Reddit reviews Clarion XC1410 300W XC Series Micro 4-Channel Class-D Compact Design Car Amplifier
We found 11 Reddit comments about Clarion XC1410 300W XC Series Micro 4-Channel Class-D Compact Design Car Amplifier. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
XC Series 4-Channel Class D Car AmplifierRMS Power Rating: 4 ohms: 50 watts x 4 chan. / 2 ohms: 75 watts x 4 chan.Pulse Width Modulated MOSFET power supplySpeaker-level (high-level) inputs3-way protection circuitry (thermal, overload, and speaker short protection)
Some more photos in this album: http://imgur.com/a/cOpga
I can describe what I did if there's interest. I have since replaced it with another setup. This is in a box for now.
EDIT: Here's some background information for those of you interested.
These are the components used:
I have a factory Inifinity system. It requires, believe it or not, speaker level inputs. I was not interested in redoing the amplifier and speakers at the time. So I needed a way to get a signal from the tablet to the factory amplifier. After reading lots of other accounts, I chose the Logitech Wireless speaker adapter based off the remarks regarding it's sound quality. It also has both an RCA and a 3.5MM out and they can be used simultaneously. It needed to be powered via 5v so I bought the step down converter. A better approach would have been to use a power supply designed for car stereo installations. It would have helped reduce noise and some other issues. From there, the signal needed to be amplified to speaker level inputs. I originally tested a PAC-OEM1 with an output voltage of around 7v. It was barely audible at full blast. I moved onto the Clarion XC1410. It gets LOUD. No doubt about it. I had to set a Tasker profile to automatically reduce volume to a certain level anytime the tablet connected to the bluetooth receiver. With the loud came some noise though. I spent quite a while chasing an alternator whine. Turns out that a short, local ground and a large, direct connection to the battery would substantially reduce noise. ALSO, 3.5MM jacks are connected in some to a ground within the device. This introduced a ground loop. Took me a while to realize that when the 3.5MM jack was plugged in, noise was increased. I removed it and used a splitter from the RCA cables. This had the added benefit of reducing the volume and eliminating the noise. Everything plugs into a aftermarket - factory harness that I wired myself (2002 - 2004 compatible). The real feat was building the tablet cradle. I purchased a $10 case from Amazon and hacked it up. I also scored the black bezel from a junkyard Jeep. The bezel was cut using a dremel until the case sat perfectly. I attached initially using super glue. Then I filled the gaps and reinforced it with a black silicone from GE. LOTS of it. It was stout. I finally added the frame you see in the pictures. The metal frame was really not required but I was banking on longevity. It had the added benefit of allowing me to mount magnets (To hold smaller devices in place like a phone). I ran a 90* charging cable through the grommet on the far right. The tablet case had some material removed from the lip so I could more easily insert and remove it while mounted.
I posed an incomplete writeup on JeepForum: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f20/wj-tablet-bluetooth-audio-amp-speaker-installation-questions-1941961/
After I got the noises ironed out, I rocked it for a while and really enjoyed it. A bluetooth OBDII reader fed it diagnostic information. Lux did great for brightness control. Tasker for profiles. Then I accidentally cracked the N7 screen and the party was over. It just so happened that someone was selling an AppRadio setup the next day so I scooped it up and am running that with an MK809iii now. This old setup is being sold on Ebay and Jeepforum if anyone is so inclined.
maybe add a powerpack and call it a day ? easy to install / remove(most of the time ) once you sell the car .clarion has one for around 90$ and its 50x4 rms at 4 ohms class d . i'm talking about something like this
http://www.amazon.com/Clarion-Electronics-XC1410-4-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00B43LKV0/ref=pd_cp_e_0
as for speakers infinty,jbl both have some nice stuff that will be fine on stock american bass has a decent set too and can be had pretty cheap .i
this is one of those times where i would recommend one of those small amps... like the alpine powerpack or the clarion xc1410 ... ~$100ish
normally i say do the head unit.. since you dont want to change out the factory unit.. extra power is going to help you out, and the amp is tiny enough to stick anywhere. it should really wake up stock speakers.
The sub woofer amp is actually a stock amp for the car and I don't think it has adjustable gain. Same with the amp I purchased to run the mid ranges. It's small and I don't believe it has adjustable gain either.
Edit: the amp I purchased is this one.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B43LKV0
I have the Infinity Reference 6030cs up front and the non coaxial version in the rear with about 60 watts going to each. They sound good much better than the Kenwoods they replaced but not nearly as good as my Infinity Kappas in my old car. The tweeters can be harsh at loud volumes. Bass could be better.
I'm not super happy with them but not disappointed either.
Running a little amp like this to them will make a big difference in sound. Head unit power will always be lacking.
If you don't mind spending $100 for an amp ... get one like this instead:
https://www.amazon.com/Alpine-KTP-445U-4-channel-Power-Amplifier/dp/B003VVYL46/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1487092657&sr=8-2&keywords=alpine+amp
https://www.amazon.com/Clarion-XC1410-4-Channel-Class-D-Amplifier/dp/B00B43LKV0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487092715&sr=8-1&keywords=clarion+xc1410
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-PBR300X4-4-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B004T163SY
Those are all so small you can mount them behind the dash, which means you can just hook it right into the factory wire harness speaker leads.
