Top products from r/breadboard
We found 17 product mentions on r/breadboard. We ranked the 17 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
1. Velleman VTBEND1 Resistor and Axial Component Lead Bending Tool Set, 1 Grade to 12 Grade, 1/4W to 3W
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Four piece setMake consistent accurate bends on axial component leads
2. 22 AWG Silicone Hook Up Wire - 22 Gauge Stranded Tinned Copper Wire with Silicone Insulation, 6 Colors (Black, Red, Yellow, Green, Blue, White) 23ft / 7m Each, Hook Up Wire Kit from Plusivo
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
22 Gauge Hook up Stranded Wire Kit: This kit contains 6 spools of gauge 22 high-quality and highly flexible stranded tinned copper wire of different colors (Black, Red, Yellow, Green, Blue, White), which are perfect for color coding your circuit wires. Well suited for applications like RC toys, elec...
3. 2Pcs 14 AWG Jumper Wires Alligator Clips to Alligator Clip Heavy Duty Silicone Test Leads Set 39"/1 m
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Attention: Sold By Bei Qian ; Alligator Clip Test Leads: 1pcs Red and 1pcs BlackType: Double ends Alligator Clip Test Leads Cable Connector. Great for all electrical testing and electronic applications for things like automotive accessoriesInsulated Alligator Clip Jaw Opening:10mm Nominal Voltage: 6...
4. KeeYees 60pcs 5mm Pitch 2 Pin & 3 Pin PCB Mount Screw Terminal Block Connector for Arduino (50 x 2 Pin, 10 x 3 Pin)
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
2 pin & 3 pinPitch: 5mmRated Value: AC 300V, 10AFor wire size: 14-22AWGPackage include: 50pcs 2 Pin Screw Terminal Block Connector ; 10pcs 3 Pin Screw Terminal Block Connector
5. 20pcs E-Simpo 2.54mm Pitch (0.1") PCB Screw Wire Terminal Block, 2.54mm Rated 150V6A CE UL,Copper Material Rohs. (2.54mm 2P)
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
20pcs/lot 2.54mm PCB Terminal BlockRated Value : AC 150V 6AWiring Range: 24-12AWGBrass Pin, Rohs CompliantAll 2.54mm Terminal Blocks can not be spliced,so please buy the Pins you need directly.
6. DC Voltage Regulator, DROK DC-DC Buck Converter Module 10V-75V to 0-60V 12A Adjustable Power Supply Step Down Transformer Board DKP6012 CC CV Numerical Control Volt Reducer
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
DROK buck conveter input voltage range is DC 10-75V, adjustable output voltage range is DC 0-60V, can be used to convert 24v to 12v 5v, adjustable output current range is 0-12A, max output power is 720W.Constant Current & Voltage: the step down regulator can adjust to constant output voltage, or con...
7. GALYGG 12V DC Switching Power Supply 5A 60W, Universal Regulated Transformer Converter AC 110V-220V to DC 12V, for LED Strip Lights, Radio, Computer Project
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
【Widely Uses】 60W ac-dc power supply housed in a compact metal case. This rugged unit is ideal for reducing standby power usage in an abundant number of applications, more than a linear supply, such as industrial automation, 3D Print, DIY project works, LED display, LED strip light, etc.【Safet...
8. Striveday™Flexible Silicone Wire 22awg Electric wire 22 gauge Coper Hook Up Wire 300V Cables electronic stranded wire cable electrics DIY BOX-1
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
<b>Product Name :Silicone Wire; Wire Type :22AWG; <b><b>Material : Silicone rubber , Tinning Copper; <b><b>Voltage Rating: 300 Volts ,Rated temperature: -60 C - + 150 C<b><b>Wire Length :6M / 19.6Ft each color<b><b>External Color : Black red blue green yellow<b>
9. Cardas Soldering Wire Quad Eutectic Silver Solder with rosin flux 1/4 lbs (113g) roll
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
Quad Eutectic solder 1/4 lbs (110 gram) roll contains a proprietary blend of silver, copper, tin & leadQuad Eutectic Roll Materials: Sn, Pb, Cu, Ag. Silver for higher conductivity and stronger solder jointsQuad Eutectic Roll Melting Point: 364-384º F (185 to 195º C)Solder wire diameter: 0.032" / 0...
