(Part 3) Top products from r/audio

Definitely search craigslist. I'm thinking more and more that what you really want is a good set of PA speakers. Carpet-lined, metal cornered, power-handling, indestructible PA speakers. In my old house (wasn't a frat, but very similar) we had Yamaha PA speakers run through a heavy-duty amplifier. The things were literally indestructible - I DJ'd on them for parties, and one (cheap old) amp blew before the speakers did.

Amazon will ship similar models to you pretty fast I think - maybe not to Canada, not sure - http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=PA+speakers&x=0&y=0 - The Pyle Pro boxes look pretty good, and the 8" model probably isn't very large at all. 4 of those to cover both zones would be killer, I would think, and you could easily hang them from the ceiling if you had good mounting chains (yeah, make sure they don't fall on anyone).

After that, the amp is important. You could go several ways. My first suggestion is check Craigslist for a fairly high-powered Yamaha home theater receiver. I prefer Yamahas in general - they have great amps, very good quality for the price, and they're built to last. Other name brands will do as well, just look for decent features.

After that, you can probably just set them up as A and B speakers on the receiver, and use that to switch between them. I'm guessing you basically want the main room speakers for music, and the TV room for both music and TV, so that should work.

Do you need surround? There are some great stereo receivers that have multi-zone capability built in. Ex: http://www.amazon.com/Sherwood-RX5502-Dual-Zone-Stereo-Receiver/dp/B000RGR50U . Otherwise a lot of 7.1 receivers have the option to run the extra channels as a 2nd stereo zone, that may work as well.

If you find yourself needing more power than a multi-zone receiver can handle, maybe a receiver plus an extra stereo amp for the main room, such as this guy: http://www.amazon.com/AudioSource-AMP-100-2-Channel-Bridgeable-Amplifier/dp/B00026BQJ6 or even this one if you want to go overkill: http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-Pro-PTA1000-1000-Amplifier/dp/B0010K6TXQ . In order to hook up a solution like that, ideally you want a receiver with "pre-outs," as you'll hook the stereo front pre-out to the other amp. This also has the added benefit of being able to better control volume in each location.

Overall, just look for the heaviest duty gear you can find. Obviously you're not worried too much about quality, but you probably want it to sound decent - a lot of the DJ speakers will fulfill that requirement for everyone and will be able to bump it loud forever and not die, which is great. Amps can die if you drive them too loud, PA amps are more indestructible, but receivers will give you more control and will be easier to install and use. I'd basically go with PA speakers, a nice multi-zone receiver, and good mounting kits.

Also - Monoprice for all cables and wires, always: http://www.monoprice.com

The AT2020 is definitely a solid choice for Vox. The 2050 is more versatile with switchable modes, but if you are only recording vox, the 2020 should serve you very well at that price range.

A pre-amp is what takes the very quiet, low-level signal from your microphone and boosts it to an acceptable level. Most interfaces have a preamp, and then convert the signal to digital, transferring it over USB or Firewire. You won't be able to use your mic properly without one. (you can get by with a mixer and a soundcard, aka a preamp and a soundcard Analogue-to-Digital converter, but an interface is absolutely the way to go).

However, you can forgo the interface if you don't see yourself going beyond one mic in the forseeable future, and get the AT2020 USB, which is the same thing, but has all of the necessary preamp/digital conversion you need already in the package. Please do note, though, that an interface will allow you to connect any mic, or a guitar, or a keyboard, even MIDI, which, if you have any plans to expand, even a little, is a must.

As far as interfaces go, I recommend focusrite, such as this

What you are describing is commonly known as acoustic treatment. Its partially to reduce reverb, but even more so to "balance" the sound of your room out. Carpeting will help particularly in small rooms with low ceilings. If you are only doing vocals and other smaller projects, something like this will help with that. Either way, you will likely want a pop filter, which helps remove plosives (p,b,s,t).

You should check /r/audioengineering to get the best advice!

That might work out better than what you have, but if you really want quality audio, you need to invest a little more into it. Getting a proper condensor mic like the Audio Technical AT2020 here would be a great place to start. You would then probably need an audio interface to connect it to like this or a mixer like this. Do your research and a lot of it. There are a lot of good options out there to improve your audio quality, but all options involve investing a descent amount of money as hard as that is to hear. Research, find what you really want no matter the price, and save, save, save until you have it.

Something like the Blue Yeti may suit. It's a multi-pattern USB microphone. If your mixer is worth its salt, you should be able to output from your computer via an audio interface or simply use a line out to a separate channel.

I personally use the Audio Technica AT-2020 XLR version (this also has a USB version) for recording a bit of vocal work, including rap and some spoken word stuff. It works great on voice and acoustic guitars. However that doesn't solve the lack of phantom power. If it picks up too much ambience (which it definitely can) ease off on the gain a bit and speak louder.

A dynamic mic like this Nady may work as well, however this type can be quite sensitive and will pick up ambient noise.

I don't know if your budget stretches this high ($430), but the Electro Voice RE20 is in my opinion the gold standard for spoken word and radio type stuff that isn't a condenser microphone. It's dynamic, so it doesn't require phantom power, it has a cardioid pattern which will help filter out ambient noise and it just sounds fantastic to my ears. Even though it is quite pricey, it will stand the test of time and providing you take care of it, it will hold its value.