Yeah, you got it. I have two RP3's, one running the Plex media server, with an external 512GB SSD, and the other running RasPlex. They are connected together via the LAN cable. I then have an HDMI-to-RCA adapter. I will run the RCAs to the aux input in my Honda Odyssey minivan. That allows me set that as a source for the rear TV. I also have a nice little Lenovo remote control that the kids can use to navigate.
Since the RP3's also have wifi, I am going to setup Rsync to check for new content from my main media PC in the house and download anything new while connected to the wifi (typically when I am loading the kids into the van, takes waaay too long).
The last piece of the puzzle was enabling it to turn on and off with the ignition, but also do a controlled shutdown so as not to corrupt the SD cards.
I'll be taking pics when I get it all together.
Alright then for 6.5 inch coaxials i always recommend the infonitt reference series . For your rear deck its more than likely 6x9's genera rule of thumb is that if your trying o make a round soundwave with a oval your gunna have a bad time so dont blow a crap ton of mony on the rear dec just buy somethi g decent like some pioneer or kenwoods. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B43LKV0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1453076245&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=clarion+4+channel+amp&dpPl=1&dpID=41J9AFkldUL&ref=plSrch i like tbis little guy decent power tiny form factor . http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00MRYHNPM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1453076293&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=pioneer+deh+x6700bt&dpPl=1&dpID=41ksZ8t7eQL&ref=plSrch right here ive always been a fan of pioneer heasunits u get decent bang for your buck. http://www.soundqubed.com/HDS212_p_221.html soundqubed is my favorite brand subs. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00T3VMUTQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1453076405&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=hifonics+brutus+1100+watt+amp&dpPl=1&dpID=31TauDbdOSL&ref=plSrch another bang for your buck product. And for the sub box learn to carpentry
Here's the diagram I made up when I was doing the wiring
http://i.imgur.com/iTDrNh5.png
It wasn't too hard. I basically bought the plug for my car's existing wiring harness and wired the amp to that, used RCA cables to hook the amp (http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B43LKV0) up to the DAC (http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KW2YEI)
On the other side, I got this cable: http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MAJTTYC and cut off the male USB end, which I wired to a step-down (http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BWLP88A) on one side and the 12v switched power on the other side. Then I just plugged in the tablet to the micro USB and the DAC to the female USB.
I don't have any pictures of the piece of wood method, but basically, once I pulled out my old headunit, there was a hole in the dash. I stuck the amp and DAC into the hole and cut a piece of wood big enough to cover the hole with a hole through it for the power wire to pass through for the tablet. The tablet itself is sandwiched between that piece of wood and the plastic bevel of the dash with a bit of foam padding.
I'm not a hardware hacker, and had never done any car audio, and I had no problems figuring it out. (though I did kill my battery a couple tiems because I had the amp hooked up to the regular 12V line instead of the switched line, so it stayed on and drained the battery till I got that sorted)
I didn't bother with FM radio since I never listened to it anyway. I can't say I regret it, though I do wish that somewhere in there, I had an aux line so I could hook up a phone easily, but that's only so my wife could play stuff off of her iPhone.
Night driving is fine, but that might depend on your car. I just use the auto brightness, and I have a solid black background for the tablet, so if it's too bright, I can just minimize the app, though I don't usually have to do that. During the day, it's bright enough to see fine, but that may depend on your car layout.. in mine, there's no glare because the screen is vertical in the center of the dash.
Finally, I also have a blutooth OBD2 reader (http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B006NZTZLQ) hooked up which displays some gauges for stuff like MAF, RPMs, Gas usage, etc.
Well here's the plan.. plan to just have front speakers atm, since I'm told rear aren't necessary with a subwoofer. Plan to get these speakers powered by this powerpack. I drive a 99 camry sedan, but really don't want to have to replace the alternator from all of this.. maybe I should find a less powerful subwoofer or just go with the 500w RMS? All I want is some good clean bass for some electronic toons. Also, was planning on getting a ported box
Ended up using 8ga wire, which is overkill by quite a bit. It's a Clarion XC1410. I plan on splicing my sub amp on to that wire when I put it in though. Haven't decided how I'm going to do my subs.
https://www.amazon.com/Clarion-XC1410-4-Channel-Class-D-Amplifier/dp/B00B43LKV0
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/Astron-RS-12A-Adjustable-11-15V-Output-9A-to-12A-Linear-DC-Surge-Power-Supply-/191861983257?hash=item2cabdd8819:g:wo4AAOSwNRdX5GSs
You could even power two of these Clarion 4ch amps from this one 12-amp power supply. For these Aurasound transudcers, I highly doubt you'd ever drive this amp to even 1/2 of its capabilities under heaviest realistic loads.
Linear (big transformer) PSU > switching PSU when it comes to clean 12v power.