Reddit reviews Klein Tools VDV526-052 Cable Tester, LAN Scout Jr. Network Tester / Continuity Tester for RJ45 Data Cable Twisted Pair Connections

This is the cheapest one I’d recommend

Docooler 4-in-1 Remote RJ11 RJ45 USB BNC LAN Network Phone Cable Tester Meter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQH4XPW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0.zPCb5YJRBKF

Just have to keep good batteries in it otherwise it’ll show everything as fail.


If you have a few bucks more, this is what I’d recommend on the sub $75

Noyafa D3IN0004 NF-308 Network Telephone Audio Cable Length Tester Remote Identifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F5W9GLW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_jfAPCb7MMSJ7F

Past that, then Klein tools are a better deal as they’re are reliable as fuck.

Klein Tools VDV526-052 RJ45 Tester, Continuity Tester, Data Cable Tester, LAN Scout Jr. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004CI9NRM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RgAPCb5P1B8X6

Did you test the cable with a tester? If you mess up even one wire you will be stuck with a 100Mb/s link. I'm assuming the 11.4MB/s is transfer speed to/from the NAS, which checks out because the most the cable would allow is 12.5MB/s and that is before factoring in overhead. I would invest in a basic cable tester if you haven't already, and cut your current connectors and try again.

edit: Sorry, I didn't notice this part of the post at first:

>I'm assuming I did wire everything correctly as otherwise I wouldn't be able to ping my router/transfer data at all, correct?

You would think, but actually 100Base-T (100Mb/s Fast Ethernet) only requires 2 out of the 4 pairs to be connected. 1000Base-T (1000Mb/s Gigabit Ethernet) requires all 4 pairs, and obviously is what you want. So it's possible to mess up but still get an okay connection. Sometimes even if the wire is in the right spot it isn't inserted enough to engage the clips in the connector when you crimp it.

Crimpers: I've had Monoprice's 3-way Modular crimper for over a year now, crimped 200+ ends, and still love it. You'll probably want a jacket stripper to go with it.

Tester: If this is for home-use, and not to "learn" about advanced testers / certifiers, then a simple, cheap, well-rated unit is fine. I've got one of those brandless jobs as a dirt-cheap "backup" (not that I've needed it for that) to the ByteBrothers Real World Certifier (which is a great unit that's significantly cheaper than others that share its feature set). For something in between those two, one of Klein's low-to-mid range models like the LAN Scout Junior might be ok.

Cable: Where are you installing it? Are these just short patch cables, or are we talking long runs through the walls/ceiling? Monoprice has an excellent selection of Cat 6. Short answer: if you want it to flex (short runs, patch cables, frequently moved), buy STRANDED core. For longer runs, in walls / ceiling, that won't move, buy SOLID core. And make sure you get Cat 6 rated modular connectors (the RJ-45 "ends") that match the type of wire core you're using.

I use boots on patch cables; it takes some of the stress off the connector. Not everyone does it though, and it's not absolutely critical if you've got a good solid crimp on your connectors. If you use them, you'll forget to put a boot on at least one. Probably more like every 10th end you crimp, at first.

Get a Patch Panel, a Punch Down tool, a ethernet crimper, some ethernet ends (i prefer the EZ, but they are pricy), and a network tester. All that for $70 and you can terminate and troubleshoot all the cables you desire!

My personal kit is a little more expensive, but really the only thing I wouldn't trade for a cheaper tool is the tester. Crimper, Punchdown, Tester.

If you're already here asking the right questions I'm confident you can get through it.

I was expecting to have to spend a couple of hours getting the AP working the way I wanted, but the whole thing literally took five minutes. It was literally, make a user account and password, assign a vlan, click next a couple of times and that was it. There would be a little more to it if you're setting up a firewall and a switch as well, but it's pretty much as easy as it can be.

You will need something to run the Ubiquiti web interface on. They sell something called a cloud key for this, but you could also use a Raspberry Pi3, since they're cheaper and do the same thing. You could also run the Ubiquiti controller software on any Linux system that you have laying around.

As for the wiring itself, what I did was get a small wall-mounted rack, like this one. Then I ran the cables to a Cat 6 patch panel, like this. From the patch panel, I ran connections to my rackmount router and switches. I've basically only ever followed the bundle of snakes cabling model in the past, so it's satisfying to have everything nice and professional looking.

I used Cable Matters stuff for wall plates and keystone jacks, etc. You'll also need a spool of CAT6 Ethernet cable, and a punchdown tool. I have a 4-way wall plate near my workstation and another 2-way near my printers.

If you do run your own connections you will want to get a cable tester. I did create one bad punchdown and this tester found it no problem. There are lots of other testers out there and I'm sure nearly all would do the job.

Good luck!

For Tone gen, Fluke makes the gold standard. They also have a cheaper version.
You didn't mention a probe, so maybe you are looking for a cable certifier?. That's super expensive though. if you just have to test that there is continuity and not certify the cables, you can use this, or this if you want to look like a pro.

As for Screwdrivers, Wiha makes the best screw drivers, hands down. I have this set for working on electronics & laptop repair. Magnetic tool-kits are fine. This isn't the 80's anymore. There aren't too many magnetically sensitive items inside a computer anymore. especially with the advent of SSD drives.

As for a toolbox, depending the work, I prefer a tool bag or pouch.

Good luck, hope that helps. What helped for me when I started was to go to harbor freight and just get an assortment of tools. As I worked I slowly replaced the stuff I used all the time with quality gear, and didn't have to burn myself buying expensive tools and gear that I would never use.

Glad to be of help, let me know how it works out once you get it installed?




> This may be optimistic thinking, but I am hoping that the Ubiquiti AP will offer strong enough coverage so that I can turn off the WiFi on the Xfinity gateway like you said. The Xfinity gateway is located near their office, which they probably would continue to want WiFi. This was the 'bridge mode' question that I had. If the signal isn't quite strong enough coming from the AP in the warehouse, I may leave the Xfinity gateway running WiFi, or I will simply have them purchase a second AP for the office area.



Personally I would recommend doing a matching Ubiquiti AP for the office area, and disable the Xfinity Wi-Fi. You don't need to enable bridge mode for that; the gateway has options to disable the 2.4 and 5GHz radios. You can either log into it yourself or call Comcast and have them do it from their end. This will ensure handoff between your Ubiquiti AP's works as intended, without having a different access point (the comcast gateway) in the mix.



>From what I've been reading on Amazon, users have installed the Ubiquiti software controller on a Raspberry Pi



I have also heard of people doing this, but I do not have experience doing this myself. I've always done local computer installs, usually on a server, in the cases where I did not have a Ubiquiti cloud key or gateway appliance.



>As stated before, the Ethernet cables are already run throughout from the previous tenants,



Apologies, I must have read over that part. In that case, I would invest in some ethernet cable testers (something like this, those are the ones I have but Amazon has cheaper options available), that way you can test the lines once they are punched down, since they were previously installed lines you never know what kind of problems could come up. Typically that's not the case with ethernet lines but you never know... and it could save you from chasing yourself in circles in the future. These testers will tell you if there is a short/open connection, or a miswire. Very handy. Even though I have punched hundreds of cat5 cable ends down manually, I always check the line with a tester before I plug it into anything.