(Part 2) Top products from r/lawncare

Alright, I'll tell you what I would do if I were you. Keep in mind that this isn't the only way to do things.

You have about 2.5 acres, so anything high maintenance is going to be out the window. That'll be too expensive for you. So we'll go with something that's a little lower-maintenance.

Kill off the salad bar (optional)

This step would be getting rid of the weeds. You have two options for this.

1. Kill off most broadleaf weeds
   
2. Kill off all the weeds.
   
   If you go with option 1, you'll need glyphosate. I gave you an Amazon link, but you can also find the same thing at your local big-box hardware store. Glyphosate is the active ingredient in RoundUp, in case you were curious. Mix it up, spray it everywhere. If you did it right, everything will be dead in 14 days.
   
   If you go with option 2, I'd recommend anything with the active ingredient 2,4-D. Again, I gave you an Amazon link, but you can also find a ton of similar products at a Home Depot or Lowe's. You can also go with a granular option but I don't like those as much if you have animals, because it'll stick around longer and possible be bad for your doggie. Up to you, though.
   
   In either case, if you go with the liquid option, you'll want to keep a few things in mind:
   
   

• Spray in the morning or evening, whenever there's no wind or breeze. You don't want this stuff just drifting around.
  
• Keep your dog off the parts that you've sprayed for a day. Let the stuff dry. Once it's dried and absorbed by the plants, it'll be safe for your dog unless the dog eats a lot of the sprayed vegetation.
  
• You'll be safe to seed 7 days after applying these products. So if you spray on a Saturday, the first day you'd be safe to throw down seed would be the following Sunday.
  
  You might be thinking about weed and feed products. I try to stay away from weed and feed products because the vast majority of the time you don't need weed control literally everywhere, but in your case that might be what you need. I don't know if a weed and feed product would interfere with seed germination, so you'd have to do your own research on that one. Getting rid of weeds without seeding would allow the hard-to-kill weeds (crabgrass, goosegrass, dallisgrass, creeping charlie, etc.) to flourish, because you've just eliminated their competition. I wouldn't advise not seeding if you're going to kill things.
  
  

  Initial seeding
  

  This is seriously pushing the spring seeding window with timing right now, so this step may not be for you. You'll have to make your best guess based on your current temperatures.
  
  I'd go with Turf Type Tall Fescue, for the following reasons:
  
  

• Good drought tolerance
  
• Good wear tolerance (because dog)
  
• Reasonable disease tolerance
  
• Won't be a magazine-quality showoff lawn, but still looks really good when managed correctly.
  
• Is relativley low-maintenance, compared to bluegrass or bermudagrass.
  
• Low cost to seed.
  
• Can grow reasonably well outside its typical plant hardiness zones.
  
• You can spray pretty much any herbicide on it for weed control, and it won't be hurt unless you do something seriously wrong
  
  
  Since you have a lot of space to seed, don't feel the need to go with expensive, pretty cultivars. Cheap is fine, and your dog won't care. This is what most homeowners go with. Can't go wrong with it. Or you could go with K31. It won't grow in as pretty as the Scott's, but it'll still look fine, and you'll get solid turf out of it. My parents just seeded 4 acres with it in NJ, and they're very happy with the results.
  
  Spread your seed around with a broadcast spreader, following the pounds-per-square-foot recommendation on the bag. Don't be afraid to look secondhand for a broadcast spreader, as sometimes they're needlessly pricey. I got one on craigslist for fifteen bucks, in like new condition.
  
  Once your seed is down, make sure you keep everything wet. Not sopping, dripping, the ground is soaked wet, but enough to keep it moist so that the seeds have enough water to germinate. Rain is certainly a help, as is the morning dew. If it's unusually hot or dry, you'll have to water it yourself. Your tall fescue should germinate in roughly 14 days, and should be ready for its first mowing within six weeks. You'll have to be the judge on when it's ready.
  
  

  Feeding
  

  You don't have to put down fertilizer at the same time as you put down seed, but you should do it within a week or two, so those little seedlings will have all of the nutrients they'll need to grow. Personally I go with this brand because of cost, although they changed the packaging so that it now looks like this. If you find a better deal on one, good for you, go ahead and get it, and let me know where it is :).
  
  Once your yard is established, you won't really need anything else except good old trusty milorganite. It's an organic fertilizer, so it's totally safe for the dog, and it's more of a soil treatment than anything else. If you want to spend the extra money and put it down 5 times a year (spring green-up, early summer, July 4th, late summer, and early fall), go for it. You can't possibly hurt your lawn with milorganite. I seriously can't say enough good things about it. If you want to save a few bucks, I'd say the best times to put it down are spring green-up, mid-summer, and early fall.
  
