(Part 3) Top products from r/rccars

You probably need a 1/10 scale or a 1/12 scale if you want to do any grass-type driving. Monster trucks have the best clearance.

To save on money, you'll probably want a 2wd vehicle, which will put you in the market for anything around $100-$200 new. Don't be afraid to buy used, especially if they package chargers and batteries in for a low price. Just don't go buying overpriced used traxxas trucks, I've seen a truck that goes for ~4-500 new up for sale on craigslist for $800+ because of "upgrades." It's not worth it, especially for a child.

If you have amazon prime, Redcat Racing is a (relatively) cheap R/C car, and it has great parts availability (2 day shipping on everything, as far as I can tell. Great for minimizing downtime if something breaks.) If you're not interested in modding it, it should be fine. Just realize that since it's a cheaper brand, there might be some... abnormalities.

For transparency, here is an amazon review on the 1/10 scale Redcat Blackout short-course truck. In general, the short course truck doesn't have the best clearance, but excels in handling. I would still recommend a monster truck, especially if you plan on running in grass. Redcat has a monstertruck, the Volcano, for $140. They also have a 1/18 scale version, and allegedly they do alright on grass, but I'm not certain.

To sum up, Redcat has some cheap trucks that are of better quality than toy grade, and probably the lowest prices out there. Of course, other Hobby Grade R/C cars will be of even better quality. I highly recommend a 1/10 scale or 1/12 scale toy car, but you could probably make do with a 1/18 scale, so long as it is a monster truck with good ground clearance.

P.S. You will probably be buying an extra battery and/or replacement charger, because what comes with these RTR kits is kinda trash. You can get something like this for <$20 to charge your batteries, just make sure it is made to take your battery chemistry. Or you can get a multiple-battery-chemistry charger, and not worry about it, but they cost you at least double the price. Again, do some research on battery chemistry, performance, safety, and charger price before buying them. I personally trust Duratrax Onyx chargers, but if you're getting a cheap charger you can obviously go off-brand. The specific charger I use is the Onyx 235, which can handle NiMH, NiCD, LiPO, and (IIRC) LiFE batteries with no problems.

> I talked to a local hobby shop for a little this past weekend, and they mentioned two things - one low quality AA batteries, and two, if the end of the TQi receiver cable is bent/kinked, it's shot. I had only bought Target branded AA's, since I needed so many for the older remote, but I did buy some Duracell's to make sure it wasn't that. I did read somewhere that it could be the servo's pulling power if they're faulty, but wanted to get any insight. I was also wondering if the TQi receiver was expecting more/different power than the 4 AA's from the pack on the rear of the truck.

Alkaline AA batteries won't be able to provide enough power for the servos if they're drawing higher currents. You need rechargeable AA NiMH batteries to give them a kick and keep them moving, if they will move at all (they might just burn out). I recommend you get these ones (make sure your battery specifications match the packaging in this photo):

• New battery day! 24 AA Eneloop NiMH batteries in 16 and 8 cell packs. : r/AAMasterRace
  
  Get this package first to get the highest quality charger on the market:
  
  
• AmazonSmile: Panasonic K-KJ17MCA4BA Advanced Individual Cell Battery Charger Pack with 4 AA eneloop 2100 Cycle Rechargeable Batteries: PANASONIC: Electronics
  
  You need that charger to get the full life out of Eneloops. If you take care of them, Eneloops will last at least a decade, maybe longer.
  
  If the Eneloops are too expensive for you, or you want 25% longer run time, another good option are these decent rechargeables, but you will need to buy them 5 times to match the longevity of Eneloop, so they will cost more in the long run even though they're cheaper up front:
  
  
• IKEA LADDA AA NiMH 2450 mAh rechargeable battery 4 pack
  
  Eneloops won't last super long if you're fully depleting them by using them for motors. In that case, it's not such a good deal, and you might be better off with the $7 IKEA LADDA AA NiMH batteries.
  
