Reddit reviews (Pack of 2 Pieces) Chanzon KBPC5010 Bridge Rectifier Diode 50A 1000V KBPC Single Phase, Full Wave 50 Amp 1000 Volt Electronic Silicon Diodes
We found 3 Reddit comments about (Pack of 2 Pieces) Chanzon KBPC5010 Bridge Rectifier Diode 50A 1000V KBPC Single Phase, Full Wave 50 Amp 1000 Volt Electronic Silicon Diodes. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
Part Number: KBPC 5010 / Forward Current : 50 A / Maxixum Repetitive Peak Reverse Voltage : 1000 VLead-Free / RoHS Compliant Electronics Component / Through HoleHigh Forward Surge Current Capability / High Temperature Soldering / Metal CaseSee Picture 2-7 for Specifications DatasheetPack in a ESD Bag with Main Specs Label, for Long Time Protection and Indetification.
Here's a diagram - https://imgur.com/a/oS7iO7I
And here are the parts (doorbell not included):
I will note that the rectifier and capacitor that I have listed are likely grossly oversized, I just used what I had on hand since it was a one off project, and I didn't feel like figuring out the proper specifications for them.
I have the Sonoff flashed with Tasmota. You can set the doorbell button up as a button on GPIO 14 through the configuration menu, then set the PulseTime option to 2 (0.2 seconds) in the console, so that the bell doesn't get stuck on if someone holds the doorbell button down.
https://www.amazon.com/Pieces-Chanzon-KBPC5010-Rectifier-Electronic/dp/B079KDL8Y5/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=50a+bridge+rectifier&qid=1558967574&s=gateway&sr=8-3
Appropriate rectifiers are cheap and commonly available. You don't NEED a capacitor to make a rectifier work, either, and for this particular application, it wouldn't make any sense to use one.
Getting back to the parent question - a rectifier would work just fine, and only add a few dollars to the cost of the showerhead. I suspect a rectifier WOULD make such a showerhead somewhat safer, too.
Wow thank you so much, this was very helpful. :)
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If i am understanding you correctly, this is the new diagram (https://imgur.com/a/Y6XohGa).
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One question I had was can I use the existing red and black lines to power both the original unit and the buck converter/bridge rectifier/wifi relay? Would i just cut off some of the plastic coatings of the black and red wires somewhere in the middle and wrap the other wires around the two?
My thinking is that this would effectively make two "ends" for the wires that i can use to power the existing circuit board and the buck converter/bridge rectifier/wifi relay.