  You might see a lot of products like Scott's lawn food. These are mostly nitrogen, and will push green leafy growth, but kinda neglect root growth and all-around plant health. It's great if your dog is really wearing the turf down and it needs a boost, but for most people it really isn't necessary. Plus, budget, amirite?
  
  

  Fall and overseeding
  

  If you want to, you could ignore your yard until the fall, skip everything I just said, and start here. Fall is the best time to seed. Whether or not you'll start now (early May), you should definitely overseed in the fall. Same as above, but skip the weed-killing steps. Weeds don't really germinate in the fall. Not really part of their survival plan. Fall seeding allows some seed to come up right before winter, so that your turf has a real advantage over encroaching weeds come springtime.
  
  

  General tips
  

  Your turf type tall fescue (TTTF) will thrive best when mowed high. 3.5"-4" is the sweet spot. At this height, the blades are nice and long so they can absorb a lot of sunlight, and they're also tall enough to shade out a lot of competing weeds, stopping them before they can take over.
  
  Some weeds can't be controlled with stuff you find at the hardware store. For tough ones like crabgrass, you'll have to kill them with quinclorac, the brand name of which is Drive (or Drive XLR8, or Drive 75DF, or something similar). Nutsedge or nutgrass you'll have to controll with SedgeHammer, or a similar product with sulfentrazone. Nothing will kill invading bermudagrass except RoundUp, unfortunately.
  
  Put down a pre-emergent herbicide in the spring. This stuff stops seeds from germinating, so don't use it when you're overseeding. Putting this stuff down will stop crabgrass and goosegrass from germinating, so that you won't have to spend outrageous amounts of money trying to eliminate weeds from your grass in the heat of summer. Seriously it's worth it.
  
  Check out this guy's YouTube channel. Watch the videos from when he lived in Indiana, because he had a TTTF lawn, and did a really good job with it. There's days worth of content there, and he'll answer questions you didn't even know you had.
  
  

  Summing up
  

  I don't know how much you already know, and I'm sorry if I explained way too much or you feel pandered to. I just really like this stuff, and I want to be helpful. I gave you a full plan for a complete overhaul. Not all of this may be necessary for you. I won't be mad if you decide to not do a lot of these things. Having just bought a house myself, it's still very fresh in my mind how much work moving and setting everything up is. Please let me know if you have any questions or want clarifications on stuff.
  
  Happy lawn-ing!

You might consider speeding the process along by transplanting plugs from the healthy areas of the lawn into the bare areas. You can use a plugger like this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CSXJR6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NV79AbY2K30JY

Simply take a plug of dirt from the bare area and carry it to where you want to pull a healthy plug and push it out of the plugger there. Alternatively you can just put the dirt into a bucket and fill the holes when you are finished. Then pull a good plug of bermuda and carry it over to the bare area still inside the tool. Push the tool into the hole you previously made and eject your plug into it. You can put a bit of peat moss and a sprinkle of Milorganite in there beforehand if you would like. That can improve the chances of a successful transplant. Push it in gently with your foot if it isn’t perfectly level. Sprinkle a bit of milo on top. Water and cut as normal. The spots you pulled the plugs from will fill back in in no time. The closer together you set the plugs the faster they will fill the bare spots in but they really don’t have to be that close together.

I have filled in bare spots in my bermuda this way plenty of times. I would say my transplants have been successful about 90% of the time. Blends perfectly. Looks great.

I've got one and love it. No hassle with oil, gas, and the other maintenance headaches. I just plop the battery in and go.

My lawn is 11,000 sqft with a bit of a hill, so I spent the extra $100 and got the self-propelled one.

My battery is the 5ah one and it lasts at least an hour and even longer when I mow the flat areas and don't need the self-propelled helping me as much.

To clean up the deck, I use a 2in. Plastic Joint Knife but that's mostly needed when I mow wet grass. Otherwise the deck stays pretty clean.

The only slight issue is that I haven’t found a third party mower blade that fits this mower. EGO sells a different style mower blade (which I recommend getting because it does a much better job lifting the grass when it cuts) but I would’ve like to try some of the blades made by other companies.

I'm sorry, but I do not trust Pennington at all when it comes to turf recommendations, especially since they list Kentucky-31 as a proper turf grass.

