(Part 2) Top products from r/Vive

> I'm gonna need extensions.

I had good luck with 10 foot for each via Amazon.

• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/
  
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  > Overall, setup was 9/10, but I'm giving it 5/10 because of the issues I had.
  
  Similar here. I can see how it's supposed to be very smooth and quick, and I think re-establishing setup (if I were portable) would be very quick, but I had a number of issues that prolonged things.
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > This does require you to have a lit room
  
  This was disconcerting for me as well as preventing me from using VR sometimes since my VR area borders the den/living room and the breakfast nook and my wife often vetoed the turning up of all the lights (in the evenings).
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > Controller tracking 8/10
  
  I'd only give them 6/10. It's highly dependent on tolerance, body type, play style, and which game / experience you're using. My thoughts: https://www.reddit.com/r/WindowsMR/comments/7qlhde/samsung_odyssey_owners_are_you_happy/dsq5nh5/
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > You will notice some black smear
  
  I started noticing more of it as I dug back through my backlog of games and apps. The Quake II SteamVR environment, Allummette (the night scenes), and the large theater room in BigScreen are three places that had pretty awful black smear that I remember. In other places it was not noticeable though.
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > Colors are also very vibrant
  
  I agree, I thought the color pop was excellent and fun in the Odyssey, and simply made me want to try a lot of different things to see what they looked like.
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > I think it's a tad bigger at least for me
  
  Interesting, my buddy and I both thought his Vive with DAS and 6mm pad had the slight edge in terms of FOV, as well as amount of pupil swim, and there was something subtley not quite as impressive about either the binocular overlap or just the "closeness" of images in the Odyssey, but it was still very good and the great contrast and higher resolution made up for it.
  
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  > The forehead pad and back pad are nice and comfortable with most of the weight resting on the forehead and off of the nose/cheek area.
  
  Eventually that forehead pad really started to dig into my forehead. I had a couple sessions that gave me real pain. Here was my solution: https://imgur.com/a/a9lqJ
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > The damn nose flaps.
  
  I totally agree! These would block about 70% of my nasal airflow! But there is an easy fix -- fold them back in behind the lenses. Works great, stays in place, and is easily reversible.
  
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  > They are comfortable and easy to position.
  
  I found them a bit hard to get a good seal with. The DAS seems more articulatable which helps get a better on-ear seal which gives it the potential for a bit more perceived bass and therefore a bit more balanced frequency response. But neither holds up against my Audio-Technica ATH-M50s. I'm hopeful the Vive Pro audio addresses that a little more.
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > If you are looking for a portable VR experience with a laptop or like to travel and show others VR without having to set up lighthouses or cameras
  
  Yep, that is definitely the big benefit of the Odyssey. It can't be beat for that type of use case. It was kind of lost on me (no laptop, single permanent VR space at home), and I eventually decided due to the substandard controllers and controller tracking that it was worth more turned back into $486 so I returned it after 8 weeks due to Microsoft's very generous holiday return policy. I knew I'd miss it (certain aspects of it) and I do. If I were more into sims and had a driving setup it would have been a tougher call by far.
  
  I do hope they pull together a version with more cameras that can handle the controllers getting close to the cameras and operate in lower light. Best would be some way to give the controllers actual inside-out tracking of their own using their own cameras but that might require a prohibitively large amount of information sent over Bluetooth (BT 5.0?) to the CPU for the Machine Vision algorithm.

PART TWO -- wrote this before seeing your VIVE arrives... basically tomorrow

-=- recommended accessories -=-
get the Deluxe Audio Strap. this is a MUST HAVE.

https://www.amazon.com/HTC-Vive-Deluxe-Audio-Strap-pc/dp/B06Y2GDXMC/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=htc+vive+deluxe+audio+strap&qid=1555922928&s=videogames&sr=1-1


i don't consider this an accessory...this is just absolutely CRUCIAL. installation took me ~15-20 minutes after watching a youtube video on how to install as the instructions that ship with it are ...lacking. there's a video of a german guy who shows you have to install it easily.... this strap adds not only great sounding, adjustable and comfortable headphones but (more importantly) will secure the HMD in a way that makes the default strap seem laughable. this deluxe strap allows more comfortable wear of the HMD, better cord management and eliminates the need for supplying your own audio (be it earbuds or headphones) while i ordered all of these "accessories" and received them before my VIVE, i decided to try the original / shipped strap before installing the "deluxe" and words can't describe the difference in fit, comfort, and how great the audio from the adjustable integrated earphones sound. the headphones are able to "snap" in an upright position when you are either removing /storing the HMD or just need to lift one up to hear something someone is trying to tell you...


-=-2nd suggestion for "accessories"-=-


probably most important second only to the deluxe audio strap.... get these tripods. you don't want to mount your lighthouses to your wall... with these tripods you are able to place your lighthouses without drilling/mounting. it is way worth the investment as the stands are very secure, adjustable and the lighthouses screw directly into them. no other parts needed, just these two stands... you'll realize that you might have to fine-tune/tweak the placement of the lighthouses slightly, and with these stands you are able to make adjustments (not only in placement but with the ball/swivel you are able to change the angle/pitch etc.) which you couldn't do if you mounted them.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B6FDKZ8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1


-=-honorable mention -- not necessary but recommended...-=-

when i purchased my vive i made sure to get a nice stand to set the HMD/controllers on... (...i went a bit overboard with other accessories and for brevity i'll only mention two more accessories that i think you should pick up) here's the HMD/controller stand i purchased for when either storing the vive or to set it on while taking breaks/cooling off... . it isn't an absolute necessity but it gives it a nice place to rest the HMD/controllers during breaks between play (you will sweat a lot even in a cold room, i know i'm out of shape but with titles like sairento, sprint vector, space pirate etcetc i take breaks just to let my face breathe and cool off.) this beats just setting the HMD on the ground or on a nearby table which could easily fall off.... your call, but -- again, protect your investment!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D1N5GP4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
-=-

"Skywin VR cable management system"
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0733NN7G8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


-- these are simply pullies that attach to your ceiling, allowing the cable to be out of the way of the ground... personal preference here but i find these very useful (especially with titles where i'm moving around a lot... sairento, gorn, QuiVR etc) ... protip: i went to walmart etc, purchased -several- packs of 3M "Command" large picture and frame hanging strips 16lb "large picture hanging strips" and have them all over my ceiling at different strategic places (depending on if i'm playing a title that requires my entire room i.e having to move my bed for the max. play area, or if i'm playing a title that requires only the smallest room setup or even for sitting) so using the 3M strips instead of the adhesive that comes with the pullies in the kit, i'm able to switch around the location of the pullies to suit each above situation...also, they remove without damaging your ceiling... if you have any questions on this just message me and i'd be happy to elaborate.
-=-
last accessory suggestion -- after watching videos of people punching holes in their walls etc. i decided to grab these protective frames which have saved my walls and possible harm to my controllers when demoing my vive to friends (even though when demoing i always have chaperone on "beginner", floor bounds on etc) it -never- fails that they will try to throw a grenade and hit my ceiling, swing a punch while playing Gorn and instead of my vive controller slamming into the wall, the cage around the circular top part absorbs the impact and deflects/redistributes the force from one point of contact to several. just throwing this out there, just in case you or someone you are showing it to will be inadvertently throwing your controller into your wall

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XDLMYMQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
-=-
final thoughts/closing: hmm. well, i think i said a LOT here and hope that your experience with installation is pleasant. again, let us all know how your first experience went and feel free to ask any questions.


welcome to the subreddit, welcome to the VIVE family and congrats on embarking on this journey together with us


--kyle

First thing anyone should buy is Deluxe Audio Strap. Can't stress that enough.

Vive-N-Chill is also really useful. It may seem silly, but it actually works really well. When I use any other headset for active gaming I really miss it.

Hyperskin covers for the controllers are awesome, comfortable, add grip and help with the occasional wall scrape. Though personally I ditched the headset one as I feel like it may trap in heat. Does look cool though. But the controller ones are a must have.

One of my absolute favorite VR accessories: 1" MMA floor tiles. Worth every penny. Way better than any thinner solutions and you can really kneel/roll around on the ground comfortably and stand for hours on it. Can be disassembled for transport and does not slide on carpet. They seem to be holding up to heavy duty long term use so well they should last for years through multiple generations of headsets.

My favorite face cushion for personal use is the stock foam one. Comfortable, breathes, and absorbs moisture and wicks it away. Nice to break out the fancy faux-leather ones for guests and stuff, but the original stock ones are the best for serious game sessions, at least in my opinion. Just hand wash it on occasion.

These guitar hangers are cheap and awesome for hanging controllers from when paired with some 10 foot usb micro cables for charging. Maybe not as cool looking as the special charging stand, but a whole bunch of pairs are great for different VR controllers if you have more than just a pair to deal with.

And, if/when you ever tire of the Base Stations' function to remotely power up/down automatically being fussy, slow or intermittent, then remote power outlets will make you happy. They make the base stations spring to life and sync in a few seconds compared to the slow blue tooth routine and power off when you want them off.

Cheap tripods are great for traveling, and I've given over a hundred demos with them, but they kinda get in the way, and the larger you make the footprint (to improve stability) -the more they encroach in your play space.