TL;DR: No phantom power requirement, not too sensitive, inexpensive. Pick two.

(Just realised the Shure SM58 might also fit the bill, but it won't give you that sexy radio voice. However, you can abuse the hell out of those things and they will still work and ask for more.)

Hope I've been helpful.

>My dad's 70th birthday is coming up and he just got a new TV, a Samsung 55" Class Q7CN QLED Curved Smart 4K UHD TV (2018). The problem is that he's partly deaf and needs headphones to hear the TV. We need to get both speakers and Bluetooth headphones to work with the new TV. I'm just looking to get 2 speakers (one for each side of the room) and Bluetooth headphones (for my dad). I live in the US. My budget for the headphones is up to $200 and the same for the speakers but if I can get them cheaper, that's even better. He doesn't need the best audio quality, he just needs to be able to hear the TV. Thank you for any help.

Is the reason for both headphone and speakers at the same time because both your dad and mom are watching the TV?

Bluetooth does not usually work with more than 1 headphone or speaker at a time.

As what others have said, FiiO D3 (D03K) Digital to Analog Audio Converter will work with the optical out port from the TV to analog RCA Sennheiser RS 120. You may or may not be able to have the optical out and HDMI or TV speakers on both at the same time. Or use an optical splitter to split the signal for headphones and a speaker system.

Another option is an HDMI extractor. You have the wrong analog to HDMI converter and not the correct HDMI to analog converter. The extractor may also allow you to have both headphones and a speaker system at the same time.

For good Bluetooth headphones under $50, Monoprice.

To add speakers to a TV, use an AV receiver with 2 or more passive speakers or a pair of passive bookshelf speakers with an optical input.

One option to get sound from the headphones and external speakers at the same time is to use the optical out from the TV with a used AV receiver with pre-outs. It should allow you to use 2, 3 or 5, sometimes 7 wired speakers and also use the headphones at the same time.

Are you looking for wireless speakers? Denon has HEOS or Yamaha has Muiscast wireless systems.

Wireless is not needed for 2 speakers anyway since the speakers get placed on either side of the TV as far apart from each other as they are from the listener, not anywhere around the room. See Speaker Placement for Stereo Music Listening.

Sound from the TV speakers and external speakers at the same time is duplicative and does not have any advantage. The left and right external speakers should be on either side of the TV as far apart from each other as they are from the listener. Also having the TV speakers on does not add to the volume or quality of the sound. Adding a center channel speaker will allow you to boost its level for better dialog and the center channel gets placed directly under the TV where the TV speakers point to anyway. If you want 5 speakers all around the room, that is surround sound or you can play the same sound from all 5 speakers in mono mode.

See Speaker Placement for Home Theater • How to Set Up a Basic Home Theater System - Lifewire • How to Set Up Your Home Theater Receiver • r/HTBuyingGuides FAQ • r/hometheater.

The Mackies are Active Speakers, they have their own amps, that makes it unlikely, though not impossible, that you could use them with an AVR. These are Multimedia/PC speakers. And whether you can use them depends on the AVR you get. If it is one of the better ones that has Pre-Amp outputs, you could use the Mackie with that, but you are wasting the amps since you would be using the Amp in the Mackie.

I would suggest you start with a Stereo System, until such time as you can buy a complete Home Cinema Surround system. Then when you have an AVR and 5.1 Surround Speakers, move the Stereo to your computer, assuming you have room.

But I think you might be trying to do too much with too little. The Mackie would make good computer speakers, but confine them to that purpose. Don't try to cobble them into a Home Theater system, because it will not work well. It might work, just not well.

Depending on the outputs of the TV, you might need to spend an additional $25 for a small Optical/Coaxial DAC to translate the Digital Audio Out of the TV to a signal that the Stereo Amp can use.

https://www.amazon.com/D03K-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B009346RSS

Depending on money, and circumstances, don't cheap out on a Home Cinema system. Generally speaking you want an AVR of at least $500. And a full 5.1 set of speakers would tend to run in the $1000 to $1500 range. So, you are looking at a $1500 to $2000 expenditure here. Though it can be done for less, and again I don't know the exact circumstances, but you can have a decent stereo with speakers, for about $280 (with DAC) up to about $360. If you want to add a Subwoofer at a later date, then that is going to run between about $125 and about $500 depending on how far you want to take it.

I suggest you focus on the one thing that you want do to now - Computer speakers OR Stereo OR AVR - and not try to make one system do all those things.

If you have a Laptop Computer rather than a Desktop Computer, and that Laptop has Bluetooth capability, then the Yamaha RS202 and the Cambridge Speaker could serve both your TV/Movie watching and your computer speaker (via Bluetooth).

But again, I think you need to focus on THE ONE THING you want to do now, and leave the rest for later.

And they have good bass for a 5" Computer Speaker. The Stereo Receiver and both the Cambridge SX50 and the Cambridge SX60 have deeper bass than the Mackie.

If you look at the link I provided, the Cambridge SX50 (5.25") are rated at 50Hz - 22 kHz which is typical of a 5.25" speaker. The Cambridge SX60 are 6.5" speaker and rated at 41 - 22kHz which again is typical of a 6.5" speaker.

The Mackie's while certainly good, are what they are, you can check the specs on them at the links I provided.

The SWAN speakers, if you follow the Amazon Link provide, and scroll way down on the page, response from 38hz up to 20hz, with the Sub covering 38hz to 120hz, and the Front speaker covering 120hz up to 20khz.

