Reddit reviews 3M Keyboard Tray, Simply Turn Knob to Adjust Height and Tilt, Sturdy Tray Includes Gel Wrist Rest and Precise Mouse Pad, Swivels Side to Side and Stores Under Desk, 17" Track, Black (AKT60LE)

Base de teclado pra se colocar em mesa. Puta produto simples mas não existe no mercado brasileiro. O bom é que por conta de existir uma NR de ergonomia, você teria "automaticamente" um mercado corporativo imenso pra se adequarem as normas de ergonomia.

EDIT: esse produto http://www.amazon.com/3M-Keyboard-Standard-Antimicrobial-AKT60LE/dp/B001B0DCOO

Reddit did not like my text. here it is. I wanted to replace my glass L-shaped computer desk as I had it for 10 years and wanted to fix issues I had with it. So I laid out my requirements:

1. I wanted a wood top, as glass, while easy to clean and maintain, is colder than wood.
   
2. Improve cable management to hide as many cables as possible. Glass/metal table not effective here
   
3. Hidden power strip
   
4. No table legs blocking me from moving back and forth between home and work computer.
   
5. Current glass desk is 30 inches deep, I like that depth.
   
6. I wanted the table height to be able to fit my file cabinet underneath to clean up the space
   
   I looked at roomandboard.com, and found a table I liked, but not cheap, with shipping, around $1700.
   
   http://www.roomandboard.com/catalog/office/desks/parsons-leg-l-shaped-desks
   
   So can i do it myself for less?
   
   I started by looking on r/DIY and came across pipe desks. Great idea, industrial look, and would fit in with my building as i live in a gentrified industrial neighborhood.
   Here was a great example:
   
   https://www.reddit.com/r/DIY/comments/2w3phn/pipe_and_butcher_block_ldesk/
   Shoutout to u/tylergarner as I stole some of his ideas, such as the powerstrip he used and the metal mending strips. Thanks!
   
   My issues with this DIY (not everyone has these constraints)
   
7. Having to strip/paint pipe - i live in a loft and have limited space, fumes/vapors will kill brain cells.
   
8. Loved the wood, but would have to sand, stain and poly it. Sand would get all over the loft and again, fumes/vapors.
   
9. I am not experienced with staining, so may screw it up.
   
   So i needed to solve the wood top issues and the legs problem.
   
   Solving the Table top issue.
   
   I looked online for options for wood, and found options besides Lumber Liquidators that have finished wood tops
   www.crosscuthardwoods.com (local portland, oregon store 2 miles from my loft) - they carried two brands
   
10. Michigan Maple Butcher Block http://www.butcherblock.com/products/residential-products/residential-counter-tops/
    
11. John Boos - here is an example on amazon
    http://www.amazon.com/John-Boos-Thick-Commercial-Butcher/dp/B005IZ2EZQ/ref=sr_1_19?srs=2594426011&ie=UTF8&qid=1450283655&sr=8-19&keywords=john+boos+maple
    
    Local companies in your city may be able to order these or maybe a different brand
    
    Benefits of buying finished
    
    1. looks great
       
    2. Quicker/less work
       
    3. can be ordered with poly finish (no chemicals)
       
    4. can be custom ordered with edge (e.g., bullnose, square edge) and size
       
       Issues - costs can be higher and staining is not possible
       
       Things to consider if you choose this approach - Ensure you know if you wanted finished (Poly) or unfinished. You can get it either way. John Boos will burn their logo into the wood unless requested not to have name.
       
       I decided on 60 by 30 by 1.5 inches thick Maple, square edge, poly and no logo. Good news is that crosscut had it in stock by both vendors.
       John Boos $328 and Michigan Maple ($298). I went with John Boos as the finish was smoother and the wood pieces were the length of the table, not the traditional butcher block style.
       I bought two.
       
       Solving the Leg issue
       
       I searched on line for "metal table legs" and found several vendors.
       http://www.tablelegsonline.com/table-legs.html
       http://www.tablelegworld.com/Table-Height-Table-Legs
       Ikea sells them as well
       
       I was unsure the height so i went with cheap and fast, adjustable black legs from Ikea. $15/each needed 7 ($105 total)
       One of the two tables is short a leg, below I talk about how i support the missing leg.
       https://us-mg5.mail.yahoo.com/neo/launch?action=showLetter&umid=2_0_0_1_344973_AIt2imIAABORVnERMgfrWKGy%2F3A&box=Inbox&src=td&.rand=1808515774
       
       The legs are ok, adjustable, and low shine black, but not as rigid as I wanted. Not an issue when assembled, but more just me knowing it could be better. I later found out that i could buy the cool square legs from Room and Board for $40 a piece.
       