I use these tripods with these swivel adapter things for my on-the-road show. As long as they don't get bumped, you're good to go.

For home, I use This tension rod and this rod mount - you may need a longer rod- I run it from the top of my dresser to the ceiling and the top of my computer desk to the ceiling. The 87 inch one isn't long enough to go from floor to ceiling for me.

As far as other essentials, two of these help with plugging the lighthouses in. An HDMI Extender, Power extender, and a USB 3.0 Extender (those three work perfectly for me) will make your life 100x more easy, especially if your computer isn't directly next to your play space. The extra 10 feet makes a world of difference for reducing tangles, reducing the number of times you have to stop and untwist your cord, and making you not worry about yanking on your computer when you get to the far corner.

Lastly, this wireless keyboard thing will save you from running back and forth from your desktop.

---

As far as sweatyness, I got over the ickyness pretty quickly. My friends have mastered basic hygiene, and face sweat doesn't smell all gross or anything. After each demo, I run the foam under the sink to rinse it off, then dab it with a paper towel and set it on a box fan to dry. It's good to go as soon as the next person is done and I repeat the process. I ended up buying a set of new face foams from the HTC website after I lost my narrow face foam though :(

Details:

Based of this post by /u/veriix and the headstrap adapter by /u/nw15062 using this as the headstrap replacement.

It blows my mind how well it works. It took a bit of tweaking, sizing, etc, to get it set up just right. I was skeptical thinking it might only make a very VERY slight difference compared to the default Vive velcro straps... but thankfully I was mistaken. It makes a huge difference.

The headstrap seems to hug your head like I imagine the PSVR head-mount does. All the extra cushion really helps, and thanks to the slight downward angle of the adapter between the straps and HMD itself, there is a super handy pivot outwards effect that when worn, the headset just ever-so-gently slips down towards your face with only about ~5-10% of the pressure compared to the default straps.

Basically, it essentially eliminates the all of the weight from the HMD resing on your forehead / cheekbones... and taking it on and off is super comfortable as it pivots up and out, away from your face when taking it off or peeking out from under.

EDIT: After playing with it for a bit, I have came to the conclusion that it's about 20% more comfortable on the head, but removes about 90% of the front-weight face pressure. It could be more comfortable around the temples when tightening it all down.

If this is painfully expensive for you, I'd recommend getting neither one and waiting. This is early days of consumer VR, and you'll get better headsets for less money if you're patient. If you do go ahead, I assume you've already budgeted any needed PC upgrades to make it run well?

(1) Yes, integrated audio would be nice. The Vive has a headphone jack so it's easy to use your own without needing an extra PC-to-head cable. I got the Koss KSC75 for $15 - very light, excellent sound for the price, and they don't shift around when you move your head. According to rumors the Oculus integrated headphones may be Koss derived or at least very similar, so it should also work well for apps tuned for that.

(2) Up to you if you believe that STEM will have comparable specs, but even if they do end up working well I wouldn't expect widespread support in games and apps for them. You will want tracked controllers, and getting Oculus Touch will probably add a similar extra cost.

(3: Comfort) I get the impression that the Rift is more comfortable if you have the right-shaped head. People with large heads have complained it's not a good fit and that the Vive is more flexible with its soft straps, and it also has alternate padding for different face shapes. The Vive appears to work better with glasses.

(3: Display): The core display resolution and technology seems to be the same. The Vive has a bigger FOV and was measured to be 2.5x brighter, while the Rift has less screen door effect and appears sharper since it shows the same number of pixels inside its smaller FOV. Up to you which you consider more important.

(3: optics): not a big difference here, though it seems the Rift may have worse glare artifacts due to its finer Fresnel rings. The Vive seems less prone to light leakage due to better shielding near the nose.

Overall I think both are fine headsets technically, with slightly different tradeoffs. If you want the maximum image quality for movie watching, consider a Gear VR since that has higher resolution than either of them.

For me, roomscale is the deciding factor - I was convinced this is a must-have as soon as I tried it. The Rift can technically do this, but it's clearly not been a priority for Oculus so far, so if it's important to you I'd go with the Vive which has put a lot of effort into making it work well, including Chaperone and the front-facing camera.

> How does the camera work on the front?

Works perfect for me! Works 100% when plugged directly into my PC, and when plugged into a 50 ft USB Extender it still works fine but I have to set it at 45hz for some reason or it isn't picked up :o. 30hz does not work and 60hz does not work over my extender, but 45hz works great.

>What good uses does it have?

It makes it extremely easy to tell where you are without taking the headset off. While playing you can enable an "outline" view when chaperone comes up so you immediately know where you are, and what is around you.

> What do you commonly use it for?

Not smashing into shit! It's perfect for any game that asks you to move around a lot, or if you need to grab a drink or something real quick mid-game, and don't want to screw with the headset.

Edit: I forgot my #1 use! Not kicking my cats!

My cats fucking love to sit at my feet while I play Vive, and I check the camera every now and then to make sure no one is on the floor before I start a match of some actiony game :P

I've been using mine with a 100' extender for a while now. There's a few threads that describe how others have gotten theirs working (I'm too lazy to find them and link them to you right now though). Here is what ended up working for me:

I'm using this extender: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019MADOS8 for HDMI and it works ok. I paired it with the 100' CableMatters Cat6a cable (which I wouldn't recommend, but I cant find the beefy, quality cable in less than a 500' spool!) I ordered two cables and one was defective. It's also a thin for cat6a. Maybe we could get some people together and split up a spool of the good stuff.

I have to power cycle the repeater when I turn on the vive or else it freaks out and displays a broken signal, but it is holding up ok and I think it would work better if I cut off the extra cable length I didn't need and re-terminate the cable so it's shorter (I only needed about a 70ft run).

For the USB, I installed this extender: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013VP3372 but ended up sending it back. It worked, but it couldn't provide enough bandwidth to run the Vive camera along with everything else. Instead, I am just using a passive repeater cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0081LNQR4 which works perfectly fine. I have the 65ft repeater cable plugged into a 16ft non-repeater extension to get some extra length and this works flawlessly, I can even use the camera.

My lighthouses are about 8ft up and 22ft apart (using the link cable) and it all works very well. It did take some trial and error. Here's my advice:

• Try using your repeater with a shorter cat6 or cat6a cable (<10') - if it works, go and find the best quality cat6a cable you can find and cut it to the shortest length that will work and go from there. It might work, or you might need to find a better repeater. Mine worked fine for video signals even when it didn't for the vive so that's not a great test other than to prove that the repeater is functioning at all.
  
• I just re-read your post and see that you are using cat5e - try cat6a if you can, it provides superior range than cat5e. Also, test the cat5e cable you have with a computer (or purpose-built cable tester/certifier if you have access to one) to make sure it works at all. For what it's worth, I'm 90% certain my run wouldn't work with cat5e, it just barely makes it with the cat6a.
  
• I'd also recommend testing each (USB extender and HDMI extender) separately so one doesn't create problems for the other.

I'll just mention stuff I've tried myself.

If money is no object, multiple monitors or at least headless ghosts are ironically useful in virtual desktop applications like Bigscreen. I run 3x2560x1600 in one large screen. Bigscreen has an update coming for multiple monitors too. Big physical screens are nice for spectators/multiplayer.

Until the wireless adapter comes out, a decently long displayport cable and longer USB cable running to the link box to cover the large play area and if you have an original Vive, the new 3-in-1 cable with a sleeve.

I've been looking at [this overhead pulley thing](https://www.amazon.com/MDW-Retractable-Management-Headset-Adhesive/dp/B01M6EB8DM/
) but I haven't actually tried it yet.

Two Vives would be good, you can run them off the same 2 base stations and partition the space with chaperone. I run a Rift and a Vive in the same room.

Get an assistant/intern/wife/child to help you set up/put things away, maintain everything, patch/update, find new content, etc...


Accessories:

• Wireless headset/mic and an anchor for it
  
• HOTAS, pedals (CH Throttle, T16000M, driving pedals for Elite Dangerous)
  
• Force feedback wheel/pedals/shifter (old G25 here and the Simraceway wheel - surprisingly precise handheld wheel you don't mount to anything)
  
• Xbox one controllers
  
• Steam controllers
  
• X-Arcade/NES/whatever emulation controllers
  
• Leap Motion
  
• Charging stations and rechargeable batteries
  
• Locomotion options like Omni (Virtuix still hasn't shown up yet) / PocketStrafe / Wii balance board w/ GlovePie hacks
  
  You might want a good recording setup with mixed reality support as well.
  
  e: stuff I forgot
  
  
• Transducer like a buttkicker for tactile feedback in seated experiences (mine is a DIY) / Subpac wearable for standing
  
  
  

Why not use the screw? There's tons of clamps with 1/4"-20 thread that are meant to put lights and such onto various types of poles for film and such. I use them myself to mount my light houses onto vertical braces from harbor freight. (They have a smaller footprint than a light stand or tripod.)

Here's some examples of the ones I'm using.
Pedco 1.5 Ultra Clamp

This will grip even onto a very thin pole. For the record I mount them to these poles. Harbor Freight 2 in 1 Ratcheting Cargo Bar

Here's some other excellent multi purpose clamps but they need a ticker pole to mount.