10. Handmade Electronic Music: The Art of Hardware Hacking
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Routledge
11. Kalevel 120pcs Breadboards Jumper Wires Male to Female Jumper Wires Male to Male Jumper Wires Female to Female Jumper Wires Kit Long Ribbon Cable 20cm (m-m, f-f, m-f)
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
Each cable length: about 20cm /8-inch.Including : 40-pin male to female jumper wires + 40-pin male to male cable + 40-pin female to female cable =120pcs in totalThe male ends meant for insertion into standard 0.1"(2.54mm) female sockets and the female ends are meant for insertion onto standard 0.1"(...
12. 24V 48V to 12V Buck Converter, DROK Micro DC-DC Voltage Regulator Module 15-55V 36V to 12 V 1.5A 18W Step Down Power Supply Transformer Volt Inverter for Car Auto Motor Vehicle Automotive
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
DROK buck converter input voltage range is DC 15V-55V, can step 24v/36v/48v down to DC 12v, output current is 1.5A, output power is 18W.The voltage reducer module is made of full glue material; waterproof, anti-shock and moisture-proof.Our step down converter is designed with over-temperature and ov...
13. Geeetech Iduino Nano 328 ATmega328 Board V3.0 5V/16Mhz compatible with Arduino’s IDE
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
14. Southwire 64169622 5 Conductor 18/5 Thermostat Wire, 18-Gauge Solid Copper Class 2 Power-Limited Circuit Cable, 50-Feet, Brown
Sentiment score: -1
Number of reviews: 1
Rated 150-VoltSunlight resistant (-20-Degree C to 60-Degree C)18 gauge copper conductorsGreen compliant RoHSMade in the U.S.A.
15. Chemtronics Desoldering Braid, Chem-Wik, Rosin, 10-50L 0.10", 50ft.
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Price For: Each Braid Material: Copper Width: 2.5mm Length: 50ft Braid Color: Blue Leaded Process Compatible: Yes Roll Length: 50ft RoHS Compliant: Yes
16. Elenco 140 Piece Pre-formed Jumper Wire Kit
Sentiment score: -1
Number of reviews: 1
140 Lengths of Pre-Stripped, Pre-Formed #22 Solid Wire in Various ColorsContains 14 different lengths of 10 pieces eachContained in a Plastic CaseDimensions: 6-1/2" x 2-1/2" x 5/8"From Elenco Electronics
You can try /r/electronics, /r/askelectronics, /r/EngineeringStudents, /r/engineering and /r/arduino too, in case this doesn't receive much attention. This is a pretty small subreddit, with very few subscribers. You'll have much more luck in those subreddits (the first two are very good for these types of questions).
This book would be perfect for you. Heck, I'm in my fourth year of electrical engineering, and I love that book. I'm sure you can find a free version somewhere, but I won't link you to that. It truly is an exceptional book that really teaches you about these things. Highly recommended and well worth the money. You'll have to make some purchases before each chapter, nothing too expensive. Just stop wasting money on alcohol or drugs and spend it on something that will benefit you in the future, something more relevant to education haha.
Seriously, that book will explain to you like you're five. It is great. And if you have any questions about the contents of it, you can google it, ask someone on the subreddits, or PM me for information.
Mind if I ask where you live? And what inspires you to be an engineer? What are some of your favorite classes in school? Tell me more about you.
I must say, your approach is a very good one. I can already tell you're a highly motivated person. You have a good attitude.
Edit: Some people are suggesting you start with arduino. But I really recommend you start with reading, and the basic tools (breadboard, components, etc). Although arduino can be basic, it involves coding as well, something you're likely not familiar with. Just get the book, and I promise you'll be satisfied.
I assume you are running it off a CR2032. Not going to happen. You read adafruit's page on powering this thing right?
http://data.energizer.com/pdfs/cr2032.pdf
> Pulse drain of ~6.8mA.
EDIT: Your breadboard has just one issue. You really should solder the screw terminals to that board. I doubt you are going to get a very good electrical connection with the way you have it wired right now. It might work, might make it sound terrible, might not work at all. You can push the wires against the holes for a short term fix, but stuff like that is asking for trouble. You might put some capacitance in parallel with your button to do hardware debouncing. The capacitor would go from pin 2 to ground. The value doesn't matter much and you'll know if it's too small because you won't be debounced. 1n, 10n, 0.1u, 1u are all fine.
