Reddit reviews ExpertPower 12V 7 Amp EXP1270 Rechargeable Lead Acid Battery

According to this page, you just need a 12V, 7.2Ah battery. Amazon has them for $16.99

This fence line is just shy of 90 feet and my setup works pretty well at that length. I used pretty small diameter pvc so it’s not much weight; I can’t imagine reinforcement would be needed for the watering— maybe for the vines depending. It’s not a raging torrent of water it basically is just a steady drip but it saturates pretty well when run in cycles and not run during the heat of the day.

My initial version of this setup was a single battery and small solar panel and it ran fine for a year or more (granted I’m in SoCal so we get a lot of sun)— I’ve since expanded a bit to a 4 battery setup and larger panel but just because I added two more pumps for covering other areas.

Here’s a picture of the control box of a basic single battery system with timer and a simple solar controller
https://i.imgur.com/JOfGqdp.jpg


Here’s some of the basic gear:

Water Storage
===========================

Current Water tank
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003H9WJMI/

(Although I’ve also used smaller/cheaper tanks like this for my vegetable garden, just might mean more refills depending on how often it’s run: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BFC5NIA/ )

If you’re looking to go super cheap, I honestly started my first setup with a couple modified 5 gallon plastic water bottles I stole from my office like these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003B27RAA/


Power
===========================

Current solar panel for a 4 battery setup:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HFMBF3G

Previous panel for single battery system:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PFGP0EA


Solar regulator (keeps you from blowing up the battery! The smaller panel comes free with one that works fine, I just liked this one better because it had more lights!): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L37KZI6/

Batteries, one is plenty for a single pump system:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003S1RQ2S/

(obviously if you wanted to build a system on the cheap you could bypass the solar entirely and drop $20 on a second battery that you leave charging and just swap them back and forth every week or three, depending on how often/long you run the system)


Pump
===========================

Current Pump:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072BXBQGC/

Although I’ve also used cheaper ones like these for drip systems and they were fine:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07699RMVB

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WYMC492

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DLKT4OO


Misc
===========================

Timer (has like 16 stop/start memories which should be plenty for any configuration):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0090MTLFO


If there is some interest next weekend I could draw up a complete wiring/assembly diagram and detailed parts list and make a separate post (and include all the sundries: wire, hose, clamps, filters, waterproof project box, couplings, drip heads, etc).

That kit does come with a power supply however if you want to run the lights on a battery than I suggest getting a 12 volt battery.

Here is a link to a 12 Volt battery

Link - https://www.amazon.com/ExpertPower-EXP1270-Rechargeable-Lead-Battery/dp/B003S1RQ2S/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2TN1JXSHD9MY9&keywords=12+volt+battery&qid=1550782240&s=gateway&sprefix=12+volt+%2Caps%2C271&sr=8-5

That battery will run each reel for about an hour and half before going flat. If you run both reels at the same time from the battery than you will only get about half that time.

If you are looking rechargeable go with:https://smile.amazon.com/ExpertPower-EXP1270-Rechargeable-Lead-Battery/dp/B003S1RQ2S/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1494114886&sr=1-1&keywords=12v+ups+battery

Else i would use one of these: https://smile.amazon.com/Rayovac-926-General-Purpose-Terminals/dp/B000ROFZFE/ref=sr_1_2_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1494114969&sr=8-2&keywords=lantern%2Bbattery&th=1

The lead acid will run the horn for a couple hours. The lantern battery less.

Depending on your lights, something like this is probably sufficient. Pair that up with one of these and you should be able to run it all night on a single charge (math says up to 16 hours, but I'd stick to 12 to avoid over-taxing the battery).

Stick the battery in a good waterproof box, like /u/NoLA_Owl mentioned. Run a car lighter through the box into the battery (with a fuse - you'll be surrounded by water and shorts are bad). Maybe wire in a switch, if you're so inclined. Apply liberal amounts of Marine Goop/silicone where any wires enter the box and you're good to go.

Tie off the box to your kayak, or to a good long line with a bit of pool noodle at the end. If that box falls overboard for any reason, it's going to sink right to the bottom (the battery is basically a lead brick). The line will let you find it and pull it back up.

12v "deer feeder" (sealed lead acid) battery like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003S1RQ2S/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469028923&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=12v+sealed+battery&dpPl=1&dpID=41UZQatOF%2BL&ref=plSrch

It's what I, and I believe most people, use, often in some kind of waterproof case. The 7Ah has never been drained by my fishfinder, however I'm not sure how long it will power lights. you'll have to do some calculations of the amp draw of the lights too see how big a battery (how many Ah, amp hours) you'll need.

