Reddit reviews Tonor TM RJ45 RJ11 RJ12 CAT5 CAT 6 UTP Network Lan Cable Tester Test Tool
We found 27 Reddit comments about Tonor TM RJ45 RJ11 RJ12 CAT5 CAT 6 UTP Network Lan Cable Tester Test Tool. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
Keep your network running smoothly by testing your cables to uncover problematic shorts, openUse for testing your homemade Ethernet patch cables to make sure they are in working order prior toTests RJ45 cables, RJ11 telephone cables and network cablesEasy to read LED display indicates problems.Hand-held for portability.Requires one 9-volt battery (not included)
You can pick up a spool of Cat5e or Cat6 at Lowe's along with the RJ-45 crimping tool and a jar of RJ-45 connectors. I highly suggest also getting a cable stripper while you're at it. Your total outlay will be around $20-$25 for the tools, and about $55 for a spool of cable plus the jar of RJ-45 connectors.
After that, the important things to know:
Don't cut the insulation on the individual wires inside the cable. Don't try to strip the individual wires, don't nick them when you cut the jacket, DON'T don't don't! :) The crimping tool will squeeze them down hard onto sharp blades on the inside of the RJ-45 terminators to make the connection right through the insulation.
If you get a stripping tool - only rotate it ONCE, lightly, around the jacket of the cable. It should require some resistance to pull the cut bit loose. Strip a good six inches or so off the end of the cable - you'll want some extra length in the exposed pairs to arrange them properly.
Untwist the exposed pairs down to the jacket. Straighten them out completely. Now arrange them in the proper pinout: orange-white, orange, white-green, blue, white-blue, green, white-brown, brown. This is "T-568B" layout, and it's IMPORTANT. You might think you can wire it up any old way you want, as long as it's the same on both ends, and have it work - if you think that, you're WRONG WRONG WRONG. The order is important because the structure of the cable prevents crosstalk on pairs, and if you split the pairs up, you will have RF crosstalk and it will completely suck so don't do that.
That T-568B layout up there? It goes in with the locking tab on the RJ-45 connector facing DOWN, repeat, DOWN. Left-to-right, locking tab facing DOWN, orange-white orange white-green blue white-blue green white-brown brown. Learn it, live it, love it.
Consider a cheap cable tester to add to your arsenal. You may have trouble sourcing this at a Lowe's or Home Depot - frequently they either have no testers at all, or only have "pro" testers that cost hundreds of bucks. For your purposes, something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Tonor-RJ45-Network-Cable-Tester/dp/B00OUFX38W/ref=zg_bs_tab_pd_mw_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=TJ654JVCX7SM9J4YE3GJ at $9 is fine, and can save you a lot of hassle.
Before you feed your nicely untwisted and properly laid out pairs into your RJ-45 terminator, snip them off cleanly about 1/2" from the jacket. Slide them all the way, carefully so they don't cross over on you but FIRMLY onto the exposed pairs, and so that the bottom of the RJ-45 slides OVER the jacket on the cable itself. When you crimp it down - hard, like you're shaking your girlfriend's dick-bag ex's hand - the little bar on the inside of the RJ-45 should clamp, firmly, ONTO THE JACKET, not just onto the pairs.
If you possibly, possibly, CAN remove the crimped RJ-45 from the cable by pulling on it... you did it wrong. Cut it off, re-strip, re-arrange, do it again. A properly crimped RJ-45 connector can hold your weight off the ground. Yes, seriously. THIS IS IMPORTANT, don't fuck this up.
I think that pretty much covers it. Oh, and you can pick up surface-mount raceway to run cable through while you're at Lowe's, if you want. It's square rubbery stuff that comes in 6' lengths (typically) and has sticky stuff on the back if you peel the paper off, so it'll stick directly to a wall, ceiling, etc. Stuff like this: https://www.amazon.com/Medium-Latching-Cable-Raceway-500/dp/B002DO164K/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1486775258&sr=1-3&keywords=raceway+cable
None of the below links are affilliate.
If you're getting into more network layer stuff, you'll want a cable toner, RJ-45 Ends, Cat 5 or 6 Cable, RJ-45 Crimper as well.
You can go cheap on the opening tools without being penalized.
Laptops and the like aren't cars - they don't require tons of force but you DO need the right bits and/or shims to get them open without stripping heads or damaging plastics.
Something similar to this which has a bunch of bits, magnetized pickup, and "guitar" style plastic pry tools should do fine.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073ZWY386/ref=twister_B07FMWPBKN
A portable multimeter is always useful, I like the ones that fold in on themselves so you can throw them in a bag.
https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Multimeter-Ranging-Pocket-Tester/dp/B06Y4RZY45
Get some Cat5e clips, put them in a ziploc, and throw them in your bag along with a crimping tool, needle nose pliers, and wire stripper. You will be surprised how often you need to re-crimp a cable or make a new one on-site.
Note - if you don't know how to make a cable, definitely practice that first!
