(Part 3) Top products from r/lawncare

I'm going to take a stab at this.

First off, you need to determine what shape your grass is in exactly (it also helps to determine what kind of grass it is). If your grass is yellow but still alive (i.e. poor watering), that's different than if your grass is actually dead.

Assuming your grass is alive, it's important for you to start watering to give the grass some life (no pun intended). Water infrequently (2x/week?) and deeply. This encourages the grass to grow deep roots and will give it strength to ride out droughts/pests/weeds/etc.

You can certainly go about fertilizing. The Scotts website is a halfway decent starting place. University turf management program web pages are also good and sometimes have region-specific calculators to help you determine the optimal times to apply what needs to be applied.

The next thing I'd do is go rent a core aerator. Few things help out a lawn more than this. It will help break up the soil and will encourage grass growth.

As you mow, be sure to use the highest setting. Try to avoid cutting more than 1/3 of the grass at anytime. If your grass is actively growing, you may need to cut more than once a week. Don't bag the clippings - just use a mulching blade.

You can overseed in the fall, but I'd honestly recommend waiting a year to see what you've already accomplished. You don't need to overseed a healthy lawn - and overseeding an unhealthy lawn won't get you anywhere.

Finally, the weeds: There's a "weed patch," and then there's just having a "couple weeds." You'll need chemicals to treat a weed patch - so something like a "weed 'n feed" this May will work for you. Follow the directions closely to ensure that you're applying the right amount, and pay attention to any special instructions i.e. apply to wet grass. Some combo fertilizer/weed killers work better when watered in.

If you have just a few weeds (i.e. next year, after you've put work in this year), it's up to you how diligent you want to be when it comes to killing them. My grass is so thick and strong that very few weeds can survive - and I'm surrounded on 5 sides by my neighborhood's dandelion nurseries. If a weed is really bothering me I'll go out and cut it out (be sure to get the roots), but that's pretty rare.

So, lots to read here but hopefully it's helpful. I'd add this - Scotts Lawns: Your guide to a beautiful lawn was a life saver for me. They don't publish new ones but lawn "technology" hasn't changed in a while. This book will help you immensely and is relatively cheap.

Good luck!

Okay so. Here's what I'm thinking. I only saw the picture you posted, so it looks like you have 1,000 square feet or less, yes? That makes it kinda easy.

First we'll need to know which zone you're in. That will help pick your grass type. It looks like you have cool season grasses, which means you'll be choosing among various fescues, Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, etc. That's kind of up to you. Do a little googling and see what you come up with.

Second, you have a lot of weeds in there. It looks like you have either poa annua (annual bluegrass) or poa trivialis (Hell on Earth), or possibly both mixed in there. Those are seriously not good. Not only do you have a lot of weeds, it looks like you might have a significant mix of grass types, and I'm not positive that it's worth saving. Here's what I would do. Keep in mind that this might be overkill for you.

From now until July:

• Get a soil test. Your local agricultural or state university will probably have a soil test program. This will help you figure out how best to treat your soil with fertilizer when it comes time to grow real grass. (~$30)
  
• Kill off basic broadleaf weeds with a 2,4-D product before they can drop seeds and make next year worse. This one is probably one of the easiest. Your choice. (~$10)
  
• If you're feeling like you want to care for your soil, throw down some Milorganite. Not exactly necessary at this time cause we don't know what your soil test will come back with. (~$14)
  
  Sometime in July:
  
  
• Spray a glyphosate product to kill everything. I use this one, but you can also use RoundUp from any hardware or big box store. The active ingredient is the same. (~$30)
  
• It will take ~2 weeks to see results from the glyphosate. At roughly the 14 day mark, hit everything else that's green with another application.
  
• Optional but recommended: level out your soil and make sure it's flat, to help with a uniform look.
  
• Not recommended: tilling. It helps stir up weed seeds and encourages weed growth at the same time that you're trying to plant grass seed.
  
