I change my mind, adding clear coat is as easy as the painting.

Anyway, it's time and labor intensive, but it's easy. Good luck!

Don’t buy the pucks, make ‘em, real easy. Takes about 10mins, only needs a screws/screwdriver. They fit perfectly.

(4 Pack) Rubber Screw On Bumpers - Shed Doors, Sliding Door & Cabinets
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GBFD3SH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_cd1mDb54F70ZV

A&R Sports Ice Hockey Practice Puck, Black - 4 Pack
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008875XYU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_Kd1mDb7DYT2CB

Costco rotation and winter tire exchanges are super cheap, and they have the right lift gear, used to Tesla’s etc.

Try out something like meguiar's clay bar or some such. Also, for lubricant, their quick detailer or something like Adam's detail spray I have noted below while claying works best for me. Also, when claying, I have found that after making a couple passes, if the clay has dirt in it, is discolored, or something similar, I use a hand slicer like below to remove the contaminants quickly.

​

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B001QVGUMO/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B001QGPHXM/ref=psdc_289783_t2_B0090JINY2

I was in the same boat. Here were my considerations...

• Fast write-speeds: to capture continuous video write to the disk
  
• Large Capacity and inexpensive stick: fewer read/write per sector makes it more reliable/longer lasting
  
• Large and expensive SSD)
  
• Endurance/commercial type for more read/write cycles and hotter/colder temps
  
• Small form factor: not so big/rigid to avoid possibility of breaking while in tight area
  
• WiFi capability: to get the data on/off without physical transfer
  
  and what i ended up deciding...
  
  Based on the feedback so far, I'm leaning toward the Sandisk Ultra Fit.
  
  In order of importance, my decision factors...
  
  
• The small form factor will reduce the chance of me hitting it accidentally and possibly breaking the port.
  
  
• It is fairly cheap at $19 for 64GB version. This allows me to store at least 1 day of video at least 2000 miles of driving (over a month of driving) and reduce the number of re-writes.
  
  
• The write-speed is not a factor, but USB 3.0 should be more future proof if Tesla changes the system, or if i re-purpose the drive to another task. If you want the older version with 2.0, it is even less expensive.
  
  
• Endurance doesn't seem to be a popular concern, so ignoring it for now. I am slightly concerned with operating temperature [32°F to 113°F (0°C to 45°C)] and storage temp [14°F to 158°F (-10°C to 70°C)], but we'll see how it goes this winter. Those more further north than me can report in if they have success or failure.
  
  
• I also ignored the WiFi capability because if i need to unplug the device, there is no reason to use it. I'm still curious if SD based cards like the Toshiba Flash Air W-04 would have a different behavior. I bought one for my digital camera, so i'll give it a try in the Tesla too. The cost is significantly higher, but if i can access dash cam videos from my cell phone and before getting home and without unplugging, that would be a big plus. (also need to find the right SD to USB adapter.)
  
  Thanks for helping me think it out.
  
  discussion here
  
  edit, changed recording time to distance driven, as it records while moving, not 24/7

I'm not sure why Safelite wouldn't repair but I have had great success with chips in my wife's car using this kit. The chip won't be noticable after. The kit also claims it'll be stronger than before the chip (sounds dubious though).

Rain-X 600001 Windshield Repair Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IPS4APU/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_h0rHDbDSJYYZM

My kid is finally big enough for a backless booster! We got this one on Amazon and it’s been great. Color really pops on the white seats too!

Cosco Topside Booster Car Seat - Easy to Move, Lightweight Design (Turquoise) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IP8AEXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_hGwjDbD2VCXYF

Ah dude nice. I’m subscribed. I work at UPS loading trailers, and your autopilot videos are easy to listen to with my headphones in while working.

I have no Tesla, so I’d have to try on my leaf lol. I’ve also seen full moon hubcaps . These as well most people would think are ugly, but could possibly give just a bit more efficiency to the aerodynamics of the car

Try Bar Keepers Friend, and see if you can improve things.

https://www.amazon.com/Bar-Keepers-Friend-Powdered-21-Ounces/dp/B008EN9XUI/

All of these: https://shop.tesla.com/product/gen-2-nema-adapters

And this: https://shop.tesla.com/product/corded-mobile-connector

In this repurposed Dewalt toolbox: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M3SP97Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_R3B0DbVARKYQT

Using scraps of this Fastcap Kaizen Foam 57mm (2-1/4") Black from another project: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007J2JJYK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TaC0Db2YE2QW8

Hope this helps. You could use other foam. This is just what I had on hand from another project.

Do you care about the mirrors? The chrome delete is actually not that hard to do yourself, if you skip the mirrors.

I did a chrome delete with the kit from Amazon and bought carbon fiber mirror caps from RPMTesla and called it a day. <$200

2x [3M Satin Black 5ftx1ft] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008OIQEG4/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) $30

1x [Model 3 Gen 2 Carbon Fiber Mirror caps] (https://www.rpmtesla.com/products/model-3-gen-2-carbon-fiber-mirror-caps-129-w-20-off) $139

I have mine hung on the wall https://cl.ly/433ae036f4dd

Using these hooks. Easy to install and when you want to remove leaves a small hole https://www.amazon.com/Monkey-Hook-Picture-Hanger-Office/dp/B001KVMNPI/ref=sr_1_1_sspa

Is this the box? Want to make sure I get the dimensions right.

DEWALT Tough System Tool Box, Small (DWST08201) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HNJPHO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KFF0DbMFQZFQA

You can get these on Amazon for $20.

I think what you want to look for is an electric cooler. I think there should be one the right size.
https://www.amazon.com/Igloo-40369-Iceless-Thermoelectric-28-Quart/dp/B007ZYIFQ0/

They are readily for sale: https://www.amazon.com/Celebrity-Machines-Delorean-OUTATIME-License/dp/B00EDX2NN2

Check your breaker box and see if it's a 20A or 15A breaker. If it's a 20A, you can replace these outlets with the 5-20 outlet and get ~1mph extra charge if you also get the 5-20 adapter from Tesla for your UMC (it all adds up when trickle charging).

If your HOA don't let you do this, you can get an adapter (ONLY USE THIS IF YOUR BREAKER IS ACTUALLY 20A!).

Most don't require a power source.

https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Degree-Rotatable-HB-UMN4/dp/B00LRYUJQS