As I said, 38hz is not Subwoofer territory, that's will in the range of a standard woofer. But it is pretty deep as Stereo Speakers go.

I'm not sure about listening to both through the TV itself, but you can output your TV's audio as well as your phone's audio through an audio mixer or an A/V receiver and into a speaker system. A mixer like this or a reciever/amplifier like this would work just fine.

There are benefits for using both. A/V receivers are optimized for home theatre systems (processing both audio and video signals from separate devices, hence "A/V") and can output audio to a surround sound system, whereas mixers are usually used to process audio only (used in music studios/concert venues/home recording.)

For the simple purpose of playing two audio sources at the same time I'd go with a cheap mixer, but if you are looking to upgrade your home theatre system in the future, then maybe consider investing in a receiver. You'll need a set of speakers for either one, and probably adapter cables if using a mixer.

No you do not need a pro amp. These speakers are extremely efficient. You could get away with a pretty cheap amp if you want. Nicer ones I might suggest are:

Behringer A500(a metric shitload of power)

Dayton APA150

Or the most reasonable: Audiosource Amp 100

Any of these amplifiers will do. And any of them can drive those speakers to impressive and damaging levels of sound.

Please be careful of your hearing and beyond that, be mindful of your neighbors. Then enjoy yourself, those speakers will be very capable of hosting parties.

If all you're using these for is gaming, I'd say comfort is a pretty huge factor and while I've never used the HyperX Cloud 2s, I can say that the ATH-M40x are ridiculously uncomfortable. They clamp hard, the pads aren't very soft and the top headband is funky.

Here's a few cans I have tried that I can recommend:

Status Audio CB-1 $79 - http://thestatusaudio.com/products/cb1

Philips SHP 9500 $50-70 - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826138190

Either of these two can use the V-Moda Boom pro attachment to become a nice headset. $30 - https://www.amazon.com/V-MODA-BoomPro-Gaming-Headset-Headphone/dp/B00BJ17WKK

These NVX headphones don't have the 3.5mm single input for the boompro, but they're really goddamn comfortable, sound pretty good and come with 2 different sets of pads that are both really nice. You could just pick up a Sony clip-on mic to use with these.

NVX XPT 100 $80 - https://www.amazon.com/Perfect10-Over-Ear-Headphones-ComfortMax®-XPT100/dp/B0093PVTPS/

A couple things:

• What do you mean by Streaming PC? Is it for streaming youtube videos into your house, or is it for streaming gaming videos out of your house? Are you using it for both?
  
  
• Does the HDMI connection between the the two PCs carry audio as well as video?
  
  
• What's an AT2020? It's in your diagram, but not listed here.
  
  
• Out to MIC does not make sense. A microphone is an input. Do you mean out to headphones (or a gaming headset with integrated headphones and microphone)?
  
  
• (Related to the question above) Do you have speakers or a headset? Where are they plugged in?
  
  
• What model of audio mixer are you using? They differ hugely between models. Chances are that the USB connection on yours is bidirection, so audio from your gaming computer can come out of the mixer, but audio that's in the mixer can also go into the computer.
  
  
• Final question: How are the people in your discord party hearing the audio when you play a youtube video? Are they hearing it through your microphone?
  
  [Edit] After a quick googling, this is your mic, right? AT2020
  
  And you're using a Yamaha MG10XU mixer, right? This is the manual for it (PDF) Assuming you have your headphones plugged into the mixer where you labeled MIC, and that you're using the mixer as your microphone's input to your gaming computer, the problem that you're running into is that the computer and your headphones will always get the same audio.
  
  That Yamaha has kind of a "dumb" USB audio interface built into it: It only has one stereo channel output that goes to the computer. That same stereo channel is the one that's referred to as "ST" on the board, and in the manual, and is controlled by the knob marked STEREO at the bottom right of the board. Effectively, there are a bunch of ways to get audio out of that mixer (the couple pairs of outputs on the top that you can connect to an amplifier, the headphone jack, and the USB interface), but there's only one thing you can get with them: the ST channel. Every input that you connect to the board: the microphone, the streaming computer, etc, will get combined into that one stereo channel. The gaming computer is the notable exception. The board must have some kind of logic to prevent summing the USB input back into the USB output.
  
  Some higher-end (and more expensive) mixers will have USB audio interfaces with many channels. Some even will allow you to pick off every single input that the mixer has, and output it individually to the computer. Unfortunately, since this board does not do that, you either need to return it and get something that works better for you, use it a bit differently, or get another piece of equipment that will work alongside the board.
  
  If you keep the board, you need to decide whether you want to use it to connect the microphone to your gaming computer, or whether you want to use it to mix together the outputs from your two computers into your headphones. It cannot do both without combining all of the audio together like it's doing now.

Fellow Panasonic plasma owner here.


You're gonna need a DAC (digital-to-analog converter) to change the digital signal from the TV (over the Toslink cable) into an analog audio signal over red and white RCA cables. The way I see it you have 2 options.




Powered Speaker Option - $428

• Fiio D3 DAC - $28
  
  Digital conversion is a pretty mature technology. You don't need to spend any more than this on a DAC.
  
  
  
• Audioengine A5+ $400
  
  
  If you don't want a receiver, these are the #1 most recommended and well-reviewed powered speaker pair around.
  
