Reddit reviews CCTREE NEMA 17 Stepper Steel and Rubber Vibration Dampers with M3 Screw Upgrade for Creality Ender 3 Ender 3 pro CR-10 CR-10S 3D Printer,CNC (Pack of 3)

I've owned the Ender 3 for a few months now and have made a number of upgrades, both purchased and printed. Here's a list of what I have purchased and printed, sorted by importance/usefulness.

 

Purchased Parts:

1. EZABL - An automatic bed leveling solution that has worked really well for me. TH3D's firmware and documentation are top notch. Once I dialed it in I've had no issues with bed leveling or adhesion. Also note, TH3D is an American company and Tim, the owner, is even a mod of this sub!
   
   
2. Stepper Motor Dampers - A great way to quiet down the printer. My bedroom and office are connected without an intervening door and the dampers allow me to print overnight and still get get to sleep. Some users have had issues with stepper motors running hot with the dampers installed, but I've had no trouble at all, even after 16+ hr prints.
   
   
3. 5015 Blower Fan - For use with the Petsfang Duct, see below.
   
   
   
4. Assorted M3 Screws - If you're going to be making mods to your printer, you're eventually going to need different sized screws. Having various lengths on hand is super helpful when trying to mount a new part.
   
    
   
   Printed Parts:
   
   
5. Filament Guide Arm - This has helped a lot with keeping the filament feeding smooth and preventing under-extrusion issues. There is a more popular model on thingiverse, but I found this version to be stronger and more stable.
   
   
6. Petsfang Cooling Fan Duct - An extremely popular replacement for the part cooling duct and fan. This creates much more even cooling around the filament as its extruded, providing better bridging and better overall print quality. There is a version using a replacement 5015 blower fan, as I have used, and there's a version called the "Bullseye" that uses the stock fan. I chose to replace the stock fan because mine was starting to rattle.
   
   
7. Tool Holder - It sounds frivolous, but having the tools you need right at hand can be a big help in saving a print or performing trouble shooting. Definitely a must have.
   
   
8. LCD Rear Cover - Protects the circuit board behind the LCD, which is exposed from the factory. If you have children like I do, this is a must.
   
   
9. Cable Chain - Routs the various cables to their destinations in a clean way. Looks super cool. Not necessary, but definitely fun. Note, there is an X-axis cable chain setup available, but I found it made excessive noise and wasn't worth the trouble.
   
   
10. Fan Shroud - Protects the main board fan from bits of filament falling down into the casing.
    
    
11. Storage Drawer - A handy little drawer that slides in next to the LCD. I store things like alcohol swabs, razor blades, and other random tools in it.
    
     
    
    Future Upgrades:
    
    Spool Roller - One issue I've found is that the stock spool holder requires excessive force from the extruder to unwind filament. A replacement spool roller with bearings should reduce the friction significantly and produce more even extrusion.
    
    Metal Extruder - A common problem with the Ender 3 is that it fails to maintain proper tension on the extruder gear, which leads to failure to feed and poor extrusion. An all-metal extruder has been known to fix the issue.
    
    
    
    
    
    

Extruder: get a microswiss hotend for it will be able to print flexible and other materials.
Parts cooling: Upgrade to the petsfang 5015 mod for better print cooling.
Auto bed leveling: Get the TH3D ezabl sensor for great bed leveling.
Other mods: motor dampers to reduce noise and vibration
To smoothers to smooth prints
Raspberry pi for octoprint
All metal extruder
Capricorn tubing
Hope I could help 😀
Links:
micro swiss hotend
petsfang part
ezabl sensor
motor dampers
tl smoothers
octoprint link
all metal extuder
capricorn tubing



Also this is what my petsfang with sensor looks like. https://i.imgur.com/sQahB69.jpg

Nice ! I can see you've done your homework lol, all good choices. I'll just give you a few suggestions then since you've pretty much got it covered. The springs I used on my enders were these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FY47BX7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 You might need longer screws, not sure about that, but you can get those at any hardware store, probably around 35mm m3 screws should do the trick. And the motor vibration dampers i used were these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C7FRLNX/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 you don't need them on the z-axis, just the x and y. As far as smoothers go, I think the creality boards currently use a4988 stepper drivers, so you'd probably not see any benefit from tl smoothers. I'd definitely recommend the glass bed, since ender 3 print beds are almost always warped to some extent which can make leveling the bed a real pain in the ass. The hardened steel nozzle is cool, just be aware it's not as good at transferring heat to the filament as a brass nozzle, so it prints slower, and it's only useful if you're planning on using abrasive filament like carbon fiber or glow in the dark filament. Pla, petg, wood pla, and abs don't need it. You can actually print anything you want with a brass nozzle, you'd just replace it more often depending on how much abrasive filament you use. Also, don't know which fan shroud you're planning on, but the bullseye is very good and it uses the stock fan : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2759439

Sorry about the wall of text lol.

