Reddit reviews Anker Unibody Aluminum 3-Port USB 3.0 and Gigabit Ethernet Hub with 1.3ft / 40cm USB 3.0 Cable [Ethernet Port RTL8153 Chipset + USB Ports VL812 Chipset]

Yep, but silver..

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PC07T02/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Worked as soon as I plugged it in too. Was dreading having to spend $250 on the dock..
Wait, it's $299 AUD. Looks like I saved $270..

Older Thunderbolt 1 and 2 devices, such as those designed for Apple Mac products, would need an adapter to work with Thunderbolt 3, since Thunderbolt 1 and 2 used Mini DisplayPort (mDP) ports while Thunderbolt 3 switched to USB Type-C.

From slowest to fastest, you have:

• 480 Mbits/s: USB 2.0
  
• 5 Gbits/s: USB 3.0 (aka "USB 3.1 Gen 1", confusingly)
  
• 10 Gbits/s: USB 3.1 Gen 2 (aka true USB 3.1)
  
• 40 Gbits/s: Thunderbolt 3
  
  That's for speed. For the shape of the plug, you can either have USB Type-A (traditional USB shape) or Type-C (the new shape). There's not necessarily any connection between the shape of the plug and speed, though on the XPS 15 9550 the only Type-C port is a Thunderbolt 3 / USB 3.1 Gen 2 port, while the other Type-A ports are USB 3.0. The new MacBook and Chromebook Pixel have USB 3.1 Gen 1 (equivalent to USB 3.0 speed) Type-C ports, while many smartphones coming out with Type-C ports are still working at USB 2.0 speeds.
  
  USB 3.0 or above would be preferable, so that gigabit Ethernet is supported. You can get one that uses the Type-C port if you want, but it will still work at the same speed (USB 3.0) as the normal Type-A version. Adapters that take advantage of USB 3.1, much less Thunderbolt 3, are still rather rare. In any case, using Thunderbolt 3 just for Ethernet would be overkill: better to save the Thunderbolt 3 port for a full-scale dock or an external graphics card.
  
  So, enough background. Some options:
  
  
• AmazonBasics USB 3.0 to 10/100/1000 Gigabit Ethernet Adapter ($16.95)
  
• Anker Unibody Aluminum 3-Port USB 3.0 and Gigabit Ethernet Hub ($26.99)
  
• Anker USB-C to 3-Port USB 3.0 Hub with Ethernet Adapter for USB Type-C Devices ($27.99)
  
  The two Anker devices also include a three port USB 3.0 hub, for connecting other stuff.

I got a usb hub that also has an ethernet port on it. Specifically this one: Amazon Link

and it's worked great so far. I didn't do one with usb-c and passthrough charging just because i couldn't find one with high reviews/reasonable cost

I have the older version of the Anker hub. It works fine on my SP3.

I personally use this, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PC07T02/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fRgKzbGQK0WSY
It's metal so it's durable as hell, USB 3.0 so data speeds are quick as well as giving you more USB ports, and the ethernet was plug and play so I didn't need to install any drivers. I've had it for half a year and I'm pretty happy with it.

1. ​
   
   I recommend:
   
   

• Dell Premier Display for the color profiles, and the screen overlays while dragging apps that add an extra layer of app window auto-sizing. Do note you might have issues with automatic color profile changes during Netflix and other fast color-changing media playback, which I have yet to solve even after browsing the web and attempting suggested solutions
  
• Dell Connect as it brings something that even Google or Vysor have yet to achieve - seamless smartphone integration. It's tantalizing that Dell has the best phone connectivity app around. The fact I am suggesting in keeping it, to what would otherwise be factory crapware, goes to show how good it performs
  
• DO NOT INSTALL BIOS 1.3.X+ unless you want to lose S3 sleep forever. thank M$ for that one.
  