  
  Passive Speaker Option - $268
  
  
  
• Fiio D3 DAC - $28
  
  
  See above.
  
  
  
• Yamaha stereo receiver - $150
  
  
  Not a home theater receiver just two nice big amplifiers and some basic switching capability. You can control the volume with your cable box remote or buy a cheap Harmony universal remote they're really fantastic.
  
  
  
• Pioneer bookshelf speakers - $90
  
  
  One of the most highly recommended bookshelf speaker pairs to come around in a long time.

It hasn't steered me wrong yet, it also has the bass knob too you were talking about. There's an aux jack in the right speaker and also the sub. It has pretty good clarity with no audible hissing or anything. I'd recommend it! It's not big or clunky, but has some pretty great quality for the size.

For a receiver, you could look at the Yamaha R-S202:

https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-R-S202BL-Stereo-Receiver/dp/B01EMQI2CU?th=1

Bluetooth built-in. Plenty of RCA inputs for other things. Can drive four speakers (zone A and zone B simultaneously). Brand new for $130.

Yamaha has a decent reputation for building good receivers. It's a simple stereo receiver without a lot of bells and whistles. Interface is pretty simple also. I just bought one of these to drive 4 speakers (Yamaha NS-6490) in a small/medium sized gym for a friend. Affordable, easy to use, does what's needed and nothing more. There are other options (of course), but this was a good solution to what I was looking for. Might work for you also.

Could have gone with a small integrated Chinese DAC+amp (e.g., SMSL AD18), but I was worried about sufficient output power and the overall robustness of the system. It will be used by various people, some of whom are not particularly tech savvy (you should have seen they way they tried to connect up the speaker wire to the receiver when I accidentally left them unconnected after some maintenance, oy!). So I wanted all of the robustness and niceties (e.g., solid big remote, instruction manual, tech support, warranty I can trust, etc.) of buying a "real" receiver from an established company.

I'm assuming you only need stereo and aren't intending to setup some kind of outdoor home theater with a 5.1/7.1 speaker setup.

Yeah, I'm sure that would work great, but it looks a bit overkill for my current setup. Anything that's a 5.1 receiver is probably gonna be pricey and I'll want nice speakers to go with them too.

Think I'm just gonna try one of the cheapo hdmi extractors u can nab off amazon for like $25 https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Extractor-Converter-JTDAT5CH/dp/B00BIQER0E/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=audio+extractor&qid=1564162667&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Standard Sound Guy Headphones from Sony. They are designed to be very accurate, they come very close to reproducing the sound signal the way it is. Most other headphones color the sound in some way which is fine if it happens to suit your taste but for me, I want the sound as close to way it was recorded and mixed as possible.

There are more expensive headphones that are more accurate, but they are comfy and durable and nearly every working sound engineer has a pair or three. (I own two) so they are the best set that fit your budget.

EDIT:

I actually at work right now (I'm a video recording tech so I need to listen to the video recorder's audio input often) and me as well as three other guys on the crew today all have a pair of those Sony's.

The difference from buying a 100 dollar "gaming" headset to a 100 dollar pair of headphones is huge. Gaming headphones are simply put a marketing scam, much like beats by Dre or Bose. All of which you pay way more for what you get.

here is your headphones and here is your mic

The setup I suggested will beat any of those gaming headsets in that price range. Good luck hope you find what you're looking for. If you want any more headphone suggestions ask away. Those Sennheisers get good reviews, but there's other headphones that are equally as good in that price range. Check out the KRK KNS6400 as well. Also the 280 pros can be driven without an amp fine, although someday you might wanna upgrade.

LOL retail price of $279 my ass. These things went for $80.

They're overall a pretty decent and cheap entry-level 5.1 system. It uses RCAs to connect the speakers to the amp, so you'd need RCA extenders if you need to space them out more. RCA extenders can lead to signal noise and quality loss, but it shouldn't be noticeable as long as you're not extending like 25 feet.

In terms of SQ, I personally think they sound muddy. The trebles/highs aren't very clear, especially when the subwoofer is turned up. It's not a sharp, crisp bass sound. I personally own the Z-5500 (the top end model in this speaker series) and obviously they are better, but you can distinctly hear the difference in the muddyness. It makes the X-530s sound like listening to the radio versus an MP3. Again, this is mostly when the lows overpowers the highs. So if you keep the subwoofer around halfway, it should sound fine.

If you need something cheap and simple, this will do the job. If you're looking for something with better SQ, spend more money. These 2.1 Logitech speakers are THX-certified and offer 200W. Booming bass, crisp highs/mids. $106 shipped on Amazon.

If you want to hear two sources at the same time, you want a mixer (which is the opposite of a splitter).

A mixer can be digital or analog, but basically they aren't really consumer-oriented devices, and the digital ones tend to be pretty expensive. So practically speaking, analog is the way to go. (That means you would not use your Kenwood receiver's optical input, but one of its analog RCA inputs.)

For an example of a mixer, you could get a cheap Behringer 502 mixer for $40.

If the XBox doesn't have a 3.5mm output, then you will need a digital-to-analog converter for it. There are tons available, but here is a cheap one for $20. With this converter, your two sources (XBox and Echo Dot) will both be available as analog outputs.

