Reddit reviews Bondhus 10687 Set of 7 Balldriver Screwdrivers, ProGuard Finish, sizes 1.27-5mm

ProTip: A set of Bondhus hex drivers changed my life. I haven't ruined a printer screw in months.

These wrenches are the best there is:

Bondhus 20399 Ball End L-Wrench Double Pack with BriteGuard and GoldGuard Finish https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00132CGTW

And drivers:

Bondhus 10687 Set of 7 Balldriver... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006O4ADI

Skip the ruby nozzle, it's only necessary if you are printing a lot of abrasive filaments like wood, magnetic, carbon fiber, etc. Get it when (if) you need it. The stock nozzle will print PLA and PETG for ages before requiring replacement.

Same goes for the smaller nozzle, again, unless you are planning on using it right away. Smaller nozzles are great for finer details, but will typically greatly reduce your print speed, especially on really low layer heights like 0.05mm. They also really require you to have your settings, extruder and Z-height dialed in, something you're not going to be ready for right away if you're new to 3D printing.

As for tools, what comes in the box will get you by (assuming you purchased a kit, not assembled). A pair of fine-tipped tweezers is also useful. Side-cutting pliers. Also, highly recommend a proper set of ball-end hex screwdrivers instead of those God-awful hex keys.

I've got my notes on recommended tools & first-aid kit here. Proper tools for swapping nozzles are important to avoid inadvertent damage (although it's not a scary process).

• You do not need a spatula and half the stuff sold in "3D printing starter kits".
  
• You do not need any of the exotic bed prep stuff.
  
• Bondhus or equivalent ball drivers are very useful. You really only need the 2.5mm. Makes removing and reassembling parts much easier.
  
  Which sock & which nozzles? The TriangleLab nozzles are good. The others are OK in a pinch, but I've seen reports of them shearing off at high temps.
  
  Read up on clearing jams. The 1st one can be scary, but they're no big deal if you're prepared.
  
  Have fun with it!
  

These are great Bondhus 10687 Set of 7 Balldriver... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006O4ADI?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Here are some links. Most of these are things that if someone had, they wouldn't mind having doubles or whatever. Most of them I own or have used and liked. Many of them can be found at big box stores but all of these should contain brand and picture..

Like, the utility knife is a particular one that is really nice, both brand and style. Super handy for cutting thick insulation.

http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWHT10045-Single-Blade-Snap-Off/dp/B0051QIA3C

Can't go wrong with knipex cutters. Anything knipex is pretty good. Without knowing more details on what they are into, this is a decent all rounder.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000X4MPAQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1418895942&sr=8-2&dpPl=1&dpID=31TAs95wNXL&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SX200_QL40

Things always need oiling. Hinges and ball bearings and stuff.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KKHNU0
(Plus)
http://www.amazon.com/Liquid-Kroil-Penetrating-Lube-Aerosol/dp/B00EINDJSU/

One screwdriver that serves many functions in one small, cheap package:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_170991-86580-SF14_4294857608__?productId=1221941

A tape measure that has the decimal / fractional written on it. I can read a normal one, but I find work with my Lufkin more accurate and less transposed bits.

http://www.amazon.com/Lufkin-QRL625MP-Vertical-1-Inch-25-Feet/dp/B004R1JPEA/

Ball end metric allen wrenches with screwdriver handles. They make many sets ( standard, etc)

http://www.amazon.com/Bondhus-10687-Balldriver-Screwdrivers-ProGuard/dp/B0006O4ADI

These clamps are decent and cheap for both woodworking and metalworking. Irwin is a nice namebrand but it's a lot more money for just a clamp.

http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/clamps/11-inch-swivel-pad-lock-grip-pliers-39535.html

Metalworking with flat stock.. you often have some holes that need to be drilled from a template to a thing. These center in the hole and transfer the marks. (Using the clamp helps too)
http://www.harborfreight.com/28-piece-transfer-punch-set-3577.html

Good quality headlamp with a red mode. I like the red mode for outdoorsy things. Non red mode lamp people are jerks when they turn and talk at you and blow your night vision.
http://www.rei.com/product/866955/petzl-tactikka-plus-headlamp

Bondhus makes a set that's basically identical to these snap-on ones.

https://www.amazon.com/Bondhus-10687-Balldriver-Screwdrivers-ProGuard/dp/B0006O4ADI

Bondhus https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006O4ADI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_FI6FAbEXJCK2D

I'll chime in... had my kit for about 2 weeks now and will share my experience:

Tools

If you don't have some of these, I HIGHLY recommend them.