Check and make sure your speaker is either 4 or 8 ohms.
While you wait for your battery stuff from Adafruit you can try powering board from a cell phone charger. Don't do this with a USB port on your computer. You will likely either trip a resettable fuse, but you could possibly also damage the USB port drawing as much power as this thing takes. This idea probably won't work with two 4 ohm speakers, but should work with two 8 ohm or one 4 ohm speakers. As to the USB charger you want one that's rated for 5v 2a. From there you just use a wire to connect Vbus (pin 3) and Vin (pin 1).
Last bit of advice I have is use solid wires whenever possible. I pretty much only use stranded jumper wires when I need a female connector on one or both ends. Pull back the rubber boot over one of your alligator clips. If they look like this don't trust them. They're pretty much garbage which is why they are so cheap. The wire gauge is a lot thinner than the insulation leads you to believe. You can make them better by at least soldering the wire to the alligator clips, but really you would want thicker wire. At that point you should just buy good ones. You can get them from Amazon, but it's kind of a rip off. Better to get them from aliX and just be patient on the shipping.
https://www.amazon.com/Alligator-Clips-Heavy-Silicone-Jumper/dp/B07L29V4Z2/
I've bought leads from this aliX store before and have had good luck with them:
https://cleqee.aliexpress.com/store/group/Test-Leads/1810103_253379085.html
As to the actual clips I recommend these:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32352890876.html
Good luck!
Thanks for the informative reply! I really appreciate it! I am on a budget, but i am willing to wait for better parts, It is just going to be about a month before i can work again, and i don't feel like the kit i got will last me long enough(In terms of things to do with it).
Would you recommend reading more into reading/understanding voltages, resistances, and currents? Or can i pick up most of that from a good multimeter, testing how much parts can take(when i can) and knowing what is bad and good?
I am not a fan of tutorials, unless they explain what each part does, rather than "This goes here so this works".
I have watched a lot of videos on how to do certain things, like always keeping the power supply off until you work with parts, and short circuits, and the basics of soldering. I already got the arduino software installed, and i am planning on ordering a simple microcontroller to use on my lcd display. I got the programming down already, just seeing if i should get the cheaper one. What is the lowest you would spend on a decent multimeter? I have one that is about 10$ bookmarked, and now that you mentioned it, i am having second thoughts.
This is the best book on the subject and really got me far in creating original circuits: My copy is as dog-eared and bookmarked as could be.
Nicolas Collins
Handmade Electronic Music: The Art of Hardware Hacking
https://www.amazon.com/dp/0415998735/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_57MCAbAZ0WC52
More than hacking and mods, really gets into playing with ICs and such.
Have fun.
I just bought some of this wire
And so far it's been great
Looks like you want these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M5WLZDW
That stuff is pretty good, but I especially like the silver-bearing solder, like this. https://www.amazon.com/Cardas-Soldering-Eutectic-Silver-Solder/dp/B015X68HXW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1469639712&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=silver+bearing+solder
I'd go for leaded solder with no silver rather than a silver-bearing lead-free mix, though. Lead-free solder is harder to use, especially with no flux/rosin. No wonder you were having problems.
The black brick thing with the screws on top? Terminal block, I think. You put wires in there and tighten down the screws and it makes an electrical connection.
I concur with this. If you are talking portable and not a 110AC deal, put a 12v car or motorcycle battery at your launch station with power routed to each launch pad. You can go with a microcontroller if you want but I think it would be overkill and I would prefer physical switches in any event. Big buttons to mash. You can get some 18-5 or 18-7 thermostat wire:
https://www.amazon.com/Southwire-64169622-Conductor-Thermostat-Power-Limited/dp/B0069F4HHC
(here is some 14-5 if you're really worried about the gauge)
https://www.wireandcableyourway.com/14-5-soow-portable-cord-600v-ul-csa.html
If using a 5 conductor as an example, you ought to be able to take power to the buttons on one wire of the five through a master kill switch, then use fire buttons on the other four that return the individual launch pads to ground. One cable from launch control to launch station.