Get an ethernet/phone continuity tester. You don't need a Fluke CableIQ (they're nice though!) but a basic continuity tester will let you (laboriously) trace any ethernet jacks that need tracing. And you can test those cables you just made or just fixed.
I have one basically identical to this and I've used it for over 10 years now I think. Money well spent.
https://www.amazon.com/Tonor-RJ45-Network-Cable-Tester/dp/B00OUFX38W
As mentioned before, something to read a drive(s).
Any multi sd-card reader will do but instead of a dock you may want something like this since it is more portable. Yet another thing I've had for over 5 years and used countless times.
https://www.amazon.com/AGPtek-Drive-Adapter-Converter-External/dp/B00BIE996S
You probably should punch down those ends on a "better" patch panel like this:
https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Unshielded-Wallmount-Rackmount-TC-P24C5E/dp/B00008AWL3/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1466713111&sr=1-3&keywords=patch+panel
It doesn't have to be the exact one, it's just for reference. Keep in mind to keep interference down that can mess with your transfer rates that you will want to keep the amount of wiring that is untwisted to a minimum. Once you are punched down you can get a ton and probe kit, relatively cheap to check that you punched down the wire correctly and that it is terminated correctly on the other end as well, presumably in a keystone jack for a wall. This will also allow you to find which wires go where in your house. Also, you will have to determine which standard for wiring was used, T568A or T568B. You can check this before punching anything down by taking a wall plate out and investigating how the cat5e was terminate at the wall plates.
You can get a cheap line tester like this that will do the job fine.
https://www.amazon.com/Tonor-RJ45-Network-Cable-Tester/dp/B00OUFX38W/ref=sr_1_18?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1466713437&sr=1-18&keywords=tone+and+probe
I've actually used this exact one at home when I've left my commercial fluke equipment at work. It feels cheap, but it does the job. Good luck, once it's done and done correctly it's very nice to have a wired home with the ability to add wireless access points throughout your home.
> Any ideas on what I could be missing?
There is something inside the wall or somewhere it's connected to that you are missing. The best thing to do would be buy a cheap cable tester like THIS and after you wired to B standards then test it, it will tell you what is broken or even if there is connectivity at all.
For value you can't beat something like this. I have used a similar one from L-com for years and have not had any issues for the ~100 home runs I have done.
Anything that will qualify the cable as cat6 is probably $1,000+.
If you are running CAT cable around the house, you will probably want to run all the cable to a common point where they can connect to your patch panel, switch(es), servers/NAS and routers. Most people locate this place out of the way in a basement, to hide the clutter.
If you are running CAT cable you should really use CAT6A which is certified for 10G speed. CAT6 is not a standard. CAT6A is. I used shielded CAT6A. You should buy a spool of solid CAT6A wire that you can cut to specific lengths.One end gets wired to a keystone jack that is usually mounted in the wall of where you need to connect something. The other end is wired to the patch panel. The patch panel has normal jacks that you would use with regular premade patch cables to connect to switches which then connect to the server/NAS/router, etc.
Examples and tools needed:
CAT6A structure cable: https://www.firefold.com/064-series-cat6a-shielded-cable
Patch Panel: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AQL46TY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Small Rack to hold patch panel and switches (servers would need bigger rack):https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VDPBXM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
keystone jacks: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CLVAJCK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Wall plate mounting bracket: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003JQL0S8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Keytone wall plate cover: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0072JVUPG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Tools:
Punch down tool:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AZK4D/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
LAN Cable tester: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OUFX38W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Correct me if I'm wrong, but you have your modem in another room, where you get 110 Mbps, and then you have a wired connection to your room where you only get 42Mbps?
Well, to answer your question in the edit, no degradation is supposed to happen over 100 ft of cable. Maybe it's wired wrong, I would get a cheap cable tester to make sure there aren't any crossed wires.
I've been using this one for months with no issues. It's cheap and easy to use.
It's possible not all 8 of the wires are making proper contact.
Networks try and be resilient: if there's a blockade, try and route around it, if there's a network cable problem, try and use what you do have left.
Cat 5e has 8 wires. To get full 1000mbit/s speeds, you need all 8 of those intact and working to spec. If you're missing one or several, the speed will fall down to 100mbit/s or slower.
A simple cable tester like this only costs a few bucks and is absolutely vital when running your own network cable.
More than once, I've dealt with contractors (I'm a sysadmin) who check to make sure that a network drop is working simply by plugging a laptop into one end and a switch (which is usually already present) on the other, and see if it connects. More than once, I've given them a simple cable tester like that, after showing them that the local network only supported 100mbit/s (instead of 1000mbit/s) because e.g. only 7 of the 8 wires were making proper contact.
Alternatively, it's possible that the "bridged router" (whatever the fuck that is) has issues. Why not just get a simple gigabit switch (like this) if you want to connect the cables?
By the way, if you're worried about the cable being too long (100m is the absolute hard limit, according to the spec), just put a simple switch halfway, that'll reset that limit, in this case giving you e.g. a 40m cable and a 60m cable, either of which are fine.
