(Part 3) Top products from r/autorepair

The issue for me was that I had a rough idle and lack of power. Acceleration was fine, but maintaining that on inclines was hard. The problem was an excess of air getting into the system past the MAS.

MAS is certainly a good thing to fix. Might also look at the O2 sensor and other fuel ratio sensors. When idling, you give the engine a bit of fuel to just barely inch along. When accelerating you're throwing fuel at the engine, so it probably burns bad, but it's burning and accelerating fine. If you opened up your valves you would probably find them getting dirty, not that this is something you should do unless the problem persists. If you want you can get a compression tester and test your valves it might be educational though. I believe it's a relatively cheap and easy test to perform. My mechanic used something like this.

Anyway, like I said, I'm not super knowledgable about vehicles, but am quite good at troubleshooting. I hope your problem gets resolved. It was a long process for me to trace down my issue. I believe it was the O2 sensor, and that Intake Manifold gasket, that fixed the lions share of my problems, but I also had my valves done between these two resolutions.

Long story short, research, and discussion with your mechanic will ultimately resolve the situation, but just because they replaced a part and your warning light came back on doesn't mean they did something wrong. Good Luck!

https://www.amazon.com/Stereo-Harness-Sorento-wiring-installation/dp/B000KL50TA

as others have mentioned, you need to splice whatever connector harness comes with the new radio to the wiring harness linked above. The best way to do this is to individually solder each connection and insulate with heat shrinkable tubing, the second best way is with some 'butt' connectors and a crimping tool.

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-50413A-Insulated-Connectors-Assortment/dp/B000K7GRCI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486664654&sr=8-1&keywords=wire+crimping+kit

Get ahttps://www.amazon.com/Scratch-Brush-Fiberglass-Colors-vary/dp/B0019V18D2
It will clean off the rust. Clean out the chip area then put the touch up paint(dealer brand)-multiple coats. That will be good for a long while.

Looks like the brand is MB wheels, the model being: seven x. It is the only seven spoke wheel available in the black/machined finish.

http://www.amazon.com/MB-Wheels-Seven-Machined-4x100mm/dp/B003SLEX88

It is an older item therefore discontinued. Your best bet is to order online or lookup an MB wheels retailer locally and ask over the phone.

A single wheel is going to set you back around $120-$150.

If you haven't changed your transmission oil lately, then i would definitely recommend you do that asap. (change the filter too if your car has one)

You can also put in a bottle of lucas transmission fix as well (it really helped with my own transmission issues)
https://www.amazon.com/Lucas-10009-Transmission-Fix-oz/dp/B000ARTZPO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484584637&sr=8-1&keywords=lucas+transmission

For the bondo do you mean something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Bondo-261-Lightweight-Filler-Pint/dp/B0007ZG9TO/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1507462655&sr=1-2&keywords=bondo?

And what did you mean by rattle can? Sorry I'm completely new to this body stuff.

Thanks!

Would something like this work to patch up the dent?

Probably cheaper and easier at a shop, but if you want the experience and to learn something new (especially something that everyone thinks isnt possible for some reason) then buy a valve stem replacement kit and valve stem and give it a go.

AME 51025 Quick Valve Change Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005K8E9FY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_YFjLDbH442V40

For the light, you want a silicone sealant. Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81158-Silicone-Adhesive-Sealant/dp/B000AL6WLA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1419374300&sr=8-2&keywords=black+silicone+sealant

Be careful on the door. Are there screws behind that strip? If so, and you glue something on, you'll never be able to remove the door panel. I'd just do a bit of double stick tape, but not so much that I couldn't remove it.

https://www.amazon.com/Moog-K90704-Stabilizer-Bar-Link/dp/B000JZKY5W/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1539187126&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=Sway+bar+link+2002+tacoma&dpPl=1&dpID=41n-yk5DpWL&ref=plSrch




This thing. I heard chrisfix say the name in a video.

Valvoline MaxLife covers SP-4.

VALVOLINE VV324 Maxlife Full Synthetic Multi-Vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid, 1. quarts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BOYCN6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.pAZDb78WMEQ9

Here..http://www.amazon.com/3M-08693-Urethane-Windshield-Cartridge/dp/B000RW1XCK/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1462847526&sr=1-1&keywords=auto+window+adhesive…. ya go


You need to get all of the old off first. And wipe it down with solvent[KEEP IT OFF THE PAINT!!!!!] Perhaps tape the area off first

> That doesn't sound bad for dealership costs. Just if you want to give it a try, shocks could be $40 each and take you a couple hours to do it. It's a matter of removing one bolt and a nut, removing the old, replacing with the new. A set of sway bar bushings could run you $15 and takes about an hour to replace. Grab yourself a service manual and your still saving yourself some money.

would these be correct parts?
http://www.amazon.com/Prime-Choice-Auto-Parts-Absorber/dp/B00HCF4W28/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1462655997&vehicle=2007-54-679------------1-0&sr=1-3&ymm=2007%3Aford%3Afocus&keywords=rear+shocks

http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-45G1493-Professional-Suspension-Stabilizer/dp/B000NSJ9H4/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1462656263&vehicle=2007-54-679-49--1--5-8001-2174-1-1---1-0&sr=1-4&ymm=2007%3Aford%3Afocus&keywords=front+stabilizer+bar+bushings

The window regulator broke. You should be able to work the glass up until you can see two clips holding the glass to the regulator. Pull them out with a screwdriver. After that, you should be able to jog the entire assembly up and down to get it out of the door. The regulator will bolt onto the back of the assembly.
http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-741-823-Replacement-Regulator-Chrysler/dp/B000E347LQ

Check the electrical plug for the ABS sensor from the hub assembly, it may have a bad connection. Here is a random assembly for reference. https://www.amazon.com/MOOG-515036-Wheel-Bearing-Assembly/dp/B000BZJVFY

Where is it leaking from? The pressure hose or the pump itself?

PS leaks are fairly affordable and straightforward to fix, so rather than trying to "divert the leak", you're better off fixing it. PS fluid is flammable, so you run the risk of it splashing on the exhaust manifold and catching fire.

You should be able to find both the pump & PS hose at a junkyard for under $100. Simple hand tools to replace.

If it's a minor leak, you could try your luck with Lucas PS stop leak. It's about one of the only "stop leak" products that actually works.