For a fixed installation USB charging solution, I would recommend:

• A 12v solar panel
  
• A solar charge regulator with a load output
  
• A 12v SLA battery
  
• A 12v USB charger
  
  Wiring that up shouldn't be rocket science.
  
  There are, of course, many sizes and brands of each of those things, and I just did a cursory search for examples. You probably want to shop around. The regulator with the load output is important because it will discontinue USB charging before discharging the 12v battery too far.
  
  This will not save you money but will be handy in a prolonged power outage or whatever.

I'm not sure the McHF decodes CW well because humans don't exactly follow a strict schema so I wouldn't really trust it. Might be okay for propagation beacons or computer generated CW. Do you have a CW key? Any 12V battery would work. I'm a fan of 7aH batteries personally because they are cheap and don't need a special charger. The trade off is weight. As for a dipole, roll your own. Mine is made from this, this, this and and this. You can make it multi-band with these and the Linked antenna designer tab on this page. **Edit for major formatting issues.

Assuming this is the battery, which is the most common found in UPSs:

$15 with free shipping on Prime from Amazon

For that size UPS $18 is a great deal.

I've purchased a 35 gal. water tank, a SHURflo 4008-101-E65 pump, and a 12V battery. Now I need a little help making it all work for my mobile setup. I'm mostly confused about powering the pump.

Nice, would this battery work?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003S1RQ2S/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

edit: and this inverter http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019IFYMQU?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_2&smid=A3BVVW711G7EUD

Lowrance 000-12641-001 Hook-4X Sonar W/Mid/Hi/DownScan XDCR

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016QVXTS6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1


ExpertPower 12V 7 Amp EXP1270 Rechargeable Lead Acid Battery
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003S1RQ2S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A bass port is the same as a vented enclosure. the 4.5khz crossover will work. D class amps are industry standard for any sound amplification work. Literally everywhere where power, volume, or price is an issue, people use D class. T class aren't as powerful, and AB aren't efficient enough for battery operation.

As far as a battery, this one has 18ah way more than you need but should allow you to run it for quite some time. Or you could go with the 7ah version it won't last as long but it is smaller, and it is about 1/4 of the weight. Any 12V power supply will work to charge it as long as you put a power switch somewhere between the battery and the amp when you wire it. If you are not comfortable/don't have the tools to splice the power cable correctly, don't do it. Blowing up gear, possibly causing fires, and/or electrical shock is not worth it. It's really easy to do, but if you screw it up, it can be disastrous.

I'm actually intrigued to see how this turns out, on paper it should have an output comparable to that of a commercial loudspeaker in a much smaller package, with the added bonus of being battery powered.

For the same price and an extra .5lb. you get double the battery capacity. If you were to spend more and get a LiOn battery you could save weight and increase capacity.

https://www.amazon.com/POTEK-Inverter-Digital-Display-Charging/dp/B01MQM4EDY/ref=lp_14483937011_1_1?srs=14483937011&ie=UTF8&qid=1493736179&sr=8-1

https://www.amazon.com/ExpertPower-EXP1270-Rechargeable-Lead-Battery/dp/B003S1RQ2S/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1493736251&sr=1-3&keywords=12v+battery

I think I have your answer if you want to spend the money. Get two of these. It's about as loud as a small PA. Great sound and with two of them it would be plenty to rock a little party! Just get 2 1/4 inch to 1/8 inch or 2 RCA to 1/8 inch adapters, whatever your setup is, and plug the left into one speaker and right into the other. The speaker run off a 12volt battery and at full volume it would prob last about 8 solid hours. The cool thing is, you can buy 1 or 2 more batteries for them and pop off the back and switch em out when they get low. Just make sure you charge em at your house before hand. Here is the link for the battery. This is probably the cheapest and most hassle free way to bring speakers that sound awesome that you don't have to power. If your using them 8 hrs a day for 4 days I'd say get 3 extra batteries for each speaker. The only thing I'm wondering is how your powering the mixer and tables?


Edit: oh I'm just seeing that your mixing in the morning haha. Dude you could literally get any small Bluetooth speaker that has an auxiliary and then get an adapter.

