Reddit Reddit reviews AmazonBasics 3.5mm Male to Female Stereo Audio Extension Adapter Cable - 6 Feet

We found 32 Reddit comments about AmazonBasics 3.5mm Male to Female Stereo Audio Extension Adapter Cable - 6 Feet. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Audio & Video Accessories
Accessories & Supplies
Electronics
Headphone Accessories
Headphone Extension Cords
AmazonBasics 3.5mm Male to Female Stereo Audio Extension Adapter Cable - 6 Feet
3.5mm male-to-female stereo audio cable transmits audio in stereo formatExtends length of existing 3.5mm male-to-male cable (not included)Works with any device equipped with standard 3.5mm audio jack or AUX-in portBeveled step-down design; gold-plated plugs for reliable, static-free performanceMeasures 6 feet long; AmazonBasics 1-year limited warranty
Check price on Amazon

32 Reddit comments about AmazonBasics 3.5mm Male to Female Stereo Audio Extension Adapter Cable - 6 Feet:

u/Snackys · 8 pointsr/smashbros

>Am I just being stupid?

AmazonBasics 3.5mm Male to Female Stereo Audio Cable - 6 Feet (1.83 Meters) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CNAUYBY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_nASDCbFNB7BFA

u/Sand_Coffin · 3 pointsr/Games

For what it's worth, I've purchased off Amazon a 6-foot male-to-female AUX cable as an extension cord for my computer headphones. But the same model I got also comes in 12 and 25-foot lengths to make it a little more accommodating. I don't know if the quality for audio deteriorates after a certain length, but it's really nice for my computer and I imagine it would help get a good sound feel while playing consoles.

This is the one that I have.

u/techtalkftw · 3 pointsr/osx

use an aux extender that doesnt have the fourth ring? like this but really short: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CNAUYBY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Sk2dAbXSK6KM3
?

u/staticcornflake · 2 pointsr/flying

I actually did that instructables mod, but I spliced in the female side of this adapter so I could connect a normal aux cord to it:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CNAUYBY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's not hard at all, and seems to work pretty well. You just have to control the volume on your phone since it doesn't auto-mute.

u/Aspirant_Fool · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Smaller jack is 2.5mm, so a 2.5mm to 3.5mm adapter, and then two 3.5mm extensions would you let you plug it into your PC.

The mic might not work, radio mics are designed to pass voltage through to trigger the radio to key up remotely, PC soundcard might not allow enough current to pass for the mic to function. Or it might be fine, either way, less than 20 bucks to find out.

u/doubletwist · 2 pointsr/Guitar

This is the easiest solution, and it's what I do.

Her is one example. It's only 6 bucks.

AmazonBasics 3.5mm Male to Female Stereo Audio Cable - 6 Feet (1.83 Meters)

u/Disturbedsleep · 2 pointsr/techsupport

What are you plugging the headphones in to. Is it the front jack or back jack of your computer. I think the issue is the jack you are plugging them into. Not all plugs are the same. One option is a headphone extension lead and see if that makes any difference then you'll know it the plug on your headphones that isn't quite sitting correctly.

u/Vulfpek · 2 pointsr/headphones

It's surprising that you don't have a headphone jack in the back of your desktop. In any event a 3.5mm male to female cable would work. Plug the male end into the front of your desktop, run the female end around the the rear of your PC, plug the headphone plug into the female end and the mic plug into your PC.

You can get one of them at walmart for like $5 or less.

u/Tacanacy · 2 pointsr/PS4

I have some recommendations and suggestions. I know there's a lot of info, but you should know this if you want to get more value for your money. I ran out of space before I could cover everything, so just ask me if you have questions.



Headphones


---



The first thing you should determine is whether you need sound isolation or not.

  • Open-back: the earcups have perforations/openings that allow sound to freely pass through. The benefits to this is generally a larger soundstage and better imaging. This can also help if your ears tend to sweat.

  • Closed-back: the earcups have solid shells that isolate sound from passing through to various extent.

     

    Next, you should figure out which sound signature you prefer.

  • Balanced/flat/neutral: doesn't over- or under-emphasize the bass or treble.
  • Warm: emphasizes the bass.
  • Dark: recesses the treble. A headphone can be warm and dark.
  • Bright: emphasizes the treble.
  • U-shape: emphasizes the bass and treble a little.
  • V-shape: emphasizes the bass and treble more than U-shaped.
  • Mid-forward: the mids are louder than the bass and treble. The mids may be emphasized or the bass and treble may be recessed.

    Sub-bass is how deep the bass goes and is where rumble comes from.

    Mid-bass is where impact/slam comes from.

    Generally, for competitive shooters, as little bass as possible is favorable because bass overpowers or overshadows footsteps and other sound cues.

     

    Lastly, you should know what sound characteristics constitute positional audio and pertain to immersion.