• Dell Power Manager (or whatever it's called) is essential for achieving the best performance on fans and some components (CPU/GPU/Memory), and the opposite too if you want the chillest, quietest setup, which is unfortunate from Dell to not let the OS take control from. MAX and MIN fan RPM are only achieved through settings on this utility
  
• Every other driver/utility you can stay away from. Dell SupportAssist is nice for checking service tag and other data on the screen, but you can do that a number of other ways. Submitting suppor tickets by phone is preferred IMHO. Dell digital Delivery and Dell update are useless, and so is everything else not mentioned
  
• all other drivers, either let Windows decide or go to each individual device OEM support page and install what you think might have more impact (I suggest Killer for Wifi, LAN for whatever is in your hub, Nvidia for the dGPU, Chipset drivers and iGPU from Intel.
  
  2 .
  
  Do these two (Dell BIST) tests (Dell ePSA). Also run your benchmark of choice (I suggest Unigine Superposition) while running HWInfo and see your Avg. and MAX, temperatures for CPU/GPU, SSD and Dell Chassis components (you need to allow extra sensors on HWInfo), and check throttling flags too. No matter the results, I recommend installing Throttlestop, disabling Turbo Boost for the profile you will be using most, and getting comfortable with its usage, and setting it up to launch at user logon (using Task Scheduler) A repaste might also help, and the same goes for undervolting (either with TS or Intel XTU). Some people are also adding thermal pads to VRM's either to the chassis or to the heatsink (better) for avoiding VRM reaching 100's. This used to be more relevant to 9560/9550, and I am not sure of its benefits on the 9570. If you need help with TS, message me.
  
  I suggest setting these up on BIOS: "Force S3 sleep", F7 key for "no emissions mode", half brightness on battery and do a solid checkup of whatever you feel is better for you on the extensive optionned BIOS that Dell supplies. Once again, do not install 1.3.X+!
  
  ​
  
  3.
  
  I would advise on a USB 3.0 Type A hub with 3- 4 USB 3.0 Type A ports and Gbit LAN like this (I have this, but apparently it went away from all amazon stores since I bought it last month).
  
  Using this kind of dongle has 4 advantages vs dock and USB-C/TB3 dongles:
  
  
• does not take away the single USB-C/Thunderbolt 3 port
  
• doubles Type A ports from the original 2 (since you have to use one, a 3 USB hub effectively adds 2)
  
• has GBit LAN
  
• it's a lot cheaper and more portable than the TB3 swiss army-type dongles available everywhere, and you can always carry an extra TB3 to DP/mDP cable, if HDMI won't suit your display needs
  
  From extensive testing, my Anker hub's LAN port (and likely the new model I suggest) doesn't seem hampered by USB port usage as some report, nor does LAN usage degrades USB devices. I manage ~90mbps on LAN downloading Win 10 from MS servers while simulstaneously doing and external HDD file transfer at around 30mbps (almost the HDD cap for the type of data I was using). My network cap is 100'sh mbps to the WWW. I still suggest using the 3 ports on this for KB/Mouse and maybe a device that isn't constantly using high data, since you're already using this for LAN. Just use the other XPS USB port (or TB3) for higher performance stuff instead. I also had no shielding problems as many users reported for my model.
  
  If you're going for actual >1Gbps (10Gbit) performance on the LAN, I would rather suggest you look up dedicated high-performance TB3 LAN hardware such as this. But at present, that will certainly make you lose the TB3 port as there is no LAN solution with display options that performs as well as dedicated, single port LAN over TB3. But I'm sure if you need that kind of performance you wont care much for having to drive displays through HDMI and USB3 alone. Or you could buy an external PCI-E TB3 enclosure and add a PCI-E lan card for cheaper than the Sonnet I suggest.
  
  ​
  
  4.
  
  About WiFi: I got an Intel 8265 replacement after EXTENSIVE complaints to CS on why my bluetooth devices would degrade WiFi N router speeds to 1/3 or worse (and also made BT devices stutter), and my results, unfortunately, are that the Intel card has exactly the same issues. I blame either the XPS's antenna placement, metal build or bad shielding affecting the way it interacts with other 2.4ghz technoliges, because I haven't noticed this in my other WiFi N-bound laptops and smartphones on the same router/network.

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-Portable-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00PC07T02/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1511936038&sr=1-6&keywords=anker+ethernet+adapter

kinda expensive but you can use ethernet cable

That information is false.

Like I said, I figured it all out already (above your post)

I've talked to someone with the same model Surface Book 2 as me and they're able to achieve 144hz with a single monitor using a DisplayPort to USB-C cable.

