(Part 3) Top products from r/cyclocross

As far as tires go, CX tires on pavement can definitely feel a little squirrely, especially when descending. I'd say have two sets of tires, one for road and one for off-road endeavors, but it's really up to you. I mean, I'm not the one spending your money.

When you're looking at CX tires, there are basically three categories: "file tread" tires, "all-around" tires, and mud tires. File tread tires have smaller, closely spaced knobs/grooves and are good for fire roads and dry trails. All-around tires tend to have a slightly more aggressive tread pattern than file tread tires, particularly with more pronounced side knobs. These tires are good for lots of conditions. Mud tires have super chunky tread patterns for sloppy racing conditions. They won't be very fun on pavement, and they'll be overkill for most trails.

Your current tires fall into the "all-around" category. Challenge Grifo tires are used by a lot of racers and they have a pretty good reputation. I don't have any personal experience with them, however.

If you want to use the same tires for road and trail riding you'll probably want a file tread tire. Michelin Jet and Kenda Small Block Eight are the first two that come to mind, but there are lots of other options too. And if you want to matchy-match your tire brands, you can always get the Challenge Grifo XS. File treads are definitely viable race tires for drier races with lots of hard-pack and grass sections and not very much mud or sand. A lot of people race with a file tread tire on their rear wheel with a slightly chunkier tire on the front to take advantage of both low rolling resistance in the rear and cornering "bite" in the front.

And as far as my personal recommendations: Michelin Mud 2's are the jamz. Great all-around tire which I would definitely recommend for CX racing if you end up not liking the Grifos. For road tires: Continental Grand Prix 4000S

I've used both the TRP (Tektro Racing Products) CX9's and cheap Tektro Mini V's.

TRP CX9: http://www.amazon.com/TRP-CX-9-Mini-V-Brake-Set/dp/B004C966DK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1343829859&sr=8-1&keywords=trp+cx9

Tektro Mini-V brakes: http://www.amazon.com/Tektro-926A-L-Pull-Brake-Black/dp/B001F2USVS/ref=sr_1_3?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1343829905&sr=1-3&keywords=tektro+mini+v

As far as braking performance is concerned, they both worked very well (MUCH MUCH better than cantilever brakes). As you can see there is a massive difference in price between the two brake sets. The CX9's are nicer, but I'll list the advantages I've noticed, and you can decide whether it is worth the price difference for you. Side note: Try to find some used, I got my set for $40 I think?

Advantages of the CX9's:
-Lighter (but not by much, 40 grams for the set I think?)
-Much nicer hardware (titanium hardware, and hex bolts instead of phillips)
-Stays in adjustment longer (don't have to tweak the return spring tension nearly as often)
-Better design for CX bikes (some people run into issues with the Tektros not clearing the frame when releasing the brake to change wheels)
-Cartridge-style brake pads instead of the ones where you replace the entire pad and hardware.

In general, yes, mini-v brakes will improve your braking performance, but there are compromises. Modulation is more limited than with cantis, takes some getting used to. Clearance issues, the pads will be closer to the rim, making it easier for them to get gunked up. More importantly (to me at least) is if your wheel takes a big hit and goes a little out of true, the rim will rub on the brake more easily. This can be an issue when racing, but less so for casual riding, becase you can stop to either true the wheel, or reduce cable tension to move the brake pads out and get you home.

I'm guessing we've had experience on the same cantis. I agree, they're pretty horrible. I (think) prefer narrow stance cantis, vs wide like those tekros. I have Cane Creek's SCX-5 on two bikes, three counting the GF's, and they stop much better than the Tektros ever did.

All that said, the Avid Ultimates that came on my Cronus are in wide stance and work pretty damn well too...so maybe it's just the Tektros that suck.

I saw in one of your replies you're going to try Shimano pads before switching. Unless they're nice pads I wouldn't waste my time. I've never had good luck with those. I tried Kool Stops, both salmon and salmon+black, and they didn't really help. I have a set of cheap Jagwire brake pads on one bike and they stop pretty well. On two other bikes it's the black SRAM's (made by SwissStop) and they're awesome. The gf's bike is running salmon+black Kool Stops, and they're pretty good too.

Nice find! I even raced one of these for a bit. It seems like it's been sitting for a while. I would replace:

• Tires: Get the biggest tire that'll fit.
  
• Brake Pads: This bike looks like it's been sitting. The rubber in the pads is toast. Get some Kool Stops
  
• Chain: Never trust an old one. KMC makes solid stuff.
  

Just returned from morning ride and noted a few more things...

I did add also a mirror to handle bars. This one to be exact.

This head light lasts over 12 hours:

The tail light it came with -- blah -- have a more robust one.

Also it took a while to find the right spot for air pump. I am considering a bag eventually but for now this is the location that works best. Other locations obstructed loading it on the carrier. Or it simply falls off the clip it came with, so I use one of the removable zip ties to wrap around the pump itself for now. If it stays in this location, I will trim the zip-ties shorter.

These are the pedals the store (REI) had on this one. I wanted to invest more time on the bike before considering switching to clipless -- to sort of "earn" 'em.