  • Soundstage: is produced by the headphone, not the game. It's perceived space and environment of sound. It's the size of the sound field around you. A small soundstage makes the environment around you sound confined or boxed in. With a large soundstage, the environment sounds much more spatial, open and natural. You can't comprehend it without experiencing it.

  • Imaging: is inherent to the audio content. It's how accurately the locations of sounds/objects are reproduced.

  • Separation: is how you discern individual sounds from a range of overlapping sounds. This is only important in competitive shooters.

     

    Personal headphone recommendations:

  • Audio-Technica ATH-AD700X (open-back):

    has recessed sub-bass and emphasized treble. Has clean bass and a little harsh treble. Has a huge soundstage, excellent imaging, separation and clarity, and great detail retrieval.

  • Beyerdynamic DT990 (600 ohms) (open-back):

    has recessed sub-bass, emphasized mid-bass, and very emphasized treble. Has clean bass and a little splashy or overly sparkly treble. Has a huge soundstage and excellent imaging, separation, clarity and detail retrieval.

  • Philips Fidelio X2 (open-back):

    has emphasized sub-bass, mid-bass and treble. Has clean bass and smooth treble. The soundstage is very wide, like the others I've mentioned, but it lacks some depth. It's probably only noticeable if you play competitively or compare it side-by-side with headphones that are deeper. This affects the imaging from front to back. The imaging from left to right is excellent. Separation and clarity are excellent. Detail retrieval is great, but bass overpowers sound cues a lot.

  • Sennheiser HD598 (open-back):

    is mid-forward and has recessed sub-bass. Has clean bass, smooth treble, and excellent clarity. I haven't used it much, so my impressions are that it has a large soundstage and good imaging, separation and detail retrieval.



    I also compare to AKG K52, AKG Q701, Audeze LCD-2 Classic, HiFiMan HE400i (the revision), HiFiMan HE-500, HyperX Cloud, Monoprice Monolith M1060, Philips SHP9500, Sennheiser HD700, Sennheiser HD800, Superlux HD662 EVO, Superlux HD668B, Superlux HD669, Superlux HD681 EVO, Tritton Pro+ and Turtle Beach Ear Force XP Seven.

    My evaluations are based on games, not music. I test headphones mostly in BF:BC2, BF3, BF4 and R6S.

     

    Alternatives:

    Open-back

  • AKG K612 Pro
  • AKG K701
  • AKG K702
  • Audio-Technica ATH-AD900x
  • Beyerdynamic DT880
  • Sennheiser Game One (headset)
  • Sennheiser HD558/HD579
  • Sennheiser HD599

    Closed-back

  • AKG K550
  • Audio Technica ATH-MSR7
  • Beyerdynamic Custom One Pro Plus
  • Beyerdynamic DT770
  • Sennheiser Game Zero (headset)
  • V-MODA Crossfade M-100

     

    Microphones


    ---



    Attachable to headphones

  • Antlion ModMic
  • Massdrop Minimic
  • V-MODA BoomPro

    Alternatives

  • Audio-Technica AT2020USB
  • Blue Snowball
  • Blue Yeti
  • Neewer Clip on Mini Lapel Microphone
  • Samson Go
  • Sony ECMCS3
  • Zalman ZM-Mic1

     

    Setup


    ---



    Antlion ModMic and Massdrop Minimic are compatible with all headphones.

    V-MODA BoomPro is compatible with Philips Fidelio X2 and V-MODA Crossfade M-100 of the aforementioned headphones.

     

    You can connect the headphone and mic to the PS4 by using an audio USB adapter. The one I linked has separate jacks for the headphone and mic, so in order to use it with V-MODA BoomPro, you need a Y-splitter, which is included with the mic. The other 3.5mm mics have an own cable, so there's no need for a Y-splitter.

    USB mics, like AT2020USB, Snowball and Yeti, connect directly to the PS4.

    If the cables aren't long enough, then just use an aux extension cable or a USB extension cable.

     

    The PS4 isn't capable of powering all headphones sufficiently, so you may need a sound card or a headphone amplifier and a DAC (digital-to-analog converter). A Sound card has an amp and a DAC built in and sacrifice sound quality for features. You need a DAC because USB and optical are digital signals and PS4 has no analog outputs. There's a common problem with reversed left and right channels when using USB DACs, so I'll only list DACs with optical. I'll only list USB sound cards that officially support PS4.

    Power isn't just impedance dependent, it's also sensitivity dependent, which many new to this hobby overlook. If a headphone has a low impedance rating and a high sensitivity rating, it will be very easy to drive. If a headphone has a high impedance rating and a high sensitivity rating, it should be easy to drive. If a headphone has a high impedance rating and a low sensitivity rating, it will be hard to drive. If a headphone has a low impedance rating and a low sensitivity rating, it will be very hard to drive.