From there, to hook it up, you would need:

• Two 3.5mm to dual 1/4" stereo breakout cables like this one from Hosa for $5 each. One of them would plug into LINE IN 2/3 on the Behringer mixer and the other would plug into LINE IN 4/5.
  
• One dual 1/4" to dual RCA stereo cable like this one from Hosa for $6. This would go from the Behringer mixer's MAIN OUT to one of the RCA inputs on your Kenwood receiver.
  
  To operate it, you'd:
  
  
• Use the 2/3 and 4/5 LEVEL knobs on the mixer to adjust the levels of each sound source. Set the BAL knobs to the center position.
  
• Turn the 1 LEVEL knob down to zero since you don't have anything plugged in there.
  
• Control the overall volume with the MAIN MIX knob. Or set that to something reasonable and use your receiver to control the volume.
  
  This is all kind of awkward, but unfortunately I don't know of a mixer that has a more consumer-oriented design and uses 3.5mm or RCA connectors.
  
  TLDR: Anything that isn't analog (XBox), convert it to analog with a digital-to-analog converter. Use mixer to combine signals. Run mixer's output to an input on the receiver.
  
  Edit: Thanks for the gold. OP delivers. Also one more thing I forgot to mention: if the Xbox is set to send a surround sound signal to the optical out, that digital to analog convertor won't be able to handle it. You can either get a different converter that can also decode surround sound, or you can change the Xbox audio settings to send a simpler format, which is probably called something like "Linear PCM".

I love you and I'm embarrassed that never came up in my searches. That is EXACTLY what I want, even though it's expensive. I found one accepting 3.5mm here by the same company.

Edit: And here's an even more barebones one for only $3. Thank you so much for guiding me with the right keywords!! I know to search for "Audio A/B switch" thanks to you.

I don't know your budget but if you can I'd recommend something like the audiosource amp-100. Those small t-amp will introduce a lot of static into your system. They aren't terrible, I started off with an smsl sa50 as my first amp but it doesn't provide clean enough power for my liking. It might be too big for your setup though.

Buy This:

http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Microphones-Icicle-Converter-Preamp/dp/B001EW5YQS

Blue Icicle XLR-USB with phantom power, under $50. The AT2020 actually comes in USB in case you can exchange it, but if not, you'll like the icicle. The 2020 is a great mic for the price and will be good for more than just chatting.

This is much much better, better sound, better mic.

Philips Phidelio X2

V-Moda Boom Pro

​

Reviews:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=euoVAmgp0Lw

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_y2ZZxcBZ88

All of these will work fine for what you need them for. The Rode one would probably sound the best for talking/VoiceOver but its slightly more expensive.

USB Mics:

AT2020
Blue Yeti
Rode Podcaster

Pop Filter:
Filter 1
Filter 2

Mic Stand:
Mic Stand 1
Mic Stand 2 more expensive but a good stand.

I haven't personally heard them, but you can search for video reviews of the AT2020 USB and Blue Snowball.

Both have generally good reviews, and the Blue Snowball is relatively cheap. Hell, you can get it, a pair of headphones, a stand and a pop filter for $90. Not that the headphones are going to be any good, but it's somewhere to start.

Anyways, both mics have USB so they can be plugged directly into your laptop. Good luck

You could also get a Blue Icicle, but this would require to spend a little bit more cash. You basically plug the mic XLR into the icicle then plug the usb from the icicle to your PC. Pretty easy to set up and use.


http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Microphones-Icicle-Converter-Preamp/dp/B001EW5YQS

JBL LSR305 here

I have heard nothing but good things about them. Although I don't know active monitors as well as passive speakers, these are constantly recommended and I trust JBL equipment after using them for countless theater shows.

The mic is decent for its price range. The headphones are good but they're absolutely overkill if all you're doing is editing voiceover work; i'd spend less there and more on the microphone. I also don't like USB microphones. Their drivers are often sub-par, and they limit future expandability. ATH-M50x or Sony MDR-7506 with an AT2020 (this comes with its own iso enclosure - best way to not pick up noise on a budget) and a Scarlett Solo would be my recommendation. You will also want a pop filter.

This is the mic you want if you just want a usb mic. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001AS6OYC?cache=c74c5740a959b29bd2c33434595dfb45&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1415069883&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1

OR If you want more flexibility for upgrades in the future, get this mic http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0006H92QK?cache=c74c5740a959b29bd2c33434595dfb45&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&qid=1415069883&sr=8-4#ref=mp_s_a_1_4

And an interface like this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BQ6KSN6?cache=c74c5740a959b29bd2c33434595dfb45&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&qid=1415069982&sr=8-4#ref=mp_s_a_1_4

Remember that used should be fine.

If your computer has a Line In jack (typically a blue 3.5mm plug, not to be confused with the red or pink mic input) you could try running a 3.5mm Male to Male cable from your console into that, then have your headset plugged into the Line Out jack (typically a green 3.5mm plug) and that ought to give you a combination of your console audio and computer audio.

Edit: Another way you could accomplish this with 3.5mm plugs is to buy a stereo mixer such as the Maker Heart Just Mixer.

Yes sub in 2.1 it will work as analog signal is brought in by stereo jack. Do not expect steelar quality and earth shattering kaboom as this is really a tiny sub, though.