Limostudios Super Clamp It's a clone of the more expensive manfrotto super clamp. They fit on the blue portion of the brace, not the thinner silver extended portion.

These clamps are pretty universal and you can get a number of different attachments for them. You could screw the lighthouse right on there but you couldn't really aim it without a ball mount or you could get an arm like this or this though that second one might wobble with the lighthouse motor. Arkon makes a good very sturdy clamp I've used to mount camcorders on for years though I've broken lots of the quick mounting plates over time. The arm is much stronger than the superclamp arm I showed earlier. There's also small clamps like this one

Also for the thread as someone else mentioned there are adapters. This is likely the adapter you need as that's the other common screw size you see. but I can't really know without seeing the tripod. Personally I prefer to use clamps and mount to poles anyhow, it gives you a lot of mounting options.

The TM 16000 HOTAS - I use this for ED - Super awesome for the price. Most HOTAS are overpriced. This one is fantastic for the cost. TONS of buttons and neat features on the throttle you won't see anywhere else! I love the little throttle finger joystick, it makes for perfect lateral and vertical movements to mix with the joystick movements. The X52 will match the in-game model better, but honestly while in VR and doing stuff you're not going to be starring at your joystick and throttle in-game model...like at all. Best budget HOTAS imo.

amazon link - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KCHPRXA/

Just got these Koss KSC75, but haven't tested them all too much.

They sound nice, are light and comfortable and super cheap. Not isolating in any way but I don't have a noisy environment and imho are extremely ugly, but they are just for VR so whatever.

I think I heard/felt the best positional audio in SPT with these today of any headphones (Sennheiser Momentum 2, Sony CD580, Vive Earplugs) I tried with the Vive.

Didn't mod anything just organized the cable a little. When I'm done playing I clip them on the side straps. Would appreciate suggestions for improving the cable mess or a permanent mounting solution.

/edit: Photos http://i.imgur.com/hIyKxR4.jpg http://i.imgur.com/NEqOrui.jpg

Sorry I should probably update that post, I tested out another one and it was much better then the KlearKare ones,

here's an update I posted in a reply on the rift forum,

"As posted in the Vive reddit, this is what I got for my Vive, I don't know what the exact size for the rift lens are though but for the vive, 49mm and 50mm works best. And yes they do curve with the lens too
http://www.amazon.com/Healingshield-Watch-Protector-Guard-1-97in/dp/B00SJ22D1K - imo the better version, more clear and not a wet application, you also get 3 - downside, longer shipping time since it ships from international location.




http://www.amazon.com/KlearKare-Invisible-Protector-Military-Protection/dp/B00BUJ354I - also very good but is a wet application and you need to squeegee the water out properly or it'll remain blurry in areas - you get 2
After 2 weeks with kleaarkare first, I decided to buy the healingshield version above to compare it to and the healing shield one was more clear IMO."

I have a Thrustmaster T.16000M FCS HOTAS setup, it's pretty decent and fits into the budget without losing out on too many features.

The throttle and stick are separated so you have the flexibility to position things where you want them. The cheaper HOTAS setups are usually throttle and stick combined with less buttons, if that doesn't bother you then you can save a bit more money.

T.16000M FCS HOTAS on Amazon

You also have the ability to add rudder pedals if you choose to do so but they are a separate purchase.

Good luck and hopefully you find something soon as it's pretty life changing for Elite and many other flight sims.

/u/caulfieldrunner Save up for this. If you can't afford this, just buy one T16000m joystick (got mine for like $35 I think) and use the keyboard for throttle etc. The t16000m is easily the best joystick for the price. A lot of people actually just buy two of the joysticks and play like that. I wanted to have a throttle in case I ever get into a proper flight sim game though. For space games, two joysticks is perfect.

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T-16000M-FCS-HOTAS-Controller/dp/B01KCHPRXA

Welding headgear- any should do if you happen to have one laying around, but you want to make sure it has 2 straps over the top instead of just 1 which you find with the cheaper ones. It provides more distributed support. This one should do. I use this one, but the one I found for you just seems better.

.


3D printable adapter piece that connects the Vive to the Welding mask. If you do not have access to a 3D printer this job may cost you ~$15-20.

.

That's it, all you would need to do it cut off the front piece of the mask so the sides are flush and use some zipties or velcro to attach the cable coming from the HMD to at least one of the 2 straps on your head for further stability. Overall the price to purchase everything fresh would probably lean around $40-45. If you feel the integrated headphones are worth if for the extra $55 + HTC Shipping then go for the DAS, for me though it was a non-issue.

EDIT: If you need pictures of my setup I can post them, but once you get the parts it's pretty intuitive what you need to do.

For that kind of distance, you'll likely need to transfer over Cat6- for both HDMI and USB. In order to do so, you'll need something like this for HDMI: https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=21609 and something like this for USB: https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-4-Port-Extender-Ethernet-GUCE64/dp/B013VP3372/

Note- Your existing Cat5 might work for the USB connection, but for HDMI you'll definitely need Cat6.

Also, at 50' you can get away with a good active HDMI cable from the likes of Monoprice. That is my current setup- 50' Active HDMI, and 50' Cat6 USB (using the USB adapter linked above). I will likely be moving to the Cat6 HDMI adapter, as I do have conduit from my office room to where we do VR, thus I can run everything through the walls.

Great thread and thanks for sharing! I'm ordering some of what you listed.. :)

Here is what I have already purchased and am using:

Mini tripods for the base stations as I haven't set them up permanently yet:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006I1KQQI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Wireless headset so I don't have to deal with the audio cable:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZC3S72I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Active HDMI cable as I'm running off my PC from the bedroom in my livingroom:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0186DNFLI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Active USB 2.0 cable again as I'm running off my PC from the bedroom in my livingroom:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004PLLA9U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also just ordered a set of 7' tripods for mounting the base stations:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HNZJLG4/ref=od_aui_detailpages01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Wanted to check back in and report how this setup works.

So I went with the route of HDMI for now, using this cable and this USB extender over cat5e.

Everything works wonderfully, haven't tried camera yet, but latency is unnoticeable for first tests, and I am incredibly happy.

I'll be ordering some bulk cat6 to try HDMI extender boxes with, and I'll report my findings later on.

I appreciate the help, again, this might work well.

Hi, I'm going to be building a new PC to use with the Vive, and wanted to get everyone's feedback on my build choices (I tried posting on /r/buildapc but hadn't gotten responses, and I'm interested specifically in Vive users too).

I'm salvaging the power supply, SSD, and CPU cooler from my existing build:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor | $219.99 @ Newegg
CPU Cooler | Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus 76.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler | Purchased For $19.99
Thermal Compound | Arctic Silver 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5g Thermal Paste | $5.65
Motherboard | Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $119.99 @ Newegg
Memory | G.Skill TridentZ Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory | $89.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Toshiba Q Series 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | Purchased For $179.99
Video Card | Asus GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Dual Series Video Card | $364.99
Case | Rosewill BlackHawk ATX Mid Tower Case | $39.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | Corsair Professional 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | Purchased For $139.99
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1220.57
| Mail-in rebates | -$40.00
| Total | $1180.57
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-11-24 08:34 EST-0500 |

Please let me know if everything looks good!

Also, for the Vive, I'm planning on purchasing light stands to hold the trackers. I'm currently planning on:

• StudioPRO Set of Two 7'6" Photography Light Stands with Carrying Bag for Photo & Video Studio
  
  
• 
  MDW 2 PACK Tripod Mini Ball Head for HTC VIVE Holder,Camera Camcorder
  
  Are those good choices?

i bought my key off of greenmangaming.com on sale for $14 dollars.

maybe they've changed since then but I definitely got it 3rd party.

this is the HOTAS I use. It works amazingly well. it's a perfect price/quality tradeoff

I have a usb extender i bought on amazon that works perfectly.

My setup goes PC -> ethernet extender box 1 -> ethernet extender box 2 -> link box.

Never had any issues getting it to work. Additionally, I run a TPcast, and a Steam Link. All of this pipes into my living room. It's a really fun setup, actually. The Vive is wireless and plays via the steam link on my TV. Great for parties.

I am so pumped for you! I love GORN and Devolver are a perfect fit, congratulations.

Your trailer perfectly captures what this game can do; it's the reason I bought this!
It's the only experience that makes everyone lose themselves and punch my wardrobe.

I refuse to take a code; I want to give you money.

In terms of sticky tape, mine fell off 2 hours after installing the lighthouses and pulled a bit of the paint along too :( I just bought 2 long tripods which work perfectly. You could get some off of amazon easily or take your lighthouse to a camera store near you and fit it on some tripods and see which ones you like!
EDIT: These seem good and are pretty cheap too.

I bought https://www.amazon.com/MDW-Updated-Version-Protective-Controllers/dp/B06XDLMYMQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1497313793&sr=8-2&keywords=htc+vive+controller+protector

I haven't used them yet, just assembled before work... The side sensors are outside of the cage... but if you bump something lightly it puts my mind at ease compared to just the controller taking the bump.

