(Part 2) Top products from r/olkb

You can use either type of switch.

That being said, I'd recommend that you use plate-mount switches. Many people do use PCB-mount switches, but they're not really necessary since the switches fit quite snugly into the plate, and the plate is made of beefy stainless steel. Besides, if you use the PCB-mount switches, you'll have a bugger of a time getting them to sit flush on the PCB since those leg holes are smaller than the legs themselves.

One thing to note: if you've bought Zealios for your planck, I highly recommend clipping those legs for best results. You can use a pair of flush cutters to clip those things off quite nicely. (This is what I use on my Zealios.)

EDIT: Re-read your question. Hope this is a better answer.

FWIW, I use this thing to reset Pro Micros.

https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-7A-SA-Stainless-Non-Magnetic-Heavy-Duty/dp/B00FZPFF96?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

It's not what bought it for, but works perfectly for shorting RST and GND on Pro Micros.

It's about 5x7 and I just bought one for fun. For anyone else interested: https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Wireless-Keyboard-iPhone-Computers/dp/B0044IGBOI

Also, you can try Kynar wire 30 AWG. It works great. Optional, but well worth it, is 10mm x 1mm White Double Sided Self Adhesive Sponge Foam Tape. That will insulate the strip from the PCB. As long as it 10mm it will work. You can search for other deals if you want.

That looks like a lot of solder from the picture. Maybe try ordering one of these, I found it to work better than a solder sucker...

Tenma 21-8240 Vacuum Desoldering Iron
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008DJRYIG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_aegZzb1ZWPPJQ

I get these, but there are better ones! Namely anything with 3M on them.

I used a pair of cutters from this amazon link.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FZPDG1K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
They work great for flush trimming stuff.
I think I saw some of those at home depot last week if you are in the US and are near one of those...

I'm eyeing this thing to transport mine once it's finished: https://www.amazon.com/Carrying-Customizable-Interior-Session-Silver/dp/B00KBKHYKS

Saw it recommended for an ergodox/redox and it looks pretty snazzy. https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/7uymgb/photos_redox_project_update/

First off, credit for this idea goes to /u/jaredj who mentioned using one of these in his build log here.

I ordered one on Amazon to try it out, and it arrived today so I thought I'd share a little demo of how well this thing works. If you've done any handwired builds, I think you'll immediately be sold on it.

Also, I trimmed off a bit of the connected diode leg before wrapping it, but you could leave it the full length if needed. I tested it that way, too.

NOT making a cent from this, just a link to the product so people can check it out.

As /u/Harakou commented, make sure to have desoldering materials. But for desoldering several switches at a time, I had trouble making progress with a regular solder sucker (the braid is very useful for small scale rework). So I bought a desoldering iron for several Planck and Ergodox rebuilds.

And to add to /u/deaconblue42 , a flux pen helped me a lot whenever I struggled to get good wetting action (watch the videos, it's a thing).

I have found the solder wick to still be the best method for smaller holes (even switch holes for that matter). I initially tried solder suckers, even electric ones, and it was harder on smaller holes.

What brand is your solder wick? It could be that its not properly fluxed in which case you can buy flux and dip it in. It could also be oxidising if you left the copper bit out for too long.

I personally use MG Chemicals #4, I tried using a different brand and the difference was drastic, it did not absorb the solder at all.

yeah the one i have isn't so good. So i'm thinking of getting this guy

Helping hands: http://www.amazon.com/ProsKit-900-015-Helping-Hands-Soldering/dp/B002PIA6Z4

Complete newb here

I have a Planck EZ. My understanding is that you still to flash the QMK firmware in this manner in order to achieve iOS compatibility.

My question is purely about cables.... I bought this on the off chance that it just worked out of the box with iOS. It obviously does not. Upon further research, I'm more worried about that I'm not getting a warning about power draw. Is this cable just wrong?

This and this. Turns out the standoffs were a 50pc pack, but all the same more than the 16 I needed.

These work really well. They are a little bit bigger than the ones that come stock though.

The rubber feet are from 3m. I believe this is it. Sorry for the formating, on mobile.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NG60SW/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1482437733&sr=8-3&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=3m+rubber+pads

Use a solder sucker or some desoldering wick to remove the excess solder that is touching the logo.

Something like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00424S2C8

Ok i downloaded the repo, what next? The PCB light does not come on when i plug it in. Also because i do not have any mini USB cables lying around, i have a mini USB to micro USB adapter, not sure if that changes anything tho.

I did it with my MD Preonic, both switches and LEDs. I used the gold plated 8134-HC-8P2 and 8134-HC-5P2. They're available in various MK stores as well as component wholesalers like DigiKey.

The fit wasn't perfect, with both switches and LEDs they were a bit loose. My process was to tin each hole thoroughly, then use a solder sucker to clear the hole, leaving a thin layer of solder to make the fit tighter. Then I went through and installed the holtites, using a hot soldering iron to press them in while swiveling it back and forth. The iron was hot, but not super hot, so the solder wouldn't melt quickly. Also the iron itself should be as "dry" as possible, with no excess solder on the tip. You can use metal mesh cleaning clumps to do that, like this (just make sure to re-tin the tip regularly to avoid damaging it). Both of those are because if too much solder melts and wicks into the holtite, you've got a ruined holtite. Even if you use a solder sucker to clear the hole, the lower "prongs" of the holtite will be stuck together, so it will be difficult to impossible to get a wire through it.

Unfortunately, this means it's also pretty much impossible to secure the holtite in place by soldering it, because again the solder will wick inside. This meant that with some of my installations the holtite wasn't held firmly in place and came out along with the wire. Re-tinning the hole and reinstalling the holtite helped most of those cases, though I had to do it a few times for some.

I'd also suggest using a stiff wire of similar thickness to the led legs (even one of those will work) to "pre drill" the LED holtites after they're installed. Some of them will be fairly stiff, and using a pair of pliers to force a short length into the hole will make it easier to fit the LEDs in without bending the legs. Doing the same for the switches with a spare switch is also a good idea (just a warning - a couple of the switch holtites were so stiff they forced the switch leg to come loose, so installing the switch pushed the leg back into the switch housing. The leg can be pulled back into place with pliers, but the leg is loose after that and will be dislodged if you try to use it with holtites. The switch should still work for soldered boards or switch testers though.) This pre-drilling will loosen the holtites, and also help you catch some of the looser ones that come out when you extract the pre-drill wire.

Anyway, I consider the end result a success. I just started installing holtites on an EOTW preonic with the same process. For the MD board, I've already swapped switches once (which also meant swapping LEDs). At that time there were three LED holtites that came loose and had to be reinstalled. Still less work than desoldering and resoldering everything, and less risk to the board as well.