Unless you have a fescue type that is designed to be cut that short, you really shouldn't be under 2.5". Even if you follow the 1/3rd rule, you'd need to be cutting as soon as the lawn reaches 3" if you are trying to maintain it with a 2" cut.

Clemson recommends 3 - 3.5" as a general rule of thumb depending on the time of year. (warmer climates compared to Penn St.)

https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/tall-fescue-maintenance-calendar/


Iowa St. recommends 3".

https://hortnews.extension.iastate.edu/2015/11-13/tallfescue.htm

University of Maryland recommends 3-4" for Tall Fescue.

https://extension.umd.edu/hgic/plants/mowinggrasscycling-lawns

Of course there's also always Pete from GCI turf on the ol' Youtube who has arguably the best looking Fescue lawn I've seen, and he likes 4.5 - 5" for hit cut height.

I used to work in the industry, and I know how to treat brownpatch. The article you linked is correct as I said that retail stores themselves don't really keep decent fungicides stocked.

However here's what you can get online for it:

Group 1

Clearys 3336F Fungicide

https://www.domyown.com/clearys-3336f-fungicide-p-1345.html

Group 3:

Propiconazole

https://www.domyown.com/propiconazole-143-p-16567.html?sub_id=16568

Eagle 20EW

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004S6ZZFM/ref=ox_sc_mini_detail?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2EO23QHLO0CX9

Tebuconazole
https://www.domyown.com/prime-source-tebuconazole-36-p-12199.html

Myclobutanil
https://www.domyown.com/myclobutanil-20ew-to-fungicide-p-16654.html


Group 3 and 11:
Armada 50 WDG Fungicide

https://www.domyown.com/armada-50-wdg-fungicide-p-1350.html

Group 11:
Fluoxastrobin

https://www.domyown.com/fame-granular-fungicide-p-15599.html

https://www.domyown.com/disarm-fungicide-p-13524.html

Azoxystrobin

https://www.domyown.com/heritage-fungicide-p-1343.html

Other (group M):
chlorothalonil
https://www.domyown.com/daconil-ultrex-turf-care-fungicide-p-2309.html

For Brown patch prevention when conditions first appear that favor a fungus outbreak (Lots of rain, followed by hot humid temps) A preventative application can be applied, and is good for 28 days.

For curative it's a bit more work. It typically takes up to 4 applications, 2 of one group, and one of another group, and then one of either the same group or back to the first group. All 14 days apart.

Typically my fungicide treatment revolves around the cheaper group 3 and group 1 products, with group 11's thrown in for rotation to prevent resistance from developing. If I'm doing Group 1 for my primary, my secondary application will typically be something like Armada. since it has both Group 3 and 11, if I'm using a Group 3 as the main application I'll use something like Heritage for my group 11.

You have to be really careful about where you get your information, as a lot of magazine articles or brochures are written by people who haven't really done the research. I don't trust Turf Mag or sales media to inform me on turf, the same way I don't just the verge to teach someone how to build a computer.

I'll look into this. I have already invested in 2 separate timers and I'm not too interested in buying more, but this may be the best solution. My only concern is the distance they would have to be going from the spigot... more hoses for my hose collection!

I think something like this may be the best solution? https://www.amazon.com/Melnor-4-Zone-Digital-Water-Timer/dp/B0094KM4VK/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1536070143&sr=8-14&keywords=water+timer

I use this one to satisfactory effect as well, though it may require a little more effort. But that's really as simple as it is. Pull them up, and they don't reproduce. I can't always get right to them when I see them, but I do keep an eye out for the flowers and pinch them off before they go to seed. Then I come back around and pop them out by the deep root when I get a chance. I've only been in this house a year and a half. Pulled a lot of dandelions last year. It's early, but I've seen very few this time around.

And because you can't avoid the ones that float in on the breeze from your neighbors, a good regimen of corn gluten meal or something else to prevent germination will help out over time. Keep your turf and its soil strong, and prevent most of the seeds from sprouting, and you'll be in good shape within a couple of years.

The Acclaim Extra does more of the work in suppressing Bermuda. The Turflon Ester helps some, but is there mostly to lessen the impact of the AE on the Fescue. You need the AE. TE will work on its own if you have a little sprout pop up here and there, but it won't dent it long term on what you have going on.