  Mid/late August:
  
  
• Seed with your given grass type. Do this at least 7 days after your last glyphosate application, 14 days afterwards is preferable. I suggest seed as opposed to sod because it's cheaper. Seeding is kinda its own post because you may need to cover with topsoil, flatten ground, irrigate, yadda yadda yadda. We can talk more about that when the time comes. ($10-$100)
  
• Add a starter fertilizer with your seed. Whichever fert you choose will be based off of the results of your soil test. ($10-$30)
  
  After a couple months, you should have a pretty healthy crop of baby grass, and then it will go dormant for the winter. Not a problem. Once spring hits, start following this lawn care schedule from the Lawn Care Nut. Most of that guy's videos are gold, and I strongly recommend that you watch them.
  
  It will take a little time and more than a fair amount of patience, but I'm pretty sure all of that will (at least for the first year) come in under budget, and it will end up with the results that you want. Especially in the long run.
  
  EDIT(s): Forgot to mention a couple things. I had a little more whiskey than I thought.
  
  Geographical zone will be in the sidebar.
  
  Also go with a pre-emergent in the spring if you aren't adding seed. The most popular 3 brand names are Barricade, Dimension, and Tenacity. Their generic names are prodiamine, dithiopyr, and...tenacity? Honestly I'm not sure if there's a generic for Tenacity cause it's not legally usable in my state. But seriously a pre-emergent will cut your weed problems down by SO MUCH.
  
  Estimated cost for the first year is $214 (minus water, topsoil/peat moss, and possibly tools such as a hand pump sprayer and a broadcast spreader) at the most, and $114 at the low end.

Haha sorry!

So you do have grass there. It's dormant from the cold. Now is the time to prepare it for the transition to summer. The best offense against the weeds that come with summer is a good defense. A pre-emergent, like the name suggests, stops weeds before they have time to emerge/germinate. A weed control, also known as a post-emergent, is used to control the weeds that are currently visible.

http://www.imageforweeds.com/St-Augustine/index.html

The active ingredient in this product is Atrazine (always check the package label to make sure Atrazine is the listed active. Image for nuts edge is imazaquin which is not what you're looking for). It is a dual purpose herbicide that prevents and controls weeds to come and those visible. You can purchase it in a garden hose attachment form which makes application easy.

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Trba9R9oU78

This is a pretty good tutorial. He's spraying ppre emergent but you can substitute any herbicide or pesticide. Measurements are key to a successful application. Measure the area of your backyard. If you have a 4,000 soft back yard, and the product calls for 1oz/1000 sqft, then you know to mix and apply for 4oz of material. Sometimes you'll see 16oz/acre ~ 16oz/44,000sqft ~ .4oz/1000sqft ~ 1.6oz/4,000sqft.

While Atrazine does a good job, it does not do a great job, and it is not your only option. Were it my lawn, I would use a half rate of Atrazine + a regular St Augustine rate of speed zone southern.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006LBBHE0

The Speedzone will catch more weeds that Atrazine will leave behind. And for a pre-emergent, I would use Barricade ( Prodiamine).

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004GTQBEK/ref=pd_aw_sbs_lg_1

You can purchase it in WDG form (water dispensable granules) which allows you to dissolve it in water, mix, and spray it, OR you can apply it as granular with a spreader. You can buy it for a very high prices in flowable liquid form as well. Anytime you can spray pre-emergent either with WDG or flow able form, you will get consistently better results than granular.

One application of these three products will have you in the right direction. Mid May I would fertilize with a slow release fertilizer with iron (4.0% or higher iron content. Check the bag for percentages). You're safe to use a higher nitrogen blend like a 24-4-8 or a 34-0-4. The important aspects will be the iron and the slow release. You want to apply this at 3-4lbs/1000sqft.

Let me know if you have anymore questions. By the way repeat the pre-emergent process come September. You'll need to do pre-emergent applications every fall and spring otherwise, see original lawn photos.

At .3 acres, I would just aerate the heck out of it. This will allow you to get the soil nice and open for air movement, and moisture penetration. At least two passes perpendicular to each other (if possible), and another pass if you have the time/energy.

Using a seed spreader is fine for overseeding. A starter fertilizer is not a bad idea, but please don't overdo it...follow the application rate specified on the bag.

