Reddit reviews UGREEN RJ45 Coupler Cat7 Cat6 Cat5e Ethernet Cable Extender Adapter LAN Connector in Line Coupler Female to Female (Black)

To questions 1 + 2:Nothing fancy. In cases where the category cable ends are already terminated with RJ45 connectors, something like this will work just fine, and where it's not already terminated, you can add your own connector and use the above coupler, or something like this. (Note: I haven't used these specific models, but they're all effectively the same thing)

The ISP's comment about running new cable and the quality not being good is a CYA move. The wire already in the wall might be damaged, in which case you'll know pretty quickly. An extra coupler will have negligible effect on normal home internet use.

If you're really worried, you can throw switches in instead of couplers, but they don't change the situation other than give you more ports at each junction.

#3: not a problem. Because it's behind the router (embedded in the modem), everything connected downstream (in your house) gets it's own local address, can talk within your network and out to the internet just fine. If the modem isn't also a router, then you'd have problems, but you'd already know.

#4: they make much fancier ones, but this gets decent enough reviews from what I can tell (again, haven't used this specific one). Plug it in on both ends, you'll know in seconds if the cable is good or not. If yes, you're in business and a coupler is all you need. If no, that's where the fancier ones come in and can tell you where along the wire the damage is and you could potentially splice and repair.

#5: leave as much slack as you can so you have cable left if you screw up or want to make changes later. Otherwise, don't worry, it's low voltage wire, only way to hurt yourself is to stab yourself with the copper wire ends.

CMR is referred to as Riser cable, it's specifically designed to go between floors in large buildings, has some fire suppressant properties but not much more (main focus is to stop fires from spreading between floors in riser spaces - there's more to it but I'll be brief).

Riser cable is typically solid, since it's purpose is to be installed to go between floors, then jacked on either end, with common grade stranded cable to run to a switch or some equipment; therefore the riser cable is tied down between the floors, and doesn't move a lot, so it doesn't need the mobility of stranded cabling. Stranded can be bent and flexed much more before breaking the end-to-end connection. Unfortunately because of the solid cable, it's not going to be very resistant to being broken, and it's likely you sheered a full connection off. There are 8 in the cable, so 1 of 8 being non-functional, you might lose gigabit capaiblity, the ability to send, or the ability to receive, depending on which specific wire inside the cable is broken. IMO, from the symptom of having a connection but no internet, would mean your tx wires are severed, or compromised. your PC cannot successfully send a request to the rest of the network, so the network does not know to reply; on the same token, your PC is getting a carrier from the RX lines (from the network to your PC), so it "sees" the connection is there.

The only way to be sure is to test the cable and verify, if you don't have a tester, you can maybe use a multi-meter, but it gets tricky if you don't have a helper (unless you can bring the two ends together).

So you have two options:

1. Re-run the entire cable. It's cleaner, neater, provides the highest quality connection and longevity of the link without issues. I would probably go this route if you have the cable, then use the length for two smaller runs, if possible.
   
   
2. patch it together. you have essentially two options for this: if you're a good cabler, and you have the smallest amount of slack, you can get a junction box, and punch down the two sides. along the same lines, if you're not great at punchdowns, you can crimp the two ends and use a coupler. same idea. Your other option is to get two jacks (keystone or otherwise), punch down both sides, which will shorten each cable slightly, then use a very small patch cable to bridge the two connections; this is the only option if there's no slack and you're intent on repairing rather than replacing.
   
   Links for the weary:
   
   Junction: https://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-CAT5E-Junction-listed/dp/B0059DRC3G
   
   Coupler: https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Coupler-Ethernet-Extender-Adapter/dp/B016B13U9Y
   
   Jacks: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-10-Pack-Punch-Down-Keystone/dp/B00IO3HEN6
   
   Ends: https://www.amazon.com/Cybertech-Cat5e-RJ-45-Ethernet-Connectors/dp/B00LG6DQUI
   
   those are just to get you started, there's lots of manufacturers that follow the specifications (TIA/EIA 568/569), so by no means do you have to buy what I've linked; I just want you to have an idea of what you're looking for. I don't necessarily endorse one brand or manufacturer over another for this, I actually don't know any of the brands I linked, so buyer beware, as usual.
   