I got a pint of AE each year. I use seedworldusa.com and coupon code seed4life for 10% off. They're the cheapest I've found: https://www.seedworldusa.com/products/acclaim-extra-herbicide-1-pint

Triclopyr: https://www.seedworldusa.com/products/triclopyr-4-herbicide-1-gallon (Triclopyr is the active ingredient in Turflon Ester. It's the exact same stuff, they just haven't paid for the labeling to approve it for use on ornamental lawns. You aren't really supposed to buy it this way, but it's far cheaper and I do it. Triclopyr is also a great broadleaf herbicide so you can use it other times of year to knock out most weeds.)

The other stuff I buy by the gallon, as eventually it gets used, it's far, far cheaper, and I have extra to help friends with when they have issues pop up.

I used Lazer Blue Marker from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Liquid-Harvest-Concentrated-Pattern-Indicator/dp/B0049I9OBA

Southern Ag Surfactant: https://www.amazon.com/Southern-Ag-Surfactant-Herbicides-Non-Ionic/dp/B00553EREC

That's the plan that worked for me.

Dethatching

I rented a slice seeder last year and found it did a decent enough job of removing thatch. Plan on doing it again this year but three passes:

1. First pass with no seed. Quickly comb over with a rake then clean up with a push lawn sweeper (I got this shitty overpriced thing but it was soooo useful. If i had a mower with a bagger attachment, I would've just used that instead to bag the debris).
   
2. Second pass with 1.5 lbs/1000sqft of seed going North-South
   
3. Third pass with 1.5 lbs/1000sqft of seed going East-West.
   
   I like using the slice seeder because if I broadcast the seeds, birds with just eat them up.
   
   Seed and Fertilizer
   
   You should put down starter fertilizer at the same time you put down your seed. The most important thing at this point proper watering schedule!
   
   Seed Mix
   > I want something that looks decent but is good against summer droughts and not too delicate.
   
   We all want this haha. I'm going for a more disease-resistant mix this year, so I customized my own mix of grass breeds:
   
   

• 30% Bewitched Kentucky bluegrass
  
• 30% Diva Kentucky Bluegrass
  
• 20% Zodiac chewings fescue
  
• 10% Spartan II hard fescue
  
• 10% Beacon hard fescue
  
  It is a little (a lot) expensive but I'm only year #2 into my lawn renovation. My lawn is only 4000 sqft and most box-store products are sized for 5000sqft so its not "expensive" for me to experiment.
  
  You probably want a KBG/Rye mix. If theres any shade on your lawn, make sure there's at least 10% fine-fescue in your seed mix.

You've got a couple of things in there. The clover will be killed by 2,4-D, Mercopop, dicamba, etc. All easy to find stuff.

The creeping Charley is a little tougher. 2,4-d, etc will knock it back, but triclopyr really works much better.

Crossbow should work great to clear them all out. Amazon sells it, and you might be able to find it locally if you look around. It's not cheap but it's a concentrate that will go a long way. You can either mix it up in a pump sprayer, or use it with a hose end sprayer like this: http://www.lowes.com/pd_549199-446-0841010_0__?k_clickID=3bde818b-af81-4895-92ab-6a8d8bf56190&store_code=1881&productId=50074025&selectedLocalStoreBeanArray=%5Bcom.lowes.commerce.storelocator.beans.LocatorStoreBean%402df12df1%5D&storeNumber=1881&kpid=50074025&cm_mmc=SCE_PLA-_-LawnGarden-_-Sprayers-_-50074025%3AORTHO&DM_PersistentCookieCreated=true&CAWELAID=&CAWELAID=320011480001691978

http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D0JHB5K/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687762&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B004TGNLJ8&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=151YDMSS7R378F7DB7F0

Yeah I'm assuming to run more than 1 sprinkler at a time, especially when daisy chained, would probably need some pressure behind it to be most effective.

There are timers with multiple outputs that could turn each sprinkler on independent of eachother, which sounds like it would be useful in a situation where your water pressure is limited.

If I had the water pressure I would daisy chain some sprinklers up, but I imagine the more you attach on a line, the less coverage each one provides. It's quite the pickle.

It may not be the most cost-effective, but if I had a large area to water and not alot of pressure, maybe 4 of those tripod things hooked up to that 4 zone timer (so only 1 was running at a time) might be the best solution.

I think if you have to walk on a seeded lawn though, it's best to do it before they sprout. So I'd try not to be in the business of moving sprinklers multiple times per day if at all possible. I've walked on newly seeded grass (after it sprouted) and I couldn't see any difference afterwards, but I imagine repeated abuse would probably beat it up a bit.