To connect directly TV to Creative speakers you will need RCA to stereo cable (few dollars at most), something like that:

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-105597-3-Feet-Premium-Stereo/dp/B0094A1F3S/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468933385&sr=8-2&keywords=rca+to+stereo

Get a tape player with an A/C adapter. Something like this.

Get a 12v inverter. Something like this.

Using the headphone jack on the tape player, they can connect a 3.5mm AUX cable in their car (assuming they have an AUX input?) and a 3.5mm RCA cable to connect to the home stereo.

*Also, if I may make a suggestion, using the car inverter > a/c adapter > AUX input in the car will undoubtedly create a bit of engine noise through your speakers. Using one of these will eliminate most of that noice.

I have no idea about the bm-600. However I myself use the AT2020 and love it. Fantastic audio quality, and not all that expensive all things considered. There is also an AT2020 with an XLR cable if that's what you want for $30 cheaper.

Yeah, they're pretty cool, they started out being used by keyboard players.

I just looked at it more in depth, looks like it only has 2 dedicated stereo channels - 5/6 & 7/8, but bluetooth is possibly mono? Weird setup. Also there's no explaination how the USB track comes up and is controlled... usually on a pro mixer something like that would be on an assignable stereo monitor mix.

So this probably wouldn't work for you. I meant to give you this 10 channel link -

This one has all stereo inputs, or a mixture of mono mic (dynamic only) and line inputs - (no bluetooth). The only weird thing here is it uses adapter wires to connect standard sized plugs, (because they keep it small).

• https://www.amazon.com/Maker-Hart-LOOP-MIXER-Portable/dp/B01M68UK38/
  
  
  Here's a Behringer mixer that packs in 10 channels - 4 dedicated stereo inputs, 2 mono/line (either 2 mics, or line, or one extra stereo input panned hard L/R) plus a stereo tape-input for two more line inputs.
  
  It even runs on batteries if you needed a portable.
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-1002B-10-Input-Optional-Operation/dp/B0027B41P0/

does 99$ count under 100$? LOL
those are way better the z623
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Z623-Speaker-System-Black/dp/B003VAHYTG/ref=pd_sim_147_6?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B003VAHYTG&pd_rd_r=PJQ0XFASJZ3D43TAM498&pd_rd_w=3Qoqq&pd_rd_wg=ks7TB&psc=1&refRID=PJQ0XFASJZ3D43TAM498

These Altec Lansing sound pretty good and should start to rattle windows. The Logitech z623 have some power behind them. Should get pretty loud.

Of course when you really want to make the house shake...you'll need an amp and some Speakers. I'm thinking you might not even need a sub with these bad boys.

You could also just get a the amp or stereo reciever, set of speakers, and a big sub. This 15" sub from dayton should begin to shake some windows.

http://www.amazon.com/Rapco-Horizon-LTIBLOX-Laptop-Interface/dp/B003MLFCMA?tag=s601000020-20

I've got one, and use it all the time. This is a mono-sum solution though.


Your amplifier is designed to receive two channels of balanced audio. Because of this, you'd only need the balanced transmitter, but you'd want to do it at line level. Reducing the audio level to a mic-level signal would raise the noise floor, as the amp would have to be turned up to compensate.

I like your Amazon link below.

This Zalman mic which is always recommended for this purpose is only $9.

You won't be able to hear the benefit of an external sound interface with a pair of $100 headphones. The Sennheiser HD 280 have the best sound isolation at that price.

Looks like you need a mixer, not just a splitter. Something like this. If you were just splitting one source to two headphones, ok. But when you combine two output devices to one input you need a mixer.

I've heard this sescom is pretty good for such a task.

https://www.amazon.com/Sescom-SES-IPOD-AB-Stereo-MP3-Player/dp/B005TE7GP4/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1479140249&sr=8-8&keywords=sescom

If you can stretch your budget to $280, these would the best option. The JBL's are breathtaking powered monitors for the price: http://www.amazon.com/JBL-Professional-LSR305-Studio-Monitor/dp/B00DUKP37C

A very good powered speaker option for $180: http://www.amazon.com/Audioengine-Premium-Powered-Desktop-Speaker/dp/B000VKEFMS

If you're serious about your budget, you could also do passive speakers:
Lepai 2020 amp ($20): http://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-2020A-Tripath-Class-T-Amplifier/dp/B0049P6OTI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1413670794&sr=8-1&keywords=lepai+2020

Teac LS-H265 ($90 a pair): http://www.amazon.com/Teac-LS-H265-2-Way-Speaker-System/dp/B004R929AY/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1413670989&sr=1-1&keywords=teac+ls-h265

Those Teacs have pretty punchy bass for its size, but if you find yourself lacking some low end ($90): http://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-SUB-800-Powered-Subwoofer/dp/B0063NU30K/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1413671025&sr=1-1&keywords=dayton+sub+800

The final system is $200 total, or $110 without the subwoofer.

Yes, your adapter will work for the computer audio.

And your piano in stereo will be nice! Just need the correct cable. Assuming the piano has Left and Right outputs on TS cables, this one will do ya:

Hosa CPR-202 Dual 1/4" TS to Dual RCA Stereo Interconnect Cable, 2 Meters https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O17/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_IZaQCbMH85MAD

it's like what's under Drumph's golf pants:

Depends

If the mic input on the wall ( XLR right?) is set up for mic level you need a device like an iFace device or this interface ( much cheaper than the Iface) to step down your line level source to mic level.

