(Part 2) Top products from r/pcgamingtechsupport

Mini PCI is a standard that some motherboards have (Looks like this: http://psg.i.lithium.com/t5/image/serverpage/image-id/72899iDB437F35348C63E3?v=v2), a lot of laptops use it as a standard for plugging in wi-fi cards since normal PCI would not fit at all with any laptop.


Here is the thing with Mini PCI-E cards, some laptops allow you to swap it out easily while others require some disassembly. I looked up the HP ENVY 17 and if it is the same or similar model to this video (https://youtu.be/W5nAvEmTy-w), it should be a easy swap. You will need to replace the part that is to the left of the RAM. It is pretty simple to swap it out. First, take a phillips screwdriver and unscrew the 1 or 2 screws holding it in place, it will pop up on its own usually. Take the replacement one and pop it in, lay it flush with the screw hole and screw it back in. Make a note of the wire location before starting this unless the instructions note to plug it in differently (usually pretty standard). You might need to download additional drivers and uninstall the old one from device manager, just follow the instructions it comes with and it should lead you where you need to go.


Secondly, it looks like it is using a half height PCI-E card. You will need to get something like this if you want to upgrade: https://www.amazon.com/Intel-3160-HMWG-R-Wireless-Bluetooth-Supports/dp/B00MY9EVHI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1484239061&sr=8-3&keywords=mini+pci. Half height is usually what most laptops I have worked on use and from the look of it the ENVY uses it as well.


Hope that helps. If you have any other questions, feel free to ask.

Did you install the drivers for your controller? If you did and its still not working, get a wired Microsoft Xbox 360 controller or wired Microsoft Xbox 1 controller. You can see it's much cheaper to get the wired 360 controller. If you absolutely want a wireless controller, you could get either the wireless Xbox 360 controller and the Windows Xbox 360 adapter or wireless Xbox 1 controller with Windows adapter (old version) or wireless Xbox 1 controller with Windows adapter (new version). Since they're made by Microsoft, they work fine with Windows. Logitech also makes a few good controllers, the wired Logitech Gamepad F310 and the wireless Logitech Gamepad F710. I personally have a wired Microsoft 360 controller and a wireless Logitech F710 and from my experience, the official Microsoft controllers work best with games. I hope that helps.

Hi,
from your gigabyte's website, the ex58-extreme supports:

"Supports 3 channel DDR3 2100+ memory"

i guess that's up to 2100MHz

more answers here on this forum post:

http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum/257541-30-ddr3-2100-1333

yes if you go over the max supported speed your stick will run to the max of your motherboard

also your motherboard is 3 channel, just buy 3 sticks of the same model. As RAM speeds have a very small impact on performance i'd just find a nice set of ram modules rated at 1600MHz and call it a day.

EDIT: some people report problem with high voltage modules an old school i7 processors, try to find a nice bundle with stick around 1.5V. Look for kits of 6 or 12 gigabytes, here are some examples

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-3x2GB-12800-Desktop-Memory/dp/B002LZ1FPG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496950174&sr=8-1&keywords=ddr3+6gb

https://www.amazon.com/G-SKILL-PC3-12800-1600MHz-9-9-9-24-F3-12800CL9T-12GBRL/dp/B0044YG27I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1496950199&sr=8-2&keywords=ddr3+12gb

I have this cooler and its been working great for my 6700k.

While gaming (warframe max settings + a second monitor) my temp is 45C

Edit: If your case has room for it, I would recommend this one. It looks cool, makes no noise (gpu fans are louder) and it keeps the temps cool. The only issue I had with it was I had to bend it slightly so it would clear the top-most heatsink on my motherboard, which is slightly larger than normal I think.