Someone else might come up with a better solution though.

I mix my own prodiamine. Honestly if you have a problem justifying the price for the pump you could easily justify it with the amount of money you save.

65$ https://www.domyown.com/prodiamine-65-wdg-generic-barricade-p-2495.html

that will cover something like ~96k sqft. For me, that will last 8 years (2x max treatment per year). The cost of granular would be 8x times that cost if you have the same size of yard as mine (~6k sqft).

So you are looking at ~65$ + 150$ for a sprayer. Or ($50*8 years) + spreader for granular. If you can stomach the upfront cost its way cheaper to spray.

If you can a battery operated sprayer thats $150 and some marking blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049I2FPM/ref=sspa_dk_detail_5?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B0049I2FPM&pd_rd_w=R6zUd&pf_rd_p=2bd81721-c115-4b8d-93a3-2ecd17466ded&pd_rd_wg=TDeOX&pf_rd_r=03Y3W99Q3QY2JD8ZWE3Z&pd_rd_r=f5e5d8b2-2c8e-11e9-9da1-2f38c3bf93b4 you can certainly see it if you mix it strong enough. But honestly you won't need to marking blue after you get a feel for spraying it.

I use this to sharpen my mower blade since I have a Dremel I bought cheap from slickdeals. : https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-A679-02-Attachment-Sharpening-Gardening/dp/B003BIFMK6/ref=asc_df_B003BIFMK6/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=242081228138&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15613152371212821961&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9060286&hvtargid=pla-439773682260&psc=1

Takes a couple of run up and down the blade to get the rust off and sharpens it clean. I also sharpen my other garden blades with this kit. It's really useful and quick and it's idiot proof with a guard at an angle, so it's pretty hard to mess up and sharpen too much. If you like to do detail works, the Dremel is a great tool for other stuff too.

The Simple Grow Solution is concentrated. The instruction tells you to put a couple of oz into a hose sprayer can and attach it to the hose and you are good to go. I bought this can: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0071D0EZK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So far, I have done the Aerating Soil Loosener on Monday, watered it, then Milo on Wednesdays(today), watered it, I'll use the Humic Fulvic Acid tomorrow. I'll post results in a week. Hopefully it works!

If you want to deal with this this year, I would act fast in terms of buying things. I think a product like crossbow would kill the majority of the weeds in this lawn. Pretty sure that is creeping Charlie which crossbow will take care of. However there is a wait period to overseed with that product so check the label. Once all that creeping Charlie dies, you'll want to overseed. I would recommend a Fescue or rye grass in your zone. KBG would be fine but you won't have time for it to establish after waiting the waiting period after using crossbow. Look for shade tolerant in grass like a fine Fescue or whatever you like.

That lime green stuff looks very much like crabgrass. Quinclorac with a surfactant mixed in is your best bet.

https://www.amazon.com/Quinclorac-Selective-Herbicide-Equivalent-quali-1014/dp/B006LAVM3W

Unfortunately, any local merchant that carried either one required a contractor license to allow me to purchase at the 'contractors' rate. Which was about 60-80% cheaper than most prices the general public would pay. I ended up getting both from Amazon here and here. I needed to make sure that the Amazon vendor was also able to ship to CA. As some fellow redditors have told me, some vendors honor this, others do not, but contacting the vendor directly also gives you a better idea of their shipping practices.

I have this product on its way. My lawn also has fungus issues I think.

Propiconazole 14.3 Select Honor Guard Broad Spectrum Fungicide by Honor Guard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015X6FIYS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_TW5lzbY66DJ69

Also, confirm that you do not have grub issues.

I don't have any one product in mind.

http://www.amazon.com/Quinclorac-75-Herbicide-Quinstar-Select/dp/B015X6FP82

As for the SA portion, you may want to look into something like atrazine

http://www.domyownpestcontrol.com/atrazine-c-114_500.html?source=search_page_category_box&gclid=CjwKEAjw8bO3BRDp0bP_vL-7_lASJACL_d6wadqgzwjU19Je1Vv-N8dOILXS9Q-D6fR6wOIqd5ByKhoCc8fw_wcB


I've never used liquid atrazine - I've used it in a fertlizer blend. Read the label carefully on this stuff. If it says avoid applications reach a certain temp - avoid it! This stuff can and will torch a yard. But, when used properly, it's a fantastic product for SA grasses

Oh awesome, This guy?