Going off of that, I've based my setup as such:

1. Monitor
   
   https://pixiogaming.com/products/new-px277
   
   
2. Cable
   
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075V27G2R/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   
3. Extra Ports
   
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PC07T02/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   This setup will allow me to do 1440p @ 144Hz, Gigabit Ethernet, hookup for my Wireless Gaming Mouse and Mechanical Keyboard, and charging (through the surface port)

Don't mean to be rude but gotta check: Make sure you're plugging it into the correct Ethernet port on your Google Wifi, you can only use one of them for internet IN. Also, can you try a different ethernet cable?

Not a Cox customer but just throwing out idea, if they have any type of like landing page that pops up with terms to accept or anything similar, you'll need to plug in a computer to your puck's ethernet and accept those before setting up the modem.

You might look into buying a cheap USB to Ethernet dongle or dock, just to have around for situations like this or for when travelling.

That said, I'm pretty sure Cox is just a standard cable provider right? Like Xfinity?

If they don't have the said splash page you have to agree to before use, then maybe you aren't supposed to be using the puck's default DHCP setting? Or something similar?

Again, picking up one of these will help you narrow down the issue because you can try just seeing if your Surface can get internet directly from the modem (make sure to always unplug the modem from power before switching devices) and you can also see if there is a ToS you have to agree to or something.

• An adapter from Anker, a recommended brand
  
• The step up version, just better aesthetics for your Surface
  
• The cheapest option
  
• One that does more than just Ethernet if you want more bang for your buck. Maybe you want more USB ports on your Surface sometimes?
  
  Anyways, report back with:
  
  

1. Does connecting your Surface directly to your modem work?
   
2. Does connecting your Surface through the Wifi puck work before you set up the Wi-Fi?

Anker Unibody Aluminum 3-Port USB 3.0 and Gigabit Ethernet Hub with 1.3ft / 40cm USB 3.0 Cable [Ethernet Port RTL8153 Chipset + USB Ports VL812 Chipset] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PC07T02/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GjhODbJXDTD2B

This is the one that worked for me. A different anker one that was black with a proprietary hookup to the hub did not work. Is this the one you have?This is for a regular usb port.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-Portable-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00PC07T02/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1537731574&sr=1-4&keywords=anker+usb+hub+with+ethernet

Hate to say it, but I think that article you linked has it right. (I saw another thread on this subreddit referencing a similar issue, but couldn't find it again.)

The article I mention noted that any device which uses a dongle relies on radio frequency (RF) communication, not Bluetooth, so the USB version of the port the dongle is plugged into is more or less irrelevant. The issue causing the choppy performance has to do with the USB hub being improperly shielded - it is the EM interference that is causing the chop.

I have experienced the same thing myself with my Anker hub and my Logitech unifying wireless keyboard/mouse combo. I simply had to stop using it with my surface, and instead picked up a USB switch which allows me to use my wired keyboard/mouse on my desktop and Surface as needed. Somewhat inelegant, but effective.

[Is it this one?](http://www.amazon.com/Anker-Unibody-Aluminum-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00PC07T02/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1458123879&sr=8-10&keywords=anker+usb+hub
) As far as I can tell it's just the exact same product as the one I've just had to send back, with a different name slapped on it. The one I've been using may be a Chinese ripoff using the same mould or something, though.

I'm an MSc Biology student doing pharmaceutical bioprospecting (lots of chemistry, toxicology, pharmacology, molecular bio, and microbio). I have an SP3 and I LOVE it. It is hands down my favourite piece of tech that I have ever bought. It makes my life as a grad student 100x easier. Also, mine is an SP3 i7, 8gb RAM, 256 gb SSD HD (with a 128gb SD card to expand my memory).

First off, I put an STM DUX Rugged Fit SP3 case on my SP3. It makes me much more comfortable about carrying it with me all the time. It doesn't affect the fuctionality of the kickstand, keyboard, cameras, or buttons, and has cooling vents. Hands down best one I found.

I also bought a miniDisplayPort to DVI/HDMI/VGA adapter so I can plug my SP3 into any projector or screen. Very handy.
I also bought an Anker 3-Port USB Hub w/ Gigabit Ethernet Port so that I can use Ethernet cables if need-be, and also gives me 3 USB ports to use instead of one.