    There's no consensus on where 'high' impedance starts at. I've read/heard anywhere from 50 ohms to 300 ohms. For sensitivity, there are two different measurements used for this: SPL/mW and SPL/V. 100 dB SPL/mW and 110 SPL/V are considered high.

    If you don't want to ever deal with this, then I recommend just getting a very powerful sound card or amp, e.g. Creative Sound BlasterX G5 or Schiit Magni 3.

    Audio-Technica ATH-AD700X, Philips Fidelio X2 and Sennheiser HD598 are very loud for me out of the controller or by using an audio USB adapter. The 600-ohm version of Beyerdynamic DT990 is too quiet.



    Mics generally don't work with amps, so you'll have to connect it to an audio USB adapter, or to the controller with a TRRS Y-splitter. You recognize them by the three black rings on their connector. You need to use the included Y-splitter with V-MODA BoomPro.

    With a sound card, you can use both the headphone and mic with it. You need a TRRS Y-splitter if the mic has a separate cable.

    To connect a separate amp to a DAC, you need RCA cables.



    Sound cards:

  • Astro MixAmp Pro TR
  • Creative Sound BlasterX G1
  • Creative Sound BlasterX G5
  • Turtle Beach Elite Pro TAC



    Amps and DACs:

  • Audioengine D1 (both)
  • FiiO D3 (DAC)
  • FX Audio DAC-X6 (both)
  • Mayflower ARC (both)
  • Micca OriGen G2 (both)
  • Schiit Magni 3 (amp)
  • Schiit Modi 2 Uber (DAC)
  • SMSL SD793-II (both)
  • Topping A30 (amp)
  • D30 (DAC)
u/plz_sapnupuas · 2 pointsr/buildapc

If you end up having to use the back, pick up a high quality aux extension cable. I say high quality because I've had nothing but trouble from the low quality ones. Here is a good one from amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CNAUYBY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_S2fMzb2Z97B78

u/SomeTechNoob · 2 pointsr/headphones

3.5* is tough to call "really nice".

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-Female-Stereo-Audio/dp/B01CNAUYBY/r

Amazon basic, Anker, Monoprice, etc. Lots of much better and more reviewed options out there.

u/zakabog · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Does the headset plug come as two cables or one? If it's one plug you need a TRRS female to TRS male splitter, if it's two cables from the headset then you can just buy two 3.5mm extension cables.

Return the DAC.

u/t0m_r1dd1e · 2 pointsr/headphones

Sounds like you need an adapter and an extension?
This adapter should work from what I can tell from your description: https://www.amazon.com/L26-Female-Balanced-Output-Adapter/dp/B01N10RBPW


And then any headphone extender should work. Here's one: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-Female-Stereo-Audio/dp/B01CNAUYBY/ref=sr_1_3_acs_sk_pb_1_sl_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1538499634&sr=1-3-acs&keywords=headphone+cable

u/FogLander · 2 pointsr/piano

If you’re looking to save money or are attached to your current headphones, you could grab a cheap extension cable like this

u/QuipA · 2 pointsr/headphones

> get a replacement cable for my HD688B, preferably a tangle-resistant one or even a coiled cable.

> Next step would be ditch the modmic and set up a USB mic with a cheap boom attached to my desk

Yep, that's a good solution, I've ditched my ModMic too and just bought the Blue Snowball ICE. The more expensive version with 3 pick up patterns is only worth the money if you want to record instruments or singing.

With regard to the 3,5mm extension cable for the Superlux...just get an Amazon basics one, they are cheap enough to just say fuck it and get a new one once the cable memory gets too annoying.

___

Now to the business side of things:

Rule 1

All requests for purchase advice, or any post that solicits product opinion, must be posted in the sticky thread!

You are very welcome to repost your question in the stickied daily purchase advice thread.

u/Ojntoast · 2 pointsr/HeadphoneAdvice

AmazonBasics 3.5mm Male to Female Stereo Audio Extension Adapter Cable - 6 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CNAUYBY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CaTrDbTPQYNHB

u/scottymoze · 1 pointr/hometheater

So that speaker system has 3 inputs: 1 RCA (red/white) and 2 headphone jack. With your three devices, assuming your TV has no audio out, you can connect each device via RCA cable, headphone cable, or an adapter for one to the other, to those three inputs on the speaker system, for your cheapest possible solution. So a mix of these cables should do, hopefully? Let us know what you think:

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B00NO73MUQ/ref=zg_bs_597566_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=77XCX74SBHRRD7D85Q1V

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-105597-3-Feet-Premium-Stereo/dp/B0094A1F3S/ref=zg_bs_597566_6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=77XCX74SBHRRD7D85Q1V

https://www.amazon.com/MOCREO-Splitter-1-Mini-Stereo-Adapter/dp/B015J4OKZW/ref=zg_bs_597546_11?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=2Q1JZS2CEWWGYGWWCR6R