My backyard is about 2500 Sqft - and I use a Rain Bird system I got on amazon and installed myself. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K72WU3Q/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have 5 zones for the coverage- but I do 30 min in the morning at 5am- and then again at 12 for 30 min. the grass dries out before noon so I try to keep it cool during the melting heat. Ideally when it grows all back and its rolling I'll be able to cut back the watering again.

I used a tractor sprinkler for years and loved it. Lay the hose out making the path you want it to take and turn it on. You can set the gear speed for a quick or slow watering

https://www.amazon.com/Nelson-1865-Raintrain-Traveling-Sprinkler/dp/B00002N6AN

For the cornmeal it's super cheap at feed stores or even hispanic/Mexican grocery store where you can find it in bulk, 25 or 50 lb bags for almost nothing. As far as synthetics I use this. Can do a combination of both for a faster response. Do this, mow as high as your mower will let you and keep the watering frequency low as it starts to warm up and come out of dormancy and you should see those spots filling in. To speed things up you could put some plugs down in the bare areas and they should send runners out from the inside, the rest of the grass from the outside. I prefer plugs to sod because the plugs will have the deeper roots already in place and can start sending runners laterally while with sod you have to wait for the roots to grow before you start seeing spread. Here's 2 really good threads from gardenweb that I had found when I started learning about my lawn. (1, 2).

You mentioned Randy Lemmon...check out his article on removing the thatch. He mentions it would ruin your St Augustine and that if the thatch really is a problem then aeration is the way to take care of it. Focus on the Take All first though. I know the name sounds like a death sentence for your lawn but it's definitely not and completely reversible.

I swear by this thing. It is my go-to when correcting dead or patchy spots including dog urine burns. You can use it on existing grass as it will generally till the area while keeping the living grass interact.

Generally speaking this is for spot corrections and smaller areas (up to 100 sq feet.) I've used it on up to 300-500 sq feet but you'd better be prepared for a workout if you want to tackle anything at that size.

Garden Weasel Cultivator Long Handle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002ECYRH4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1ViBCb2F3NB40

I use this stuff. I purchase it a lot cheaper from tractor supply. The straw has a tack on it that activates when wet to hold it in place. It does have some added weed, but it saved an area I recently seeded from a drain spout washing the soil and seed away.

https://www.amazon.com/EZ-Straw-Seeding-Mulch-Tack/dp/B00GRSV936

Liquid Harvest Lazer Blue Concentrated Spray Pattern Indicator - 1 Quart (32 Ounces) - Perfect Weed Spray Dye, Herbicide Dye, Fertilizer Marking Dye, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049I2FPM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_ayjYmeNvLSevr

Southern Ag Surfactant for Herbicides Non-Ionic, 16oz, 1 Pint https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XDHRCE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_b8sHqQkCZXkEN

1. I bought 1 of these, one for the front and one for the back https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K72WU3Q?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
   
   
2. I graphed out my whole lawn on graph paper. I read in the instructions what the spray distance was, and tried to place the sprinklers so the whole lawn got watered. https://imgur.com/ujE4Kk5
   
   
3. The instructions had some really good tips. I mainly Googled for information. The bottom line is that you want to calibrate your system so that the areas that need the most water get the most water. My front needs more than my side, so I adjusted the nozzles and sprinkler head placement to account for that.

This one is an example:
https://www.amazon.com/Yard-Butler-Augustine-Centipede-SP-33/dp/B000CSXJR6/ref=sr_1_1?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1520886199&sr=1-1&keywords=lawn+butler+plugger

I'm going to use one this summer if/when my bermuda is strong, and fill in some spots.

All of them are generally the same, so just go for the most cost efficient for you. I went for the gallon Lazer It will last me a long time.

How do you sharpen? I use one of these and it's clearly not working

Looks like fungus. Try using this product.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015X6FIYS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AX6XB8XK2JAWT&psc=1
Or thishttps://www.amazon.com/Eagle-20-EW-Fungicide-Pint/dp/B004S6ZZFM/ref=sr_1_1?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1498485935&sr=1-1&keywords=eagle+fungicide

The guy in the video used this tool to make plugs from his own lawn. Getting healthy grass and transplanting it to the thin areas.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CSXJR6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0HbtzbQC3AT1Z

You could get a walking sprinkler. Those melnor/nelson ones like I linked might not last more than a few seasons but you can find 70 year old solid cast iron ones on craigslist that still work and national walking sprinkler still sells parts for.