Now for software! As expected, I also run the typical Microsoft Office Suite (Office 365 University).


I use Microsoft OneNote for most of my dry lab notes and for roughing out protocols/experimental designs. Its amazing for having a lot of different data together in one place. I can intermix pictures/figures of my results (such as TLC plates, mass spec readings from LC-MS, cell viability assays from TC culture, flow cytometry graphs from expression analysis, etc etc) with hand-written or typed notes. It's great for planning out experiments and designing protocols too, as I can just screen grab and insert diagrams of 96 well plates, assay layouts, etc. It makes things much faster than writing it all out. I then just print out my protocols and keep them in a binder in the wet lab. I then reference those protocols in my wet lab hand-written book. I bring my SP3 into the wet lab on occasion, but not too often as I have to decontaminate it and I'm not a fan of getting it covered in ethanol.

The screen grab feature (double clicking the top of the pen, then selecting the area you want to "grab") is incredibly handy for quickly grabbing and inserting a figure or something from a publication into your notes. It's very well implemented.

For PDF reading, annotation, and analysis I use Drawboard PDF. You have to pay for it ($12 CAD I think it was?) but it's unbelievable. The user interface is amazing with the pen and touch input. I used to print out papers to read them but now I just read, highlight, and annotate them in Drawboard. Awesome program. You can also create PDF's in it which is nice. All in all it's a very full-featured program and worth the money.

I also run GraphPad Prism 6 with no issues whatsoever. The SP3 can handle it without breaking a sweat.

I run R Statistical Analysis and R Studio for my stats, again handles it no problem.

I also run WinMDI and FlowingSoftware (flow cytometry data analysis) and it runs those without even having the fan come on.

I have Zotero and EndNote X7, both of them run great and work very very well with all of the microsoft suite of programs.

Edit: I've also used BioEdit and MEGA6 for a bit of sequence editing, aligning, and BLASTing. Nothing too intense though. The only drawback is that doing sequence work on a small screen can get tedious. A nice 20"+ monitor is way easier.

I use it for teaching a lot too, as I can walk students through problems in either OneNote or Plumbago, then save my rough work and email it to them, post it to D2L, etc etc.

For a more performance-oriented comparison, I'll point out that I also heavily run Adobe Photoshop CS6, Adobe Lightroom 5, and Sony Vegas Pro 13 for my photography and video hobbies. It can run these programs flawlessly too. My other computer is a Dell Precision w/ Intel i7 vPro and my SP3 does very well in comparison to that beast. Obviously if you're doing something very intense for 4 hours the fan will be on and it'll get warm, but it has handled everything I've thrown at it so far.

Also, the battery life is pretty good. I can't complain. In an average day of in-lab work, attending seminars, and teaching with it, I can get 6-7 hours of battery life out of it. If I'm not multi-tasking as much I can get more than that, and if I'm working it really hard with high brightness I get 5ish hours. All in all pretty impressive for such a powerful little device though. It also charges pretty fast.

Edit: spelling.

Step 1
Buy some USB 3 to Gigabit adaptors that have a USB 3 hub built in. That way you have gigabit ethernet AND still have USB ports. example

Step 2
Buy a single copy of Acronis True Image (2017/2018)
If you have some time, watch Newegg for rebate deals that make it nearly free- either way, it'll be WELL worth the full retail price if you need it right away.

Step 3- install it on any PC. Create bootable "rescue media". (a tiny USB is good enough- 1GB even is plenty) Using it, you can boot and image these machines from a USB drive or a network location.

Step 4- Build [One] "master image" machine. Make it exactly how you want it. Applications, etc- and FULLY update it- then Sysprep it. There are tons of guides on Sysprep all over the web. It's a built-in Windows utility that "generalize"-es the install for use on other machines.

Step 5- Boot this machine from USB (using the usb 3 hub/ethernet) and "image" the entire drive somewhere.

Now "restore" that image to any/all of the PCs in question. Once booted after imaging, you'll get the "OOBE" (out-of-box-experience) where you can name the PC, choose settings, etc- and all of the apps already installed. Activate and ship.

DONE!