These are the two batteries I was looking at so far

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME3ZH7C/ref=as_li_ss_tl?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00&linkCode=sl1&tag=reemedcoa-20&linkId=191c1678d31e4d67fd9a7cc984426bce

https://www.amazon.com/ExpertPower-EXP1270-Rechargeable-Lead-Battery/dp/B003S1RQ2S/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1496774277&sr=8-3&keywords=12v+lead+acid+battery

I'm trying to use the speaker enclosure as my case so the lithium might be a better option due to size.

The batteries are replaceable, and actually pretty inexpensive.

See http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003S1RQ2S

What makes these things so expensive is the high-quality DC/AC converter, intelligent battery conditioner, digital display, and serial communications capabilities. Not to mention the lifetime warranty on anything hooked up to it, against power surges and stuff.

A bit pricey, but you could run this thing for a week of cloudy days no problem.

12V 7 amp Battery $17
50 Watt Solar Panel Starter Kit $135

Just cut off a 2.1mm plug from an existing DC converter, and attach directly to the "load" on the charge controller.

I haven't used this kit, but I have a 50W renogy panel, and a tracer MPPT charge controller and they work great.

You could make something like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UMskp5M8Igw using a cheap car door lock actuator and keyless entry system

http://www.amazon.com/Remote-Central-Locking-Keyless-Controllers/dp/B006QH9C5A
http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Power-Actuator-12-Volt-Motor/dp/B00CZBQCR2/ref=pd_bxgy_e_img_y

You can use a small 12V motorcycle battery as the power source.

http://www.amazon.com/ExpertPower%C2%AE-Rechargeable-Sealed-Battery-BLMFM12_7/dp/B003S1RQ2S/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1415825130&sr=8-2&keywords=12v+battery

And if you feel ambitious you can hook it up to a solar panel recharge so you don't have to charge or swap the battery.
http://www.amazon.com/Instapark%C2%AE-Black-Mono-crystalline-Charge-Controller/dp/B004FOEUI0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1415825203&sr=8-3&keywords=12v+solar+panel

Closest thing I've seen is someone jam a Yaesu FT-817 battery into one.

Don't bother to wait for some mythical KX4 to come out. I learned long ago to just buy what I want now and not play the wait for the Next Big Thing game. There's always new products in development or something new around the corner, the only thing accomplished by waiting is depriving myself of the product I want now. You'll have no problem unloading a KX3 if/when a replacement does come out. Okay.... MAYBE wait for Dayton, since it's just a few days away, for any awesome new product announcements, but other that that, buy the product you want now.

Power options... Your choices are, in order of least to most expensive:

A small 7-10Ah SLA battery. Like the kind you find in consumer UPS's. Not the lightest weight option, but cheap, easy to maintain, and offers reasonable endurance. Still won't allow the full 15W out though as the voltage is too low.

A 13.2v 4S2P hobby LiFePo4 pack is just about perfect. Lightweight, safe battery chemistry, good power density, and near perfect operating voltage. The R/C hobby guys have been figuring out how to squeeze the most performance and lightest weight out of their batteries for a lot longer than the ham radio guys, we just get to benefit from it. Watch out for the 14.8v packs. That's nominal voltage. Starting voltage will be closer to 16v, which puts it over the safety margin of many rigs.

A LiFePo4 pack from Bioenno Power. Options available from a tiny 3Ah pack all the to a car battery sized 300Ah pack for extended off grid operation or running high power equipment. 12V, so no full output from the KX3 still. Something like their 30Ah pack is going to offer an enormous amount of power in something that can easily fit in a pack and weighs about 8lbs. That's pretty impressive.

You could do what I did and get some of these from Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/ExpertPower-EXP1270-Rechargeable-Lead-Battery/dp/B003S1RQ2S/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1467919841&sr=8-4&keywords=12v+7.5ah+battery

Open up your UPS and find out how many of them it takes. A quick search on Google shows that model takes 4. I was able to replace the battery packs in two UPS' for the price of a single APC battery pack.

THD is total harmonic distortion, basically if it's over a certain point it begins to affect the sound quality.

The easiest option for power is a standard lead acid battery, they're a bit heavy and large but are also safe and cheap.

Here's an example.

And because they are standard you could use a small car charger to charge it up like this one.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003S1RQ2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_PtBvxbJ0NC8QA

Check out something like this. If you click on the description it will show you the dimensions. Again, you'd probably want to put it in a dry box so take that into consideration in your choice.