  You ought to get rechargeable batteries just to save money and save the planet, but I don't know if that's the problem. What you're describing sounds kind of like an interference issue. If you're able to use a scanner or other kind of receiver to listen or look at the frequencies your crystals are working on, you can find out for sure if you have a strong signal without interference. You could use this to investigate interference issues (and see a whole new world you didn't know about):
  
  
• AmazonSmile: RTL-SDR Blog R820T2 RTL2832U 1PPM TCXO SMA Software Defined Radio with 2x Telescopic Antennas: Electronics
  
• AmazonSmile: BlueRigger USB 2.0 Type A Male to A Female Active Extension/Repeater Cable - 32FT (10M): Gateway (get 2 maximum for each RTL-SDR)
  
  You only need the USB extension cables if you want to put the receiver far away from your PC. You can use up to 2 them before exceeding the maximum length. You probably don't need them for this particular project, but they might be handy for other things.

Heyyo! You already know its a redcat, but I have some more info for you!

NEVER buy parts from redcat's website.... stupidly overpriced (at least for upgrades and electronics). Instead I shop at these places:

AliExpress - Think of it as a Chinese amazon. parts will take about a month to come in on average, but they're real cheap. Btw, I would pick this up. And these. They are inexpensive parts that will break if you keep using this thing. Seriously... redcat uses CHEAP ass plastic lol.

Amazon - Usually a tiny bit more expensive but much quicker. Its good for when you break something and need to get it up and running. I think you need these but I can't be sure from your pic/comments. Also, you might need some dogbones.

Lastly eBay might have some good deals, but usually the first two are better choices.

There isn't much part support at local hobby shops for redcat, and I hate for people to get burned from redcat's website like I did at first so I always try to share this information! If you have any questions regarding redcat, feel free to hit me up... I'll try my best :)

EDIT: Oh! and anything that's HSP is also redcat.... HSP is the parent company or something... I think... but I do know that the parts fit the same!

Get used to the car would be my first recommendation followed by maybe a 2s 30c 5000mah battery and charger to support a lipo battery.

After that replace what you broke with better parts or upgrade if you feel it is too slow/sluggish.

I wouldn't worry too much about the tires just yet, wait until you get some experience to really know what the tires are/aren't doing that you do or don't like. pro line trenchers are great monster truck tires, but you may not want monster truck tires....tires/wheels go along with what you want to accomplish...if you don't know yet, leave it stock, wheel/tire combos can get expensive esp when you don't know/aren't sure.

Oh and congrats on settling on a car. Understand this is a beginner car, great for you to learn on and see where you want to go. I wouldn't put a lot of money into it, tbh, just learn. I can get you uncontrollably fast if that is where you want it to be but it will cost more than the car is worth (between bullet proofing and upgrading the motor/esc).

edit: as far as first thing I would get other than battery, rpm servo-saver elminiator
http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/shop/chassis-components/servo-saver-eliminator-bellcrank-for-the-ecx-boost-2wd-ruckus-2wd-circuit-2wd-torment/

Get some bearing oil (keep bearings cleaned and lubed, once a week if in mud...once a month if not)
https://www.amazon.com/Synthetic-Lubricating-Controlled-Vehicles-Evaporate/dp/B00CVUR8S4/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1519658344&sr=8-5&keywords=rc+bearing+oil

Get a good set of tools, I got one of these to start with and it works for most cars...A lot of people don't like the interchangeable drivers and go for the solid driver kits.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EKJ4UOO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Body clips are a must
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C9V2QKO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Grab a pack of nylon washers. Try adding a second one on either side of the bearing carrier. If you add a second washer and it spins freely and cleans up the slop you're good. If adding a second washer makes it too tight you can try sanding down the nylon washer. Make sure to check it's not too tight by spinning the wheel with your hand. Sounds like you have enough slop a second washer should be fine.

Also I think you're the same person that had asked before but when checking for slop in the wheels make sure you're holding the a-arm, drive shaft, and toe/camber links in your hand. You only want to see the slop in the wheel and not holding those bits will make it seem like there is a lot of play.

Machined hex drivers; I've had a set of Dynamite Machined ones for 4 years now and only have had to replace the tip once when I dropped the 1.5MM one onto concrete. Do NOT buy the anodized ones, those use soft metals that will wear down easily. Also, a good soldering iron isn't required, but it sure as heck makes everything a whole lot easier. I'd also suggest some basic nut drivers like 4-7MM almost like these. A magnetic parts tray will also make your life easier.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/dynamite-machined-hex-driver-us-set-red-dyn2909/p38304
https://www.amainhobbies.com/dynamite-machined-hex-driver-metric-set-red-dyn2904/p38303
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-5-5-mm-Metric-Nut-Driver-with-3-in-Hollow-Shaft-70255/203310642
https://www.amazon.com/Weller-WES51-Analog-Soldering-Station/dp/B000BRC2XU

The blue stuff is most common - you'll find it anywhere, but I find it's too strong for some small screws (like the ones you find in RC cars) , so I've stripped out a few screw heads and started looking for another solution.