   Side note: Riser should not be used for Plenum space (anything relating to HVAC); doing so can create toxic smoke that's vented throughout the building in the event of a fire. It also violates fire code, so please be careful where you use Riser cable. in wall, along baseboards, etc, is fine. Anything to do with HAVC, dropped ceilings, through vents... needs to be plenum grade.

https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Coupler-Ethernet-Extender-Adapter/dp/B016B13U9Y

Our house is 3k square feet and 3 pucks just seems to cover enough to where we can get full speed pretty much everywhere, for 6k you'll need at least 4. Our stone patio interferes on the one going from basement ceiling to outdoors on the patio but still pulls 100-200mbps

I remember with our ac66u we never even used the 5ghz it was so bad compared to the 2.4ghz lmao

https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Coupler-Ethernet-Extender-Adapter/dp/B016B13U9Y/

https://www.monoprice.com/Category?c_id=105&cp_id=10232

As the other commenters said, that cable is all manner of messed up and should never have been bought into existence.

Keep in mind it seems to have been made specially for whatever unholy wiring creation exists on the other side of that wall jack and could have consequences including but not limited to equipment damage and ungodly hell fire if you plug it in somewhere else.

That being said if you want to just add extra length without messing with it, just add one of these and a cable of the desired length: Ethernet Female to Female Adapter

thank you for the list

I am still researching DORI and differences between cameras, but from what I gathered so far here is what I need:

• blue iris $70 (with a phone app)
  
• pc (since it only supports windows) likely i7-6700 something like this
  
• PoE switch: something like this
  
• router, I have an old lynksys with dd-wrt which should do it
  
• several very long ethernet cables with some couplers
  
• most likely also a UPS
  
• ONVIF, PoE cameras
  
  the last bit I am still looking at. I am not ready to spend several hundred dollars per camera (one of your examples is Dahua 2MP Starlight which seems to be super expensive). While I understand it might be much better than the rest, I'd like to see if I can be in a $50 to $100 dollar range per camera. Is there any such cameras you can recommend?
  
  I can see some (ONVIF, PoE): Hikvision 4MP, ONWOTE 5MP, ONWOTE, 4X Optical Zoom Autofocus, Amcrest ProHD, GW Security 5, JideTech PTZ, etc. but I am not sure how to gauge the quality.

This is the one I got - looks like it'll work: http://www.amazon.com/Ugreen-Thunder-Protection-Network-Coupler/dp/B016B13U9Y

Thanks for the help. Will try out the router tonight and update here.

All the cat5 cables ive seen have 4 pairs; blue, brown, green and orange/red and a striped counterpart. In the image posted it looks like the colors are still there, they just went with different patterns and shades.

So im seeing the orange one come out of the wall, and it LOOKS like its going into the third block from the left, but i notice its actually connected to the second from the left, so its matched with the solid orange. The fourth from the left appears to be the solid greens, as i can also see the third block contains the striped greens (as well as some of the leftover from the wall cable). And of course the far right block houses the orange striped wires. So it looks like someone was bridging the orange and green pairs, but the green striped line is broken or cut on purpose.

So like i said before if it was coming from the phone line we would only need 2 to get data to the modem, but as this is coming from a router, itll need most, if not all, of the 8 wires connected. There is a guide to wiring all this up and it goes by color of the wires, but thats just a guide and may not always be the case in how it was actually wired up.

This is how a standard ethernet cable is hooked up

Also cat 5e is just a cat5 cable that can handle more data and is better shielded so thats a non issue.

So long story short, its looks like all of them need to be hooked back up. All the suggestion in my first post should still be valid and if i were doing it i would probably run a whole new cat5 cable from the router to the pc. Failing being able to do that, i would trim up the cables in your pic, crimp new heads on following the diagram color chart, and patch them together with a female-to-female rj45 patch socket. Failing ability to do that, i would solder each wire to the other and shrink tube the joint. And lastly i would resort to twisting them together with electrical tape, or using a wire block like in your pic to join them and throw the whole thing in an enclosure like a plastic bag or something lol. Basically anything to get those wires touching and not falling apart will net some degree of success.

You'll need:

Edge trimmers

Cat5 head crimper

F2F rj45 coupler

Cat5 heads

Something similar to this 8 wire bus bar will work, but smaller would be better

And thats about it, depending on how you decide to go about the repair. Also no problem at all. shoot me another message if anything else pops up and ill help however i can.