The plastic is a little flexible since it isn't as hard as the controller plastic... but I don't think it would save anything if you punched it through a wall since I don't think the plastic is really that strong enough.

If I remember to update this after I use them and bump something I'll let you know.

I don't know about him, but to extend my Vive by 30 feet to my front room I purchased this active HDMI cable and this Ethernet 4-Port USB Extender. I think the USB extender is more useful than an active USB cable as you have 4 different ports to add things like keyboards, mice, or racing wheels, and you also have the option to extend it further in the future just by buying another Ethernet cable.

These are the light stands I use:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001WB02Z4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These are the ball mounts I use:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M07M9D4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I don't have issues with them but they aren't my permanent solution. I bought them because I take my Vive to a lot of different places so it nice as a mobile solution. The ball mounts are great but I'm not use how the stands would do over long periods of time. But for now, they are perfect. They do however come with little draw strings bags that are pretty shitty.

I bought these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XDLMYMQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They make the controllers very heavy. After taking both the protective shell and skin off the controllers it felt like the controllers had no weight to them at all. I took them off because I was having tracking issues and because I'm not doing anything but development right now. Most likely the tracking issues are my own fault - my setup isn't the best and I haven't taken the time to improve it.

I am 6'5" or so. I hit my ceiling when playing games, so the shell is great for protecting my controllers. I'd recommend them for problem games but not for full time use.

Edit: Not on topic but this is the best accessory I've bought. Two switches to turn the lighthouses off. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CWNMB86/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This smaller Anker one lasts me just as long as the one HTC shipped with the adapter; around 2.5 hours of continuous use.

This larger Anker one lasts me well over 4 hours. I haven't actually had it die on me yet; my longest playsession since getting the adapter has been around 4 and a half hours. It is decently bulky but it does fit into the included battery clip that the adapter comes with. It's just too large length wise so it will stick out the top of the clip. I wouldn't worry about it falling out of the clip though since it is a snug fit.

Also, this wall charger with QC 3.0 ports works with powering the wireless adapter. I've used it for when I'm doing sim stuff in the corner of my room. Having to plug in the wired Vive Pro cables for sim use is a real hassle so I just keep the wireless adapter on and plug the adapter into the wall charger. Works flawlessly.

Yep. Sounds like the hub is being overloaded. I don't use a USB hub at all but I do use a good quality extension cable, this one specifically: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179MXKU8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I plug one end directly into a USB 2.0 port on my PC and plug the breakout box into the other end. I use this HDMI cable going from my video card to the back of the breakout box:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0186DNFLI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(Must be active like this cable)

Zero issues with this setup and I have my Vive connected from my office computer to my living room.

If you're gonna do Bluetooth, make sure you have a powerful radio, or else you'll get lots of dropped audio. It's also possible that the Vive only outputs to the headset, and by extension, the 3.5mm jack on the headset, in which case it wouldn't be an option without a lot of tweaking or reprogramming.

Any stereo headset/headphones will do 360 sound, because you only have two ears; the 360 part comes from processing the audio on the CPU end (based on the estimated location of your ears from the position of the headset).

Personally, I'm vacillating between a cheap pair of on-ear headphones I bought (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006B486K?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00) that are actually pretty solid, or wiring up my Philips bluetooth headset (http://www.amazon.com/Philips-SHB7000-28-Discontinued-Manufacturer/dp/B00CAJOOWE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1456873525&sr=8-2) which has the advantage of being easier to put on/take off.

Exactly!
But honestly the small hangers they include are pretty good and running your light house up to a permanent place on the wall isn't a bad deal considering it gets rid of any space concerns.

But consider something like this as well - https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Household-Appliances-Unlimited-Connections/dp/B00DQELHBS/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1551114394&sr=8-6&keywords=remote+switch

So you can turn stuff on and off from one area and don't have to plug/unplug each lighthouse when you want to use or put away. Something like this lets you just control power remotely. I had AUKEY ones that apparently aren't sold anymore so I can't link them. There should be some better ones that are smaller in my opinion, but it made turning off the whir/whine sound of the lighthouses much easier than plugging/unplugging them over and over.

I use this tripod, but it does come with two tripods. Maybe you could find a solo elsewhere, but having two allows you to take your Vive to somewhere and set it up for demos. Did that at a friend's house a few months ago and it worked great.

Also make sure you have a mount of some kind to make sure your lighthouse can be positioned accordingly.

Thanks for posting

Unfortunately, new and low karma accounts cannot create submissions in /r/Vive. Please participate in the comment sections first. The participation requirement is minimal. Do not message the moderators asking for an exception


------------------------

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Custom Head mount for vive by nw15062


Hi,
I wanted to share my creation, my original Vive head strap started to come apart so I sent it out to be warranty replaced, in the meantime I bought a welding mask headgear from amazon. Removed the front strap and 3d printed some left right bracket.

This unit allows for depressing a button on each side and removing the HMD by pulling it forward from the face, quick release essentially, leaving the head strap on your head while removing the HMD. also the knobs on the side can be loosened and the whole thing can flip up onto my forehead.

I have the STL files for 3d printing if anyone is interested I have posted them because I am continuing to make fine modifications.

[Head Gear] (https://amzn.com/B00826AM7A)
(http://i.imgur.com/AbpRteQ.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/GmJO2tg.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/eTn3yJ3.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/Bu8ALe1.png)

I hope the images display properly, this is my first reddit post.

	

	

	

I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please contact the moderators of this subreddit if you have any questions or concerns.

I do a VR night at a local pub and have used the mounts I'll link below also. They do a great job. Also if you don't want to use your stock lighthouse electric adapters (I can't use mine because I have them ran under wire covers) these work great also. Just will need an extension cord.

Smatree Ajustable Jaws Flex Clamp Mount 13.4" Gooseneck Extension for GoPro Hero 5/4/3+/3/2/1/Session / for Ricoh Theta S, M15 Cameras/ for Compact Cameras(1/4" thread) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MWNYGUS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_B-pHybZNRWQJA

ALED LIGHT® 12 Volt 3 Amp LED Strip Light Power Adapter, AC to DC, 2.1mm X 5.5mm Plug, Regulated 12v 3a Power Supply Wall Plug for LED Strip Light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013SSU92Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_a1sWXNPht7UyF

Awesome post! Thank you! Could you recommend a bag for my tripods? I'd like to carry them with this kit when needed.

>I bought a 10000 Anker pack.
>
>https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerCore-10000mAh-Qualcomm-Compatible/dp/B01JIYWUBA?crid=2ZXNDNSN8PQBC&keywords=qc+battery+bank&qid=1540516385&sprefix=qc+ba%2Caps%2C179&sr=8-19&ref=sr\_1\_19
>
> Fits in the holder and works great.

How's that compare to the base battery? I'm not up on battery stuff. Does it have a larger capacity?

> I'm on a 4770k slightly overclocked with just regular ram and a 1070. OG Vive, can't tell a difference from wired. Oh, except now we don't get tangled and can wander much farther out. The wire length restricted us.

I'm more worried about the Ryzen "blue screen" issue or whatever. Performance I expect to be decent. I have a nice setup.

> These things are weird. I've seen users with better specs get worse performance and all kinds of problems. I plugged mine in and did everything in the instructions. Only difference is I mounted my transmitter high. It works flawlessly.

Oh yeah, mounting the wire... My play space is across the room and the clip doesn't attach to my monitor well. I'm thinking about getting a small shelf or something to just put up close to the ceiling from the opposite corner of the room from the play space and hoping that works okay. For now it's just strapped to the monitor aimed towards that area.

I needed the exact same thing. This is what I went with from amazon. They work great. One is the set of the tripods and the other is the mini ball head you will need for each lighthouse with the tripod.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012FTXOW4/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001WB02Z4/

I would also recommend extending the triple cable an extra 10 feet. You won't be able to keep the cable and HMD in the box after adding the cables, but it doesn't get tangled as easy and just works better when having other people try it for the first time.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FT9VW0O/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0008JHB14/

Thanks for the info! We ordered and tested these two cables (briefly) -- both seem to work! Signal strength seems good and the headset seems to work fine so far

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AUQF8VY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (1m)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071Y7FXWW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (2m)

​

​

I use this: Anker PowerCore Speed 10000mAh,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JIYWUBA?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Fits nicely into the belt clip, charges fairly quickly and lasts twice as long as the vive battery. Definitely recommend it

On a side note, I was having trouble with my headset having grey flashes which is why I purchased a new battery in the first place (figured the usb port on the battery was too loose). It turned out I needed to replace the usb that connected the battery to the receiver as well. Was super annoying but glad it was an easy fix.

$27 for a set of 2 photography light stands: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001WB02Z4

$10 for a pair of swivel mounts so you can angle the base stations however you like: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M07M9D4

One advantage with these over the other suggestion in this thread is that this setup doesn't need to touch the ceiling to work.
I can confirm these work great for bringing a Vive around to random places, and works well even on soft surfaces like carpet.