Okay, so this is what I would do for as little money as possible:

Buy this used for $17: https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Q6600-Quad-Core-Processor-Cache/dp/B000LRMR26/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465718573&sr=8-1&keywords=q6600

Buy some cooling compound: https://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Silver-AS5-3-5G-Thermal-Paste/dp/B000OGX5AM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1465722395&sr=8-2&keywords=cooling+compound

Buy this memory new: https://www.amazon.com/Komputerbay-800MHz-PC2-6300-PC2-6400-Desktop/dp/B004LT6O56/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1465718856&sr=1-2&keywords=ddr2&refinements=p_n_feature_four_browse-bin%3A14329121

Buy this power supply from EVGA b-stock: http://www.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=100-W1-0430-RX

Buy this GPU from EVGA b-stock: http://www.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=02G-P4-3757-RX

You'll get performance around this level, maybe a little less: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cF06NrSIHNQ

Other people are gonna try to tell you you need to just toss everything you have and buy a whole new rig. Well, you said you wanted to play Overwatch, which is really an easy game to run. You definitely don't need to break the bank right away.

You could use a splitter but that does not account for the internals of your headsets being quite different to the amplifier built in to your speakers. Usually this causes volume imbalance, which you could probably fix a bit with the volume knob on your speakers but it's not the best. Speakers with a headphone connector would be the best for that part but that won't fix the microphone part.

The StarTech splitter that was linked only works for devices with a TRRS socket (normally you only have TRS, so one Ring in the middle, RR has double rings).

If you want to be sure that won't break shit you'd need to post the motherboard/audiodevice/case -model depending on where this singular output is on your PC. That way we could try to see if it has a TRRS connector instead of just TRS.

You could also get a DAC (Digital Audio Converter) which would take up an USB port. Most have both audio out and microphone in. Unfortunately this installs as a separate 'sound card' and different audio device so you'd need to set up preferences for 'playback' and 'communications'.

Also some programs (even Skype goddammit) ignore the OS settings for which audio device is active/preferred so it would require some tinkering from time to time when you get a DAC.

Edit: example of a DAC this one was linked from the StarTech splitter as a related product. I can't vouch for this particular product etc. or that is even a good price. Just so you can see what it would look like.

No, don't use contact cleaner!

You can get isopropyle alcohol on Amazon pretty cheap. A 500ml bottle for £6 or 1 litre for £7 both with free delivery.

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-ProSAFE-Gigabit-Desktop-GS108-400NAS/dp/B0000BVYT3?th=1

This is a nice cheap switch. It requires no setup, you simply plug all three computers into it and plug in the power supply for the switch.

Nice and easy :D

Sugru or moldable plastic. Save what you don't use for another fix.

So I’ve got it booted up with one stick of RAM and I’ve ordered a thermal paste which arrives on Friday.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B004D3TUG0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_2XNLAbJAWFGR9

That’s the paste I went for.

I’ll quickly do another bench mark to see if the RAM is improved

Are you talking about the Raven Soft title? (Amazon links: Orig / Gold ed) {no endorsement of seller(s) or product(s) implied}

If so then it may run in compatibility mode. Wiki info on it. It's based on the Quake II engine so the tweaks needed to get that to run might work for you. A Youtube video on fixing it for Win7/8.

There were a couple of sites that either sell the game as a download, or have it free-to-play online. I couldn't find anything else to assist as far as hardware. Here's a link to 2 right off the bat: To purchase - Amazon, To stream - Shockwave. Hopefully this helps out a little. I know it's not the most preferred since you already have the file, but maybe this will be a decent alternative.

You looking to buy, or build one?

The latter won't be possible with 200$ unless you want a potato.

However if you're just buying a prebuilt I'd say take a look at these:

https://www.amazon.com/HP-Quad-Core-Windows-10-Refurbished/dp/B01CV9G1BO/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=gaming+pc&qid=1563201077&refinements=p_36%3A1253506011&rnid=386442011&s=pc&sr=1-6

https://www.amazon.com/Dell-3010-Performance-Professional-Refurbished/dp/B07J46FQCX/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?keywords=computer&qid=1563201334&refinements=p_36%3A1253506011&rnid=386442011&s=pc&sr=1-11

buy a cheap unmanaged switch

Just plug one of the cables from the router into it, then plug another from the switch to your PCs

https://www.amazon.com/CYBERPOWERPC-Master-Gaming-3-2GHz-GMA8980CPG/dp/B07W62CJCQ/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=gaming+pc&qid=1574540592&sr=8-10