Keep that ground damp, but not soaked. Ideally, you will water a couple to times per day, but avoid nighttime watering as cool nights + moisture promotes fungal issues.

Don't overthink this project. It may take some time to get the soil conditions perfect. Weed and feed should be done after the seed has completely germinated and grass blades are somewhat mature. How long depends on growing conditions. If you weed and feed too early, you can stress the lawn.

This book is a great reference guide for those new to lawns. I highly recommend - it has a yearly calendar for each type of turf, with guides on when to aerate, overseed, fertilize, etc.

Good luck!

EDIT TO ADD: Before you go out and buy that book...let me double check to make sure that is the correct text. The calendar feature is key, and I want to make certain it is the book. I will check when I get home tonight and follow up with you.

I use this one to satisfactory effect as well, though it may require a little more effort. But that's really as simple as it is. Pull them up, and they don't reproduce. I can't always get right to them when I see them, but I do keep an eye out for the flowers and pinch them off before they go to seed. Then I come back around and pop them out by the deep root when I get a chance. I've only been in this house a year and a half. Pulled a lot of dandelions last year. It's early, but I've seen very few this time around.

And because you can't avoid the ones that float in on the breeze from your neighbors, a good regimen of corn gluten meal or something else to prevent germination will help out over time. Keep your turf and its soil strong, and prevent most of the seeds from sprouting, and you'll be in good shape within a couple of years.

The Acclaim Extra does more of the work in suppressing Bermuda. The Turflon Ester helps some, but is there mostly to lessen the impact of the AE on the Fescue. You need the AE. TE will work on its own if you have a little sprout pop up here and there, but it won't dent it long term on what you have going on.

I got a pint of AE each year. I use seedworldusa.com and coupon code seed4life for 10% off. They're the cheapest I've found: https://www.seedworldusa.com/products/acclaim-extra-herbicide-1-pint

Triclopyr: https://www.seedworldusa.com/products/triclopyr-4-herbicide-1-gallon (Triclopyr is the active ingredient in Turflon Ester. It's the exact same stuff, they just haven't paid for the labeling to approve it for use on ornamental lawns. You aren't really supposed to buy it this way, but it's far cheaper and I do it. Triclopyr is also a great broadleaf herbicide so you can use it other times of year to knock out most weeds.)

The other stuff I buy by the gallon, as eventually it gets used, it's far, far cheaper, and I have extra to help friends with when they have issues pop up.

I used Lazer Blue Marker from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Liquid-Harvest-Concentrated-Pattern-Indicator/dp/B0049I9OBA

Southern Ag Surfactant: https://www.amazon.com/Southern-Ag-Surfactant-Herbicides-Non-Ionic/dp/B00553EREC

That's the plan that worked for me.

No, you need to use special blue indicator dye. Here is a link to what I use. I use about a quarter of a cup or less per 2 gallons and can see the dye great. It's usually gone by the next day. Customers don't love it, but I can usually make them understand that the benefits are worth it. You'll save so much spray and feel so much more confident that you got it all.

I mix my own prodiamine. Honestly if you have a problem justifying the price for the pump you could easily justify it with the amount of money you save.

65$ https://www.domyown.com/prodiamine-65-wdg-generic-barricade-p-2495.html

that will cover something like ~96k sqft. For me, that will last 8 years (2x max treatment per year). The cost of granular would be 8x times that cost if you have the same size of yard as mine (~6k sqft).

So you are looking at ~65$ + 150$ for a sprayer. Or ($50*8 years) + spreader for granular. If you can stomach the upfront cost its way cheaper to spray.

If you can a battery operated sprayer thats $150 and some marking blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049I2FPM/ref=sspa_dk_detail_5?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B0049I2FPM&pd_rd_w=R6zUd&pf_rd_p=2bd81721-c115-4b8d-93a3-2ecd17466ded&pd_rd_wg=TDeOX&pf_rd_r=03Y3W99Q3QY2JD8ZWE3Z&pd_rd_r=f5e5d8b2-2c8e-11e9-9da1-2f38c3bf93b4 you can certainly see it if you mix it strong enough. But honestly you won't need to marking blue after you get a feel for spraying it.