This post morning run bike picture.

+1 to everything everyone else has been saying, and also something which I haven't seen mentioned yet:

Some people prefer gel pads in their gloves, other prefer the gel on the handlebars under the wraps, for example this.

Personally I have a JakeTheSnake which I ride with gel gloves, and a pure road bike (custom build) with gel on the bars. For long rides (100km+) I find the bar gel to be more comfortable and provide better numbness relief. I've done similar distances on the Jake, but my posture is a bit different on that and bar gel there does nothing for me.

So anyhoo just be aware of that option, some people find it helpful.

I'm about 190 lbs and keep my clinchers at 40 in the rear and 35 in the front for whatever I'm doing unless I'm hauling something heavy on my back. When I first started out, though, I would keep them around 55/45 and would still manage to pinch flat because bike handling. Carry a couple extra tubes and a pump with you until you get used to doing off road things on a road like bike - you'll only learn by doing.

These things are a lifesaver, by the way.

Specialized Sirus Pro - $1450

Plus:

FSA Drop Bar: $30


SRAM Apex Shifters: $300

Cabling: ~$20

Equals a $1800 total.

But an equivalently spec'd bike with drop bars:

Specialized Allez Comp Apex: $1550

You couldn't make a decent conversion from one to the other for $100. Sure if you want to use crappy components you can always find some cheaper route, but if you want a bike that runs well it's almost always cheaper to buy a drop-bar bike and pony up the extra cash than it is to buy a flat-bar bike and think that you can easily convert it for a reasonable price to drop-bar later.

They make them in both 9 and 10 speeds. With the XT 9/10 speed stuff you need specific derailleur for 9 or 10 speed for some reason.

The rear D for 9 speed is the M772 or M773. Also, the Deore SGS is a good choice, this is what came on my bike and it's the same derailleur, just a bit heavier.

The 10 speed rear is the M781

I like these. Lots of braking power. Only downside is that you have to do the full setup again each time you change the pad. In stock holders, you can set it up once, and then just change the pad inserts.

Just about anything is better than the stock Tektro pads.

No worries - cycling is full of random terms that you have to get wrong a few times before you start to sound like a real cyclist!

As far as long-term plans - you can't go wrong with anything by Joe Friel

https://www.amazon.com/Cyclists-Training-Bible-Joe-Friel/dp/1934030201

And again, there's nothing wrong with an intense program this year so you can get some racing under your belt - just know the limitations of it. Also, since cross is so technical, a season of racing on a shortened training plan will probably do you wonders next year. That way you won't have any jitters and will know what you're in for.

Also, "Base Building for Cyclists" is very good as well:

https://www.amazon.com/Base-Building-Cyclists-Foundation-Performance/dp/193138293X

I think that the only real solution is using very thin spacers (for the cassette) and shims (for the rotor). Otherwise you're just running up against minor differences in spacing between hub manufacturers.

I ran mini-v's over the last winter for what you describe. They were more powerful for the late summer (dry) single track rides but I found that the mud/grit/salt in my area was prone to getting stuck between the pads and rim/tires which made terrible noises, reduced my braking, and eroded ... everything. I'm going back to wide cantis for the rough weather. Discs would probably be the best for single track but might be overkill for anything less.

Try out different brake levers before you buy. I switched from these to these and think that was a bigger upgrade than switching from cantis to mini-v's.

You need two hole shoes, three are almost always for road cleats. There are styles ranging from carbon fiber racing to leather shoes that would look good in a professional office, but mostly in between.

You may need to buy the cleats if they didn't come with the bike. They usually come with the pedals out of the box.

I didn't realize this was a rhetorical question that you just wanted folks to agree with you on. If you're that worried - do it right and use a protractor.

http://bikedynamics.co.uk/guidelines.htm

https://www.amazon.com/12-PROTRACTOR-GONIOMETER-SET-AMS/dp/B000MZRQXC

Put your old shoes on measure the angles then put the new shoes on and make adjustments.

The couple I know of are the Avid Solid Sweep G3s and the Carver Mud Runner CX.

There's also the Hayes Mudcutters, which aren't entirely solid, but have much less cutout that most rotors, and are way cheaper than the prior two mentioned.

• Tuck them into the skinsuit
  
  
• Put keys in a magnetic box attached to the underside of your car.
  
  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003WXGLS2/
  
  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GTOUG0/

>still a 10 speed cassette.

This really doesn't mean much.

What you need, more than anything, is ample room for fenders and breakaway fender mounts. http://www.amazon.com/SKS-Front-Fender-Breakaway-Mount/dp/B001N84RHU

You will benefit from having disc brakes.

Beyond that, find something sold near you that has very standard parts that isn't too special because it should be taking a beating, salt and all.

Not to be redundant, but would these work (if they did fit)?
http://www.amazon.com/Michelin-Protek-Reflective-Sidewalls-700x28c/dp/B001AR87S4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1374799453&sr=8-4&keywords=700x+28

The course is mostly grass/tight dirt roads.