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-1-5ft-Premium-22AWG-Cable/dp/B003L1717K/ref=zg_bs_597546_19?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=2Q1JZS2CEWWGYGWWCR6R

EDIT: and here's some extensions also, in case you grab any of the above and they're too short:

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-Female-Stereo-Audio/dp/B01CNAUYBY/ref=sr_1_3?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1481742465&sr=1-3&keywords=headphone+extension

https://www.amazon.com/CableWholesale-6-Feet-Cblwhl-Extension-10R1-02206/dp/B000I1GZ0U/ref=sr_1_1?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1481742502&sr=1-1&keywords=rca+extension

EDIT 2: Can you send us the brand/model # of your TV so we can check out the inputs/outputs? Thanks!

u/simonhez · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

well that is annoying... I mean it is rare but it might be busted, at least you know your sound card is fine because it still works with the rear I/Os

might want to invest in something like this ;) https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-Female-Stereo-Audio/dp/B01CNAUYBY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1492891747&sr=8-3&keywords=audio+extension+cable

u/HeavyMetalKoda · 1 pointr/Twitch

Yeah! Honestly I totally agree. I bought a PS4 to play the new spiderman game and it was definitely frustrating when I started my stream to have viewers say that there was no game audio.

I just used a headphone audio/microphone splitter cable i got with my headset and plugged in directly into my external monitor speakers and it works great. Heck some monitors even have a head phone jack directly into the monitor itself so if that's an option try that.

Something like this should work if you dont have anything https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-Female-Stereo-Audio/dp/B01CNAUYBY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1536790471&sr=8-3&keywords=headphone+extension+cable

u/dragonx254 · 1 pointr/NoStupidQuestions

Question for you: That box that the red connector is for. Does it do anything for you (like do you have speakers or something hooked up)? Or are you literally just using earbuds when using the computer? Because if you're just using earbuds (like standard 3.5mm headphones or whatever) then you can likely just get an audio extension cable like this one and just plug that in where, in your video, the green connection is. And then plug your earbuds into that.

If you need one that also supports your earbud's mic, then get something like this and it'll do the same thing (The headphone icon one would go into the green port, the mic one goes into the red port).

u/iAmMitten1 · 1 pointr/letsplay

Some modern TVs have a 3.5mm headphone jack located somewhere among the ports. You could buy a 3.5mm extender cable and listen via headphones. Depending on your platform, you may be able to route the audio both your controller and your TV. Then you could listen through the headphones and down down the TV volume. You'd have to play around with your TV and console audio settings, though.

u/I3igAl · 1 pointr/headphones

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CNAUYBY
 
two of these.

u/dajokaman759 · 1 pointr/modernwarfare

I can recommend you to buy a USB Audio adapter and plug it to the PS4 and a Headphone jack extender

u/Eszaa · 1 pointr/buildapc

hey man shit happens. if you don't want to go through the trouble of taking it apart and RMA the case, just buy a 3.5mm cable extenstion and plug it in using the back motherboard plug you already said that works.

u/diab64 · 1 pointr/buildapc

To answer your question, I really don't know, other than contacting DeepCool or searching eBay.

That said, a workaround would be to purchase a 3.5mm extension cable and run it from the headphone jack on the back of your case:

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-Female-Stereo-Audio/dp/B01CNAUYBY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1510219074&sr=8-3&keywords=3.5mm+extension

u/uradonkey003 · 1 pointr/techsupport

Can you use a different AUX cord to check if that is the issue? This adapter might also help as I think your headphone's aux cord is permanently attached.

u/zaylivinglive · 1 pointr/techsupport

You don't need to but a new set of headphones at all, you can buy an extension like this and plug it up to the back
Or you could try something like this which would allow you to stay connected in the front. It works by removing the ground which is causing all of the static.

u/johnson_n · 1 pointr/headphones

Would this solution work? It lists the length at 1 meter (3.3 feet).

https://www.amazon.com/MillSO-3-5mm-Jack-Adapter-CTIA/dp/B071V61PB8

You can add an extension if it's still too short.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-Female-Stereo-Audio/dp/B01CNAUYBY

u/Ahnteis · 1 pointr/buildapc

I'm assuming you have 2 cables -- 1 for headphones, one for mic.
You'd need a long bit of shrinkwrap big enough to go around both (or just zip-tie them every few feet). Without seeing your headphones, I'll have to stick to generalities. ;)

For the extensions, you just use something like:
https://smile.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-Female-Stereo-Audio/dp/B01CNAUYBY/
(The mic is probably just a mono version of that).

Plug the extensions into your computer. Route the wires to front of desk. Then use something to mount the ends nicely under the front of your desk. Could just tape them together and use some nylon strapping to hold the ends in place (easy way) or could make a nice wood or other enclosure to hold them.