1. Generally, no. Blanket applications can often miss areas. Its recommended that you spot spray with a 24D product, this is safe for grass but kills most broadleafs weeds. I like to do one application, wait three weeks and see if anything else has germinated. Usually just doing it twice in the right time period is good enough for the rest of the season. If you don't have a spray tank to mix concentrate in (cheapest/cost effective) then I would use something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Ortho-Crabgrass-Ready-Spray-Attachment-32-Ounce/dp/B005LD2GNK/
   
   
2. Take care of the weeds and throw down a balanced starter fertilizer. If you want to green up faster put down 'ironite' with the fertilizer. Don't spill on concrete, it will stain. Summer is here, I don't know how hot it is in NC yet but make sure you're lawn is receiving enough water for a fertilizer application.

Aeration has it uses like on a golf courses or you drive heavy equipment across your yard. Normal use yards don't get compacted enough to warrant the use. I use a soil conditioner and it really helps.

Pre emergent in the spring can't use it now cause it would block your grass seed from growing. You can use https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/cr/B005DUTNF0/ref=mw_dp_cr
Pre and post seed but read the directions 3 times to make sure you apply it correctly. It will cause your grass to whiten but it will come back. It's a little pricey but it will knock out a lot of weeds.

In the spring use something like this
https://www.amazon.com/Dimension-2EW-Dithiopyr-Pre-Emergent-Herbicide/dp/B0056650Z8
Or anything with dimension in it.

I bought these two items in 2016 and still have plenty of herbicide 2 years later, and the sprayer works great -
Herbicide w/ 2,4-D

1 gallon sprayer

Spot spray the rest of this season - aerate and overseed in the fall - lay pre-emergent before winter, and pre-emergent in April next year. Should help a ton with the weeds and fill your spots.

Yes, marking dye can be added to fertilizer to make it easier to see where it's been applied. Also can apply straight dye to the lawn, to give a green look during dormancy.

Your main problem is capacity. You could get an 40lb earthway, but you'll only be upgrading in the future.

Get the Agri-fab 130lb, https://www.amazon.com/Agri-Fab-45-0462-Push-Broadcast-Spreader/dp/B002U0KDH8. It should hold a full bag of fertilizer and then some. Wheels are smooth. Just be careful with the instructions, lay out every piece clearly and be sure each step is correctly done. Get a torque wrench that can reach in those spots. Put the tire caps last since once those friction caps go on, it'll be tough getting them off.

If you lift up the surrounding areas do you find grubs? How many per square ft? Grubex works great, but you are late... really late. Grubex is a preventative, not a curative product you are going to have to go with something like Merit. If your only sign of grub problems are holes, treating the yard might not resolve it as the creature doing the digging might be after something else entirely.

Have you looked at motion activated sprinklers?

https://www.amazon.com/Orbit-62100-Activated-Sprinkler-Detection/dp/B009F1R0GC

Orbit 1/2" Zinc Flow-Thru Spike Base https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004S24W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_w.q8AbC3Q8VCX

You're welcome.
I put hunter sprinkler 4" pop up bodies with MP rotator heads, on these spikes, and connected with garden hoses. Works very well and allows flexibility to reposition as needed, and no need to dig.

Remember to use thread seal tape on every connection.

Oh awesome, This guy?

This will knock it out in about 3 days. Make sure you use a good surfactant that contains methylated seed oil.

https://www.amazon.com/Drive-XLR8-Herbicide-Gallon-CRABGRASS/dp/B0058W42QS

I swear by this thing. It is my go-to when correcting dead or patchy spots including dog urine burns. You can use it on existing grass as it will generally till the area while keeping the living grass interact.

Generally speaking this is for spot corrections and smaller areas (up to 100 sq feet.) I've used it on up to 300-500 sq feet but you'd better be prepared for a workout if you want to tackle anything at that size.