Ninja mask for hygiene is your friend, I use them for demos all the time. Won't keep sweat out but helps with direct contact face oils. Also get comfortable in adjusting the lens distance and set them back for people with glasses so they don't damage the lenses.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DHKBVQQ

I am one of the buyer in US and buy it from TaoBao international, for a little bit overpriced US$360 (Original price was $290). Plus around $50 shipping.
Some of the TaoBao sellers ship overseas, but yllwstn is right they don't ship battery due to the restriction. However In US you can get the alternative battery from Amazon, its the same model of the original one and it works for mine.
So feel free to ask them if they would take out the battery and ship overseas, I believe they appreciate to do that since they can re-sell the battery ...

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerCore-20100-Capacity-Technology/dp/B00X5RV14Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1493685874&sr=8-3&keywords=anker+portable+charger+20100

These worked well for me, but if you need to go over 25 feet you're going to need an active HDMI cable instead:

• AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI Cable - 25 Feet (Latest Standard)
  
  
• IOGEAR USB 2.0 4-Port 164' USB Extender Over Cat5/Cat5e/Cat6 Ethernet Cable (GUCE64)
  
  The 4 port USB extender worked out great because I can have the Vive, my Xbox controller, and my USB headphones all hooked into it with a plug to spare.
  
  
  
  

I highly recommend you grab this. You just press a button and the stations turn on and off. I can even use it way across the house. Makes turning them off freaking quick and when you demo to people it looks cool to just (already have PC on) turn on controllers and hand them the headset as you press 2 buttons on the remote to power on the base stations.

I've had them for ~3 years now for my front room which has lava lamps and other light up geeky stuff. When I got Vive on launch, these puppies were ready to help make startup easy.

Get a outlet remote to make things easy. I have my lighthouses and headset hooked to these.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQ2KGNK?th=1

I realized mine was staying warm when I first got it, also the bluetooth didn't turn off my lighthouses sometimes in one of the early software versions. So I got a remote hooked to all three and can turn them off and on super easy now.

I use my Bose headset but just ordered these.

http://www.amazon.com/Koss-KSC75-Portable-Stereophone-Headphones/dp/B0006B486K?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_6&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Because I want a lightweight, comfortable solution that won't sweat a lot and ones I could figure out a way to attach them to the Vive headset. These had great reviews for the low low price of 15 bucks!

Because you are living in a rental, use something like this instead:

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Aluminum-Tripod-Stands-Softboxes-6-23/dp/B003I6ENXS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1511914647&sr=8-3&keywords=lighting+tripod

I mounted mine on those, allowing me to put them away or move them easily. I also use the cable to pair them instead of fiddling with getting perfect line of sight. It will give you a lot less headaches, and a lot more play time.

'xl battery pricing yet to be determined. '

i dunno i have a pretty good idea what it SHOULD cost.

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerCore-20100-Capacity-Technology/dp/B00X5RV14Y?th=1

Would be hilarious if they randomly decide to sell ankers battery with a 100 percent mark up.

Hi,
I wanted to share my creation, my original Vive head strap started to come apart so I sent it out to be warranty replaced, in the meantime I bought a welding mask headgear from amazon. Removed the front strap and 3d printed some left right bracket.

This unit allows for depressing a button on each side and removing the HMD by pulling it forward from the face, quick release essentially, leaving the head strap on your head while removing the HMD. also the knobs on the side can be loosened and the whole thing can flip up onto my forehead.

I have the STL files for 3d printing if anyone is interested I have posted them because I am continuing to make fine modifications.

[Head Gear] (https://amzn.com/B00826AM7A)

[Photo 1] (http://i.imgur.com/AbpRteQ.jpg)

[Photo 2] (http://i.imgur.com/GmJO2tg.jpg)

Photo 3

[Bracket] (http://i.imgur.com/Bu8ALe1.png)

I hope the images display properly, this is my first reddit post.

I've had similar problems. I ended up replacing the power banks and cables. For anyone else looking - the power banks have to be QC3 aka Qualcomm Quick Charge 3.0 (or presumably above).

​

I found the power bank connection had broken the port the charging cable goes in just from a bit of general usage!

​

Been using the following with good results:

​

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07GJ4BTVR/ - Spiral Coil USB Cable USB 3.0 Male to Female Extension Cord 1.5 m/3.3 Feet - I bought thinking it might mean the cable drags around the female part of the extension when moving around instead of drag being created on the power bank itself

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B079Z3XJ9S/ - wall charger - for charging and also as an experimental pass through for a mains connection, though not sure how much that's safe as such as there's no auto-off!

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07FF151SZ/ 20000 mAh power bank (don't fit in the clip)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B076YBGLHV/ 25000mAh power bank - (seem to be unavailable atm unfortunately)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01N0X3NL5/ - 20000mAh power bank - these fit in the clip that comes with the kit but poke a lot out as they're much longer and higher capacity

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01JIYWUBA/ - 10000 mAh power bank - these fit perfectly in the clips

Here's the page I used:

https://www.reddit.com/r/Vive/wiki/cables

and this is what I bought:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I48Q892/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B013VP3372/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I ran these from my bedroom upstairs, through the vent and down into the livingroom closet (there was already a line drilled for the network cord). Fed the HDMI and the Ethernet line down to my entertainment center and it works like a charm, not even any lag. Genuinely surprised. Well... minus the camera situation. Not sure if that's because of my setup or if it's a setting issue.

So these are small things that may or may not be useful to you but I bought them when I got my Vive and if I were buying again, I'd get these again.

To extend the cable I got HDMI Extenders and USB Extenders. This gives you another 10 feet of cord to play with.

Also, switches for the lighthouses. You may find that using Bluetooth works fine, but I like physically switching mine on and off.

If you plan to move it around (take to places for demos) then I have some other recommendations too.

Yes, at least for me after a few hours. Just don't push yourself and take breaks. I've logged 21 hours so far and don't get it at all anymore.

I have 1.4 set as my SS in the SteamVR ini and VR set to medium with my GTX 980. It is still grainy but I find the text fairly easy to read. Works fairly well though I can notice a little struggling in stations. Asynchronous reprojection works well for this game since it is a seated experience so make sure it is on.

If you are looking for a HOTAS system I'd recommend this one. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KCHPRXA It is newer and built with Elite Dangerous in mind with a built-in profile for it in game. I came from a Xbox 360 controller and it was well worth it.

This HOTAS is great for a budget but you may run out of programmable buttons.

This is the HOTAS I use for Elite, I personally think it is the "best bang for your buck". The HOTAS also comes with a twists stick so you don't need pedals.

For the future try these! Great invisible screen protector. They work great and do not alter visibility. Just had to cut a little off to fit right.

Got the Thrustmaster T.16000M FCS HOTAS for 100€ and love them. Think they are the best for beginners if you look for mid range ones.

HTC sells that same battery pack on their phone site here: https://www.htc.com/us/accessories-b/

But it's $80!

​

Here are some very similar looking battery packs Anker & Aukey that MIGHT fit in the battery belt clip (hopefully), that cost about half as much.

Anker:

https://www.amazon.com/Upgraded-Anker-PowerCore-Qualcomm-Portable/dp/B01JIYWUBA/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1538024111&sr=8-13&keywords=10000mah+portable+charger

Aukey:

https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-10050mAh-Portable-Charger-Qualcomm/dp/B06ZYCQJHV

​

I have a few battery pack 2x and 3x the capacity of what the HTC Wireless brings, but something that will fit the HTC battery belt clip would be nice.

​

​

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MWNYGUS

Love them so far. They are super adaptable.

Chances are you'll want to angle them down for optimal coverage. You can mount them directly into concrete/brick. Just drill with a masonry bit and use anchors.

However, as another user pointed out if you are putting up shelves and they are wood you could just attach the mounting bracket right to the shelving or purchase a clamp mount like this, this or this. The bolt size is a 1/4 20 which is the standard for consumer cameras tripod mounts so you can find tons of mounting options out there.

If you search a bit you can find tons of mounting alternative threads like this.

A real pair of headphones. Headphones marketed as "gaming" "5.1" "7.1" etc are just kind of crap. Wireless headphones are usually just crap in general. The G930s are heavy, they cause (or are affected by) interference/dropped connections, they feel sloppy and cheap and when you wiggle them around the flop around like a limp penis... i can go on.

Get a real pair of headphones like Sennheiser HD558 or Audio Technica ATH-m50. I own a Senn 558s and they are seriously the most comfortable thing I put on my entire body everyday. I can wear them literally all day with absolutely zero discomfort. They sound light years better than "gaming" headphones. They come with a long cable(which is nice for you PC) so I just ordered a shorter cable on amazon. I'll probably shorten even further so it's not an issue at all when I plug it into the HDM cable.

As a back up, I just bought a pair of these Koss KSC75 because they come highly recommended for the price. I expect I'll be using these to take away from the bulk of having headphones on top of an HMD at the same time. They haven't arrived yet so I can't personally speak for their quality or comfort, I just know a lot of people in /r/headphones recommend them as a cheap alternative to buds. Some people say they rival headphones in the $100 price range in sound quality.

Look around /r/headphones. I owned a few Turtle Beach gaming headsets, a few Logitech gaming headsets, a Tritton gaming headset in the past 10+ years. It wasn't until I bought my Sennheisers about 1.5 years ago did I realize what awesome sound is and how comfortable headphones could be. I don't know if you were ever a console gamer, but to me, getting quality headphones was like taking that first step into PC gaming and realizing what you'd been missing out on.