I have about the same size lawn also with trees and other obstructions. I was considering putting together a temp watering system when I go to overseed in the Spring. Used the Orbit sprinkler design tool online to get an idea of placement and what it would be like. I was going to use zones with this 4 zone timer, alternating one after the other so water pressure stays up and more of the lawn gets watered without moving sprinklers around much.

Might try a traveling tractor sprinkler something like this https://www.amazon.com/Nelson-1865-Raintrain-Traveling-Sprinkler/dp/B00002N6AN

This is what I did: https://i.imgur.com/F8nTfTF.jpg

It's not perfect, but I'm just going to let it biodegrade at this point. That was after 2 weeks, it's coming up even better now.

I used some metal lawn staples (which I'll have to find and remove, but they were smaller and cheaper than the biodegradable ones) and 2 rolls of Vigoro burlap from HD. Not especially cost effective, but I didn't have time to wait for shipping, and cheaper than letting all the topsoil and seed and peat wash away again.

If I'd had more time, I might have ordered this, EZ Straw with tackifier built in: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GRSV936

or this, M-binder tackifier which you mix and spray: https://www.amazon.com/Natures-Seed-M-Binder-Tackifier-Soil-Stabilizer/dp/B01DO2VTD2/

Sorry, should have given some links

http://www.profileevs.com/products/hydraulic-mulch/seed-aide-covergrow

or

something like

https://www.amazon.com/EZ-Straw-Seeding-Mulch-Tack/dp/B00GRSV936 <- also avail at most lowes for less

I'm sure there are others, but these were easy/quick to find

fwiw.. I went through a few of them before trying the Yard Enforcer, which has worked well through 3 seasons now.

Try this! It's usually recommended on here for wild violet due to the Triclopyr in it. Note that you should also use a surfactant as well. I finally broke down and bought/used it this past week and it seems to be doing the trick. I'll definitely need to do at least one more application but it's working.

It was sprayed last June when it had already started growing. I assume that's after the seeding stage? The guy who sprayed it said he was using Cimmaron for the bahiagrass so I have to assume it was labeled for it.

Quinclorac doesn't seem to be labeled for bahiagrass - https://www.amazon.com/Quinclorac-75-Herbicide-Quinstar-Select/dp/B015X6FP82.

The other post mentioned MSM Turf. What do you think about that?

Quali-Pro Dithiopyr 40 WSB (Dimension) Herbicide https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C4Y24IG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_iYxyDbM48NYDA

I just ordered this. Here in New Mexico I need something that can act as a post emergent for the warm fall season.

One gallon (128 fl oz) of Liquid Harvest Lazer Blue is $44 @ Amazon

Have had one (and blower, trimmer) for 2 seasons. Never mowed grass before so can’t compare to other mowers. Suction improved significantly with their high-lift blade - before that it was practically useless on leaves. I’m noticing a deterioration in battery life - either due to a new blade or age.

I use a dremel and a guide.
https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-A679-02-Attachment-Sharpening-Gardening/dp/B003BIFMK6
Dont forget the balance.
https://www.amazon.com/Stens-750-042-Blade-Balancer/dp/B000VYKS1Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1526449071&sr=8-1&keywords=lawn+mower+blade+balance

This one?

EGO Power+ AB2101 21" Lawn Mower High Lift Blade for POWER+ 56V Lawn Mower Models LM2100/LM2100SP/LM2101/LM2102SP https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N39KRRM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pibcBb5Y9YVVX

2k is overkill for 400 sq foot.

1. sprinkler with timer,
   
   
2. https://www.amazon.com/Rain-Bird-32ETI-Automatic-Sprinkler/dp/B00K72WU3Q ,
   
   
3. Railbird/Hunter rotors attached to hose spikes above ground. https://www.amazon.com/Rain-Bird-32SASP-Hose-End-Drive/dp/B005MICUTO/ref=sr_1_4?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1549565650&sr=1-4&keywords=sprinkler+spike
   
   
4. https://www.amazon.com/Melnor-Mini-Turbo-Oscillating-Sprinkler-Rotation/dp/B079CZS9ZM/ref=sr_1_1?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1549565650&sr=1-1&keywords=sprinkler+spike

It's this stuff:

https://www.amazon.com/LawnStar-Grass-Paint-fl-oz/dp/B010OU2DZU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=lawnstar+grass+paint&qid=1563810136&s=gateway&sprefix=lawnstar&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

Spray tracking dye is blue.