Garden Weasel Cultivator Long Handle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002ECYRH4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1ViBCb2F3NB40

This might not be what you’re looking for, but these have been useful for me:


https://www.amazon.com/Orbit-Zinc-Flow-Thru-Spike-Base/dp/B00004S24W

I use this stuff. I purchase it a lot cheaper from tractor supply. The straw has a tack on it that activates when wet to hold it in place. It does have some added weed, but it saved an area I recently seeded from a drain spout washing the soil and seed away.

https://www.amazon.com/EZ-Straw-Seeding-Mulch-Tack/dp/B00GRSV936

Liquid Harvest Lazer Blue Concentrated Spray Pattern Indicator - 1 Quart (32 Ounces) - Perfect Weed Spray Dye, Herbicide Dye, Fertilizer Marking Dye, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049I2FPM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_ayjYmeNvLSevr

Southern Ag Surfactant for Herbicides Non-Ionic, 16oz, 1 Pint https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XDHRCE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_b8sHqQkCZXkEN

I use this one... https://www.amazon.com/Liquid-Harvest-Concentrated-Pattern-Indicator/dp/B0049I2FPM/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=laser+marking+dye&qid=1566326137&s=gateway&sr=8-5

I mean, $25 isn't far off from $30, but SO little goes a long way for 32oz. I feel like I use 1/100th of the bottle for for a 4 gal tank.

Sedgehammer is the way to go. You can get a 2-pack on Amazon for $17.50 and I recommend going that route because it is likely you will need a follow-up application: https://www.amazon.com/Sedgehammer-Plus-Herbicide-Grams-Packs/dp/B007PHNUOE

Edit: I'm not sure why I was downvoted but if it was due to the ref URL I don't know what the ref was for. I just searched for the product on Amazon and then copied the URL from my address bar. I didn't get anything out of anyone's use of that URL.

Just comparing off of Amazon.

​

Meso 4 SC:

https://www.amazon.com/Primesource-Meso-4-SC-Select/dp/B07L3S9FKX/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=meso+for+sc&qid=1568898579&s=gateway&sr=8-1

$60.78/8oz

Tenacity:

https://www.amazon.com/Tenacity-Herbicide/dp/B0060N8TG8/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=tenacity&qid=1568897145&s=gateway&sr=8-7

$114.78/8oz

Someone on here was saying Drive XLR8 was awesome on crabgrass. I just got some, but haven't tried it out yet.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0058W42QS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Get yourself a high concentrate 24D spray something like this

and overseed in the fall to get your root system thicker.

I am in the same part of the state dealing with similar-looking grassy weeds, but a few different kinds. My (yet untested) plan is to hit it with Drive, which can also be purchased as the generic quinclorac.

https://www.amazon.com/Drive-Herbicide-Gallon-KILLS-CRABGRASS/dp/B0058W42QS

http://www.domyownpestcontrol.com/quinkill-max-crabgrass-and-weed-killer-p-3019.html

Note: not safe for St Augustine grass in case you have any under shade trees like I do.

This is what I did: https://i.imgur.com/F8nTfTF.jpg

It's not perfect, but I'm just going to let it biodegrade at this point. That was after 2 weeks, it's coming up even better now.

I used some metal lawn staples (which I'll have to find and remove, but they were smaller and cheaper than the biodegradable ones) and 2 rolls of Vigoro burlap from HD. Not especially cost effective, but I didn't have time to wait for shipping, and cheaper than letting all the topsoil and seed and peat wash away again.

If I'd had more time, I might have ordered this, EZ Straw with tackifier built in: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GRSV936

or this, M-binder tackifier which you mix and spray: https://www.amazon.com/Natures-Seed-M-Binder-Tackifier-Soil-Stabilizer/dp/B01DO2VTD2/

It has been called a final solution by some

Amazon

Sorry, should have given some links

http://www.profileevs.com/products/hydraulic-mulch/seed-aide-covergrow

or

something like

https://www.amazon.com/EZ-Straw-Seeding-Mulch-Tack/dp/B00GRSV936 <- also avail at most lowes for less

I'm sure there are others, but these were easy/quick to find

fwiw.. I went through a few of them before trying the Yard Enforcer, which has worked well through 3 seasons now.

