Reddit Reddit reviews NavePoint Cantilever Server Shelf Vented Shelves Rack Mount 19 Inch 1U Black 10 Inches (250mm) deep

We found 8 Reddit comments about NavePoint Cantilever Server Shelf Vented Shelves Rack Mount 19 Inch 1U Black 10 Inches (250mm) deep. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

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NavePoint Cantilever Server Shelf Vented Shelves Rack Mount 19 Inch 1U Black 10 Inches (250mm) deep
Dimensions: 1.75"H x 17.63"W x 9.81"D44 pound weight capacityFront mount designSlotted ventingLip
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8 Reddit comments about NavePoint Cantilever Server Shelf Vented Shelves Rack Mount 19 Inch 1U Black 10 Inches (250mm) deep:

u/nalybuites · 123 pointsr/cableporn

Here's the composition of the rack:

  • NavePoint 12U Network Rack
  • TP-Link TL-SG1024: 24 port rackmount switch
  • TP-Link TL-SG1016PE: 16 port rackmount power over ethernet switch (needed for the Wi-Fi access points)
  • TP-Link TL-R600VPN: Rackmount router w/ dual-WAN and VPN
  • Rackmount Power w/ surge protection
  • Rack shelf: Used to hold modem and NAS
  • Patch Panel: 24-port Cat6 patch panel (wires go in the pack via punchdown connection, and you run patch cables to the switches)
  • 12" Patch cables: For connecting between the patch panel, swicthes, other on-rack devices
  • Synology 416play NAS: Movies, music, pictures, etc. 32 TB in all.

    Elsewhere in the house/other useful parts:

  • Keystone Cat6 jacks: one per bedroom, 4 in my home office, 4 in the media room (not built yet), 3 in the family room
  • 1-, 2-, 3-, and 4-hole keystone wall plates: Buy the number of holes you want and just pop in the keystone jacks
  • Blank keystone inserts: For when you have too many holes in the keystone plates
  • Ubiquiti AC Pro x 3: Wi-Fi access points, roughly center of the house on each floor (basement, first, second)
  • Punchdown tool: For doing the punchdown connections on the patch panel and on each of the keystone Cat6 plugs in each room
  • Extra rack screws and washers
  • J-Hook: There are two hooks on each wall, holding service loops for the Cat6 and Coax, respectively.

    Useful things I learned:

  • I was originally going to run the wires myself, but never could find the time. Also Cat6 is expensive when not purchased in wholesale quantities (< 10,000 ft). So we hired a local electrician to run the actual wires. It took two of them about 1.5 days to run everything. This was well worth the money, since the project would have taken many months to do in the evenings/on weekends with a toddler running around.
  • I did all the wall terminations. Since they were punchdowns, it was easy and took one evening after work. The electricians would have charged me another half-day of labor.
  • I did all the network rack work. This also took one evening after work.
  • Do NOT buy electrical/networking equipment from a big box hardware store. Always go to a specialized retailer, like an electrician supply store. Their prices will be 1/20th that of the big box store, you won't have to have anything shipped, and their employees actually know what they are talking about. So if you're looking for something that you don't know the name of, you can usually describe it.
  • Newer construction may have fire breaks/blocks/stops which prevent fire and gases from traveling up the inside of the walls. This makes fire move more slowly and give you more time to evacuate. However, it also means you might need to drill holes/patch walls in order to run wires vertically.
  • Put in a service loop. If you ever need to re-terminate for any reason (like replacing a patch panel), it will give you extra cable to work with. Do the same thing inside your walls behind the wall plates, since you might have to do the same thing there as well.
  • Buy networking gear that is rated for the same speed (i.e., gigabit). Your network will only be as fast as the slowest part of it.
  • Watch out for network loops. This is really easy to do and will cause your router to crash or perform suboptimally. I spent >2 hours debugging on of these as a result of connecting my router to itself by way of both switches.
u/Fuzzybunnyofdoom · 2 pointsr/sysadmin

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008LUW49G?psc=1

Anything non-rackable gets put on a shelf. I usually use command strips to secure the item so it doesn't slide around.

u/zezgamer · 1 pointr/PFSENSE

An external logging server will happen a little down the road but not initially. Out of curiosity, did you try a rack shelf like this one?

u/guiltykeyboard · 1 pointr/homelab

NavePoint Cantilever Server Shelf Vented Shelves Rack Mount 19" 1U Black 10" (250mm) deep https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008LUW49G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nXb9BbQ2ZKE7R

I used this one for my modem and small stuff. It’s less expensive and has edges that are rolled up to keep stuff on the shelf. I don’t have any of the larger shelves because all of the big stuff is rail mounted. But the modem is on a small shelf. There are a bunch of different sizes.

One thing to keep in mind when looking at stuff is the specs online for how deep things are does not include the amount of depth that cables like the power cable adds to the back.

Also, if you have dell sliding rails, consider the cable management arm. It’s really nice to have to keep cables organized and keep them from ripping out of the back when you slide the server out.

It has sideways cuts in the bottom for airflow. I used Velcro cable ties to keep stuff in place. I attached multiple cable ties together and down through the shelf holes.

VELCRO Brand ONE WRAP Thin Ties | Strong & Reusable | Perfect for Fastening Wires & Organizing Cords | Black, 8 x 1/2-Inch | 100 Count https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001E1Y5O6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nYb9Bb1E6D6EM

u/JankedOut · 1 pointr/homelab

Heres my suggestion,

I try to make everything rack mountable..

From Modems to Routers and everything else..

I usually get these 1U Shelfs: https://www.amazon.com/NavePoint-Cantilever-Server-Vented-Shelves/dp/B008LUW49G/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1510785591&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=1u+shelf&psc=1

For my ISP modem I glued it onto the shelf (liquid nails) then sawed off a piece of a patch panel with 6 ports and glued it on also. I terminated the patch panel with the other end being RJ45 modules into the modem. So the patch panel connects to the modem. Which allows me to patch in and manage wires through the front of the rack not the back.

Same for wifi/router

Also, where did you get those USB Keystone modules????

u/LeKKeR80 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

First, pop off the wall plate and verify that the ethernet ports are using all 4 pairs of wires and if they follow the A or B pattern.

If those are wired correctly (and they aren't splitting off wire pairs for phone service) then you can either put RJ45 jacks on the wires or put in a networking rack with patch panel or keystone panel and keystones to hold everything together. Add a shelf to the rack to hold your router/modem.

u/A_Real_NSA_Analyst · 1 pointr/homelab

I use these: NavePoint Cantilever Server Shelf Vented Shelves Rack Mount 19 Inch 1U Black 10 Inches (250mm) deep https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008LUW49G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Lg3pDbREW9TV5

u/MudHutMafioso · 1 pointr/audioengineering

Rack-mount interface for $200.00 is going to be hard. Consider a rack shelf.

https://www.amazon.com/NavePoint-Cantilever-Server-Vented-Shelves/dp/B008LUW49G/