If the system is setup for it, it may accept a line level input with the input gain set at a lower level for that wall plate input, but that still leaves the challenge of taking your TRS stereo unbalanced source, and summing the two chanels to balanced mono (XLR)

I'd take a look at these. Edifier is owned and operated by parent company STAX Edifier owns STAX, which makes electrostatic speakers (and also some of the best sounding headphones ever made.) This set is $99 a pop, and until I decided to spring for some BX8's I found on craigslist, these were recently a real contender for a purchase of my own.

Yeah I looking at getting nice speakers for christmas too, here is what I am trying to decide from:
-https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Watts-Multimedia-Speakers-980-001203/dp/B0151K2AB0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1481484823&sr=8-3&keywords=logitech+z533

-http://www.bestbuy.com/site/logitech-z533-multimedia-speakers-3-piece-black/4415403.p?id=1219744554375&skuId=4415403&ref=199&loc=9e1vMmumXG0&acampID=1&siteID=9e1vMmumXG0-DcjM676VcRbzmB1yp8T4iA

-https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016P9HJIA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_TzntybDQVJT5B What do you guys think so far?

What you need is a switch in this circumstance to switch between the PC and the TV, not a splitter. By trying to use this splitter as a combiner, your HDTV audio is being routed to the speakers as well as to the audio OUTPUT of the PC. And vice versa, the PC audio is being routed to the OUTPUT of the HDTV. These outputs are not designed to have audio running into them. Some equipment will run ok using this setup, but you have found a combo that does not seem to work.

Something like the following is what you need:

http://www.amazon.com/Sescom-SES-IPOD-AB-Stereo-MP3-Player/dp/B005TE7GP4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1410639705&sr=8-2&keywords=audio+switch+3.5mm

http://www.amazon.com/Zalman-Zm-Mic1-Sensitivity-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B00029MTMQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1342639959&sr=8-1&keywords=zalman+zm-mic1

Best clip-on mic money can buy and it's only $8 dollars. (can be found on other sites for even cheaper)

Actually best way is to get one of these plus an XLR cable. Plug into the 'mic' input.

Rapco Horizon LTIBLOX Laptop Interface Device https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MLFCMA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_rpVyCbZX2EM46

This adapter will properly combine the left and right channels into mono for your speaker, it also has a volume adjustment on it.

You generally can't just adapt the XLR from a microphone to 1/8" or 3.5 mm (I'm assuming that's what you mean by "audio jack"). The mic requires a preamp designed to work with it and maybe phantom power. You'll want a USB interface. You can find some relatively inexpensive ones for just one microphone -- they're not super high quality, but unless you're really spending a lot of effort on making your recording setup, it'll be just fine. The Blue Icicle is one, though you can find them cheaper, too. Or you can get fancier, like with a Focusrite Scarlett 2i2.

Try the Logitech Z623. They sound quite very good and the bass certainly delivers. You can set the bass from relatively balanced to wall shaking. They really shine when watching movies.

Well empirically if you have it working with the unbalanced cable it should work with a balanced cable. Also just to clarify when I say mixer I don't mean something large it could be a single input mixer even something like a Blue icicle which would solve the need for a preamp and it would cut down the total amount of cables that you would need to deal with.
Also regardless of how loud your mic is for streaming it doesnt have to be the same volume coming out of your speakers so it should be easy to avoid feed back.

Check out modmic

Edit- woops did not finish reading, a desktop mic has worked well for me, like a usb mic.



Edit 2 amazon ships to holland right?

I couldn't find the specs on those speakers easily, so it's hard to say. What is their sensitivity rating?

Anyway, as a place to start, some I see recommended a lot are the Audioscource amp 100 and one of these Dayton amps.

Personally, I'd go the few extra dollars and get this Emotiva Mini-X a100 now on sale for $169. Emotiva is becoming the go-to brand for budget audiophiles.

Just picked up this one! Thanks!

Buy one of these and an XLR cable of desired length. Then plug that creation into the middle port. Done

You don't really need two 3.5mm inputs, if one of the inputs is RCA you can use a 3.5mm->RCA cable or even adapter to plug your monitor into it and leave the other input free: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0094A1F3S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_NOmdAb91XY2DZ

Plus your future record player may have native RCA output, or some other format, so you may not need 2x 3.5mm anyway.

I'd take a look at these. Don't know how what the continuous wattage is on the Energy speakers, I'm guessing 175w is a peak figure.
http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PT530A-Channel-Amplifier-Receiver/dp/B005GMRVUE/ref=sr_1_22?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1341614284&sr=1-22
http://www.amazon.com/AudioSource-AMP-100-Stereo-Power-Amplifier/dp/B00026BQJ6/ref=sr_1_2?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1341614284&sr=1-2
http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PTAU45-Stereo-Amplifier-Inputs/dp/B003OELGGG/ref=sr_1_9?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1341614284&sr=1-9
http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PCA4-2x120-Stereo-Amplifier/dp/B0036VO6G4/ref=sr_1_14?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1341614284&sr=1-14

I'd move away from the type of thing you've looked at already and go for either:

• Powered monitors (these are like 'old' computer speakers inasmuch as you just plug them in to your PC and the mains and they work, as the amplifier is built in). I suggest JBL LSR305 (note that you need to buy two as they're priced individually).
  