Quali-Pro Dithiopyr 40 WSB (Dimension) Herbicide https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C4Y24IG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_iYxyDbM48NYDA

I just ordered this. Here in New Mexico I need something that can act as a post emergent for the warm fall season.

Here are the products I’m using:

2-4D with Triclopyr note : this was cheaper at my local fleet & farm supply store.

surfactant I did buy this off of amazon

They do have a version that’s an attachment for a tractor, but I have the push broadcast spreader. This is what I have:

Agri-Fab 45-0462 Push Broadcast Spreader https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002U0KDH8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TpBTCb23WZZHP

You need water. Don't bother seeding if you aren't going to water it. You can setup hoses with sprinkler spikes and rotors and chain them together. Home Depot / Ace Hardware has the parts but for reference:

Orbit 1/2" Zinc Flow-Thru Spike Base https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004S24W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OTDyDbR33GS4V

Rain Bird Rotor Heads 5000 Rotor Sprinkler Heads. 4-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MBNRXBI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FVDyDbSFVDZMY

10 Pack - Orbit 1/2 Inch x 6 Inch Poly Cut-Off Sprinkler Riser https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LORJR20/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_YWDyDbJ5FFCPX

Garden weasel

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002ECYRH4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_SGEqDbQSEH1KC

Thoughts?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0056QEA36/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza

Would this work? I've seen forum posts recommending it. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0060N8TG8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1AJDJ0H6GF3H&psc=1

I bought this concentrate so I think I can mix to my need. I was thinking 2oz/gal?

Not much love on this question. I think I’m going with this one - Agri-Fab 45-0462 Push Broadcast Spreader https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002U0KDH8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_YcWMBbGF17CBR


How do you water your 50k lawn?

I'm in Clayton. Had similar results to you OP. Seeded on 10/5 with GCI TTTF blend, but had bad seed to soil contact in some areas. I did a second reseed yesterday. Spread the seed with a rotary spreader, mixed it in to the dirt with a garden weasel cultivator (linked below), then covered with a thin layer of topsoil. This upcoming week looks like great weather for seed germination in our area.

Garden Weasel Cultivator - Break Up Soil, Detachable Tines, Long Handle, 54.5" Long https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002ECYRH4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_HyCTDb4VYSZJ9

Edit: KBG does terribly in our climate.

So get something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Ortho-Crabgrass-Ready-Spray-Attachment-32-Ounce/dp/B005LD2GNK/ref=pd_sim_86_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=41ZG50R2lkL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR83%2C160_&psc=1&refRID=N9KZPVNAYVYKZBS1ZSEK

And start killing them now and wait til fall to reseed? This is my 1st time owning a home and 1st time having to worry about a lawn so I honestly not sure of what to do other than some information I researched online.

Those 2-3x D cell battery shrieking stakes you bury in the lawn worked for me to get rid of a real fucking bastard or two. Back to my neighbors yard. Next stop I'm going to flood the tunnels with car exhaust a la https://www.amazon.com/Underground-Exterminator-Kills-Gophers-Groundhogs/dp/B0000BYDPE

Phase 1 and 2 was basically just weed control. I needed to get ahead of the game in that regard and I used the following product with no chemicals. Was also watering every week. I was out there every weekend manually picking weeds before they had a chance to drop seeds. I still get a weed here and there every now and then, but it's no where near as bad.

https://www.amazon.com/Fiskars-70606935J-Softouch-Weeder/dp/B003TJ9G40/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1465923929&sr=8-2&keywords=weed+picker

Once I noticed a little green starting to come in. I went on a monthly fertilizer schedule that's high in nitrogen. Did a round of pre-emergent and once more green started to come in I started using 24d. Mowing once a week...now 2x a week to keep up. Still water 1" week. I ditched the oscillating sprinkler in the first picture and got one very similar to the one below:

https://www.amazon.com/Metal-Pulsating-Sprinkler-Step-Spike/dp/B00004SE08/ref=sr_1_38?ie=UTF8&qid=1465924277&sr=8-38&keywords=sprinkler