Nozzles

PTFE. This is the cadillac option. Cheaper tubing is very cheap, like $5 for 5 feet or something.

I didn't mention these as I haven't installed them, but stepper dampeners. Please see the stickied thread on /r/ender3 about these, if you want to order them!

The springs I ordered. Note: I couldn't quite replace the one where the wires attach to the bed. I didn't play around too much, I just left that one on there. The other three have held solid, and the next time I'm adjusting my bed, I'll try to put that one on there as well.

Hope that helps!

Edit: Reddit markdown not liking my links, I'll try to fix them

Dampers installed pretty easy on the X axis, same as the 3 I used to have. The Y axis is a bit more work which I posted above. I used this exact kind.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C7FRLNX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Second - some Amazon links for the upgrade pieces I mention:

Springs - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SDDHYN4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bowden Tube - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B079P92HN9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Couplings - https://smile.amazon.com/Dorhea-Straight-Pneumatic-Fittings-Accessories/dp/B07NSRCH2W/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=3d+printer+fitting&qid=1574436375&sr=8-15

Extruder - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B079JZ374W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

PEI Sheet - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GSJSDWR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Stepper Motor Dampeners - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C7FRLNX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bootloader Flashing Kit - https://smile.amazon.com/Gulfcoast-Robotics-Bootloader-Flashing-Duplicator/dp/B07S5BBLKM/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=arduino+uno+ender+3+kit&qid=1574436535&s=industrial&sr=1-3

Note that I didn't buy this flashing kit, but this one seems to have everything you need to get a bootloader onboard the Ender. What happens is you go through a bunch of steps to attach this so the printer and then put a bootloader onto the Ender 3 board. You only have to do that one time, then you can update the firmware as often as you want - typically via a USB cable. I have Octoprint installed, so I can flash my firmware on my basement printers from my upstairs computer using wifi. Super easy and handy.

These are the ones I bought, and they seem to work fine.

I replaced the spring belt tensioner and just zip tied the belts to stay tightened and it works great. On the Y axis I have an adjustable tensioner I printed. Planning on making one for the X axis soon.

+1 for putting a glass bed on the printer. Also the stock extruder gear setup SUCKS! Go ahead and get an all-metal one because that plastic arm will break eventually. The debate rages on about putting sound dampeners on because some folks advocate just replacing the drive controllers (more $$$). Personally I put the dampers on and am really happy with the noise reduction, Also, the fans used stock are all sleeve bearing type. Not a good choice for the hotend which is constantly moving. I say run them until they get noisy/fail and then replace them with some good ball bearing fans (remember if you order replacements that they are 24v, not 12v). Oh and I also put stiffer springs under the bed as well. (See links below)

Links are what I used, there are many options out there....

Glass bed
Creality 3D Printer Platform Heated Bed Build Surface Tempered Glass Plate for Ender 3/Ender 3 Pro 3D Printer 235x235x3mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FSM8DK9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_CvzBCbDCS9RHE

All Metal Extruder Gear
Luxnwatts Creality Aluminum MK8 Extruder Drive Feed Upgraded Replacement for CR-10 CR-10S S4 S5 3D Printer Part https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076PFHM1F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_gwzBCb17T787N

Noise dampers
CCTREE NEMA 17 Stepper Steel and Rubber Vibration Dampers with M3 Screw for Creality CR-10,10S 3D Printer,CNC (Pack of 3) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C7FRLNX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_.wzBCb0ANF2QJ

Stiffer bed springs
uxcell 8mm OD 20mm Long Light Load Compression Mould Die Spring Yellow 10pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013G5I4US/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_ZxzBCbGVJ10CA

Yep - right off of Amazon.

​

Stepper Dampers and TL-Smoothers.

Wow, thanks for going though that!

Though I'm going with the advice that almost everyone is saying on this post and wait for the printer to arrive.

That said, I'm going to buy the dampeners anyway because I'm in an apartment that the walls are thinner than most apartments in my area. I know that it's a 3-5 db difference based on what I read, but the lower the sound, the better.

I'm going with these dampeners

​

I'm also going to get the M3 Scews anyway as well just to have spares.

> My glass was warped. I used the tape it came with to flatten it but then got the mirror.

if the glass bed is warped when it arrives, I'll get a mirror tile after making sure that the printer is working fine.

> Mine came with large knobs already. And the print bed strain relief for the wires.

I've been told now that this is the case. Though I did buy this from the GearBest US Warehouse so I don't know if what they have is the latest. though I guess I'll find out on Thursday.

> I'm still using the stock clips. Or you could print new ones.

I wasn't aware that stock came with clips! So I'm going to skip getting clips until the printer arrives.

> Maybe. I've been using a mirror from Home Depot and it's been ok. I saw the creality magnetic mounted surface was only $22 on amazon so I actually ordered that today.

Can you let me know how that goes? I was wondering about those too.