I agree about the x52 quality, it can be hit or miss the little screen on mine went out after about a month, I never use it anyway but it's still annoying.

Are you referring to this one by chance? https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T-16000M-FCS-HOTAS-Controller/dp/B01KCHPRXA/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1500495791&sr=1-2&keywords=flight+sticks

That's the first time seeing it. I've only seen the single/individual stick models before, but I could never go to a dual stick setup I need to have my throttle for the left and .That package seems pretty nice though. I still think I'd prefer the X52 or just move up to a warthog though I couldn't go without my 2nd hat on the stick either.

I suggest replacing the bundle,

https://www.amazon.com/HTC-Vive-3-1-Cable-pc/dp/B01MQW49B3/

They have the actual OEM cable. Otherwise, it might be a tight fit to put in another cable. You'll need very thin connectors to fit in the slot on top of the headset.


https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=13590

​

Something like that would probably work, notice the very small head compared to the golden connector. But it becomes a durability issue. A general off the shelf cable isn't usually meant to be moved around and tug at all day.

I have my entire vive setup (both base stations and link box) connected to a remote outlet I bought on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQELHBS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1504725565&sr=8-3&keywords=remote+outlet

I turn them on with a press of a button only when I use my vive. It works great! If you can, I recommend doing this so the stations and headset aren't always getting power.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X5RV14Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 is the battery that comes with it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BPU0VCK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 is the mounting hardware I bought. It's smaller then it looks like in the photo.

You might also want a better belt for the battery. Theirs is okay, but you can do better.

The key is you need to extend BEFORE the link box, the linkbox cable to headset needs to be the normal one. I used an active HDMI cable to go 40feet from my PC, then a USB extender (uses a cat6 cable) to extend the USB. IT worked fine, i had zero issues. I actually ran another 40foot active HDMI to mirror to the TV in that room and had no issues with either.

​

HDMI cable:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0186DNF4K/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

usb extender:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013VP3372/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

You'll need to supply the cat6 cable for the usb side.

SOLUTION: http://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQ2KGNK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1463308319&sr=8-3&keywords=remote+power+switch

One press of a button - done. BTW: I don´t have a good feeling that my HMD is always warm - even when turned off. So i will use this for the powerplug of the VIVE also.

800$ for vive and you would like this integrated? : http://www.amazon.com/Koss-KSC75-Portable-Stereophone-Headphones/dp/B0006B486K

Those are integrated in oculus probably.

I assume people who spend that much on vr also have good pc and good headset.

Better link to actual product op references:
www.amazon.com/dp/B00BUJ354I

Bonus! It says boob!!

Adhesives don't work great, try one of these instead. I've had great luck with them and they don't take up all the room a tripod does:

https://www.amazon.com/UltraClamp-Assembly-Cameras-Binoculars-1-5-inch/dp/B000ABB4HC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1482970706&sr=8-2&keywords=camera+clamps

https://www.amazon.com/SmallRig-Ballhead-Multi-function-Adapter-Standard/dp/B00DJ5XH4O/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1482970706&sr=8-3&keywords=camera+clamps

There are a few other similar types hit up the search phrase camera clamps on amazon.

I'm going with IEMs for personal use and on-ear clip-ons for demoing to people. These are super cheap and very, very nice for the price.

Koss sport clip design - very secure. Best cheap headphones I've heard.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006B486K?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

https://www.amazon.com/UltraClamp-Assembly-Cameras-Binoculars-1-5-inch/dp/B000ABB4HC/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1487812752&sr=8-7&keywords=clamp+1%2F4+20


Haven't used them, but it looks like it'd work, and they have good reviews.

Some have noted that these (https://amzn.com/B00DQ2KGNK) have worked like a champ for situations like yours.

If you want 50ft HDMI I can confirm that this cable works perfectly, camera turned on and everything, for only a couple bucks more than the OP's cable. I'm using this extender for linkbox power and two of these extenders for the lighthouses.

It really is nice to move your setup to a much bigger play space, and being able to extend so far is really handy.

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Aluminum-Tripod-Stands-Softboxes-6-23/dp/B003I6ENXS/ref=sr_1_44?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1466330295&sr=1-44&keywords=light+stand

https://www.amazon.com/PBL-Stands-Studio-Photographic-Lighting/dp/B007F0GBD8/ref=sr_1_22?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1466330287&sr=1-22&keywords=light+stand

https://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-Photography-Light-Stands-Cases/dp/B001WB02Z4/ref=sr_1_2?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1466330083&sr=1-2&keywords=light+stand

There are a few, hope that helps. I'd suggest getting a little ball joint for the top

I'd say it really depends on how you want to carry/mount it. If you don't plan on HMD mounting it and you don't care about weight, I've seen batteries as big as 30,000 work. If you are planning on mounting it to the HMD I'd recommend sticking with something as close to the stock HTC battery as possible like this. Also, if you have access to a 3D printer this is also helpful.

I used these https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BUJ354I/ back before the Hyperkin ones came to market, they are wet application so in my experience are easier to apply without dust /air bubbles underneath.

I gave them a quick trim with some scissors before applying as well and now I can't even tell they are there.

Its probably better to put the protectors on the Vive rather than your glasses, as if you ever let someone else with glasses use it, their glasses wouldn't have said protectors on and would scratch your vive.

Welcome! I have a few suggestions that might help you out

• For you connectivity issues- you can get a cheap $10 displayport to mini displayport cable so your display can stay on HDMI. It seems you already know that, but hopefully you won't need your workaround very long
  
  
• For the sickness, have you set the IPD (Inter pupillary distance) on your HMD? There's a small knob on the right. You can measure this yourself with a ruler and a mirror, or have your optician do it. I noticed when I didn't have mine right that I'd get a headache and nausea after exiting VR.

OP, if you can't find a solution I got myself a pair of these and they work great. Just click them on before I'm about to start VR and you're good to go.

I'm not really sure what they're using. It honestly might even be bespoke controllers made from parts of the actual aircraft they're training for.

On the consumer side though there's several options depending on your budget. Just make sure what you choose also has a throttle as HOTAS is something I would consider a requirement for DCS.

If you're just starting out or if your budget isn't that great then in my opinion the best bang for your buck is a Thrustmaster T.16000M FCS.

The joystick is arguably the most accurate in its price range and uses HallEffect sensors which won't degrade over time like potentiometers. It's also versatile since it's also great for space games if you decide realistic flight sims aren't for you. The throttle has an analog thumbstick for newtonian physics and there's a matching left handed stick if you want to go for a HOSAS setup instead.

If you want something more substantial and plan on flying the A10C a lot then the Thrustmaster Warthog might be for you. It's more expensive but also made from all metal and is a near exact replica of the actual flight controls.

Just be aware that it doesn't have any twist stick functionality so you'll also need rudder pedals to make the most of this setup.

If you don't care what it looks like and want something in the midrange that will last forever the CH Products Fighterstick and throttle are made by a company that mainly makes joysticks for real world heavy machinery.

They know how to make something that can take a beating and keep on ticking. My only complaint is the design hasn't changed since the 90s when it was first introduced. It still uses pots instead of HallEffect, has a lower resolution, and frankly looks a bit dated to me.

Personally I use the VPC MongoosT-50 base from Virpil. It's more modular and tunable than the other options. You can completely swap out the internal camber depending on if you want a hard center, something softer, or even none at all. You can also change the tension of the springs without having to mod it as well.

The best part though is the different grips. The main grip they offer is modeled after Russian aircraft but if I'm flying something else I can just swap it out. When I want to run CAS in an A10C I bought a separate grip from the Thrustmaster Warthog and it just screws right on to the VPC base.

Update! Both works! =D So 18W seems to work fine!

Edit: Though the fit on this is loose in the battery holder.

But the non-QC3.0 Input one (this) fits snugly.

Not sure about that one in particular but I much prefer the mini dp cable setup as was having connection issues with hdmi. I've used this one works great: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YOQYQWY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_M5EyybE2C5469

Bought these light stands and mini ball head attachment based off a recommendation here and they've been great:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NKWOH7M/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M07M9D4/

If I was buying now, I'd get the new T1600M setup. Haven't used that throttle, but I have the previous version of the t1600m stick and I've been happy with it.

Specifically, look into light stand tripods (instead of regular camera tripods) because they will be cheaper and lighter since they don't need to hold the weight of a heavy camera, but are more than fine for the base stations. This one is 6 feet, but they also have 8-9 feet versions available. If you search r/Vive/ for Neewer, I'm sure you'll find a few of us who went this route. You'll just want to buy a couple of 1/4" ball mount to attach to the ends of these light stands. EDIT: Conveniently at the 'frequently bought together' section.
http://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Aluminum-Tripod-Stands-Softboxes-6-23/dp/B003I6ENXS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1464029196

I bought these wireless, remote controlled switches so I can switch the base stations off and on with the remote (and because the buttons are re-assignable I only need a single on-off-pair). Works perfectly fine for me and a lot faster and reliable than the bluetooth standby mode.

I'm sure that will work fine. I and at least one other person have had good results with this one.