Around $ 540 but on sale

Found this today: https://www.amazon.co.uk/ZOTAC-GAMING-Geforce-GTX-1650/dp/B07QF1H9YR/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=1650&qid=1569182177&s=gateway&sr=8-1

Though I'm still of the opinion that if you figure out your PSU pins you can get these:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/XFX-Radeon-RX570-Internal-Graphic/dp/B06Y64PV2X/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=rx570&qid=1569182314&s=gateway&sr=8-1

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sapphire-11266-67-20G-Radeon-Graphics-Express/dp/B07MLZW8QT/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=rx570&qid=1569182314&s=gateway&sr=8-5

And maybe more. If you have technically inclined ask them

so what is the difference between - https://www.amazon.co.uk/ZOTAC-GAMING-Geforce-GTX-1650/dp/B07QF1H9YR/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=1650&qid=1569182177&s=gateway&sr=8-1

and the one i linked - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07QPVNL74/ref=psdc_430523031_t2_B07QF1H9YR

​

also why does the one you put say 0 instead of 4gb can i ask

https://www.amazon.com/MSI-GAMING-GTX-960-4G/dp/B00V4HY522/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1501653128&sr=1-3&keywords=gtx+960

https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-Support-Graphics-03G-P4-6162-KR/dp/B01KU2CIIY/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1501653067&sr=1-3&keywords=gtx+1060+3gb

https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-Windforce-128-bit-Graphic-GV-N105TWF2OC-4GD/dp/B01M6Y671T/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1501653081&sr=1-3&keywords=gtx+1050ti

https://www.amazon.com/ZOTAC-GeForce-DisplayPort-128-bit-ZT-P10510A-10L/dp/B01MCU1ERO/ref=sr_1_7?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1501653081&sr=1-7&keywords=gtx+1050ti

Thoughts on these? Should I focus on something that is closer to 4GB? Would I experience any bottlenecking on my CPU?

I was thinking of using this for hdmi and this for audio, wouldn't it work? I'd really prefer if I could keep it down to a single cable.

Ah well if you followed my instructions and those on the linked site and rebooted then there's no drivers for Vista/7/8. The adapter just channels the data from one port type through to another unless it's broken I think you're out of luck. I got one of these for Space Sims: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Thrustmaster-T-Flight-Hotas-Joystick-PS3/dp/B001CXYMFS you can get them cheaper though.

For less messy amazon links you can extract the part after "/dp/" in

https://www.amazon.com/Intel-3160-HMWG-R-Wireless-Bluetooth-Supports/dp/B00MY9EVHI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1484239061&sr=8-3&keywords=mini+pci

and make it:

https://amzn.com/B00MY9EVHI

Or via smile link:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00MY9EVHI

BEEP BOP

Plz send any recommendations via PM

This looks great! https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-Support-Graphics-03G-P4-6162-KR/dp/B01KU2CIIY/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1501653067&sr=1-3&keywords=gtx+1060+3gb

I never buy Gigabyte stuff, any hardware failure I've ever had was with Gigabyte products. Damn, those 1050ti's are cheap though...

This is my graphics card, and it's on a desktop. My laptop is a pile of ass.

This is the Tower/Computer: https://www.amazon.com/HP-8300-Elite-Computer-Quad-Core/dp/B01CV9G1BO


Here’s the monitor: https://www.amazon.com/Acer-SB220Q-Ultra-Thin-Frame-Monitor/dp/B07CVL2D2S/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=acer+sb220q&qid=1565054967&s=gateway&sprefix=acer+&sr=8-1



The monitor seemed like it was brand new when we got it, not too long after we got it though, it started showing symptoms of a black screen and a few lines across the screen, now it displays it constantly and the colors of the lines are brighter and blocking the Windows home. I’ve heard of other users having this problem and even tried to switch cables but that did nothing for them or me. I’m not sure if this monitor was damaged when it arrived because it’s an LCD monitor and it says things like keeping it away from sunlight, moisture and rain. Also says to keep it in range of a room with -4 to 140 degrees Fahrenheit which I have done. We might have to get a replacement if I can’t figure anything else out by tomorrow. This is ridiculous.