• Flush Cutters. Fantastic for snipping and trimming zip ties, and great for cutting filament. They're inexpensive at less than $5. https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Stand-off-Construction-21-Degree/dp/B00FZPDG1K/
  
• Digital Calipers. You'll use these alot. Will come useful in the construction of the printer as well. Can find a decent pair for $10-$20. If you have a harbor freight nearby, they sell some decent ones that always have a coupon.
  
• Bondhus Ball Hex Screwdrivers. I don't know people do it, but using those L shaped hex drivers are annoying and uncomfortable. Don't cheap out on these. Bondhus makes some of the best hex drivers in the business and are fairly inexpensive. https://www.amazon.com/Bondhus-10687-Balldriver-Screwdrivers-ProGuard/dp/B0006O4ADI/
  
• M3 Tap - I don't know how widespread it was, but a few people received frames where the holes were not tapped (or if they were, they were covered in powdercoat afterwards), and had screws snap inside of them. You don't want this to happen... happened to me and is a pain to fix. I didn't want to deal with customer support and wait for a new frame, so I tapped the holes myself. Even if you don't need the tap, it'll come useful for a lot of projects since a lot of stuff uses 3mm screws. https://www.amazon.com/Tonsiki-Adjustable-T-Handle-Reversible-Threading/dp/B01M4J4GWL/
  
• 3mm hardware kit - Again, you'll likely need some extra 3mm hardware if you plan on modifying the printer or adding on to it. https://www.amazon.com/Hilitchi-210pcs-Stainless-Socket-Assortment/dp/B014ONCP88/
  
  Assembly isn't too hard, and the directions are pretty good. My main complaint with the directions is that sometimes they don't explain what's important and not important all the time. I spent a lot of time building, taking apart, and rebuilding the base y-axis frame because I thought I did something wrong (it wobbled) to find out that you fix that wobble as one of the last steps.
  
  The 100mm distance that you're required to thread double nuts early in the assembly is absolutely critical by the end of the build for many different reasons. It would be nice if prusa included some kind of printed spacer to make that step foolproof.
  
  Again, assembly is straightforward. I took a span of 3 days to finish mine while dedicating a few hours each night to do it.
  
  Upgrades
  
  A couple of things can be improved on the printer. The printer isn't terribly noisy, but you can make it damn near silent with a few upgrades.
  
  
• The vibration dampers mentioned previously (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1707045) work damn well to eliminate a lot of sound. I've also seen people claim that putting the printer on a concrete paver block and then putting that block on rubber feet eliminates most of the sound as well. (http://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/improvements-f14/best-usd7-buck-improvement-you-can-make-t3051.html)
  
  
• After the vibration dampers, the hotend fan becomes the loudest thing about the printer. I ended up buying a 40mm Noctua fan and printing an adapter (https://grabcad.com/library/mk2_40mm_fan_duct-1) to mate it to the extruder assembly. Now the only thing I hear is linear bearing noise. Wiring in the noctua fan isn't plug and play though. I cut off the stock fan and crimped some dupont connectors on the leads and connected the wires that way. Soldering works too.
  
  
• I don't care what you do, but find a new solution for a spool holder. The one prusa includes is terrible. Easiest solution is to print or use a pvc pipe to connect the two spool holder brackets. I went another route and printed a spool holder that used 608 skate bearings to make the spool holder buttery smooth. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1832235
  
  
• The method to mount the y-axis bearing is not great. Print these out (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1819779) and switch out the zip ties when you get a chance. No rush to do these... just something to do when you want to tinker. Look up the igus drylin bearings too... a lot swear by them.
  
  
• Also software. If you can swing the $150, I highly, highly, highly recommend simplify3d. Their slicing is second to none, and their support structures don't make a mess and require a ton of print cleanup.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006O4ADI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Then print this.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2670661

These are awesome:

https://www.amazon.com/Bondhus-10687-Balldriver-Screwdrivers-ProGuard/dp/B0006O4ADI/ref=lp_2586173011_1_5?srs=2586173011&ie=UTF8&qid=1519931637&sr=8-5

These are my go to's. I've used some of the Dynamite tools but have been let down everytime. They seem to strip out if you look at them wrong.

Bondhus Hex Drivers: Metric & Imperial

[Hobbico Wire Cutter/Strippers] (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHVR9&P=FR&gclid=Cj0KEQiAqemzBRDh2vGKmMnqoegBEiQAqJPuyOyjP9p9BZBrlzU_EWEcAqQWw2SLmEXwzQfVVEKWkq4aAt828P8HAQ)

[Hobbico Secure Grip Pliers] (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJSP3&P=0)

[ProTek Body Reamer] (http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-trucks/protek-rc-trutorque-body-reamer-ptk-8203/p212259)

For those rare phillips screws: [Craftsman Screwdriver Kit] (http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-41-pc-screwdriver-set/p-00931798000P?sid=IDxCMDFx20140801x001&KPID=00931798000)