Would this work for you? http://www.amazon.com/Smatree%C2%AE-Ajustable-Gooseneck-Extension-Cameras/dp/B00MWNYGUS?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
You don't want to use any type of adhesive, the lighthouses vibrate, which will make it fall much more easy. Not to mention the amount of torque they would have on the wall since they stick out from the wall. Maybe the extremely heavy duty adhesives will work, but they will definitely take the paint off of your wall.

I've successfully created a 10 ft (~2m??) extension beyond the break out box. Total cost was under $50. I have a 3.2m x 3.5m or so area and I have more than enough space. One thing I'd note is that the HDMI cable extension is HEAVY/THICK. After I put all the extension cables through the mesh casing, it makes the cable paclage very rigid. Still, this works flawlessly for me! Links to amazon below...

HDMI: Monoprice Commercial Series Premium 10ft 24AWG CL2 High Speed HDMI Cable Male to Female Extension - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004C4SECG/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_2a4HxbGN1CTQG

USB: Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Extension Cable in Black 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_Qb4Hxb1AHSCGS

DC Power: Hanvex HDCA12 12 ft 1.3mm DC Power Extension Cable for Foscam, Agasio, Tenvis, Loftek Wireless IP Camera https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FT9VW0O/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_yc4HxbRGNZ5AB

1/2" casing sleeve: 1/2" PET Expandable Braided Sleeving- 10ft - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZATN3WI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_Md4HxbR1Y7KTX

Good point, I don't think he had one at that time.

OP, this game benefits a lot from a HOTAS, I use the T16000M, good quality and not overly expensive.

I have an even worse prescription than you, around -10. I wear my glasses in my Vive and it works just fine.

Just make sure you adjust the lens distance all the way back before you put it on! You can pop out a dial on each side where the strap system connects, and then turn it to bring the lenses closer and further. I didn't realize that when I first put it on, and I think I put a scratch on the inner side of one of the lenses, thankfully where it's completely invisible when wearing the headset...

If you're worried about scratching the lenses with your glasses, I ended up picking up these watchface screen protectors that fit over the lenses quite well and don't disrupt the image quality (it's a 2-pack, so you don't need to buy two packages): http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BUJ354I

I'd recommend getting a few of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerCore-10000mAh-Qualcomm-Compatible/dp/B01JIYWUBA/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=qc+3+anker&qid=1555616123&s=gateway&sr=8-1

Twice the duration and fits comfortably in the clip.

Half the price of the HTC batteries.

I think the lighthouses might vibrate too much for a suction cup. Also, I can think of other things that vibrate and have a suction cup, maybe you don't want your lighthouses to resemble those in any way.

edit: Also, my experience with suction cups on car gadgets is they always vibrate loose eventually.

I use these, with some cheap $8 ball mounts. https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Aluminum-Tripod-Stands-Softboxes-6-23/dp/B003I6ENXS/

They've been fine so far, but I haven't moved them around or set them up multiple times, so I don't know if they'd hold up to travel. Probably not, at that price. I'm positive the cheap ball mounts would never handle being set up and adjusted too many times.

I already posted this in viveforsale. Hopefully this minor cross post is allowed.

The mod is made from a miller headgear (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00826AM7A/ref=cm_sw_su_dp) and a 3d printed part: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1696706
I thought it would flip up like a welder's headgear. It does not and I don't use it. Looking for a good home and will consider a wide rage of trades. I'm in Toronto.
The 3d print is visually a bit crude where it connects to the headset as you can see in the photos. The connection is solid and works perfectly. PM me

I bought these tripods for $22 USD ($31 CAD). They work perfectly. I had bought some adapters so that I could tilt the lighthouses, but they were shipped separately and came a bit later. It turned out that the lighthouses don't need to be tilted, at least not at 6 and a half feet high. They were able to track the floor when screwed straight on top of the tripods without any problem.

If you're on a budget they're a great option. The disadvantage is the floor estate. I'd say they use up about 2 feet of floor space under each tripod.

I switched from my heavy expensive audiophile studio headphones to these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006B486K/ (Koss KSC75 Portable Stereophone Headphones)

They are almost as comfortable as the Rift's integrated headphones, they don't interfere or overlap with the HMD straps at all, and the sound quality is good enough. And you can't beat the price!

edit: they also don't block outside sound much, which I consider a benefit, but YMMV.

Pretty much just this https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1696706 and the miller headgear from cyberweld (amazon has it but its like 10 bucks more when I ordered) then add kross porta pro and a couple guess drills because the hole on that bracket is terrible for me... pretty simple

Awesome.

Any other additional pieces you think I need?

I think I'm going to pick up:

Wrist straps

Silicone condom controller covers

3 in 1 cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MQW49B3/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza

Anything else I might need?

it only comes with HDMI if you want to use displayport from the linkbox you gotta buy a mini dp to dp cable i got this one and it works great http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Rankie%C2%AE-Plated-DisplayPort-Resolution/dp/B00YOQYQWY?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

Had the same issue (though on level 30 >.<). Here's now I fixed it:

I purchased 10' extensions for the HDMI/USB/Audio cables and then (this is key) wrapped them in these.

A costly upgrade but I haven't had a single wire issue since. You still get wrapped up if you're not careful but it's easy enough between rounds to see which way you need to turn during the next round to undo it.

Here's my stream from last night when I got rank #3, you can see my wire setup and technique for monitoring it (skip around).

I bought these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ABB4HC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And, using those, I have my lighthouses clamped to the tops of my book cases in my office. Haven't had a single issue since day one of my Vive arriving a couple months ago. Granted, my book cases are over 7' tall, and are bolted to the wall.

> I paid him around 270-300 usd (but in Swedish currency) a month ago and got it yesterday, so I really cant tell how

I'd recommend ytaopal mate. You just order on taobao with their address and your userid(you create when you register on their site) Then it gets shipped to them. They'll just add a small percentage and either remove the battery or you can send it via dhl with the battery. Battery is only $40 on amazon so make your own mind up on that. https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerCore-20100-Capacity-Technology/dp/B00X5RV14Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501302379&sr=8-1&keywords=anker+20100

Should have updated previously. The clamp in my suggestion was too small for the contractor pole. This one works perfectly.

Pedco UltraClamp Assembly for Cameras, Scopes and Binoculars (1.5-inch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ABB4HC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mhADxb1PPFACP

The best is to get 3 of those.

I use the gooseneck clamps and they work perfectly. I clamped one to a bookcase and the other to a window.

http://i.imgur.com/9TfKcv3.jpg

this is my hotas. One of the best for the price.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071Y7FXWW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I used this to extend my setup. Several others here in reddit have used this as well from what I seen. Worked perfectly for me.

Be sure to protect your controller with this!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06XDLMYMQ?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

Here's the items I purchased to extend the headset 10 feet.

Power cable- https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FT9VW0O/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

HDMI- https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JJ517VI/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB- https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00C7SA21U/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also went with a 1/2" braided sleeve to hold them all together. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ZATN3WI/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1



Edit: Including like where I got my info originally. https://www.reddit.com/r/Vive/comments/4eiqda/10ft_extension_cables_after_the_breakout_box/?sort=confidence

Along that same vein, the KSC75 ought to be pretty good, since theres no headband to deal with.

To those of you unfamiliar with these, they are kinda legendary amongst the audiophile crowd for sounding damn good for 11 bucks.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00DQ2KGNK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I got those, they work great, basically the same thing you're doing.

I bought this one and it works great Mini DP to DP Cable

These work really well and give you a bit more flexibility in positioning the lighthouses. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MWNYGUS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hopefully. We do not know if HTC made some weird proprietary connection to the battery.

It uses a 10,050mAh QuickCharge 3.0 battery

" One interesting side note: to power the wireless experience, the website claims you should only ever use the HTC QC 3.0 Power Bank, a 10,050mAh battery with Quick Charging capabilities. At $80, this is nearly double the price of a similar Anker power bank however, and the company hasn’t specified exactly why it’s so important that users shell out the extra money. "

I have a different USB 3.0 50 ft and a different HDMI 50 ft from amazon and they work fine.
HDMI - http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Active-Speed-Premium-Cable/dp/B0186DNFLI?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00

USB - http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00DMFFL2W?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

Totally fine with this setup. Camera on, etc.

I did the same except with these, slightly better per outlet cost but I use the other 4 around my house. If you just want them for lighthouses might as well only get two.

wow that is cheap. it costs 79 euros in germany.

https://www.amazon.de/Headgear-Helmet-Miller-Electric/dp/B00826AM7A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483811542&sr=8-1&keywords=miller+headgear

power:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FT9VW0O/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_WTxdxbG2WKX4D

Usb:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_YGxdxbPW3R45Z

HDMI:https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Commercial-Premium-Female-Extension/dp/B004C4SECG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1460784534&sr=8-1&keywords=Monoprice+Commercial+Series+Premium+10ft+24AWG+CL2+High+Speed+HDMI+Cable+Male+to+Female+Extension+-+Black

I used black electrical tape to group the cables together after stretching them out and it works great. I accidentally made the usb to tight and occaisonally it pops out during transportation but rarely so if your going to group them together make sure they have enough slack.