I would buy grass dye and spray it if I were in your situation.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B010OU2DZU/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1500678691&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=grass+paint&dpPl=1&dpID=51vWqVdtyGL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/LawnStar-Grass-Paint-fl-oz/dp/B010OU2DZU/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=grass+paint&qid=1558532117&s=gateway&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/Quinclorac-75-Herbicide-Quinstar-Select/dp/B015X6FP82

Not the OP. But I take mine off the mower every few weeks, bench vise, dremel with the right bits.

https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-A679-02-Attachment-Sharpening-Gardening/dp/B003BIFMK6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525892982&sr=8-1&keywords=dremel+chainsaw&dpID=41sEgniNHZL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

https://www.amazon.com/Nelson-1865-Raintrain-Traveling-Sprinkler/dp/B00002N6AN

$500+ for that bag-a-nut, I think I'd try the $50-80 option first
https://amazon.com/dp/B009L1LJZE
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004RANC

Garden weasel

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002ECYRH4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_SGEqDbQSEH1KC

You can try this.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004S6ZZFM/ref=ya_st_dp_summary?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm on a well and have the same problem. There was a higher up-front cost but I got one of these https://www.amazon.com/Melnor-4-Zone-Digital-Water-Timer/dp/B0094KM4VK and enough hoses/sprinklers to attach to it. Now I can have up to 4 sprinklers that run one after the other to cover the areas I'm reseeding.

Thanks! Here is the system I purchased. Nothing special but hoping it can do the trick. I don't have a very large front yard. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00K72WU3Q/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

this stuff? https://www.amazon.com/Southern-Ag-Specialty-Herbicide-Triclopyr/dp/B00D0JHB5K seems like a couple years supply for me lol, will it kill chickweed?

It's this blade: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01N39KRRM
And there's literally markings on the blade that say "this side faces grass" (bonus points for that). Not a whole lot can go wrong with installing this blade.

I'm in Clayton. Had similar results to you OP. Seeded on 10/5 with GCI TTTF blend, but had bad seed to soil contact in some areas. I did a second reseed yesterday. Spread the seed with a rotary spreader, mixed it in to the dirt with a garden weasel cultivator (linked below), then covered with a thin layer of topsoil. This upcoming week looks like great weather for seed germination in our area.

Garden Weasel Cultivator - Break Up Soil, Detachable Tines, Long Handle, 54.5" Long https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002ECYRH4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_HyCTDb4VYSZJ9

Edit: KBG does terribly in our climate.

Use Quinclorac and MSO Surfactant to kill.
Use Prodiamine to prevent.

>Agrifab yard sweeper

hmmm, this? https://www.amazon.com/Agri-Fab-45-0218-26-Inch-Push-Sweeper/dp/B00004RANC/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

does it pick up nuts and 'choke cherrys'?

Yea, I lost a lot of grass because of it. There's this fungicide Amazon that seemed to help. Also, as strange as it sounds, when it pours it seems to kill the fungus. I don't know if there's a lot of acid in the rain or what but it does something to the fungus. Regular watering from my sprinklers doesn't do anything to fix it, it was something with the rain water.

I did make one big mistake. After it was all gone I used a thatch rake to get rid of the dead grass and it seemed to have brought it back. So be careful removing the thatch because it's probably still alive underneath it.

If I find anything else I'll let you know.

Stupid question... and I’m sorry, but I’ve looked online and found straight quinclorac (like this: Quinclorac 75 DF Selective Herbicide Equivalent to Drive quali-1014 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LAVM3W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.EoqDbWYH7Q2D).

Is this better than regular crabgrass weed killer that has quinclorac in it? Which should I be using?

Phase 1 and 2 was basically just weed control. I needed to get ahead of the game in that regard and I used the following product with no chemicals. Was also watering every week. I was out there every weekend manually picking weeds before they had a chance to drop seeds. I still get a weed here and there every now and then, but it's no where near as bad.

https://www.amazon.com/Fiskars-70606935J-Softouch-Weeder/dp/B003TJ9G40/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1465923929&sr=8-2&keywords=weed+picker

Once I noticed a little green starting to come in. I went on a monthly fertilizer schedule that's high in nitrogen. Did a round of pre-emergent and once more green started to come in I started using 24d. Mowing once a week...now 2x a week to keep up. Still water 1" week. I ditched the oscillating sprinkler in the first picture and got one very similar to the one below:

https://www.amazon.com/Metal-Pulsating-Sprinkler-Step-Spike/dp/B00004SE08/ref=sr_1_38?ie=UTF8&qid=1465924277&sr=8-38&keywords=sprinkler