       Connecting the two tables together
       
       I saw that u/tylergarner used a window sash to connect the two tables together and I was going to run with that, but I then saw this idea on the crosscut site.
       http://www.crosscuthardwoods.com/tite-joint.html
       
       I loved the idea of tite joint, but as I did not want to burrow into the table so i looked around and found this, which I installed.
       
       http://www.wwhardware.com/epco-joint-fasteners-e0026e $15 shipped.
       
       I bought a much longer screw from Ace HW to enable more space between the brackets so I am not screwing too close to the edge.
       You may be able to go to a countertop store and buy one from them as they use them to connect countertops together.
       
       Supporting the missing leg
       
       I installed two of the following
       http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-10-in-Zinc-Plated-Mending-Plate-15390/202034036 ($3 each) I used #12 screws to mount these.
       These work very well, zero sag, even after sitting on it for a few mins (155lbs).
       
       Costs before my options (Around $800). So I saved $900 over the room and board solution. I am happy.
       
       Options I chose to install.
       
       Wire management - Ikea
       Cheap and highly effective. $10 each, bought three.
       http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/30200253/
       
       Drawer to hold pens, paper and the like
       http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KWM8EEK?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00
       Love it, $35 from amazon - did not find many options here. Maybe searched on the wrong terms
       
       Power Strip
       http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0027D3LNG?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01
       
       Lots of plugs and spaced out so no conflicts accessing them, $28 amazon
       
       Adjustable Keyboard Tray
       http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001B0DCOO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00
       $95 and a crappy 3M design, sticks about 1 inch out from the edge of the table when installed as designed. would not buy again.
       
       How did i mount my PC underneath my desk?
       
       I had a smaller version of the following.
       http://www.storables.com/10-x-24-shelf.html
       I used 1.5 inch fender washers and screws where the legs go to mount to the table, then I used cable ties to hold of the PC (intel NUC) and USB drives.
       
       
       Note:
       I did not use any of the screws provided in the legs, or options i selected. Maple is very hard and the philip screws they provided strip very, very, very easy. I went to my local Ace Hardware store and bought my screws. 5 min walk and could by individually versus a whole box from HD/Lowes. Saved money and frustration.
       I generally got the biggest diameter screws I could get the fit the hole for the legs, and they are in there, zero issues. Ensure you drill pilot holes to avoid splitting the wood, I followed this guide for hardwood and was mostly successful http://engineershandbook.com/Tables/woodscrewpilotholes.htm
       
       Options to lower costs
       
       
12. Buy a solid wood door and rip to size. Lowes and HD sell them.
    http://www.homedepot.com/p/JELD-WEN-30-in-x-80-in-Woodgrain-Flush-Solid-Core-Unfinished-Hardwood-Interior-Door-Slab-THDJW160700464/202036255
    
13. Buy a cheaper type of prefinished wood than maple.
    
14. Ikea apparently sells some countertops that can/maybe able to be used, but I did not look into it.

I wouldn't trust those flimsy trays on side rails. 3M makes some very sturdy adjustable key board trays which come in various sizes and have adjustable height / tilt, too. These are designed for commercial use and are much stronger.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Keyboard-Standard-Antimicrobial-AKT60LE/dp/B001B0DCOO

Get an under-desk tray, something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Keyboard-Standard-Platform-Precise/dp/B001B0DCOO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1422044563&sr=8-2&keywords=keyboard+tray

It looks like a 3M adjustable keyboard tray (I might be wrong on the brand though) they are pretty expensive, I have one similar at my workplace and they are really nice to use, it's worth the investment if you are looking for better ergonomics, I'm starting the build of my next desk soon and it will include an adjustable keyboard tray like this one.

Gaming.

Keyboard too high.

If there's no computer chair, get this: http://www.amazon.com/3M-Keyboard-Standard-Platform-Precise/dp/B001B0DCOO (Adjustable Keyboard Tray)