The one I ended up getting is the Loctite 222 "low strength", which is purple. I ordered it form Amazon.com and had it delivered to me in Canada (east of Toronto): https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-555339-Purple-Strength-6-milliliter/dp/B0002KKTT0

If you do use the blue, use the smallest amount possible and you should be OK. And only use the stuff on metal to metal - it apparently doesn't like plastic.

For what it's worth, I'm the only guy I've come across in the dozens of people I RC with who uses the purple stuff. That's how rare it is. LOL

I don't think you'll find anything decent in that micro size. Most of the good ones are 1/4" hex drive.

I've tried the Dewalt 12V, the Hitachi 3.6V, and the Makita 12V.

The Makita was my favorite and that's the one I kept. Most people in R/C like the Hitachi the best because the clutch has a slightly lower setting than the other 2. My Hitachi arrived with a defective power switch, so I returned it. I like the more traditional gun style of the Dewalt and the Makita, which also have the variable speed trigger. The Hitachi was just too long and cumbersome.

The Makita has a 2-speed gearbox and a better (lighter) clutch than the Dewalt. That's why I kept the Makita.

That’s a decent truck. What’s your budget? Do you want a ready to run truck or are you wanting to race competitively? Are you going to run on a track or bash around in the back yard. The recommendations I’ve gotten vary wildly based on what your looking to do with the truck.

Here’s the first charger I bought. Charges whatever and comes with a bunch of connectors. I bought lipo safe bags to charge in. It was a better safe than sorry thing for me.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NLBZJ9C/ref=cm_sw_r_oth_api_AdN.zbX2HEQ39

I use an eneloop rechargeable set and I hardly ever have to charge them. Many days of practice and racing, then it can sit a month and still have plenty more left. So pretty good.

Panasonic K-KJ17MCA4BA Advanced Individual Cell Battery Charger Pack with 4 AA eneloop 2100 Cycle Rechargeable Batteries https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JHKSMJU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_HuXnDb09B6DVY

Will these fit in a bandits battery tray? I know my 7th cell is above my battery pack. Thank you for your help

Ideally, you’d want to save up a little bit. But here are some low buck recommendations that include everything you need (radio, batteries, charger).

Arrma Granite Voltage
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07846P1Z7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ECIwDbHKM2S6D

ECX Amp (only available in store)
https://www.hobbytown.com/ecx-amp-1-10-rtr-2wd-monster-truck-ecx03028t1/p464497

Redcat Volcano
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HVBVNVG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DFIwDb7VAJA7V

Traxxas Rustler
https://www.hobbytown.com/traxxas-rustler-1-10-rtr-stadium-truck-blue-tra37054-1-bluex/p845542

These are great Bondhus 10687 Set of 7 Balldriver... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006O4ADI?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

For the stock electronics, i wouldnt use anything orher than the losi lipos. The price of the losi battery + charger combo isnt too bad:

https://www.amazon.com/Team-Losi-Micro-T-Charger-Battery/dp/B000NSQLXE

Losi also did make a 300mah version that would only fit the DT though those seem hard to come by now a days.

Get something like this! https://www.amazon.com/Polished-Lock-nut-Hinge-Pin-Traxxas-Electrics/dp/B005QCKL42/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465366627&sr=8-1&keywords=rustler+hinge+pin

compare that traxxas charger to this one I think they are the same one...

Hitec X1

Edit: looks like the traxxas is rated for 80 Watts the hitec for 55. Both for 6 Amps

This bad boy right here.

https://www.amazon.com/Hitachi-DB3DL2-Dual-Position-Cordless-Screwdriver/dp/B004Y74AU6

​

If you are trying to complete repairs in a hurry at the track, build a kit without wearing your hands out, or just want to get a lot of work done in less time, this thing is a must. absolutely love this tool.

I've had decent luck with these off Amazon.
It can handle 2s, but I do not believe it has any kind of low voltage cutoff still.
Hobbypower Rc 10a Brushed ESC Motor Speed Controller 1/16 18 24 Car Boat Tank W/o Brake

The biggest benefit is its really compact.