• A small amp such as either an SMSL SA-50 or SMSL A2 and some bookshelf speakers like the Wharfedale 9/10 (plenty of choice here depending on what you want to pay, but if you keep to one of these you will have enough money left over to also buy a subwoofer for extra bass).
  
  If you want to add bluetooth just buy a little bluetooth receiver to go with the above.

I would suggest you get the [Audio Technica AT2020] (https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0006H92QK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_yy6jDbTNXZB49) ~100€ on Amazon (get the XLR version)
And as an interface get the Behringer UM2 U-Phoria 2x2 USB 2.0 Audio Interface ~30€ on Amazon. So you can upgrade the interface or microphone later or even add a mixer when you want. For the rest of the money you can get a microphone stand.

Would something like this work?

http://www.amazon.com/Shure-X2U-XLR-to-USB-Signal-Adapter/dp/B001PPXFAG
or this
http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Microphones-Icicle-Converter-Preamp/dp/B001EW5YQS

The roku express is HDMI out. I have the same model. You'll need an HDMI extractor like this one. Assuming your projector has HDMI in.

https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Premium-Extractor-Converter/dp/B00BIQER0E/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1517448819&sr=1-3&keywords=hdmi+audio+extractor&refinements=p_72%3A1248879011

Spend an extra fifty bucks and get this one instead; your ears will thank you:



https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-Audio-R-S202BL-Stereo-Receiver/dp/B01EMQI2CU/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=yamaha&qid=1567009446&s=electronics&sr=1-1

This FiiO DAC is well regarded.

As is this Lepai TA2020 Amplifier

take a look at the sony mdr7506, they are ugly, but god damn are they good

or if you want a sound stage (surround sound) for games look at the NVX xpt100

Well it's one cable that gets split into two (mic and headset). See this mic: https://www.amazon.ca/V-MODA-BoomPro-Gaming-Headset-Headphone/dp/B00BJ17WKK

Also see my edit above, is that what I need?

https://www.amazon.com/LOOP-MIXER-Portable-Channels-Stereo/dp/B01M68UK38

Use one of these and you are problem free.

Just saw this: https://www.amazon.ca/Maker-Portable-Audio-Mixer-Adapter/dp/B01M68UK38/ref=pd_rhf_dp_s_cr_simh_0_6/137-5386091-4038218?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01M68UK38&pd_rd_r=0af6f2e6-e890-4649-b058-fca55d8139d6&pd_rd_w=IG1r5&pd_rd_wg=ZAIu1&pf_rd_p=dc0745e6-bccc-4a65-9613-73d8814429b2&pf_rd_r=38C8KDBRTNRM6N4N91Q4&psc=1&refRID=38C8KDBRTNRM6N4N91Q4

No sure how the loop function works but it seems like I'd be able to input everything into one mixer, then loop it over to the second (with no other inputs) to be able to do 2 mixes. not sure if im understanding loopback right though

The mic is plugged into the Mic 1 spot on the mixer with the XLR cable. I have mixer connected to the audio interface with these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O17/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_xr03BbEV9PYV5
And then the interface plugs into the pc via USB

This is the mic I have.

Or the Sony MDR-7506 http://www.amazon.com/Sony-MDR7506-Professional-Diaphragm-Headphone/dp/B000AJIF4E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404329035&sr=8-1&keywords=MDR-7506

Sony MDR-7506

They are basically the audio industry's reference headphone and they can survive being beat up continuously.

Get this, top notch quality, has a toggle switch so you won't have audio on multiple outputs at once http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005TE7GP4/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=R66N7KR2EGSA&coliid=I3OEOXX14YF479

Here's an example: J-Tech Digital Premium Quality 1080P HDMI To HDMI + Audio (SPDIF + RCA Stereo) Audio Extractor Converter (JTDAT5CH) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BIQER0E/ref=cm_sw_r_taa_F2HOCb6SW191R

Many types at all the usual sources.

I think VModa has one https://www.amazon.com/V-MODA-BoomPro-Microphone-Gaming-Communication/dp/B00BJ17WKK

I'm gonna pick up this amp. It has 1 rca and 1 3.5mm input.

You could spend much less.

It might be cheaper to get an AV selection switch that lets you plug in multiple hdmi sources with one video output an maybe a couple different audio outputs. Then get a Yamaha with audio and phono inputs. Get one of those for $100-$150. Or an SMSL type desktop amp with Analog and Phono in.

https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-Audio-R-S202BL-Stereo-Receiver

​

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Blackbird-Switch-Toslink-Extractor

This littel guy https://www.amazon.ca/Maker-Portable-Audio-Mixer-Adapter/dp/B01M68UK38/ref=asc_df_B01M68UK38/?tag=googlemobshop-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292975451929&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1687820180428900493&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9000926&hvtargid=pla-380177247551&psc=1

And some proper cables. Because all the inputs are 1/8’ trs.

check this out

The speakers I have will only work with speaker wire. There is nothing else on the back except for red and black knobs to screw in the wire.

edit: I think I am going to buy THESE. Will that solve my problem?

speakers and amp

there's really no reason to buy that Klipsch setup

would this amp solve my problem? also, how do you connect the bare speaker wire into these? They don't have the clamps at the back.

https://www.amazon.ca/SMSL-Component-Amplifier-Black-SA-36A/dp/B017W13OR0/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1486565237&sr=8-4&keywords=SMSL+SA50