> Mine came with the upgraded extruder that works better with TPU and such. The holes already started wearing larger though where the filament fed so I got a $20 aluminum setup.

did you order those upgrades or are they on the printer?

> I'm using this new hot end vent ring too this week and been liking it. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2912394

Dumb question but are you using PLA or ABS for that vent ring? Just curious.

​

Thank you so much for the advice!

I just installed these cheap dampers, like the ones you linked.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C7FRLNX

The instructions I followed were here, and include good instructions for the extruder damper installation as well, if you choose to go that route:

https://letsprint3d.net/2018/07/07/how-to-install-stepper-motor-dampers-ender-3/

I did not bother with heatsinks, as the temp increase has been nominal, around 3-4c which is only 5-7 degrees F. This will still shorten the life of the stepper a bit, I am sure, but I doubt it will be terribly significant and for me the trade off is well worth it.

Additionally, I have noticed zero issues with my prints. I typically print at 0.2mm, but occasionally at 0.1 and my prints are still silky smooth at either res, enough that the tiny seam zits are the only defects I'm seeing. It did not effect precision either. My calibration items are usually within .00-.02mm in any direction, which is well within margin. That said, I calibrate regularly and at every filament change to keep things working as well as I can.

Did you install dampers on the steppers (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C7FRLNX/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1)? I started having that problem after doing that upgrade. I don't understand why it has the effect, but if you build up the "finger" on the switch with several layers of tape you should be able to get it working well enough again to print out a real bumper (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3003918)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C7FRLNX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6zfOBbMX9DT8P

This is the one I bought and then watched a vid on YouTube and installed them. They worked for me so I don’t know if there’s better quality ones out there or not

Specifically I'm talking about these dampers:

https://www.amazon.com/CCTREE-Stepper-Vibration-Dampers-Creality/dp/B07C7FRLNX/ref=pd_ybh_a_52?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=JG0WKDDM0VJE0BSHN7EF

I see instructions online about adding these to the stepper motors in order to make them a bit more quiet. The problem though is that my gears don't have the set screw shown in the screenshot there. So therefore I can't move the gear along the shaft. The result is that my gear is not aligned with the belt anymore once the damper is installed.

How do I fix this? I can't seem to pull the gear off by hand. I dunno if it's glued on or what.

I put these aluminum spacers on my Ender 3 and CR-10S. They worked fine.

I already have stepper dampers and those solved any noise/vibrations I was worried about.

I should mention that I quit using glass beds, so I'm slinging around a half a kilo less mass than you might be.

I switched to this build surface directly on the aluminum plate and I'll never use glass again. Mesh-bed leveling solves the warped bed problem and prints stick like GLUE until I give them a solid tap.

1. Motor stopper dampeners. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C7FRLNX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 These will greatly reduce sound on your machine.
   
2. X and Y motor supports Y = https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2845950 X = https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2793110 with dampeners. This'll help alleviate belt tension on the motor/belts and quiet the pritner even more. You'll need some M3x40mm screws for this.
   
3. Flash the firmware with Marlin and enable the heat runaway options. This will stop the printer from burning down your house if a critical error occurs. https://www.printedsolid.com/blogs/news/installing-marlin-1-1-9-on-your-cr-10s-with-mesh-bed-leveling-thermal-protection-better-menu-layout-and-finally-power-resume
   
4. Add a Mirror tile to your bed. Most CR10s beds bow in the middle. Mirrors are totally flat, so just make a mirror your new print bed/print bed base.
   
5. Print the Petsfang upgrade https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2759439 and get a Noctua 40mm fan. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072JK9GX6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and a 50mm blower fan https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071WMHNG5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 You can choose if you want the 10 or 20mm noctua fans. Petsfang page says all the screws you'll need.
   
6. Print some support stuff and get some rods to make supports. This'll reduce your print height by 20mm, but it'll greatly stabilize your printer when you do large prints, alleivating weird artifacting when the print gets higher up. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2805226
   
7. Get a better Boaing tube. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079P92HN9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (I'm not sure if this is the best out there.)
   
8. A steel wear resistant nozzle if you wanna print things other than PLA/TEPG.
   
9. A PEI plate to make it much easier to get prints off. Preferably a flexible one. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RDQF7KQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
10. A spool mount https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2440814 which will lets you use bigger spools all while greatly reducing the amount of strain on the extruder and the noise that the filliment makes when it turns.
    
11. Control box cooling fan and base. I've yet to install this one myself as I'm not sure how to wire up the fans, but this'll greatly reduce fan noise and keep the control box super cool. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2729888 It'll also remove the problem where if the print goes over 300mm in height where the filiment can sometimes snap due to strain.
    
12. A BLTouch to make bed leveling automatic more or less. I've yet to install this myself. https://www.amazon.com/ANTCLABS-BLTouch-Leveling-Premium-Extension/dp/B076PQG1FF/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=bltouch&qid=1562832293&s=industrial&sr=1-3
    
    ​
    
    Anyone got any others?