If your monitor has display port, use that and use hdmi for vive. If it does not, you'll need either a hdmi to DP adapter or (preferably) a miniDP to DP cable like this one - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YOQYQWY

You'll have to make sure cable is a high speed one

Yeah, so did mine. You can get the new one here though. Really makes a huge difference.

Do these fit right on the Vive? Are they worth buying?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BUJ354I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Kogkzb19YQBRD

Here's all the info:

Head strap replacement

Head strap to HMD adapter Shout out to /u/nw15062 for creating this!

Replacement Face pad: About Face VR (no longer in business)

Headphones: Koss PortaPro Shout out to /u/Mister-S for the original built-in headphones tutorial

Besides that I used a bunch of velcro straps for cable management and plastic velcro to keep the headphones mounted - I'll see if that becomes an issue down the line but it's working fine now.

Okay well I just ordered both!

This: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M07M9D4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And This: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001WB02Z4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I got you bro.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000067S12/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E5M39AW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-4-Port-Extender-Ethernet-GUCE64/dp/B013VP3372

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014I8TC4E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The only caviate I have is with the usb extender. I couldn't use the front camera on the headset when it was routed through the usb to ethernet extender. This may be a limitation of the one I chose. Otherwise, everything works perfectly.

I got the 5 pack AMAZON LINK

1 - Computer
2 - TV

3 - Breakout Box


4 & 5 Lighthouses.

A bonus is when I turn the TV one on the TV comes on automatically.

i wouldn't recommend having it anywhere that might vibrate, also keep in the mind lighthouse does vibrate a bit itself so make sure it is secure so it doesn't fall off, you can actually use something like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MWNYGUS

The below combination works to extend where your vive plugs in by 50 ft with no added latency (i use it). I'm not sure if the 100 ft would work as well.

Cat6 Snagless Ethernet Patch Cable in Black 50 Feet

IOGEAR USB 2.0 4-Port 164' USB Extender Over

Monoprice 50 ft Luxe Series CL3 Active High Speed Premium HDMI Cable

Edit: Total price is just over $100

I have some older Anker power banks and they actually fit pretty well in the Vive clip thing.

The ones I have are not Quick Charge 3.0 though, but I found some similar ones that are:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JIYWUBA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I order a couple and I'm going to test them out.

It are here on amazon for same price with free shipping.

Edit: US amz

Here are the light stands I use when I take the Vive out of the house to demo: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L4YR0BS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Here are the ball heads I use on top of those stands: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M07M9D4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have yet to have an issue with either, they stay in place well and they dont jiggle around.

I ordered my vive during the Christmas sale so it hasn't arrived yet. I'm in the same situation as you, in an apartment where I don't want to drill holes.

But I did a quick google search about our use case and found these.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L4YR0BS

combined with these

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M07M9D4

should work fine. Old reddit posts recommend these.

I'm in an apartment and don't want to put holes in the walls if I can help it.

I'm looking at these but not sure if I need additional hardware to mount the sensors.

edit: I have located a russian solution: https://cdn3.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/3LA_wO_fv_2p4pknYrQvlpLZg8A=/cdn0.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/6121549/Screen_Shot_2016-02-29_at_11.33.18_AM.0.png

These too, it holds really good onto that pole.

O thank you so much, that is a great heads up.

From the links you provided a few people suggest some screen protectors, I might give them a try. They said it doesn't affect the video quality to bad.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BUJ354I/

I already have a pack of 100 of these from Mogura VR Amazon Store that guests use when they are going to play games that you sweat allot in.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/71Xv0Rf7gdL._SL1500_.jpg

You mentioned covers for sweaty games. Can you recommend any?

I'm especially interested to know if there are any disposable types. I've heard of people using some for VR demos but I can never track down somewhere to buy them.

Edit: Found it! These were the ones I was thinking of.

Here's what I've been using to sucessfully extend the distance between my computer and my vive:


     USB over Ethernet (with a 50ft cat6)
     https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013VP3372/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

     50ft Active HDMI
     https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0186DNFLI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Before this I tried using a passive HDMI cable which gave me a red light and blank display on the Vive but everything showed green in SteamVR.

It's an RP-SMA. Also, assuming you're looking to extend I can vouch for this cable working: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071Y7FXWW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you buy another cable be sure it's RP-SMA. RP stands for reverse polarity (inner and outer signal is swapped compared to SMA), so a standard SMA will not work even though they will screw into one another.

Get yourself a set of these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XDLMYMQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I got them and ive already hit the wall 3 times (and one time the ceiling), my wife another 2... (got the Vive less than a week ago)

i dont think the hits would have broken the controllers, as the protector didnt break, but im glad i didnt found out.

I have a bunch of these that I use for my lighthouses, and just about everything else (lights, ambilight, guitar pedals, etc). They work nicely.

Working great. I have the 50ft version of this cable here running through my wall into an outlet. For my usb cable I'm using this with the existing ethernet run through my wall into the same outlet.

It's not cheap to go this route but my setup is perfect. I've got Vive space of about 3.8 x 3.0 behind my couches and TV in my living room. I can't wait for some local multiplayer experiences (like Ruckus Ridge) for when I have people over.

EDIT: I know it'll seem like a "no duh" statement, but that active HDMI cable is uni-directional. The first day I had the Vive I didn't realize I had the cable reversed. Having to go back into the attic for a stupid mistake isn't fun.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L4YR0BS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M07M9D4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is the setup I'm using right now. But damn that quick support rod is a really good idea. I would do that instead of this if possible. I would only consider the tripod "sturdy" if you can extend the legs all the way out, which might be difficult in a small college dorm/apartment

Monoprice Luxe Series Active High Speed HDMI Cable, 4K @ 60Hz, 18Gbps, 24AWG, YUV 4:2:0, CL3, 50ft, Gray https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0186DNFLI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_aUH-BbNSDVFGK

This is what I've seen used at various shows to help with that (and eye herpes).

https://www.amazon.com/Hygiene-VR-headset-Oculus-PlayStation/dp/B01DHKBVQQ

HDMI + USB + Power + Cable Sleeve = Good extension cable.

I use this setup on the HMD end of the Linkbox with no issues.

Anyone have an opinion on these? Looks like they'd work well but I'm concerned about signal interference.

https://smile.amazon.com/MDW-Updated-Version-Protective-Controllers/dp/B06XDLMYMQ/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1494817428&sr=8-7&keywords=vive+controller

I bought one of these to attach a lighthouse to a shelf, it works really well!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ABB4HC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

One of my lighthouses is on a microphone stand on top of a bookcase, and the other is clamped to the top of a closet door frame with a clamp I got from Home Depot:

Bessey 12 inch bar clamp

I used the small version of these to attach to the mic stand and the other clamp:

Pedco UltraClamp

These are ones I bought. I bought them because they were the cheapest ones I could find and the tallest ones I could find. Even at full extension the lighthouse are stable. I had to buy a set of adapters too.

Another option to switch the lighthouses on and off is to get some remote controlled sockets - something like these.

There may be tutorials I don't know. It is quite simple. In my case of 50 feet length. Get those extenders, get a 50 foot HDMI (I got a monoprice one off of amazon), make or buy a 50 foot Ethernet cable.


Hook the headset into the linkbox like normal.

Connect the link box to your PC with the 50 foot HDMI.

Connect the USB that comes with the extender from the linkbox to the extender.


Connect the Ethernet cable from one (near your linkbox) extender to the other (near your PC).


Connect the extender near your PC to your PC using the cable that comes with the extender.


You will need power for the extender by the linkbox, which comes with the extender.


That's about it.

I see, my tripods have swivel heads that I mounted the lighthouses on. The mounts for the wall don't have a way to attach to the tripod, you would need to buy something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Tripod-Station-lighthouses-Camcorder-MDW/dp/B01M07M9D4

I just bought one from amazon used for $41 shipped works fine, ordered saturday, got delivered today, I know there was more in Stock at the time I ordered.



HTC Vive 3-in-1 Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQW49B3/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apap_8hwaEubhcozWo

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BUJ354I/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you or anyone you will be demoing to wears glasses, these work great to protect the lenses. Really reduces the stress about the whole thing. My lenses got a bit scratched from a friend using them and forgetting to click the lenses farther away, and I found these from some other users link.

They do degrade the picture quality a bit, but noticing that fades quite quickly.

You need a VR Cover and do you wear glasses at roughly 4 feet? If so, you need lenses. Then there are googly eyes, rubber condoms for your controllers or hmd, sanitary masks for sharing your Vive, extension cables if you have the room to use them, and an ac controller to turn everything on and off. There's probably more but that will get you started.

I just got these and highly recommend them: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MWNYGUS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I was worried about the gooseneck not being strong enough for the light houses, but it's very sturdy -- almost difficult to move. The clamps are strong and large and the 360º pivot is just icing.

I have these plus two of these which are cheaper if you need two stands. That said, anytime these are bumped, your whole world will shake around (and I suspect bumpings will be commonplace if your dorm is a typical on), so if possible, you should probably use shower-rod-style stands like what /u/Decapper linked, or one of these to set on top of a bookshelf or something, or clamps something along the lines of this.

So I think it has to be a quick charge battery, Qualcomm's QC tech:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JIYWUBA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That battery I know works with the standard vive (not sure on the pro) as it's what I use.