If there are no problems with your cables, you should have zero packet loss. If you're staying within spec (no cables longer than 100m) and your cable isn't broken anyway and the plugs are connected properly, you should have zero packet loss. Especially when staying on your own network (e.g. pinging the router or another (wired) computer in the same house.
If you aren't even getting Blinkenlights on multiple devices, the cable is either unplugged at the router end, or dead. If you want to be 100% sure, you can grab a cheap RJ45 Cable tester off amazon for $10. Ethernet cables, especially long runs that are getting moved around and aren't properly sent through the walls, do go bad from time to time.
Yeah, I can see what you are trying to do now a bit better. That would work and the connector you found will do the trick. I think it is a great idea. As long as you know that the cables are put together with that junction box and when it comes time to do anything that might disturb them be careful, there's nothing wrong with using them. I might even try to find a place in the attic to screw them down, keep it up out of the insulation and out of the way of storage. When running the cable to the office, give yourself about 5 to 10 ft of slack so you can move the junctions if you need to in the future.
The only concern I would have is the cable the contractor is running, is it spliced anywhere? If it is intended for phones, is it terminated and daisy chained (no problem for phones but bad for data but would probably still work just cause problems every now and again) anywhere?
There are some very cheap cable testers on the internet ($5) , I would get one and see what I was working with. Those testers will let you know if there is a break in any of the 8 wires inside a ethernet cable. Plus you can rule out the cable if something isn't working.
Edit: cheap cable tester
Get a cable tester, and find out where the issue is. I have this one
It is either the switch, the line to the patch panel (if you have one), the line in the wall between the switch or patch panel to the office outlet, the line from the outlet to the PC, or the PC itself. Rule them out one by one. Once you find where the issue is, you can try to figure out what the the issue is (bad cable, loose connections, improper termination etc.)
You might want to get one of these then: https://www.amazon.com/Tonor-RJ45-Network-Cable-Tester/dp/B00OUFX38W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474654003&sr=8-1&keywords=ethernet+tester
It's cheap and it will tell you if the pins are still connected. Hopefully if it's broken, it's at one of the terminations and not somewhere in the wall.
RJ45 tester
wall plate mounting bracket
keystone wall plate
keystone f/f jack
CAT6 ends
The setup from your diagram should work.
Edit: the wall plate has various options for the number of jacks.
Using one of these.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OUFX38W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Check your wiring with something like... http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00OUFX38W/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1462143785&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=cat+5+cable+tester
I'm pretty sure that's how VOIP works.
Okay but seriously, you can technically daisy chain phone lines, so one of those lines is providing service to another phone jack. It sounds like your guess is probably correct. If you don't need service in the basement then disconnect it. Im not sure if it's worth it to you, but one of these would be useful: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00OUFX38W/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469014796&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=cable+tester&dpPl=1&dpID=51Bu0GxKXML&ref=plSrch
For Tone gen, Fluke makes the gold standard. They also have a cheaper version.
You didn't mention a probe, so maybe you are looking for a cable certifier?. That's super expensive though. if you just have to test that there is continuity and not certify the cables, you can use this, or this if you want to look like a pro.
As for Screwdrivers, Wiha makes the best screw drivers, hands down. I have this set for working on electronics & laptop repair. Magnetic tool-kits are fine. This isn't the 80's anymore. There aren't too many magnetically sensitive items inside a computer anymore. especially with the advent of SSD drives.
As for a toolbox, depending the work, I prefer a tool bag or pouch.
Good luck, hope that helps. What helped for me when I started was to go to harbor freight and just get an assortment of tools. As I worked I slowly replaced the stuff I used all the time with quality gear, and didn't have to burn myself buying expensive tools and gear that I would never use.
Use a toner/cable-tester to see how the wires are connected from the room to the patch panel. Something really cheap like this will work.
If the lines are terminated you can use one of these.
The tester also shows if a signal is weak. Every LED light up brightly.
The tester is this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Tonor-RJ45-Network-Cable-Tester/dp/B00OUFX38W
Could always pick up a cheap line tester from amazon.
get yourself a cheap cable tester, something like this.
http://www.amazon.com/Tonor-RJ45-Network-Cable-Tester/dp/B00OUFX38W/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1462121743&sr=8-2&keywords=cat5+cable+tester
Check that all 8 wires are connected correctly.
The advantage of using Ubiquiti stuff is the amount of info available: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=ubiquiti+nanostation+ptp
PtP means Point-to-point, which is the kind of link you want to do. You will need some outdoor ethernet cable and a crimp tool + connectors. A simple cable tester would be useful too to make sure the cable is OK.
Also, Ubiquiti uses passive PoE. Plug your injector correctly or it will fry your computer's network card!
Don't hesitate to contact me if you have any more questions!
$9 and it works.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OUFX38W/ref=psdc_7701919011_t1_B0000AZK08