Reddit reviews PowerJive USB Voltage/Amps Power Meter Tester Multimeter, Test speed of chargers, cables, capacity of power banks
We found 14 Reddit comments about PowerJive USB Voltage/Amps Power Meter Tester Multimeter, Test speed of chargers, cables, capacity of power banks. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
Displays Current (Amps), voltage and capacity (19,999 mah)Perfect for testing how fast a USB cable or USB power adapter charger is actually charging atCan handle charging speeds up to 3.5A (3,500 ma) and 3v-7vStore charging data in memory. Flashes to alert of low or high voltage issuesTest using a USB charger, battery power bank or Micro USB Cable. Test your iPhone or Android phone
Measure what? The input voltage and current that go inside the Pi? Or the output voltage and current that goes into the GPIO pins?
Normal computers don't constantly log these values because they don't need them. Basically they only measure the extremes. If the voltage is too low or too high they shut down.
But you can measure any value externally, using multimeters, oscilloscopes, and other devices. There are some USB power supplies that measure the voltage and current that flows through them, and in this way the user can know how much current the Pi is consuming.
https://www.amazon.com/PowerJive-Voltage-Multimeter-chargers-capacity/dp/B013FANC9W
http://raspi.tv/2016/raspberry-pi-zero-1-3-power-usage-with-camera
Three weeks in a stationary site is starting to get close to where a panel makes sense. Without a record of how many times you charged what, we wouldn't be able to figure out how many Wh you actually used. Though some USB power meters like this one also log cumulative Ah which is a good estimate. I like to use one of those all the time (solar, battery or mains) but I'm a little bit of a data analysis freak.
edit: Though an iphone is like 7Wh, a GPS watch might be 0.2Wh, Kindle is 3.3Wh, Tube is 0.37Wh and Sony A7II is like 3.7Wh.
Assuming the kindle was charged once, the phone every week, the watch and tube every day, and the camera twice a week that is a total of 37.5 Wh. Well under the capacity of 7x18650.
Might just be a bad battery tbh, batteries are notoriously bad in this industry. Try with another? Also, go buy a usb power meter from amazon so you can actually watch the current flow into the device.
https://www.amazon.com/PowerJive-Voltage-Multimeter-chargers-capacity/dp/B013FANC9W
Also I would recommend buying a standalone iphone batter charger board. This will charge the battery independently of a phone and let you watch the input current along with the current voltage of the battery.
I'd be surprised if it could supply over 1amp. Buy one of these and see for yourself what kind of capability various USB ports have: http://www.amazon.com/PowerJive-Voltage-Multimeter-chargers-capacity/dp/B013FANC9W/ref=sr_1_2?s=wireless&ie=UTF8&qid=1451375081&sr=1-2&keywords=usb+doctor
Not the exact same, but I own this which does the exact same thing. With prime if that's your shnick
Given how popular pod mods have become one of these will be useful.
I've seen a few YouTube reviewers using this device
you mean something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/PowerJive-Voltage-Multimeter-chargers-capacity/dp/B013FANC9W/ref=pd_bxgy_147_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B013FANC9W&pd_rd_r=46N9Y1XVDQ4J8JE824VR&pd_rd_w=xjxTX&pd_rd_wg=QUqpj&psc=1&refRID=46N9Y1XVDQ4J8JE824VR
what about the load resistor, where can I find it?
I do want to emphasize that I have no experience with that one specifically at all, it's just the first thing that popped up when I tried to find something like the one I have. Let me see if I can find the one I have.....
Edit:
PowerJive USB Voltage/Amps Power Meter Tester Multimeter, Test speed of chargers, cables, capacity of power banks https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013FANC9W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_368azbWXG4GC0
My sister got me this one for Christmas and I haven't had any trouble with it. Seems accurate. Voltage matches the multimeter and the current matches what my phone reports when charging. The current measurement has two decimal places, so it should be within +/-5mA
> but I'd ideally like to do whatever that guy in the video did, because whatever he did it works.
He probably had the parts on hand. To replicate what he did, you'll need 4 C-sized NiMH batteries at $18 plus a charger for $20.
It's difficult to estimate your power requirements because on top of the Pi/modem/i2c sensor, you'll have high-power IR leds, a camera, etc.
I recommend you build a prototype first, running from DC power, then get something like this USB meter, and let the prototype run for 12 hours or so at night. That will tell you the power usage, and in turn what kind of batteries or battery packs you need.
The Switch will only charge the Joycons if it is at a high enough battery percentage and/or is drawing enough power from the charger/dock. I recommend buying a meter that will check the power draw on the Switch. If it's not drawing normal charge speeds, that might be the cause. If it's normal, then it's a lot harder to say.
Just for clarification, you tried different Joycons to confirm that it's a flaw with the Switch, not the Joycons, correct?
>Current will flow from the battery to power the device when it is on.
>
This I understand. Would the current be dropping because the device doesn't have the battery life to keep itself on to charge?
>Not totally sure, but it sounds like your multimeter has some function to measure how much energy has been put into the battery during charging? So if you measure this from a fully discharged battery to a full charge, it would give you the energy capacity of the battery.
>
It's one of these if you have any experience with them.
So as I thought, it's only measuring what should be going in. The only way to measure what's actually in the battery would be to use it to charge something else until it dies?
>I guess this might depend on what defines a "dead" battery. Its possible your battery can still hold some sort of a charge, but can no longer provide the voltage required to power your device.
>
>One thing you could do to determine if the issue is the battery or the device is to disconnect the battery. Then get a DC power supply to provide the nominal voltage of the battery to the device directly.
That is a good idea but I am not sure how to do that without a lot of temporary wiring. I believe at some point the ios was corrupted (or lost) and is causing the startup loop. A computer doesn't generate enough voltage to charge the iPad and the charging and connection port are shared. I guess I'll find out replacing the battery. Though I'm 99% certain that's the problem I'm more so interested in learning how to interpret what I'm seeing.
Thank you for all your help!
IMPRESSIVE!
We need to go deeper! But seriously, well done! so for a USB killawatt you could always use something like this. Do you have any plans to enclose it in some kind of a case?
Maybe get this?