For receiver you likely could fit a normal reciever inside the chassis tub. But if your trying to save weight there are tons and tons of micro receivers available that would work as well.

As for the servo I went with a 3.7g servo. It's really small and should glue to the chassis tub no problem, but you'll need to be a little crafty with the servo horn. The xmod servo horn is a little too large for Mico servo's output.

I quickly decided to ditch the tub when I got the electronics together in favor of a custom 2 plate chassis instead so I could fit larger batteries in down low, so I cannot give picture evidence to how it all fits. But I know it can!

The hardest thing with these xmods... Specially gen 1, is finding aluminum replacement parts for some of the bad plastics.

I used to have a Tamiya Grasshopper, then years of nothing, then a 2WD ECX Torment... Are you me? :o

FWIW, I changed the stock 7.x volt batteries to these 8.4v and it made a big difference in both speed and longevity. Super cheap upgrade since you literally just plug in the new battery and off you go.

If you're already planning the lipo/brushless route than never mind, but it was a cheap and easy upgrade. Mine just gets destroyed by the dogs chasing it so I haven't quite comitted to any real money yet heh

Here is the mobile version of your link

Mod 1 gears for a 3mm shaft.
https://www.amazon.com/ECX-Pinion-Gear-12T-3mm/dp/B00IJE9MJO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1494683824&sr=8-2&keywords=Ecx+mod+1

here is a link to compatible aluminum wheel hexes

Here is the desktop version of your link

It was this one

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JXI3H6Y/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here is the mobile version of your link

Heyo its called a rear hub carrier here on amazon in aluminium this for the 2wd slash and the ones I run on mine

I use https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005OTX7LG/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for track day and https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005LH3392/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ov3lxb02YPP5E for other use, including charging to storage mode. Though I was able to find them much cheaper than they're listed here.

I personally am afraid of getting what I pay for when it comes to chargers and batteries so I do t go for the cheapest.

Have you tried thread locker? Locktite 222 purple is a good "won't go anywhere". Blue 243 is "won't go anywhere without force". Red 263 is "the screw will NOT come out without heat or EXTREAM force. Do not use Red on small screws. Blue is what I use regularly, and haven't ever had any problems in the 20 years of use. Each bottle will last you years if you use occasionally(aren't in manufacturing). I've never used a whole bottle before losing it.

Check out their own website if you want, and message if you have any questions. Have a good one.

The most important thing about having successful Deans connectors setup is the soldering iron. The discount 10W-30W 'idiot wand' soldering iron is just not going to cut it in this case. You will suffer, you will hate soldering, your joints will look bad, and they will not be strong.

Invest in a good soldering iron with at least 50W like this one. I use the digital readout version which is fancier but that's it.

It pays itself off almost right away if you plan to do any sort of random electrical work.

Female plugs always are on the battery, so that they can't short out by accident easily.

http://www.amazon.com/Maisto-LaFerrari-Control-Vehicle-Colors/dp/B00HATV8AA/ref=sr_1_2?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1456809375&sr=1-2&keywords=laferrari&refinements=p_89%3AMaisto Sorry I meant to find the product, but had some trouble and forgot. The manufacturer is Maisto Tech

These are my go to's. I've used some of the Dynamite tools but have been let down everytime. They seem to strip out if you look at them wrong.

Bondhus Hex Drivers: Metric & Imperial

[Hobbico Wire Cutter/Strippers] (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHVR9&P=FR&gclid=Cj0KEQiAqemzBRDh2vGKmMnqoegBEiQAqJPuyOyjP9p9BZBrlzU_EWEcAqQWw2SLmEXwzQfVVEKWkq4aAt828P8HAQ)

[Hobbico Secure Grip Pliers] (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJSP3&P=0)

[ProTek Body Reamer] (http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-trucks/protek-rc-trutorque-body-reamer-ptk-8203/p212259)

For those rare phillips screws: [Craftsman Screwdriver Kit] (http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-41-pc-screwdriver-set/p-00931798000P?sid=IDxCMDFx20140801x001&KPID=00931798000)

Not to be a drag, but do you have a link? Is it this? (Sorry if the formatting is fucked up Im on mobile)
http://amzn.com/B000NSQLXE