Reddit Reddit reviews EliteKeyboards MechLube 2 Premium Keyboard Lubricant w/PTFE

We found 8 Reddit comments about EliteKeyboards MechLube 2 Premium Keyboard Lubricant w/PTFE. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Industrial & Scientific
Tapes, Adhesives & Sealants
Industrial Lubricants
EliteKeyboards MechLube 2 Premium Keyboard Lubricant w/PTFE
5mL net volume premium PTFE greaseStable consistency over wide temperature range and timePlastic safe - won't melt, stain, or brittle plastic over timeHigh dielectric strength (non-conductive) and low volatility (no fumes!)EASY-TO-USE curved-tip syringe dispenser
Check price on Amazon

8 Reddit comments about EliteKeyboards MechLube 2 Premium Keyboard Lubricant w/PTFE:

u/RandomRedditReader · 2 pointsr/3DS

Aside from giving it a good cleaning, you want a silicone based grease for electronics. I use this.
http://www.amazon.com/EliteKeyboards-MechLube-Premium-Keyboard-Lubricant/dp/B00CZIZBTK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421331672&sr=8-1&keywords=EK+MEchlube

Works great on everything. I use it on my game controllers all the time. You're still going to want to clean it out, eventually over time the grease will pickup hair, skin and dirt particles until it becomes very gunked up and gets worse. But since it's a grease you can localize it to one area and it doesn't drip everywhere. There's also various silicone or PTFE sprays but I don't know how I feel about spraying that stuff all over electronics, eventually you'll get deposits in areas you don't want.

You could also try a drop of Break Free CLP, I don't know how that affects electronics but I don't think it could hurt, might want a second opinion.

u/skiphs · 1 pointr/EliteDangerous

Clears are fantastic. I had originally tried browns, but found that when you started typing quickly the bump became more of a scratchy feeling. Clears seem to fix that issue. The bump has a just a bit more tactility than typing on a nice rubber dome keyboard, but with the nice feel of a mechanical switch.

The two main issues I've noticed are:

  • The reset point appears to be right after the bump, meaning you could in theory reset the switch without actually pulling all the way up. It's not a really big issue, as it only happens if I'm being incredibly lazy about holding a key down.
  • The sprint is actually pretty strong. Holding down a key all the way without o-rings, I would find myself occasionally lifting up a bit before I had the o-rings. (Which leads to the first issue, although it's pretty rare)

    Overall, it's my favorite switch. It's a lot of fun to type on without being overly noisy.

    As for the o-rings, they're about what you might expect. They reduce the travel time just enough where you don't really hit the strongest part of the spring, but at the same time it doesn't really feel like you're distance has been reduced. They do remove a bit of the fun out of typing, but not a lot. One thing I will note: If I end up removing the o-rings, I'll be keeping them on the non-main keys. I tend to slam the shift key, or number keys and this makes that feel a bit better.

    Unrelated to any questions you asked: If you pick up a WASD Code, just keep in mind that the stabilizers tend to rattle a bit on the large keys. You can grab some keyboard lube and completely fix that.

    Here's the lube I bought: Amazon
    And here's the o-rings I bought: Amazon
u/turnturn1225 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards
u/Commander_Spongebob · 1 pointr/techsupportgore
u/braxtonjames · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Hi everyone! I have a few questions about a few different things.

  1. I recently purchased a Salmon on Ice v2 keyboard (Whitefox PCB) as my first dive into custom boards, and though it sounds pleasant when typed with, it requires a huge amount of force to actuate when compared to the standard Brown or Red switch. I currently have an Akko 3068 and Varmilo VB87m (both with Brown switches) and both are so much easier to game/type on for extended periods of time. I wanted to lube the switches to see if that would help, so I bought this lube but I'm honestly terrified about taking the board apart since I spent ~$240 on it. I also tried some O-Rings, but they didn't seem to help much. Any suggestions or advice would be incredibly appreciated.
  2. I am also looking to get my girlfriend a board, and she wants something similar to GMK Samurai or GMK Bento keycaps; basically anything with secondary Japanese characters on the caps. Those probably go for ~150-200 for the set, so something cheaper with similar aesthetics is what I'm looking for. She wants a white casing, so I was going to go with this with some nice keycaps. Any recommendations on a cheaper/similar version of those keycaps, as well as maybe a better (or wireless) 65%/TKL base to use!

    Sorry if it was a wall of text/unclear, but any help would be greatly appreciated :) I can answer any clarifying questions relatively quickly.
u/siinistre123 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Hi, I bought a TADA68 and was thinking of lubing it. I dont wanna spend nuts amounts of money on lube; would this work? https://www.amazon.com/EliteKeyboards-MechLube-Premium-Keyboard-Lubricant/dp/B00CZIZBTK/ref=sr_1_1?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1524789018&sr=1-1&keywords=mechanical+keyboard+lube
For lubing, im just gonna press the key down and lube the insides like that. That's okay, right?

u/jelbert6969 · -1 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Nasstoys Anal Ese Anal Lubricant, Strawberry, 1.5 Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005LE5OUG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_tUO4CbWBKZSCZ

Edit Unm that was for a different person, you want this .

EliteKeyboards MechLube 2 Premium Keyboard Lubricant w/PTFE https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CZIZBTK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lkP4CbQWTKTCC